Where's the kelp?
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Tutorial Organics for Beginners
- Thread starter BurnOne
- Start date
Where's the kelp?
pickledLSD
Active member
can't find any kelp locally. I guess i'll just have to order some. I was trying to source everything locally this grow. Can I use the cow compost in my mixtures just like it was EWC? I guess I'll ditch the molasses and alaskan fish emulsion and add the kelp like the original mix calls for
I'm almost ready, I just have one last snag. Going to be using LCs Mix #1 plus..
Indoor: Bongaloids Guano & Kelp Mix. I found the extra notes on this recipe so will be feeding guano & kelp tea until the first four weeks flower, every third watering. As I'm inexperienced, I'll be cranking back the ratios of guano a bit, I can always supplement later on.
Outdoor: Blood/Bone/Kelp. This post from B1 was really helpful in making the choice, I don't have to worry about animals. I also need the simplicity of feeding just plain water through the season.
My issue..
Blood meal is actually proving the hardest thing for me to get hold of quick, whereas I've got a bunch of high N guano.
My question..
How quickly does high N guano release, compared to blood? Would I be able to 'cook' and use the soil in the same way if using guano instead of blood, i.e. feeding plain water for most of the outdoor season?
Any help massively appreciated as always.
Indoor: Bongaloids Guano & Kelp Mix. I found the extra notes on this recipe so will be feeding guano & kelp tea until the first four weeks flower, every third watering. As I'm inexperienced, I'll be cranking back the ratios of guano a bit, I can always supplement later on.
Outdoor: Blood/Bone/Kelp. This post from B1 was really helpful in making the choice, I don't have to worry about animals. I also need the simplicity of feeding just plain water through the season.
My issue..
Blood meal is actually proving the hardest thing for me to get hold of quick, whereas I've got a bunch of high N guano.
My question..
How quickly does high N guano release, compared to blood? Would I be able to 'cook' and use the soil in the same way if using guano instead of blood, i.e. feeding plain water for most of the outdoor season?
Any help massively appreciated as always.
NanoScroger
Member
quick one for ya burn, when i mix up LC's mix, do i need to let the soil cook for a while, or is it ready for immediate use?
LCs mix #1 with no ferts added is ready for use immediately.
Yup. Don't make the mistake I did and put your newly sprouted seedlings into ferted LC's mix! Doh!
NanoScroger
Member
awesome, thanks for the "snappy" reply....lol ok im dumb.
k.j. - what the hell is a seedling? lol clones or die tryin!
V
vonforne
Is this mix for Veg. or Flower. If it is for veg then you need 2 TBS N and one for P.
V
bostrom155
Active member
Just a thought, but this might need revised in the "Organics for Beginners" thread:
Chlorine tap water
Just a word of caution for you organic heads out there...
If you are tapped onto a municipal water supply that uses chlorine to kill bacteria in the water, it'll do the same thing to the bacteria (microherd) in your organic food source.
Always bubble your municipal water in an open container (5 gallon bucket) for 24 hours before adding ANYTHING organic to it.
to something along the line of
Chlorine/Chloramine tap water
Just a word of caution for you organic heads out there...
If you are tapped onto a municipal water supply that uses chlorine/chloramine to kill bacteria in the water, it'll do the same thing to the bacteria (microherd) in your organic food source. First confirm with your water company whether they use chlorine or chloramides. If they use chlorine bubble your municipal water in an open container (5 gallon bucket) for 24 hours before adding ANYTHING organic to it. However if they are using chloramine you must filter your water using carbon and zeolite. Another option is the use Asorbic acid or vitamin C tablets. One 500mg tablet(perfer capsules, just open the capsule and bump into five gallon bucket) then areate the water as usual for 24 hours. Asorbic Acid breaks the chlorine/ammonia bond and the ammonia will dissapate.
or something along those lines, i'm sure others can chime in with some knowledge. I know here in the states it is just a matter of time before everyone will have chloramides in thier water. Just hate to see people thinking they have only chlorine in thier water when they dont
Chlorine tap water
Just a word of caution for you organic heads out there...
If you are tapped onto a municipal water supply that uses chlorine to kill bacteria in the water, it'll do the same thing to the bacteria (microherd) in your organic food source.
Always bubble your municipal water in an open container (5 gallon bucket) for 24 hours before adding ANYTHING organic to it.
to something along the line of
Chlorine/Chloramine tap water
Just a word of caution for you organic heads out there...
If you are tapped onto a municipal water supply that uses chlorine/chloramine to kill bacteria in the water, it'll do the same thing to the bacteria (microherd) in your organic food source. First confirm with your water company whether they use chlorine or chloramides. If they use chlorine bubble your municipal water in an open container (5 gallon bucket) for 24 hours before adding ANYTHING organic to it. However if they are using chloramine you must filter your water using carbon and zeolite. Another option is the use Asorbic acid or vitamin C tablets. One 500mg tablet(perfer capsules, just open the capsule and bump into five gallon bucket) then areate the water as usual for 24 hours. Asorbic Acid breaks the chlorine/ammonia bond and the ammonia will dissapate.
or something along those lines, i'm sure others can chime in with some knowledge. I know here in the states it is just a matter of time before everyone will have chloramides in thier water. Just hate to see people thinking they have only chlorine in thier water when they dont
Hello Again mr Burnone 
thanks again for all the help on my last post. I figured it would be a bunch of " you dont need all this shit " anyway im venturing into the outdoors this year and I have decided to use your revised #1 soil recipe ( 25% original soil / 25% coco coir / 30% earthworm casting / 20% perlite ) and I was wondering since EWC are $30/35 for 30lbs would it be okay for me to switch over to Scotts - Organic Compost? which is only $4 for 28lbs ... ammended into the soil Im be using lime / alfalfa / bone / kelp meals + polymer crystals ( each hole will be 1ft 6 inch x 1ft 6inxh x 1ft 9 inch - total 4cu3 )
and I also use Soil Recipe #2 ( promix hp / EWC / perlite 3:1:1 ) indoors w/ dry ferts + watering w/ ewc tea. Would it be okay to change out EWC for organic compost in this recipe as well?
