They all use the same Aluminum.. The hotter the plates the softer the Aluminum will get.
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Hi fellow dabbers!
I have finished my Rosin Press yesterday. I am using 9*9*4cm 7075 Aluminium Plates and 2*170W 220V cartridge heaters per plate. The temperature is read by a K-Type thermocouple.
I am using an XMT7100 PID-controller.
My problem is that with the autotuned PID values (P=1,8/D=520/I=130) the plates take about 30 minutes to heat up to 100°C. When I use the PID values, I use for my Enail (P=3,6/I=42/D=8), the plates only take about 3 minutes to heat up, but overshoot to about 160°C.
When using the autotuned values, the heater cartridges get hot, when using the Enail values, the cartridges glow orange hot.
I really love to tinker and figure stuff out by myself, but this PID stuff is a little over my dabbed out head (the endproduct is nervertheless very mind altering)^^
Could someone please help me figure out more suitable PID values?
So that I won't have to wait for 30minutes on initial heat up, but also won't have 50°C overshoot and wait 30 minutes for the plates to cool down to 100°C again. Also I have read that glowing orange hot shortens the lifespan of the heater cartridge, which i would like to avoid.
I hope someone of you guys could help me out!
Dabs&Terps
Dabtinker
I have finished my Rosin Press yesterday. I am using 9*9*4cm 7075 Aluminium Plates and 2*170W 220V cartridge heaters per plate. The temperature is read by a K-Type thermocouple.
I am using an XMT7100 PID-controller.
My problem is that with the autotuned PID values (P=1,8/D=520/I=130) the plates take about 30 minutes to heat up to 100°C. When I use the PID values, I use for my Enail (P=3,6/I=42/D=8), the plates only take about 3 minutes to heat up, but overshoot to about 160°C.
When using the autotuned values, the heater cartridges get hot, when using the Enail values, the cartridges glow orange hot.
I really love to tinker and figure stuff out by myself, but this PID stuff is a little over my dabbed out head (the endproduct is nervertheless very mind altering)^^
Could someone please help me figure out more suitable PID values?
So that I won't have to wait for 30minutes on initial heat up, but also won't have 50°C overshoot and wait 30 minutes for the plates to cool down to 100°C again. Also I have read that glowing orange hot shortens the lifespan of the heater cartridge, which i would like to avoid.
I hope someone of you guys could help me out!
Dabs&Terps
Dabtinker
brown_thumb
Active member
I tried the vulcanizer for the first time two days ago. It makes enough pressure to rip the parchment paper to shreds (dried/cured weed) so it's more pressure than I can use. It worked perfectly but the parchment paper absorbed some of the rosin so I need to try a different brand.
The point is, this ugly old used vulcanizer that cost $124 delivered is better than I need to make rosin. Since only I will be using it, this cheap old POS vulcanizer with 10x15cm dual heated plates works just fine.
The point is, this ugly old used vulcanizer that cost $124 delivered is better than I need to make rosin. Since only I will be using it, this cheap old POS vulcanizer with 10x15cm dual heated plates works just fine.
P=1,8/I=520/D=130...very heavy stuff this rosin
Did you prepress the buds?
I find that with prepressed material it is much harder to rip the parchment while pressing.
brown_thumb
Active member
I don't know what you mean by "prepress". I pressed gradually... just barely smashing the buds at first, then a little more pressure, then a little more. The only time I ripped the parchment paper is when I turned the pressure wheel as hard as I could. The yields seemed to be as good as any I've seem in videos regardless of cost of the press. Of course, I'm not pressing a full ounce at one time like some people do.
It means compessing the material into final shape before actual pressing.
I do 1g presses and I find that it squishes much more evenly and rips the parchment less often if I do a puck like prepress with my hand.
People with more material use machined metal frames which put out little flat weed bricks
ReikoX
Knight of the BlackSvn
I had the same issues, pre-pressing does help.This is my pre-press.
I don't like the PTFE oil slick as it deforms easily and I find it hard to get the product off. I liked the TFX sheets (PTFE coated nylon), but also found it difficult to get the product off. What I have been doing with great success is using the parchment with the TFX on the outside. It gives the parchment extra strength, but the product stays on the parchment. If the parchment does rip, the rosin is on the TFX, not the plates. You can sort of see it in the picture above. The brown square is the TFX and you can sort of see the parchment folded inside that.
brown_thumb
Active member
Pre-pressing...
I did compress the buds a bit... and smashed them slowly. So I guess that qualifies for pre-pressing.
