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Tutorial Organics for Beginners

OldTimers

Member
Thanks MaryJohn .. That thought came to mind a few times after I had wrote that post .. And i think i will take that route since i am only doing 2 clones .. I invite everyone to stop by my thread and have a cold one and smoke one .. (Soon as i get the thread started in Micro section hahahaha dont think anyone wants to just see a Cab with no plants .. )
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I agree. Don't keep all your eggs in one basket. Try several different methods. It's fun.
Burn1
 
Much Love Burn One!

My two big girls seem to have bounced back pretty nicely after the double-shot of blood! I gave them one more single dose tonight, and I'll probably go back to their normal feeding routine after that.

The little one isn't doing so good though, and I think we misdiagnosed her, and I missed some symptoms.

I left my garden alone for 2 1/2 days, so I could really see the effect it would have, so now it's much more obvious to me.

The bottom leaves are yellowing and falling off, no burn though. The upper leaves are yellowing and the veins are staying green. The stems are very PURPLE (which I hadn't noticed before. All the plants stems were purplish at some point, so it hadn't really registered with me until now). Lots of downward facing tips.

Referencing Jorge's book, it seems to line up pretty bang on with the symptoms of sulfur deficiency.

Would you agree, and what would you recommend? He mentions mushroom compost as an organic source. Would that help, and if so, how should I apply it?

Horrible pics to follow:

IQ-SICK03.jpg

IQ-SICK04.jpg

IQ-SICK05.jpg

IQ-SICK06.jpg
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
Referencing Jorge's book, it seems to line up pretty bang on with the symptoms of sulfur deficiency.
Jorge Cervantes is an idiot.

Period.

While it is true that finding legitimate 'grow books' takes a bit of research, it's also a fact that Jorge's books are at the bottom of any list.

Unless this is an individual's first grow so it probably doesn't matter I suppose.

CC
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Purple means not enough phosphorous (P). Man, are you SURE you mixed the right amounts of blood/bone/kelp? Downward pointed leaves usually means the medium is too wet. I've never had a deficiency with blood/bone/kelp and I've grown just about everything in it. Something's wrong here.
Burn1
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
BurnOne

On an agricultural question I'd like to ask you about your opinions on specific 'lime' sources and their advantages vs. disadvantages.

What I do NOT want to do is engage you in an argument in any way. The issue is about 'calcitic limestone' vs 'dolomitic limestone' in a general mineral/rock dust mixture that I have available.

We will probably have to 'agree to disagree' on some specific dynamics relative to the use of 'dolomite lime' but I was hoping that with your knowledge you might want to answer a couple of questions that have come up in my little corner of the world.

Thanks!

Peace

CC
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
CC-
It all has to do with the amount of calcium and magnesium the lime contains and how much of each the particular strain of plant needs to be healthy. For beginners just starting out with organic growing, I feel that powdered dolomite will give the best results with fewer problems. Calcitic lime is fine if you know how to quickly spot a deficiency. Most new growers don't.
Just because I'm old and grumpy doesn't mean I like to argue. :fight: LOL :biglaugh:
Burn1
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
BurnOne

Thanks for the 'invite' to 'argue' and/or 'discuss'

Here's the make-up of a product that a local farm store has available: 20% each: Azomite, Glacial Rock, Greensand, Soft Rock Phosphate & Limestone

I called them and asked which specific 'limestone' that they are using. I asked if it was 'dolomite lime' and you would have thought that I was asking about child abuse. I got a long, long lecture about the 'evils' of using dolomite lime in an agricultural situation - not about container soil preparation. It was/is their position that 'dolomite lime' should only be applied every 2 or 3 years and then end that process. And they had some good solid reasons why they hold that position.

I'm not knowledgeable enough to argue their position one way or the other.

Back to their mixture - assuming that I'm using organic coconut coir (fairly PH neutral), at a 50% level of the total mix, then with 25% pumice (which I prefer over Perlite for any number of reasons) and 25% of my own EWC along with their 'mineral mix' that I noted above.

