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Tutorial Organics for Beginners

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
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Sorry if there was any confusion there...I'll try again

Can I make a concentrate of veg mix tea, say 4 times the strength, bubble it then cut that with plain water to bring it to normal strength?

3rd I

Yes.
 

BurnOne

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ICMag Donor
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Disguised-
You can't use 3LB's used soil mix with your first grow. It isn't USED yet. Start with LC's Mix and recipe #1. Then after harvest, you can go with 3LB's used soil mix. Remember though, 3LB mixed in all the plant scraps including the roots and composted it for months before reusing it. It's not something that can be done quickly.
Burn1
 

jesterg

New member
NickMode-
Well now, it looks like you're ready with that fencing.
Since you have that, I'd use the blood/bone/kelp program. Don't worry about the greensand and Liquid Karma.
Digging a hole and pouring in a soil mix may create a "pond" that would hold water if you got a lot of rain for a long time. That could cause root rot.
I'd use your native soil and LC's mix together. Try to make your soil mixture a total mix of 20% perlite, 30% worm castings and 25% native soil and 25% peat. Till them together using about a four cubic foot total area. Use four cups of dolomite lime, two cups blood, four cups bone and two cups kelp. Keep the area good and damp for the five week period you're talking about. Turn the soil a couple times a week if you can to give the bacteria some oxygen.
Now don't plant your seeds there. The nitrogen in that mix will kill your seedlings. Go ahead and germinate your seeds in plain LC's mix (no blood/bone/kelp). Water them with a worm casting tea of 1 cup worm castings to five gallons of water. In five weeks, they should be strong enough to be transplanted into your outdoor plot.
If you are using clones/cuttings, you should let them root very well before transplanting them into your plot.
I hope that helps you Man. Let me know and keep us posted on your progress.
Burn1

Just wondering why in this modified recipe its 20% perlite / 30% EWC rather than 30% perlite 20% EWC ... also Ive decided to go with a 50/50 mix of odour-free composted cow manure / composted sheep manure ( both NPK ratios are .6-.4-.4 and each 30L bag claims at least 25% organic matter ) instead of the Earthworm Castings. Should that be a sufficent amount of humus / nutrients to prevent def. and keep PH balanced throughout the season? im also using your dry fert recipe + polymer crystals.
 

BurnOne

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ICMag Donor
Veteran
Just wondering why in this modified recipe its 20% perlite / 30% EWC rather than 30% perlite 20% EWC ... also Ive decided to go with a 50/50 mix of odour-free composted cow manure / composted sheep manure ( both NPK ratios are .6-.4-.4 and each 30L bag claims at least 25% organic matter ) instead of the Earthworm Castings. Should that be a sufficent amount of humus / nutrients to prevent def. and keep PH balanced throughout the season? im also using your dry fert recipe + polymer crystals.

If you change the recipe, you then become the researcher. Let us know how it turns out.
Burn1
 

jesterg

New member
I wasnt trying to change your recipe much actually. Was just wondering if composted cow / sheep manure can replace EWC.
 

BurnOne

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ICMag Donor
Veteran
What I meant is I'm not sure. I've never tried it. Composted cow manure will work in a pinch but I don't know about sheep manure. Why not make your own compost or worm castings? It's easy.
Burn1
 

jesterg

New member
What I meant is I'm not sure. I've never tried it. Composted cow manure will work in a pinch but I don't know about sheep manure. Why not make your own compost or worm castings? It's easy.
Burn1

I saw a nice composted cow manure w/ added peat and humus so I think I will be going with that for my outdoors this year. I'll definately plan ahead and make my own compost / worm castings next year.

Mix: 25% Original Soil / 25% Peat-Moss / 30% Composted Cow Manure w/ added peat + humus / 20% Perlite ... hope it all works out ;0

:joint: THANK YOU BURN ONE !!!!! :joint:
 

3rd I

Member
I figured i would post a few pics of preparing LC's #1 mix outdoors...

Preparing my last plot
picture.php


picture.php


Blood, Bone, Greensand, Dolomite Lime, Kelp Meal, and Polymers on top of worm castings

picture.php
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I saw a nice composted cow manure w/ added peat and humus so I think I will be going with that for my outdoors this year. I'll definately plan ahead and make my own compost / worm castings next year.

Mix: 25% Original Soil / 25% Peat-Moss / 30% Composted Cow Manure w/ added peat + humus / 20% Perlite ... hope it all works out ;0

:joint: THANK YOU BURN ONE !!!!! :joint:

Where's the powdered dolomite lime??? You'll need it!!!

Thanks, That was an old picture I posted to see if it's safe to transplant into that same soil. Would it be a problem to add more dolomite lime to the soil or would Epsom salts be required every watering instead? New growth is beginning to curl inward the same way on seedlings in 16oz cups now (LC mix #1 / no food). Thanks again for your help.

