G
Guest
how often do u feed and water with this mix
-
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Organic Fanatic Collective
- Thread starter Suby
- Start date
G
Guest
buttcrack - LOL name!
I water every 3-4 days average. With the heat I am about every 2-3 days. 5 gallon buckets. I water a bout 3/4 gallon each watering. I feed this mix each watering and am giving only plain water the last 2-3 weeks. Keeping the ph in check is key. I was too acidic for a while and now that I am closer to 6.0 - the results are getting better every day!
I am going to try substituting my inorganic bloom booster with bat guano - but the booster has all micronutes in it and guano is just phos. I am debating.
I water every 3-4 days average. With the heat I am about every 2-3 days. 5 gallon buckets. I water a bout 3/4 gallon each watering. I feed this mix each watering and am giving only plain water the last 2-3 weeks. Keeping the ph in check is key. I was too acidic for a while and now that I am closer to 6.0 - the results are getting better every day!
I am going to try substituting my inorganic bloom booster with bat guano - but the booster has all micronutes in it and guano is just phos. I am debating.
G
Guest
I just mixed up my soil innuculated it with a tea, and since i did'nt have any container to put it in after i mixed it i just put it in garbage bags, this was last week i just opened the bag today and notice a fowl stench! and that tells me anarobic bacteria got in it? cuzz thats the same smell i got from leaving a old brewed tea out with no air pump on, whut do i do? i'm guessing this is really bad 
V
vonforne
Just mix it up buttcrack. 02 will kill the anaerobic bacteria. It hates air. Mix it up everyday for the next week and leave the bag slightly open to allow some 02 into the bag.
V
V
G
Guest
Thanks Von, dam that really scared the shit out of me, i thought i had really fucked it up and wasted my money and time.
Organic Tea Party with The Rev.
Organic Tea Party with The Rev.
Suby had asked me to post this here for you all so here it is.
I stopped by my local news stand the other week and picked up Skunk Magazine....Excellent mag IMO.
Anyways what got me to buy it was an article on Organic Teas...I have yet to grow 100% organicly and thought I'd pick this rag up for when I do decide to.
Anyways thought I'd share it with you....
Welcome brothers & sisters.In this installation of Living Organics,we're going to learn about the glory of organic compost teas.But I'm not talking about the Celestial Seasonings sitting on your grocer's shelf.If you're growing in soil and want to learn how to come closer to maximizing the potential of your genetics,read on.You'll learn how to create,administer,and benefit from a largely underutilized technique that has produced some stellar results for me over the years.
You may recall from some of my past articles the nutritional benefits of soil microlife for cannabis plants in fully organic environments.To get a better idea of the advantages of teas,note that a teaspoon of compost contains about one billion beneficial microscopic organisms.However,a teaspoon of organic tea is populated by about four billion microbeasties.Another advantage is that pot plants benefit immediately from teas.Think of teas as organic steroids for your plants.
Not Just For Roots
Teas are not only beneficial for your plant roots,but also for leaves.I like to spray a bit on the leaves in a topical application.The benefit comes from the "coating" of microbes that you create on the leaf when you spray it.This basically muscles out any bad microbes.Be sure to cover atleast 70% of the leaf surface with the tea-spray,ensuring that you get both the tops and bottoms.
Fungus vs. Bacteria
Most teas are bacteria-dominant.However,in flowering,fungus is a tremendous benefit to your plants.I wouldn't stress this if I hadn't seen for myself what a difference the fungi make.Organic plants are all about fungi when flowering.If the fungi aren't present,there's just no way to push your plants to the limits of yield and quality.In fact,fungi-dominant teas are so good that they're the trick to achieving yields that border on those produced in finely tuned hydroponic environments.
Fungus takes longer to grow than bacteria.In the population race,bacteria always outgrows fungi by a large margin.Thus,when making a fungi-dominant tea,you have to give the fungi a head start.
Fungus plays a special role during flowering,delivering things such as phosphorous to the plants roots.They also breakdown secondary mineral nutrients and ammonium nitrogen available to the roots.Bacteria then convert the ammonium nitrogen to nitric nitrogen.Both varieties of nitrogen,ammonium and nitric,can be used by a cannabis plant and help it grow vigorously.