Do you see any problems by not adding 'dolomite lime' per se? Keep in mind that I will be adding pure humic acid, seaweed extract and the usual beneficial fungai with the plants being fed with fish hydrosylate, kelp meal extract, yucca extract and the 'occasional' addition of small amounts of molasses.

Your thoughts/opinions will be well received and appreciated.

CC
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Man, you're just going to have to try it. I have no idea how much you should start with. Did they give you the percentages of magnesium and calcium in that product? Sorry Bro, it's just something I have never experimented with.
Good luck.
Burn1
 

Clackamas Coot

Active member
Veteran
BurnOne

It's a 'prilled' lime product. I've never interjected into the whole 'lime' discussions on this board, especially as it relates to 'pellitized' vs. 'prilled' lime because they're 2 completely different products.

Yeah - they're both 'dolomite lime' (under specific product profiles) but one breaks down very slowly which is the one that you've always warned against. The other product, while 'pellitized' breaks down almost immediately.

This is manufactured for farmers who will use a 'hose' or a 'gun' (you pick the term) to spread lime onto a growing field. Hauling around 50-lb. bags of lime to distribute on several hundred acres is a real bitch - LOL

Peace

CC
 
Purple means not enough phosphorous (P). Man, are you SURE you mixed the right amounts of blood/bone/kelp? Downward pointed leaves usually means the medium is too wet. I've never had a deficiency with blood/bone/kelp and I've grown just about everything in it. Something's wrong here.
Burn1


Yep, yep, yep, I'm confident on the dry fert amounts, I double-triple checked before mixing. She wasn't too wet either, she's in a six inch pot and hadn't been fed since Sunday AM, she was thirsty.

Keep in mind the other 3 plants as well. which are in the same batch of soil. The two that were deficient are looking much better after the N treatment, and the third one is a lush, nice, dark green. Unfortunately, she's stretchy as hell and looks like she might be a lower yielder than the little IQ plant we're talking about now.

What about the green vein/yellowing upper leaves?

Also, bear in mind, she's in a tiny pot, and her roots got pretty mangled by me a week or two before flowering. Don't know if either of those could be playing apart.

Also, 3 of the 4 (including this one) are completely unknown genetics. Maybe she's just a picky eater. :moon:

I fed her just plain water tonight.

I don't wanna give up on her. :(

For what it's worth, it's bang on to Jorge's description of Sulfur deficiency, and very close in the pictures. It doesn't match up very well with the description or pictures of Phosphorus deficiency.

In fact, it looks scarily like the late stage sulfur deficiency picture! :yoinks:
 
Another thought that occurred to me, which I don't remember if I mentioned or not...

I've fed them EWC tea w/ molasses AND Liquid Karma pretty much throughout, with just an occasional plain watering. Has that been too much? I'm in the process of re-reading the thread from the beginning again, and I saw you say every third watering, and that LK could be SUBSTITUTED with EWC tea.
 

OldTimers

Member
Ive got one more question for now BurnOne or anyone else who could assist me ... RECIPE #5 Fish and Seaweed any kind of water sched. for this Recipe ? Or do i just give my plants one gallon for veg one gallon for early flower and one gallon for late flowering and water with just regular RO water in between
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Ive got one more question for now BurnOne or anyone else who could assist me ... RECIPE #5 Fish and Seaweed any kind of water sched. for this Recipe ? Or do i just give my plants one gallon for veg one gallon for early flower and one gallon for late flowering and water with just regular RO water in between

Every watering.
 

stoned_skater

New member
Hi All,

I'm using LC's Soiless Mix #1 with dry ingredient Recipe #1. My plants are a little less than half way through their flowering period and I've been really happy the way my plants have looked so far. However, just in the last couple of days I'm noticing a few leaves showing some signs of distress. I want to remedy the problem (if it is a problem) fast because I know how fast this can spiral out of control.

Would appreciate if someone could take a look and let me know what they think is going on and possible remedy.

Thanks,



picture.php
 

BurnOne

No damn given.
ICMag Donor
Veteran
stoned skater-
That's normal for that period of flowering. The plant has left vegetative and is focusing on reproduction. The fan leaves have served their purpose and are now dieing and falling off. The plants energy is going on the buds.
Burn1
 

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