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Organic Fanatic Collective

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Hey Cgrow,

no hating here man just sharing, some non organic ferts are safe to use in combination with an organic soil grow, think Pure Blend Pro and FoxFarm, they are organic based and have a non organic fert component but the plants thrive...

Some soil biology will be indifferent to the presence of hydro nutes, I will go out on a limb and guess they innoculate Pir and Tar by AN with hydro suited microbes.

;) don't forget to flush lol.

Suby
 
G

Guest

does water need to have airstones in it for the chlorine to evaporate, can i just leave it sitting?
 

Dignan

The Soapmaker!
Veteran
Aeration will accelerate the dechlor process, but isn't necessary. As long as the container has reasonable water surface area (like a bucket or large mouth mason jar, etc) the water will dechlor if it sits overnight.

FWIW, lately I've stopped dechlorinating my water before making teas or watering plants and have noticed no differences at all. I'm over the dechlorination personally.

Dig
 
G

Guest

Also, does it make sense for a company like AN to market Pirahna, Tarantula, etc, when people are going to use synthetic ferts and just kill off everything??
(please spare the AN hatred, I know how many people feel, keep it civil)


i aways questioned that issue myself as well? i actually asked the hydro guy that and he said, "nauh... bro, it's totaly organic it's all good, ok...... that'll be 1000.00 dollars!"

but strangly there whole arsenal of products do work! i'v trusted them for years
 

Dignan

The Soapmaker!
Veteran
I've always been skeptical about myco-innoculants used in hydro myself. Not based on any data, just seems odd that fungus would thrive submerged in water, even highly oxygenated water. Anyone have any input on that?
 
G

Guest

Dignan said:
Aeration will accelerate the dechlor process, but isn't necessary. As long as the container has reasonable water surface area (like a bucket or large mouth mason jar, etc) the water will dechlor if it sits overnight.

FWIW, lately I've stopped dechlorinating my water before making teas or watering plants and have noticed no differences at all. I'm over the dechlorination personally.

Dig

Thanks Dignan, i wonder how much chlorine it takes to kill all the little beastys
or beter yet whut % chlorine will kill whut % of microlife?
 

Dignan

The Soapmaker!
Veteran
I just came to the conclusion that worrying about it and hypothesizing and debating and measuring and researching.... was a pain in my ass and ultimately it detracted from my enjoyment of growing to some degree.

I do this because I enjoy it, so to me maximizing microlife is one objective ... but another- no less important - objective is to enjoy myself.

I feel free as a bird now. :bis:

Dignan
 

Smurf

stoke this joint
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Yeah I'm really curious what species of fungus it is that find its way onto those above foods that you guys are referring to?

As Suby said cannigrow, there's no hate here mate. In fact you have to give AN credit for promoting microbial life in all grow mediums with their ferts, I was always interested in exactly how the beasties in Pir & Tar stood up to the synthetic ferts. That said, I must admit to have seen the hyphae growing in soil on synthetically fed plants, so its quite a valid question. I for one would like to hear about your results cannigrow.

smurf :wave:
 
G

Guest

Yo suby do i have to ground up the oatmeal and all the ingredents or can i just throw them all in the container? oh... and can i use quaker oats it's the flake kind in the round carboaed circle container
 

Deft

Get two birds stoned at once
Veteran
If they have somthing to attach to and grow on why not, They seem to like to grow off of my sock in my teas around water level.
 
V

vonforne

buttcrack said:
Yo suby do i have to ground up the oatmeal and all the ingredents or can i just throw them all in the container? oh... and can i use quaker oats it's the flake kind in the round carboaed circle container

I'm going to use Quaker Oats. I might put them through the old blender and add the coffee ground. I just received my Gevalia special 4 pack so I will be drinking lots of coffee this weekend.

Keep us posted and I will post pictures as soon as I get everything ready.

V
 

cannigrow

Active member
well for sure I will post up some pictures when the time comes. Just taking rounds of clones now so it will be another month or so before they flower, but it'll be a fun one with some new stuff for me, pre 98 bubba, sister chem, white russian and purple urkle. I'd like to have an organic control plant of each to compare. The only synthetics I'll use are the conny, big bud and perhaps koolbloom.