Nitric Nitrogen: Makes the plants grow shorter & wider,with closer node spacing.
Ammonium Nitrogen: Causes some stretch in the plant.
Nutrient Flexible
Teas can provide your plants with more than good bacteria.If your plant are lacking food or you encounter a problem that you need to correct,teas are an excellent vehicle for infusing your soil with nutrients.
Personally,I utilize teas mostly to provide my plants with fungi.How many nutrients you should add to you tea depends on what you already have in your particular soil (and needs of your plants).I pack my soil with tons of long-term nitrogen,phosphorous,and potassium,so I don't have to worry about the tea playing the role of nutrient provider.
Aerobic vs. Anaerobic Bacteria
The only real gotcha with organic teas is aeration.You must continually aerate your organic teas.Why?There are two types of bacteria that can develop in you tea : Aerobic and Anaerobic.Anaerobic doesn't need oxygen and is nasty stuff.If you ever smell your tea and it stinks of sewer,don't use it!It means that there's anaerobic activity.A good tea that's rich in aerobic activity will smell like very rich soil (the kind that's teaming with earthworms).Anaerobic teas are bad for more reasons than the fact that they literally smell like shit.They can also manifest E. Coli and introduce things like alcohols,which can kill your plants fast.Good aeration isn't just to supply oxygen to your plant roots.It's also a catalyst that teases the microbes and protozoa out of the compost-or earthworm castings,in the case of vermicompost-without killing them.After the continuous bubbling pushes them out,they consume the nutrients and simple sugars in your tea and multiply in a big way (creating the microlife boom that will,in turn,produce a bust,wherein large numbers of microbes will die their carcasses will nourish your plants' roots).
Thou Shalt Not
There are certain varieties of compost and brewing conditions that should be avoided when brewing a batch of organic tea.
Chlorine: I've said it before and I'll say it again:Never use chlorinated water on organic soil!This obviously includes teas.But if your only source of water is chlorinated,don't freak out.Simply drop an airstone in an uncovered container of the water for 24 hours.Your chlorine problems will be gone.
Compost Leachates: This is just compost squeezed and pressed.It's not very nutrient rich.But it'slack of nutrients isn't the problem (remember,using teas as a vehicle for transporting nutrients to your plants is a supplemental benefit).The problem is anaerobic activity,which can spell death for your plants.
Compost Extracts: While these provide more nutrient value than compost leachates,they still contain anaerobic activity (the big "I'm a dumbass" move in the world of organic teas).
Violent Aeration: Aeration is your friend and the key to a potent tea that's teaming with good bacteria.But too much aeration on the scale that provides an excessive amount of agitation and turbulence to the tea-is a bad thing becuase it will actually beat the microbeasties to death!Be gentle with the teas;remember that they're teaming with microbes!
Ultraviolet/HID/Sunlight: Avoid any high intensity lights or sunlight.Instead,use "normal" house lighting,such as florescent or tungsten.However,avoid any light source near your tea brewer.Regular room lighting is fine,but-as a rule of thumb-dimmer is better.
Mother Mary's Tea Recipes
* The measurments below are for a one gallon tea bubbler.When making teas in smaller containers,simply adjust the recipe or dilute the final tea with water.
* In these recipes,brew the tea with an airstone in a one gallon container for 24 to 48 hours.When you're done brewing,strain it through a nylon stocking (for topical/sprayer applications) or a standard strainer (for normal watering applications) and cut it 50/50 using dechlorinated water.
* Fungi-dominant tea compost should be mixed together and kept very wet for three to seven days prior to brewing.Store it high in a room,near the ceiling and in the dark.The microlife and fungi populations will really bloom if you place a heating pad-set to low-below the container (shoot for 68-75 degrees fahrenheit;20-24 degrees celsius).After three days,it will be visibly booming with fungus (what I call "Santa's Beard").Put this in your tea brewer and bubble it (in place of regular compost).
* Prepare for the container to foam up and bubble over.You should place a tray under your tea bubbler and avoid any electrical or other items that may be damaged or unsafe around the bubbling water.