I did compress the buds a bit... and smashed them slowly. So I guess that qualifies for pre-pressing.
you wanna make your buds as close to as dense as hash as you can before pressing. As dense as possible, either in a round puck or snake shape. or I've seen rectangles to; kind of like pre-flattened snakes.
brown_thumb
Active member
Okay, I'll do that next time. I need to buy better parchment paper first.
Get reynolds premium if its there.
brown_thumb
Active member
The local Walmart and grocery store sell Reynolds brand. At the moment, I can only assume they carry Reynolds 'Premium'.
Wanna see my balls?
Wanna see my balls?
Rosin balls you perverts, lol
Wanna see my balls?
Hey gang, I have something to toss out for debate (if you feel like it). I'll be the devil's advocate. Give me your best shot.
Who has the math for converting force to pressure? I found a converter here.. https://www.sensorsone.com/force-and-area-to-pressure-calculator/
Round plates vs square.
I use round. I figure it's better to set the puck in the center (I also use round pucks) and let it squeeze out to all directions vs the clamshell method that I used to use (see my earlier posts of rock and roll rosin machine LMAO) where the top plate came down at an angle and squeezed the rosin forward like a hinged clamshell.
Clamping 2 parallel square plates flat against each other (as all rosin machines I have seen do) seems to the the LEAST efficient. Almost insane. absolutely the WORST way any designer could have chosen.
I'm all theory here so anyone who wants to present a little real evidence from use, I would love to hear it.
I bring this up only because something else came up in another forum and it was yet another reason to go round instead of square. It was this force converter I linked above.
Based on this, using 3" round plates with a 6 ton jack results in approx 1700 psi vs using 3" square plates resulting in approx 1300 psi. All that force on that corner area, totally wasted.
It seems insane that all the rosin machine makers chose square plates over round. Same thing with square pucks vs round.
Tossing this out for debate.
Who has the math for converting force to pressure? I found a converter here.. https://www.sensorsone.com/force-and-area-to-pressure-calculator/
Round plates vs square.
I use round. I figure it's better to set the puck in the center (I also use round pucks) and let it squeeze out to all directions vs the clamshell method that I used to use (see my earlier posts of rock and roll rosin machine LMAO) where the top plate came down at an angle and squeezed the rosin forward like a hinged clamshell.
Clamping 2 parallel square plates flat against each other (as all rosin machines I have seen do) seems to the the LEAST efficient. Almost insane. absolutely the WORST way any designer could have chosen.
I'm all theory here so anyone who wants to present a little real evidence from use, I would love to hear it.
I bring this up only because something else came up in another forum and it was yet another reason to go round instead of square. It was this force converter I linked above.
Based on this, using 3" round plates with a 6 ton jack results in approx 1700 psi vs using 3" square plates resulting in approx 1300 psi. All that force on that corner area, totally wasted.
It seems insane that all the rosin machine makers chose square plates over round. Same thing with square pucks vs round.
Tossing this out for debate.
I do directional flow driptech, so round would be worthless...
That's the only one that ever made sense to me. That's the one sunfire was promoting a while back, wasn't it. The one that tilts on it's side?
That is an incredible design.
OK, you don't get to debate. Get out of here. LMAO j/k
Anyone else want to bitch slap me? LMAO
That is an incredible design.
OK, you don't get to debate. Get out of here. LMAO j/k
Anyone else want to bitch slap me? LMAO
Cal pressure on plates is done like this .
Change press ton to PSI.. press tonx2000=?
Multiply surface plate size or rosin bag size.. 3x5 plate=15 bag size 2x2=4
Divide PSI by surface area. 10000/15=666 PSI for 3x5 plate.10000/4=2500psi for 2x2 rosin bag.
Simple way is
6 ton = 12000 psi
plate size 3x3=9
6x2000/9=1333 psi for a 3x3 plate
Change press ton to PSI.. press tonx2000=?
Multiply surface plate size or rosin bag size.. 3x5 plate=15 bag size 2x2=4
Divide PSI by surface area. 10000/15=666 PSI for 3x5 plate.10000/4=2500psi for 2x2 rosin bag.
Simple way is
6 ton = 12000 psi
plate size 3x3=9
6x2000/9=1333 psi for a 3x3 plate
Ringo didn't mean to bitch slap you, and yes it is the method Sunfire is using...
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Jack's Classic Tomato Feed - 12-15-30, and other stuff- Latest: Old Uncle Ben
Latest posts
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Jack's Classic Tomato Feed - 12-15-30, and other stuff
- Latest: Old Uncle Ben