How does that all sound? Thanks again for your time
thanks again for all the help on my last post. I figured it would be a bunch of " you dont need all this shit " anyway im venturing into the outdoors this year and I have decided to use your revised #1 soil recipe ( 25% original soil / 25% coco coir / 30% earthworm casting / 20% perlite ) and I was wondering since EWC are $30/35 for 30lbs would it be okay for me to switch over to Scotts - Organic Compost? which is only $4 for 28lbs ... ammended into the soil Im be using lime / alfalfa / bone / kelp meals + polymer crystals ( each hole will be 1ft 6 inch x 1ft 6inxh x 1ft 9 inch - total 4cu3 )and I also use Soil Recipe #2 ( promix hp / EWC / perlite 3:1:1 ) indoors w/ dry ferts + watering w/ ewc tea. Would it be okay to change out EWC for organic compost in this recipe as well?
How does that all sound? Thanks again for your time
Medical
Member
Longtime reader. Never poster.
Longtime reader. Never poster.
Just wanted to point out that a good source of Dolomite Lime, Blood Meal, Bone Meal, Kelp Meal, and Alfalfa Meal is at a farm supply store.
Here in Canada we have a Co-Op usually as close as a Walmart, at the Co-Op you only need to deal with a few staff and they will order pretty much what ever you want.
I have a read every page now, and have a question. Wormcastings are hard to find around here and quite costly! I would like to use a mix of composted manures instead, which I read will be OK, do not remember if it is used in the same amount as castings or more or less.
Great thread...has taken me sometime to get through it all!
Longtime reader. Never poster.
Just wanted to point out that a good source of Dolomite Lime, Blood Meal, Bone Meal, Kelp Meal, and Alfalfa Meal is at a farm supply store.
Here in Canada we have a Co-Op usually as close as a Walmart, at the Co-Op you only need to deal with a few staff and they will order pretty much what ever you want.
I have a read every page now, and have a question. Wormcastings are hard to find around here and quite costly! I would like to use a mix of composted manures instead, which I read will be OK, do not remember if it is used in the same amount as castings or more or less.
Great thread...has taken me sometime to get through it all!
BorkBorkBork
Member
Eeep, help!
LC's #2 / Recipe #1 Dry Fert
My two girls who have been in 12/12 for 11 days now, are starting to flower nicely, but are already losing color/yellowing and not looking right.
I tried to get some shots, but I can't get the lighting right to really show what it's looking like. I attached a couple of the shots.
Basically, instead of a nice dark green, they are now light, yellowish green. That last picture is a pretty accurate representation of the plant color in general.
EWC tea w/ molasses every watering, I don't PH my water and really have no idea what it is, though I believe it's high.
Due to ... circumstances, I had to veg them for a looooong time before I could go 12/12....they were in these 3 gallon pots for...crap, I don't know, but they were in there for a good long while before I induced flowering. So I'm concerned that they ated up all the goodies.
I still have: blood meal, bone meal, kelp, greensand, ewc, lk. I also have BioBizz Grow & Bloom organic liquid nutes.
What I don't have: Cooked soil. It would take 2 weeks.
Is there something I can and should do with my dry ferts for the remainder of the flowering?
Should I start them on the BioBizz nutes?
Or am I off kilter, and barking up the wrong tree?
P.S. Her name is Burn One Einstein. <3
LC's #2 / Recipe #1 Dry Fert
My two girls who have been in 12/12 for 11 days now, are starting to flower nicely, but are already losing color/yellowing and not looking right.
I tried to get some shots, but I can't get the lighting right to really show what it's looking like. I attached a couple of the shots.
Basically, instead of a nice dark green, they are now light, yellowish green. That last picture is a pretty accurate representation of the plant color in general.
EWC tea w/ molasses every watering, I don't PH my water and really have no idea what it is, though I believe it's high.
Due to ... circumstances, I had to veg them for a looooong time before I could go 12/12....they were in these 3 gallon pots for...crap, I don't know, but they were in there for a good long while before I induced flowering. So I'm concerned that they ated up all the goodies.
I still have: blood meal, bone meal, kelp, greensand, ewc, lk. I also have BioBizz Grow & Bloom organic liquid nutes.
What I don't have: Cooked soil. It would take 2 weeks.
Is there something I can and should do with my dry ferts for the remainder of the flowering?
Should I start them on the BioBizz nutes?
Or am I off kilter, and barking up the wrong tree?
P.S. Her name is Burn One Einstein. <3
BorkBorkBork
Member
You da man, B1! Will add the blood to the watering regimen, starting tonight.
Can't wait to smoke your namesake!
Can't wait to smoke your namesake!