Vegetative Stage Recipe
* One Gallon Water *: R/O water,rain water,distilled etc. etc.
* One Teaspoon Black Strap Molasses (unsulfured)1-0-5)*:
Be sure to use only the unsulfured variety.This is because sulfur kills microlife,especially fungus (unless it's elemental sulfur in small ratios).
* One Teaspoon liquid Alaskan Fish Fertilizer (5-1-1)*:
Fungus and bacteria both love fish ferts and go nuts reproducing when it's included.
* One Cup Earthworm Castings (vermicompost) or good outdoor compost*:
Vermicompost provides humates,enzymes,protozoa,nematodes,bacteria,fungus ,trace elements,secondary and primary nutrients.
* One Teaspoon Fox Farms Peace Of Mind All Purpose (5-5-5) *:
Food for the microlife that balances the pH of the tea (to about 6.5-7.2).
Flowering Stage Recipes
* One Teaspoon Black Strap Molasses (unsulfured) (1-0-5) *:
An excellent source of potassium during flowering;bacteria prefer these simple sugars,whereas the fungus prefer more complex sugars derived from various organic matter.
* One Teaspoon Fox Farms Peace Of Mind All Purpose (5-5-5) *:
Food for the microlife that balances the pH of the tea (to about 6.5-7.2).
* One Teaspoon High Phosphorous Bat Guano (0-4-0) *:
Fungi love this nutrient and will deliver it to the plant roots.
* One cup Earthworm Castings (vermicompost) or regular compost *:
Good balance of nutrient (trace and secondary).Also a source for microbes and beneficial elements.
* One teaspoon Maxicrop liquid or 1/2 teaspoon water soluble Maxicrop or kelp/seaweed extract (dry) *:
A fungal favorite,this is a key tea ingredient that produces a good ratio of happy fungus.It's also booming with trace elements,some nitrogen,and some potassium.
* 1/4 teaspoon Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *:
Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow on it.Also a prime source for phosphorous,magnesium & sulfur.
Fungus Dominant (halfway through flowering) Recipes
* 1/2 cup Earthworm Castings *:
See above.
* 1/2 cup Mushroom Compost *:
This is fungus waiting to happen.A rich source of fungal spores and dense organic matter that fungi like to eat.
* Two tablespoons Powdered,100% Natural rolled oats *:
Fungi love this nutrient and will deliver it to the plant roots.
* Two teaspoons Kelp Meal *:
I use kelp meal for several reasons.It's organic matter that fungi like to attach themselves to.Fungi love kelp extracts as a primary food source and the rich trace elements and potassium it introduces.
* 1/4 teaspoon Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *:
Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow on it.Also a prime source of phosphorous,magnesium and sulfur.
The earthworm castings,mushroom compost,oatmeal,and kelp meal are first mixed together and made very wet.After fungus has grown on this blend,place it in your tea bubbler for 24 hours with some additional liquid (or water soluble) kelp/seaweed extract and Micronized (soft) rock phosphate.
Organic Tea Party with The Rev.
Suby had asked me to post this here for you all so here it is.
I stopped by my local news stand the other week and picked up Skunk Magazine....Excellent mag IMO.
Anyways what got me to buy it was an article on Organic Teas...I have yet to grow 100% organicly and thought I'd pick this rag up for when I do decide to.
Anyways thought I'd share it with you....
Welcome brothers & sisters.In this installation of Living Organics,we're going to learn about the glory of organic compost teas.But I'm not talking about the Celestial Seasonings sitting on your grocer's shelf.If you're growing in soil and want to learn how to come closer to maximizing the potential of your genetics,read on.You'll learn how to create,administer,and benefit from a largely underutilized technique that has produced some stellar results for me over the years.
You may recall from some of my past articles the nutritional benefits of soil microlife for cannabis plants in fully organic environments.To get a better idea of the advantages of teas,note that a teaspoon of compost contains about one billion beneficial microscopic organisms.However,a teaspoon of organic tea is populated by about four billion microbeasties.Another advantage is that pot plants benefit immediately from teas.Think of teas as organic steroids for your plants.