As for the AN hatred, i just know how some people get when that name pops up. All seems well though. I can say that several good buddies of mine use their synthetics with all those goodies, and although I haven't seen their root systems, I think they do very well. I'm excited to see how all these fungi and bacteria work themselves with the Connoisseur.

Right now I've got some sour bubble bx4s in promix and ewc. I added a layer of perlite in the middle, and sprinkled some Plant SUccess mike onto that, then covered it up with more promix. Gave them a few sprays with Rhizo. The ones I did that to are on their third set of leaves in one week. Amazing growth, compared to the one that i left normal.
 
V

vonforne

As for the AN hatred, i just know how some people get when that name pops up.

LOL, don't tell anyone but I like their fulvic and humic acid. I use it from time to time also. :)

V
 
G

Guest

I started my fungus recently, i added some quaker oats, some shreded wheat (from my brewing days) coffee grounds, abd wet it to the core. i checked it today
and i could see what appears to be fungus beard allready on it! so today i just put some cut cantalop peels into it. my Q is can i throw that into my soil mix to start growing? or can i throw it into my tea let it brew then water it in? the reason i'm aking is i read that the fungus takes awhile to grow, right?
 
V

vonforne

I would let it beard up then top dress. That is how I'm going to do it. Let it get nice a fuzzy.

V
 

minds_I

Active member
Veteran
Hello all,

Von, I wanted to ask you about Mg deficiencies and the use of D.lime.

Now I know the formula has generally been 2 tbs per gallon of soil. In the beginning (1/05) i used this formula. As time went on and I experienced the manny pitfalls often encountered by newbs I began to get better. But I check my pH regularly and have found that too much D.lime in my soil mix (kellogg's chicken shit organic soil at the Depot) kept my pH nailed to about 7 on the nose.

After reading that a soil pH of 6.4 or so for soil is best. So anyway I started to experiment with D.lime doses and to that end I started to lower the dosage to about one heaping teaspoon per gallon.

At this rate and using a pH of 6.2 or so on fluids I get a runoff of 6.7 +/- a 1oth of a point on runoff.

I do however see a Mg deficiency if I do not use Epson Salts at a 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of liquid.

I also know that my city water uses a sequestering agent int he water suplly that bonds with Mg and Calcium (the major constituants of hard water) and they precipitate out of solution. I am wondering if maybe this sequestering agent is still present and continuing to lock up Mg and Ca?

Anyway, there is a balance between the proper pH and Mg and Ca.

Your thoughts on too little D.lime in conjunction with water suplly that may be causing any deficiencies.

minds_I

PS: this thread certainly is phat with knowledge.....
 
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JDOG6000

Active member
Veteran
Killer thread guys.
So much good info.
It's gonna take a while to read all of it.
Just wanted to say thanks.
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
MI have you considered Sulpomag?

SUL-PO-MAG
A naturally occurring mineral containing significant quantities of sulfur, potash, and magnesium- potassium (22%) and sulfur (22%) source with 11% magnesium, for use on low-magnesium soils.




langbeinite(K2Mg2(SO4)3)-sulfur, potassium and magnesium source. Present in the water-soluble sulfate form, these three plant nutrients are essential for plant growth and are vital to profitable crop production.
A naturally occurring mineral containing significant quantities of sulfur, potash, and magnesium. Get it here at
SUL-PO-MAG .



Alliums like it.

Sulfur is translocated within plants and is involved in synthesis of sulfur amino acids which combine with other to form plant protein. Potassium helps root systems develop, increase plant vigor, and resistance to cold weather.

This mineral is completely soluble in water and does not alter the pH of the soil.

Crops with adequate potassium will have stronger stocks and stems, produce lots of sugar and protein and be more disease resistant.

Potassium is another soil mineral that can be supplemented from a wide variety of sources including granite rock dust, greensand, kelp meal, animal manure, wood ash, as well as fish meals and emulsions.

http://www.basic-info-4-organic-fertilizers.com/sulpomag.html

The link is quite nice also.
I've been toying with sulpomag as way of boosting Potassium levels in flowering

Suby
S
 
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