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Gr33nSanta
same here, I kept thinking, what are they talking about!! lol mine is never on for more than an hour or 2.
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same here, I kept thinking, what are they talking about!! lol mine is never on for more than an hour or 2.
ChasingGreen
Member
I've left mine on for 12+ hours by accident. It seems like all that might be happening is the jack is getting "loose" as in, I need to take it off and purge the air and it'll be fine? It feels like maybe I can only get 10 tons instead of 12 tons if that makes sense. Still way more than I need, so I haven't messed with it.
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Gr33nSanta
I dont know about doing the maintenance on them, I think they are pretty simple, when it stops working release pressure so that the jack is in resting position, fill with hydraulic fluids and that's it. Do I get this right? Mine leaks a little bit but so little I ve only cleaned the cup on my low temp plates twice.
If you are dabbing and pressing, or just absent minded, some find it helpful to put the controller on a timer.
After about 90 minutes I have to shut down and cool the press. One more 90 minute cycle is all I get. The next lasts about 45 before the ram heats quickly and it becomes difficult to maintain a stable pressure.
It is my understanding elevated fluid temperature will cause seals to fail sooner. I keep meaning to find a temperature probe for high pressure but it is far down on the list of wants.
Perhaps there is a preexisting issue with a seal and I am losing pressure stability prematurely.
I don't press too often but my spare time is spotty. I would rather get a lump of material done all at once than give excuses on backlogged side work. Definitely not commercial, I just process for others locally.
After about 90 minutes I have to shut down and cool the press. One more 90 minute cycle is all I get. The next lasts about 45 before the ram heats quickly and it becomes difficult to maintain a stable pressure.
It is my understanding elevated fluid temperature will cause seals to fail sooner. I keep meaning to find a temperature probe for high pressure but it is far down on the list of wants.
Perhaps there is a preexisting issue with a seal and I am losing pressure stability prematurely.
I don't press too often but my spare time is spotty. I would rather get a lump of material done all at once than give excuses on backlogged side work. Definitely not commercial, I just process for others locally.
ChasingGreen
Member
Mine doesn't leak, but perhaps that's what they mean when the seals go bad due to heat, they expand and leak?
Now tell me more about those cups you've cleaned oil off? Whaaaa?
I have to clean my stainless plates every press, as oil goes through the parchment every time, but not much.
ChasingGreen
Member
What do you mean it becomes hard to maintain a stable pressure? You mean it won't hold 8 tons once you reach it for example, and it starts to loosen up if you just leave it at load?
I think it depends on the design of your press and plates. With the HF presses, the ram itself is not part of the hydraulic jack...With a dake press, the ram IS part of the jack and is in direct contact with your plates. The dake jack is also upside down, which would make it easier for hydraulic fluid to leak down the ram from gravity, where as the Harbor freight press the jack is right side up.
With my caged low temp plates, the only time the ram will be touching the plates is the 1-2minutes during a press. I did have to go through some hassles to get my press shipped to Hawaii, so I'd like to take some steps to ensure that it will last me a long time.
Levi at low temp says it is due to the heat thinning the hydraulic fluid and allowing it to bypass the seals.
Yup.
Purging air and topping up the oil has helped but by margins.
The press is similar to the Dake but looks to be lower quality. The ram is above the plates and has constant contact. As time goes on I have to "top up" pressure ever more often. It usually starts around 60 minutes after I turn it on. I prep enough material to keep me busy until I turn it off, throw a fan in front and clean sheets/prep the next round.
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Gr33nSanta
mine are not blue Ive got plain aluminum but look at the white ''cup'' on top, I think the ram is 1 and half inch and the cup just over 2 inches, so any excess fluids coming off the press puddles up in there, but like I said ive only had to clean twice with a qtip and a bit of toilet paper, so it does not leak that much, yet ... If I were you Id wrap something around last thing you want to contaminate your rosin with is hydraulic fluids me think...
https://www.lowtemp-plates.com/products/red-anodize-4x7-lowtemp-rosin-plate-kit
https://www.lowtemp-plates.com/products/red-anodize-4x7-lowtemp-rosin-plate-kit
I measured the heat on my plates the other day using a multimeter and the temps seemed to be way off from the controller readout.
Bottom plate was slightly under and the top plate was about 20 degrees hotter than the temp display. Not sure if keeping the plates closed during warmup will even the temps out more.
I dont have a second device to cross-reference the temps but I did some small presses at 65c on the controller and the results were pretty nice and light colored.
This is south fork seeds West Coast Dog x Chem4bc3
Bottom plate was slightly under and the top plate was about 20 degrees hotter than the temp display. Not sure if keeping the plates closed during warmup will even the temps out more.
I dont have a second device to cross-reference the temps but I did some small presses at 65c on the controller and the results were pretty nice and light colored.
This is south fork seeds West Coast Dog x Chem4bc3
Attachments
For anyone thats been making rosin for a while...what produces your most flavorful results?