Not Just For Roots
Teas are not only beneficial for your plant roots,but also for leaves.I like to spray a bit on the leaves in a topical application.The benefit comes from the "coating" of microbes that you create on the leaf when you spray it.This basically muscles out any bad microbes.Be sure to cover atleast 70% of the leaf surface with the tea-spray,ensuring that you get both the tops and bottoms.
Fungus vs. Bacteria
Most teas are bacteria-dominant.However,in flowering,fungus is a tremendous benefit to your plants.I wouldn't stress this if I hadn't seen for myself what a difference the fungi make.Organic plants are all about fungi when flowering.If the fungi aren't present,there's just no way to push your plants to the limits of yield and quality.In fact,fungi-dominant teas are so good that they're the trick to achieving yields that border on those produced in finely tuned hydroponic environments.
Fungus takes longer to grow than bacteria.In the population race,bacteria always outgrows fungi by a large margin.Thus,when making a fungi-dominant tea,you have to give the fungi a head start.
Fungus plays a special role during flowering,delivering things such as phosphorous to the plants roots.They also breakdown secondary mineral nutrients and ammonium nitrogen available to the roots.Bacteria then convert the ammonium nitrogen to nitric nitrogen.Both varieties of nitrogen,ammonium and nitric,can be used by a cannabis plant and help it grow vigorously.
Nitric Nitrogen: Makes the plants grow shorter & wider,with closer node spacing.
Ammonium Nitrogen: Causes some stretch in the plant.
Nutrient Flexible
Teas can provide your plants with more than good bacteria.If your plant are lacking food or you encounter a problem that you need to correct,teas are an excellent vehicle for infusing your soil with nutrients.
Personally,I utilize teas mostly to provide my plants with fungi.How many nutrients you should add to you tea depends on what you already have in your particular soil (and needs of your plants).I pack my soil with tons of long-term nitrogen,phosphorous,and potassium,so I don't have to worry about the tea playing the role of nutrient provider.
Aerobic vs. Anaerobic Bacteria
The only real gotcha with organic teas is aeration.You must continually aerate your organic teas.Why?There are two types of bacteria that can develop in you tea : Aerobic and Anaerobic.Anaerobic doesn't need oxygen and is nasty stuff.If you ever smell your tea and it stinks of sewer,don't use it!It means that there's anaerobic activity.A good tea that's rich in aerobic activity will smell like very rich soil (the kind that's teaming with earthworms).Anaerobic teas are bad for more reasons than the fact that they literally smell like shit.They can also manifest E. Coli and introduce things like alcohols,which can kill your plants fast.Good aeration isn't just to supply oxygen to your plant roots.It's also a catalyst that teases the microbes and protozoa out of the compost-or earthworm castings,in the case of vermicompost-without killing them.After the continuous bubbling pushes them out,they consume the nutrients and simple sugars in your tea and multiply in a big way (creating the microlife boom that will,in turn,produce a bust,wherein large numbers of microbes will die their carcasses will nourish your plants' roots).
Thou Shalt Not
There are certain varieties of compost and brewing conditions that should be avoided when brewing a batch of organic tea.
Chlorine: I've said it before and I'll say it again:Never use chlorinated water on organic soil!This obviously includes teas.But if your only source of water is chlorinated,don't freak out.Simply drop an airstone in an uncovered container of the water for 24 hours.Your chlorine problems will be gone.
Compost Leachates: This is just compost squeezed and pressed.It's not very nutrient rich.But it'slack of nutrients isn't the problem (remember,using teas as a vehicle for transporting nutrients to your plants is a supplemental benefit).The problem is anaerobic activity,which can spell death for your plants.
Compost Extracts: While these provide more nutrient value than compost leachates,they still contain anaerobic activity (the big "I'm a dumbass" move in the world of organic teas).
Violent Aeration: Aeration is your friend and the key to a potent tea that's teaming with good bacteria.But too much aeration on the scale that provides an excessive amount of agitation and turbulence to the tea-is a bad thing becuase it will actually beat the microbeasties to death!Be gentle with the teas;remember that they're teaming with microbes!
Ultraviolet/HID/Sunlight: Avoid any high intensity lights or sunlight.Instead,use "normal" house lighting,such as florescent or tungsten.However,avoid any light source near your tea brewer.Regular room lighting is fine,but-as a rule of thumb-dimmer is better.
