passive plant killer

[delta9nxs]

Outdoor PPK running 100% organic topdress on 12v solar.

Orgasmic hippy freakshow!

That PDF file is the bomb. I am gonna be onto an indoor setup this winter!

hey, hows it going on the south side? please get us some pics! i've thought about how to do one of these set ups outside.

someday i want to try really large plants under the big light.

good to hear from you!

later, d9

 

[delta9nxs]

Well the makita vs milwaukee didnt happed. My bro was there hours before me so he got most of it done.
The 3.5 gallon buckets are nearly the same size as the 5 gallon, I understand why you (D9) were telling me that the 3.5 could produce just as much as the 5. The fives were a bit cheaper than the 3.5s, I may end up cutting them down to size.

We went through two 27 gallon tough boxes trying to make the black box. The plastic craked when we were trying to pull the tire valves through. We were even using a 1/2" drill with lube. in the second attempt you can see that we spaced them out further..we were close, the plastic cracked on valve 7/8...

If at first you dont succeed, try, try, again.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=35933&pictureid=852802&thumb=1]View Image[/url]
View Image View Image

you must be related to a guy named tom sawyer.

i like that unistrut and cable idea. are you using 1/4" cable? that seems like it would be plenty strong.

i don't have much trouble at all with the tire valves. i have split a bucket or two but that's about it.

the container volume thing is interesting. some of the research papers i've read suggest that the plant senses a lateral peripheral boundary in the root zone defined by objects or other plants roots. especially in the top 8", which is where you will find 50% of the cannabis plant's root mass in nature.

this seems to affect the overall development of the aerial part of the plant.

in traditional containers typically the designs try to minimize the perched water table by the easiest method, which is to make the container taller than it is wide. the pwt will occupy the same height in all containers using the same medium, regardless of the container volume or shape.

but in a container that deals with the pwt you can use a wider, flatter container shape.

if you wanted 5 gals of medium then the container should be 8" high and 14" in diameter. a standard 5 gal bucket is approx 10.5" averaged inside diameter and 14" tall.

the wider, flatter container will have a greater overall root mass.

when i de-potted plants in 5 gal containers i would see a very thick layer of roots in the top 4" and a very thick layer in the bottom 4" but the roots would kind of thin out in between.

when i went to the 3.5 gal buckets i got the same development without the thinning in between which leads me to believe that the proximity to an air source has a lot to do with this. in the 3.5's with my hole pattern no part of the medium is further than 5" from an air source.

you could drill out the entire bucket to eliminate this "blank area" but in this device that would dampen the plunger effect.

in the 3.5 gal buckets i'm currently using 2.5 gals of medium which fills the bucket to the 7" point. this is just about the limit of capillary rise for the turface/ rice hull medium.

 

[delta9nxs]

could you ppk growers living in medical states pm me when you get a chance, i'm at a decision making point. i live in a cultural shithole without compassion. i need room to move.

 

[high life 45]

you must be related to a guy named tom sawyer.

i like that unistrut and cable idea. are you using 1/4" cable? that seems like it would be plenty strong.

i don't have much trouble at all with the tire valves. i have split a bucket or two but that's about it.

the container volume thing is interesting. some of the research papers i've read suggest that the plant senses a lateral peripheral boundary in the root zone defined by objects or other plants roots. especially in the top 8", which is where you will find 50% of the cannabis plant's root mass in nature.

this seems to affect the overall development of the aerial part of the plant.

in traditional containers typically the designs try to minimize the perched water table by the easiest method, which is to make the container taller than it is wide. the pwt will occupy the same height in all containers using the same medium, regardless of the container volume or shape.

but in a container that deals with the pwt you can use a wider, flatter container shape.

if you wanted 5 gals of medium then the container should be 8" high and 14" in diameter. a standard 5 gal bucket is approx 10.5" averaged inside diameter and 14" tall.

the wider, flatter container will have a greater overall root mass.

when i de-potted plants in 5 gal containers i would see a very thick layer of roots in the top 4" and a very thick layer in the bottom 4" but the roots would kind of thin out in between.

when i went to the 3.5 gal buckets i got the same development without the thinning in between which leads me to believe that the proximity to an air source has a lot to do with this. in the 3.5's with my hole pattern no part of the medium is further than 5" from an air source.

you could drill out the entire bucket to eliminate this "blank area" but in this device that would dampen the plunger effect.

in the 3.5 gal buckets i'm currently using 2.5 gals of medium which fills the bucket to the 7" point. this is just about the limit of capillary rise for the turface/ rice hull medium.

Im not sure if its 1/4"..... cable is very strong im sure 1/8" would hold.

I am familiar with the rootzone of this plant being relatively close to the surface. I have been playing around with the idea of a kiddie pool PPk for out doors. I might use tubs in the other room to give more lateral growth. I believe in yin yan, as above so below. That was my initial reason to go with the 5 gallons.

I didnt see it documented in this thread and it may be basic knowledge to all of you... the tool to pull the tire valve through also can remove the inner mechanism of the valve. This makes driiiing through very easy. My partner did not know this and drilled out all 8 of the buckets. I realized after partially drilling out two of the valves for the black box.