Flowers/Sift/Ice Wax/Dry Ice Hash/Etc.
Trim Bin sift has produced the most stable results for me, but not as flavorful as flower but the end product looks like shatter.
I'm tempted to try making dry ice hash and pressing but I have zero experience with dry ice technique and what it produces...I know it can produce a lot of plant contaminant but seems like it yields pretty well.
Flowers/Sift/Ice Wax/Dry Ice Hash/Etc.
Trim Bin sift has produced the most stable results for me, but not as flavorful as flower but the end product looks like shatter.
I'm tempted to try making dry ice hash and pressing but I have zero experience with dry ice technique and what it produces...I know it can produce a lot of plant contaminant but seems like it yields pretty well.
PDX Dopesmoker
Active member
I dewaxed some rosin, is this shameful?
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Gr33nSanta
how does one go about dewaxing rosin? I went through my collection today, to reorganize it and take a good look at everything. most of the rosin I made in the last few months hasnt turned buttery, most is exactly how it was after pressing. I couldnt resist dabbing too many dabs today as well. I feel nice.
to answer kalopatchkid, the very best rosin would probably come fresh frozen, but not everyone can do it, second best would be drysift rosin, however, in my climate dry sift is really hard to make. So in my context, the highest quality I make comes from flower rosin, second best is hash rosin.
to answer kalopatchkid, the very best rosin would probably come fresh frozen, but not everyone can do it, second best would be drysift rosin, however, in my climate dry sift is really hard to make. So in my context, the highest quality I make comes from flower rosin, second best is hash rosin.
PDX Dopesmoker
Active member
I dissolved rosin in Everclear and left it in a deep freeze for a few days then filtered it (still in the deep freeze) before recovering the hash from the Everclear.
As far as flavorful results go, good sift seems to beat trimmed flower by a noticeable amount flavorwise, however the quality of starting material itself seems more important. With that in mind, I've found that flower rosin from really well grown plants is better than high purity sift rosin from lesser plants or even just lesser cuts of bud from the same plant. I haven't been willing to sacrifice any of my small and dwindling supply of 6 star fresh frozen hash for rosin experiments yet, but I can pretty much guarantee that material would beat all but it's dry sifted equivalent for flavor.
As far as flavorful results go, good sift seems to beat trimmed flower by a noticeable amount flavorwise, however the quality of starting material itself seems more important. With that in mind, I've found that flower rosin from really well grown plants is better than high purity sift rosin from lesser plants or even just lesser cuts of bud from the same plant. I haven't been willing to sacrifice any of my small and dwindling supply of 6 star fresh frozen hash for rosin experiments yet, but I can pretty much guarantee that material would beat all but it's dry sifted equivalent for flavor.
Just got my rosin setup running. 10 ton hydraulic press and 3x5 plates.
So far not having much luck with yields. Only pressing small amounts (2g flower at a time). I tried a bunch of different techniques. Squishing an untouched bud, breaking up and pre-pressing pucks of flower. Different temperatures, pressures and pressing times.
The best yield I was able to get was about 3%, which is not ideal lol.
I see a lot of people are having success with using micron bags, but I am not sure if it's really going to make a dramatic difference.
I think the main issues may be the age/dryness of my flower (on a 1-10 scale of sticky to bone dry it's probably a 7.5). Also I am using unbleached (brown) parchment paper. I also see a lot of people prefer the more white, shiny silicone treated parchment paper. There seems to be a lot of oil soaking into the parchment on my presses.
Any tips for my circumstances?
Also, where is the best place to get 90 or 100 micron rosin bags and not pay close to $1/bag. That seems really expensive for a non-reusabe bag.
Thanks!
So far not having much luck with yields. Only pressing small amounts (2g flower at a time). I tried a bunch of different techniques. Squishing an untouched bud, breaking up and pre-pressing pucks of flower. Different temperatures, pressures and pressing times.
The best yield I was able to get was about 3%, which is not ideal lol.
I see a lot of people are having success with using micron bags, but I am not sure if it's really going to make a dramatic difference.
I think the main issues may be the age/dryness of my flower (on a 1-10 scale of sticky to bone dry it's probably a 7.5). Also I am using unbleached (brown) parchment paper. I also see a lot of people prefer the more white, shiny silicone treated parchment paper. There seems to be a lot of oil soaking into the parchment on my presses.
Any tips for my circumstances?
Also, where is the best place to get 90 or 100 micron rosin bags and not pay close to $1/bag. That seems really expensive for a non-reusabe bag.
Thanks!
People are seeing huge yield spikes (both negative and positive) with different moisture levels, both within the material being pressed and the environment within.
Boveda 62% pack/s is a good way to get going.
bone dry is no good. That's pretty common knowledge. Maybe read a bunch of this thread and learn even more than your questions answered would provide.. 
Flowers, just dried for 3-4 days after chop is my preferred squishee.