Mother Mary's Tea Recipes
* The measurments below are for a one gallon tea bubbler.When making teas in smaller containers,simply adjust the recipe or dilute the final tea with water.
* In these recipes,brew the tea with an airstone in a one gallon container for 24 to 48 hours.When you're done brewing,strain it through a nylon stocking (for topical/sprayer applications) or a standard strainer (for normal watering applications) and cut it 50/50 using dechlorinated water.
* Fungi-dominant tea compost should be mixed together and kept very wet for three to seven days prior to brewing.Store it high in a room,near the ceiling and in the dark.The microlife and fungi populations will really bloom if you place a heating pad-set to low-below the container (shoot for 68-75 degrees fahrenheit;20-24 degrees celsius).After three days,it will be visibly booming with fungus (what I call "Santa's Beard").Put this in your tea brewer and bubble it (in place of regular compost).
* Prepare for the container to foam up and bubble over.You should place a tray under your tea bubbler and avoid any electrical or other items that may be damaged or unsafe around the bubbling water.
Vegetative Stage Recipe
* One Gallon Water *: R/O water,rain water,distilled etc. etc.
* One Teaspoon Black Strap Molasses (unsulfured)1-0-5)*:
Be sure to use only the unsulfured variety.This is because sulfur kills microlife,especially fungus (unless it's elemental sulfur in small ratios).
* One Teaspoon liquid Alaskan Fish Fertilizer (5-1-1)*:
Fungus and bacteria both love fish ferts and go nuts reproducing when it's included.
* One Cup Earthworm Castings (vermicompost) or good outdoor compost*:
Vermicompost provides humates,enzymes,protozoa,nematodes,bacteria,fungus ,trace elements,secondary and primary nutrients.
* One Teaspoon Fox Farms Peace Of Mind All Purpose (5-5-5) *:
Food for the microlife that balances the pH of the tea (to about 6.5-7.2).
Flowering Stage Recipes
* One Teaspoon Black Strap Molasses (unsulfured) (1-0-5) *:
An excellent source of potassium during flowering;bacteria prefer these simple sugars,whereas the fungus prefer more complex sugars derived from various organic matter.
* One Teaspoon Fox Farms Peace Of Mind All Purpose (5-5-5) *:
Food for the microlife that balances the pH of the tea (to about 6.5-7.2).
* One Teaspoon High Phosphorous Bat Guano (0-4-0) *:
Fungi love this nutrient and will deliver it to the plant roots.
* One cup Earthworm Castings (vermicompost) or regular compost *:
Good balance of nutrient (trace and secondary).Also a source for microbes and beneficial elements.
* One teaspoon Maxicrop liquid or 1/2 teaspoon water soluble Maxicrop or kelp/seaweed extract (dry) *:
A fungal favorite,this is a key tea ingredient that produces a good ratio of happy fungus.It's also booming with trace elements,some nitrogen,and some potassium.
* 1/4 teaspoon Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *:
Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow on it.Also a prime source for phosphorous,magnesium & sulfur.
Fungus Dominant (halfway through flowering) Recipes
* 1/2 cup Earthworm Castings *:
See above.
* 1/2 cup Mushroom Compost *:
This is fungus waiting to happen.A rich source of fungal spores and dense organic matter that fungi like to eat.
* Two tablespoons Powdered,100% Natural rolled oats *:
Fungi love this nutrient and will deliver it to the plant roots.
* Two teaspoons Kelp Meal *:
I use kelp meal for several reasons.It's organic matter that fungi like to attach themselves to.Fungi love kelp extracts as a primary food source and the rich trace elements and potassium it introduces.
* 1/4 teaspoon Micronized (soft) Rock Phosphate *:
Fungus attach to the rock phosphate and grow on it.Also a prime source of phosphorous,magnesium and sulfur.
The earthworm castings,mushroom compost,oatmeal,and kelp meal are first mixed together and made very wet.After fungus has grown on this blend,place it in your tea bubbler for 24 hours with some additional liquid (or water soluble) kelp/seaweed extract and Micronized (soft) rock phosphate.