The end directly above the the threaded side that you use to pull the valve through has a notch that fits inside the valve and unscrew the spring loaded plunger part. In the picture below you can see the plunger and the end of the tool.


The tool also had a tapered reverse threaded end to remove the plunger. I used this for one of the valves that I partially drilled out. The first pic shows the tapered end with the partially drilled plunger on it. The second pic shows this remaining piece of the plunger on the tapered endPut this end in the valve and twist counter clockwise to remove a partial plunger. The reverse threads will dig into the plunger while unscrewing it.


After removing the plungers I used a 5/32 bit and then a 3/16 bit to drill out the inside. One plunger was damaged and I had to use a 1/8" then 5/32" then 3/16".

 

[high life 45]

Here is a picture of my manifold.
I used a larger 1 1/2' "T" with plugs in it. I was able to push and twist the feed tubes back and forth into the "T" with lube.
I cut the tubes at a 60 degree angle and then shaved down the larger end to aid to the installation. The first tube took about 20 minutes maybe more. I tried D9's method with the needle nose pliers and was not satisfied. I felt like the he must be some kind of superhuman surgeon. I was not satisfied so I used a 3/8" drill bit with my hand (not in a drill) and tapered the outside of the entry hole with two or three rotations. Then with lube and rocking back and forth I was able to get the tube in within two minutes.

The end of the taper that was closest to me as I attempted to shove it in would often form a nib that was outside the hole I was trying to shove it into. I used the needle nose to squeeze it and it made it much easier to push in.

This worked for me and each individual is entitled to their own experience with the PPK assembly. D9 I am not discrediting your instructions in anyway I am just sharing my experience to aid those who may be silently watching.

Ta may toe or ta mah toe
Were all individuals walking a path of unity
This synchronized society is together a community

 

[delta9nxs]

man, that's incredible! well, actually we have two incredibles. first, that someone was even able to drill out a valve with the stem in place and keep it straight and intact.

second, i think you used the poly tube for the manifold. i use vinyl tubing for that as it will compress. and then connect it to the poly tube with a piece of latex tube. the vinyl tubing is very elastic, the poly tube is not. if you used the poly tube and a 3/8" hole i feel that it will pop out at some point.

using the vinyl tubing i have never had one of these connections fail. 11/32" hole with 3/8" vinyl tubing.

i used clear vinyl tubing from lowes as they don't stock black but inside the black box they are not getting much light anyway so no algae.

sorry about the confusion. all the info is here it's just hard to find sometimes.

 

[ImaginaryFriend]

3000+ posts and 206 pages and you think some things might get overlooked?

Wow. Might be time for a reread.

I poked around in some of my old threads and rediscovered thoughts I forgot I had ever had.

I seemed to have made sense.

I don't know if I should be happy about being coherent, or sad that I forgot about it...

 

[TheDillest]

Wow I'm glad I found this.

I searched "wick system soil" in google and found my way here.

The goal: grow a plant in fully ammended soil that requires only water to be added.

From seed to harvest I want to be able to only adjust the lights, prune the plant, and set the timers.

Water will come from a reserviour topped up by a float valve/hose.

Looks like I have found the right crowd here.

I'll be back in a month when I'm done reading the thread

 

[high life 45]

man, that's incredible! well, actually we have two incredibles. first, that someone was even able to drill out a valve with the stem in place and keep it straight and intact.

second, i think you used the poly tube for the manifold. i use vinyl tubing for that as it will compress. and then connect it to the poly tube with a piece of latex tube. the vinyl tubing is very elastic, the poly tube is not. if you used the poly tube and a 3/8" hole i feel that it will pop out at some point.

using the vinyl tubing i have never had one of these connections fail. 11/32" hole with 3/8" vinyl tubing.

i used clear vinyl tubing from lowes as they don't stock black but inside the black box they are not getting much light anyway so no algae.

sorry about the confusion. all the info is here it's just hard to find sometimes.

LOL

My buddy drilled out all 8 apparently. I used a 5/16 bit for the manifold and I did use the poly tube. I read the thread without the pictures before I joined the site. Someday I will have to go through it all again. I have been thinking about an outdoor kiddie pool ppk for lateral root growth.

"knowledge is imply remembering that which you have forgotten"
-african proverb

 

[high life 45]

Anyone using the "most" trace element mix from jr peters? I have seen other folks using it elsewhere so I ordered some just to have it on hand.

 

[delta9nxs]

Anyone using the "most" trace element mix from jr peters? I have seen other folks using it elsewhere so I ordered some just to have it on hand.

the trace elements are needed in such small amounts that you will not find it necessary to supplement them if you are using the jack's hydro special 5-12-26, which already contains them.

you may find them useful if you are mixing your own nutrients or are trying to grow in severely depleted soil.

 

[delta9nxs]

Wow I'm glad I found this.

I searched "wick system soil" in google and found my way here.

The goal: grow a plant in fully ammended soil that requires only water to be added.

From seed to harvest I want to be able to only adjust the lights, prune the plant, and set the timers.