You can add 50% more powdered dolomite lime if you want or use Epsom salts. Wait a minute... You did use POWDERED dolomite didn't you???
Burn1
By the way. That plant above looks perfectly healthy to me.
 

BurnOne

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Veteran
This does not need to be brewed/aerated right?

Nope. You can have a bucket of worm casting tea with molasses bubbling overnight and just pour the ingredients in so you have plenty of oxygenated water, humates and microherd available. But bubbling fish products is not recommended. Shoooo:mad:
Burn1
 

neongreen

Active member
Veteran
Got ya. Thanks B1.

I'm going to foliar feed which is something I've not done much in the past - does 2x per week alternating between plain EWC tea and the solution you suggested sound like a reasonable schedule? Would more often be better or is it a case of "try it and see"?

Also, would you use as a soil drench at the same time? I'm outdoors and the soil is wet anyway (rain!), so I'm avoiding wetting the soil right now, hence the foliar feeds.

Thanks again!
ng
 
Helps!

Helps!

Hello again.

As prescribed, I have been giving the plants blood meal with every watering for about a week now. However, I'm becoming concerned that we may have mis-diagnosed the issue. Here is the current status of my plants, along with some pictures that I hope turned out good enough to use.

You do have to pardon me....I'm not very good at describing things, and my camera blows. Hopefully everything will be clear enough.

LC's Promix recipe w/ dry ferts.

PLANT 1: Burn One Einstein

Lower leaves: Pale green / yellowing. Some tip and edge burn / yellowing, some burn spots. Some downwards pointing tip curl. Yellow veins.

Upper growth: Pale green. Downward tip curl more pronounced. No burn.

B1E-SICK05.jpg


Ugh, none of the pictures for this plant turned out very well, but hope you get some idea. Here are the rest of the pics

http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv154/BorkBorkBork420/SICK/B1E-SICK01.jpg
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv154/BorkBorkBork420/SICK/B1E-SICK02.jpg
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv154/BorkBorkBork420/SICK/B1E-SICK03.jpg
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv154/BorkBorkBork420/SICK/B1E-SICK04.jpg
http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/vv154/BorkBorkBork420/SICK/B1E-SICK06.jpg


PLANT 2: Mango x Bubblegum

Lower leaves: Pretty similar to B1E...maybe slightly less severe

Upper leaves: Slightly greener than B1E, still too pale. Serrated edges slightly upwards curled, looking more....serrated-y.

MXB-SICK01.jpg

MXB-SICK03.jpg



Upper growth

MXB-SICK04.jpg

MXB-SICK07.jpg



PLANT 3: Ice Queen

Smallest plant, smallest pot, slightly different symptoms. On the leaves, the veins are green, but the leaves themselves are very light green / yellowish. Downward curl on the leaves. No noticeable burn marks.

IQ-SICK01.jpg

IQ-SICK02.jpg




There is a 4th plant, but it appears to be the healthiest (though thinnest) of all 4. Much darker green leaves, so I have not been giving her the blood meal treatment. The only issue with her is some burning on a few lower leaves.

What do you think?

Notes: I do not PH my water, but I believe it is high. Plants 1 & 2 vegged for several months in these 3gal pots before inducing flowering. Plant 3 is in a 6" pot. Last several waterings have been water + blood @ 1tsp/gal + LK at 2.5tsp/gal + unsulphured blackstrap @ ~1tbsp/gal. Only other thing I've ever given them is water+LK or EWC Tea+LK+molasses.
 
I have a couple questions:

1. Is there anything else that can be used instead of the lime? I can't find any.

2. Is the molasses used because of the (Manganese, copper, iron, calcium, potassium, Magnesium, vitamin b6, and selenium?) nutrients? If so, if this molasses can't be found, then couldn't something else that gives these nutrients be used?

I noticed that at Sutherlands, while they did not have the lime..they had a whole host of stuff I can't even remember all..but i do remember seeing bloodmeal, bonemeal, fish fertilizer and a bunch of other things...they seemed to have alot of organic type stuff so I am going to look and see if they have anything that can substitute for the various recipes.
 

BurnOne

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ICMag Donor
Veteran
BorkBorkBork-
I'd bet by plants that's a nitrogen deficiency. The burned crispy leaves look like a potassium deficiency. I wonder how old the dried blood is you bought. When you switch your lights to 12/12 the plants start to stretch and need a lot of nitrogen. After about two weeks, they start to need a lot less.
A couple of questions...
1- What brand of dried blood did you use? Can you show a pic?
2- Did you use POWDERED dolomite lime?
3- What brand of seaweed/kelp did you use? Can you show a pic?

I just want to back up to the beginning and go over everything. When troubleshooting a problem, you must start at the beginning and work your way forward. If you start in the middle you'll miss something. BTDT.
Give us the info my man.
Burn1
 

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