Last edited:
we need some more info in here.
some on companion planting. also says whats in the plants so you could make teas or compost them as well.
http://www.ghorganics.com/page2.html
lots of pest detterants and beneficial insect attracting plants too.
edit ill just add more to this post
http://www.ghorganics.com/page32.html
some on companion planting. also says whats in the plants so you could make teas or compost them as well.
http://www.ghorganics.com/page2.html
lots of pest detterants and beneficial insect attracting plants too.
edit ill just add more to this post
http://www.ghorganics.com/page32.html
Last edited:
Jnugg thanks for posting that here as per my request.
Peeps I like this whole fungal tea idea, I generally just brew for N P K and soil biology but targeting fungal count for flowering sounds like a brilliant idea.
I have been googling this for a bit so I'll have so links and quotes to go deeper into this idea, if anyone cares to share some info on fungal tea in particualr
Suby
Peeps I like this whole fungal tea idea, I generally just brew for N P K and soil biology but targeting fungal count for flowering sounds like a brilliant idea.
I have been googling this for a bit so I'll have so links and quotes to go deeper into this idea, if anyone cares to share some info on fungal tea in particualr
Suby
V
vonforne
Well Suby after reading up a bit I found that I have been brewing a sort of fungal tea all along but using at vegetative stage. I do brew teas with Hydrolyzed fish and liquid humic acid. I also have brewed teas with Mushroom compost and cow manure that have worked very well also.
Here is an ecostudies link that has some good basic information.
http://www.ecostudies.org/compost_tea.pdf
V
Here is an ecostudies link that has some good basic information.
http://www.ecostudies.org/compost_tea.pdf
V
G
Guest
buttcrack said:I just mixed up my soil innuculated it with a tea, and since i did'nt have any container to put it in after i mixed it i just put it in garbage bags, this was last week i just opened the bag today and notice a fowl stench! and that tells me anarobic bacteria got in it? cuzz thats the same smell i got from leaving a old brewed tea out with no air pump on, whut do i do? i'm guessing this is really bad
I took a smell at my soil today and it has that earthly smell now. I'm thinking the anarobic bacteria have died off? is it safe to say it's once more on it's way to start cooking up.
V
vonforne
buttcrack said:
You are correct buttcrack. See, I told ya.
Brother Von would not steer ya wrong.V
G
Guest
Those dam anarobic beastys! ,i can picture them in the soil gasping lik they can't breath like in that movie, total recall when arnald falls and breaks his space helment and his eys start to pop outa' his eye sockets
good looking out brotha Von!
good looking out brotha Von!
R
Relik
Hi folks!
Hi Suby! I found this part of your previous post was worth commenting... More browns (Carbon) for fungi, more greens (Nitrogen) for bacteria... If I remember correctly, in the symbiosis between mycorhizae and plant roots, there is an exchange of material between both organisms (they both benefit from each other). Mycorhizae bring nutrients to the plant, but what does the plant bring to mycorhizae? Carbon! Should have ringed my bell earlier!Now this brings a few questions for me: first, what kind of fungi would potentially grow in the compost pile when we make it a fungal compost? In other words, how can we make sure that we are promoting the development of the fungi we need? Or maybe we don't need a specific kind of fungi, as many kinds are mycorhizae? Of course you can always add some granular mycos into the compost pile, but if they could be promoted instead of being added to the compost, that would be better, IMHO.
Also, now I'm wondering what would the optimal C:N ratio be for a well balanced compost, in terms of bacteria and fungi. There must be a short interval in this ratio which results in a balance, but wouldn't it be better to promote a fungal compost and then innoculate it with bacteria just before using it in a soil mix (just as you would innoculate a batch of soil that's gonna be cooking)? From what I understand the bacteria are already present in the compost, this re-innoculation would provide a kick to their population, at least that's what I'm thinking...
Peace
ThaiPhoon
Active member
Well guys, that info on the teas is priceless! thanks so much for posting that! I will have to add that information to the OFC project. I have been busy lately and havent had much time for editing. I should have a bit more time to finish that project off in the coming weeks.
Peace
Peace
V
vonforne
Suby, when I keep my coffee grounds under the sink I have noticed this fungus growing but would have never thought of top dressing with it. Looks like I have another additive for my kids to try out.