Water will come from a reserviour topped up by a float valve/hose.

Looks like I have found the right crowd here.

I'll be back in a month when I'm done reading the thread

how, high are you? welcome! i have thought about this and while i don't want to try it indoors myself, i wonder why the organic indoor hydro crowd hasn't tried it yet.

good luck with both reading this monster and growing organically.

d9

 

[high life 45]

Today Im aiming to get all the lines run and dial in the top feed. Have you had any problems with the buckets closer to the manifold receiving more top feed or the buckets further away receiving less? I am concerned because there is 12' of distance between both end buckets. The buckets are on 4' centers.

When I bought the rice hulls the fellow at the brewing store said it was the most he has ever sold. 12 pounds.

I am gonna have to get a high volume RO. I have been looking at the evolution ro1000. There is no water at our unit so we have to run a hose from 180' away. I dont want to wait all day to fill up a couple trash cans full of water.

 

[delta9nxs]

Today Im aiming to get all the lines run and dial in the top feed. Have you had any problems with the buckets closer to the manifold receiving more top feed or the buckets further away receiving less? I am concerned because there is 12' of distance between both end buckets. The buckets are on 4' centers.

When I bought the rice hulls the fellow at the brewing store said it was the most he has ever sold. 12 pounds.

I am gonna have to get a high volume RO. I have been looking at the evolution ro1000. There is no water at our unit so we have to run a hose from 180' away. I dont want to wait all day to fill up a couple trash cans full of water.

hey, the pulse lines have to be equal length to get equal delivery. i make the longest one first and then measure all to the same length.

the sub-irrigation lines can be cut to length as needed as gravity will make them all equal.

how bad is your tap water? if it is under about 120 ppm at .5 you should be able to use the jack's as instructed without problems.

 

[high life 45]

Waters alright, I just prefer ro. It was night and day when I switched. The leaves tend to claw pretty easily without ro.

 

[ImaginaryFriend]

In my experience, RO is expensive and complicated and messy.

I love it.

Brings a real level of 'knownness' to a garden, and I've observed extreem seasonal changes in the quality of water in different locations. I feel shitty about pissing away water out the discharge, but fuck it... lets pave paradise and put up a parking lot.

 

[Guest 142956]

One of the reason I haven't got to the top feeding yet is there are no timers I can find that run only for seconds. That changed, I was in a Academy sporting goods store and they had deer feeder digital timers on sale. These are of course 6 or 12 volt models but they are made to run for seconds. I chose a 12 volt model, I already have a good 12 volt battery and a 12 volt solar panel. I can get a solenoid that the timer will activate and close a switch wired 120 to start a pond fountain pump or I can use a small 12 volt sump pump made for boats. Will the light from the 400 watt HPS inspire the solar panel to keep the battery charged? Is top feeding why you can run your fert strength at or less than half what I have to run it?

 

[delta9nxs]

"living life by the drop" stevie ray vaughn

"living life by the drop" stevie ray vaughn

One of the reason I haven't got to the top feeding yet is there are no timers I can find that run only for seconds. That changed, I was in a Academy sporting goods store and they had deer feeder digital timers on sale. These are of course 6 or 12 volt models but they are made to run for seconds. I chose a 12 volt model, I already have a good 12 volt battery and a 12 volt solar panel. I can get a solenoid that the timer will activate and close a switch wired 120 to start a pond fountain pump or I can use a small 12 volt sump pump made for boats. Will the light from the 400 watt HPS inspire the solar panel to keep the battery charged? Is top feeding why you can run your fert strength at or less than half what I have to run it?

hey bill! both of the rotary switched analog repeat cycle timers sold by green air and cap will do increments in seconds and i just unpacked my new sentinel drt-1 digital and it does it too.

the analog ones are good for experimental purposes as you can just walk by and twist the knob a little bit. but then you have to sit and time it with a watch to get a precise duration.

now that i'm about done experimenting i'll just set the drt-1 one time and forget it. i intend to fire 3 pumps with it.

i've come to the conclusion that it is the medium we are watering, not so much the plant. based on this i've been giving enough to cause solution to come out of the sidewall holes. when this occurs it means the perched water table has fully formed and gravity is causing the overburden to flow out.

this should be set to your slowest medium. the rest will be fine.

with my turface/ricehull medium at 2.5 gals of volume in a 3.5 gal container i am really liking what i see with a 90 min interval.

 

[delta9nxs]

purple kushedge

let's see, the first pic is the purple nukush just put into flower. then we have a series of the same plant at 3 weeks. mrs d was shooting fast as the lights were starting up one at a time but you can still see the incredible health of the plant. there is not a single spot on any leaf or any other imperfections that i can find.

again at 600 ppm with jack's and calcinit. no ph adjusters.

looking closely at the leaves you can see that the moisture content of the medium is almost perfect.

duration is flood to overflow with a 90 min interval, around the clock.

also i want you all to know that this is our favorite plant so far. the taste and aroma are incredibly delicious. it is extremely smooth, zero harshness. the buzz is energetic, uplifting, and fun. sticks to your ribs, too.

 

[delta9nxs]

.