It all sounds great.
Great post Subs.
Thai, you have your work cut out for you to condense this thread. This could be a book when it is done.
Subys Organic Growing - Stoner Style.
V
It all sounds great.
Great post Subs.
Thai, you have your work cut out for you to condense this thread. This could be a book when it is done.
Subys Organic Growing - Stoner Style.
V
Yeah that's what I love about organics, despite not needing to know exactly how it wworks you can benefit from it.
I love that I'm always learning more and more about how to perfect my craft, I'll be a fucking pro one day no doubt lol.:headbang
Thai man you have your work cut out for you, if it's cool with you I'd like to reorganize that material and turn it into a libary like thread with proper headinsg and maybe eventually we can tie evrything together and get a book going.
I've read all Cervanted books and others, too numerous to name but on the whole most books are half-assed with pisspoor explanations as to why we do things and not just the how, it would be for both beginners and contain alot of extra material like cloning, lighting, but cover only organics on a small scale.
I will be trying out this fungal tea idea in my current set, the fridge is almost completed, it has a 4" elicient of a solid state dimmer, 2 4" holes for passive intake at the bottom, it runs a 250W MH and I am flowering in 20gallon Rubbermaid tubs full of my original mix to which I've added 30% coco choir peat to an I went heavier on the castings and dropped perlite to 20% due to the coco.
It's been awhile since I've grown, I am longing to get back to it, this fridge grow will be setup at a close friends, so all the rewards but none of the risks.
:
Suby
I love that I'm always learning more and more about how to perfect my craft, I'll be a fucking pro one day no doubt lol.:headbang
Thai man you have your work cut out for you, if it's cool with you I'd like to reorganize that material and turn it into a libary like thread with proper headinsg and maybe eventually we can tie evrything together and get a book going.
I've read all Cervanted books and others, too numerous to name but on the whole most books are half-assed with pisspoor explanations as to why we do things and not just the how, it would be for both beginners and contain alot of extra material like cloning, lighting, but cover only organics on a small scale.
I will be trying out this fungal tea idea in my current set, the fridge is almost completed, it has a 4" elicient of a solid state dimmer, 2 4" holes for passive intake at the bottom, it runs a 250W MH and I am flowering in 20gallon Rubbermaid tubs full of my original mix to which I've added 30% coco choir peat to an I went heavier on the castings and dropped perlite to 20% due to the coco.
It's been awhile since I've grown, I am longing to get back to it, this fridge grow will be setup at a close friends, so all the rewards but none of the risks.
: Suby
Some awesome info here lately. Now that I know that my laziness of leaving coffee grounds in filters might pay off, I'm going to make some fungus dressings, etc. I've been having a blast with the different teas lately, and learned a whole lot.
I do have one question though. I like to play around with different things, and I just got ANs Connoisseur. Yea yea, take your pot shots at me. So anyways, I keep wondering how this will affect the microherd. I plan on using it from week 2 and beyond of flower. The first few weeks they will be inoculated with microbe guano teas and fungus, but I don't want to kill off the herd when I start using the Conny. Even at half or quarter stregth, do you think that will happen?
Also, does it make sense for a company like AN to market Pirahna, Tarantula, etc, when people are going to use synthetic ferts and just kill off everything??
(please spare the AN hatred, I know how many people feel, keep it civil)
I will run some organic side by side with the conny for a test. I want to find a balance between killing of the herd and using this stuff.
I do have one question though. I like to play around with different things, and I just got ANs Connoisseur. Yea yea, take your pot shots at me. So anyways, I keep wondering how this will affect the microherd. I plan on using it from week 2 and beyond of flower. The first few weeks they will be inoculated with microbe guano teas and fungus, but I don't want to kill off the herd when I start using the Conny. Even at half or quarter stregth, do you think that will happen?
Also, does it make sense for a company like AN to market Pirahna, Tarantula, etc, when people are going to use synthetic ferts and just kill off everything??
(please spare the AN hatred, I know how many people feel, keep it civil)
I will run some organic side by side with the conny for a test. I want to find a balance between killing of the herd and using this stuff.
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