I put some weed in an unbleached coffee filter before I squished it
I had to cool it to work with it
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I put some weed in an unbleached coffee filter before I squished it
I had to cool it to work with it
mmm haze dabs are such a treat
Lmfao I was putting up all the thca and terpene content info in relation to saturation points, nucleation, precipitation, and crystallization. Not to sound like an asshole but few other people truly understand the concepts and on FB there so many hater ass trolls that still cling to bho hype misinformation. To them if it's not "shatter" its not good. No one seems to care about the analytical showing the budder has more thca and less decarb...
I don't male main posts in that group anymore cause of the trolls. So for me to go back and piece together everything I put up in comments would be crazy lol but there was a recent post that in whichico graeme gave his usual info links (although some are very basic and don't get carry through all the details) and I chimed in with a recap of the concepts. Lemme go find it and I will link it.
https://m.facebook.com/groups/96037...663&ref=m_notif¬if_t=group_comment_mention
If your not in the group just request to join you should be approved quickly but don't make me provide all of graeme's links and have to retype everything I said. And I guess if your smart you'll figure out my name so don't send me hate mail hahahaha!
If your not in the group just request to join you should be approved quickly but don't make me provide all of graeme's links and have to retype everything I said. And I guess if your smart you'll figure out my name so don't send me hate mail hahahaha!
If yall wanna see some shit that shows what proper equipment and tech can do, as well as a little hash porn...
https://www.instagram.com/p/BJ8e0fxgs_4/
Then from there the sample patty in the end we applied our unique tempering process we have been developing that is based off the chemistry and physics involved with the precipitation and mild crystallization. Attached is the pic of that patty after tempering which proves the theory true and also we have been doing the tempering for a while now and pretty much have it dialed in. High thca content and terps is essential.
If your stuff budders up super fast it's probably because of a high mono terp and other lighter terp concentration that will evaporate quickly which leads to dropping the saturation point of the material. Chemically speaking this is not a bad thing, it's a great thing and means you had decent starting material.
This is not bho bro science promulgated hype meant only to sell products. Some samples I've had even began precipitation of thca in the god damn fridge, I literally could not stop it! Here I will also attach analytical results of a pull and snap consistency and a budder consistency comparison of the same exact material just handled in different ways with different tech back when I was trying to figure all this stuff out. Correction, I actually have analytical comparisons with two different materials both subjected to these earlier tests I was performing. Note the thca content difference and also the amount of regular thc which is decarbed thca. The tahoe og one was not much different in the decarb department but the blue dream was. M.S stood for mystery substance as originally myself and others believed it was waxes and it turned out to be high thca content, who knew hahahaha!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BJ8e0fxgs_4/
Then from there the sample patty in the end we applied our unique tempering process we have been developing that is based off the chemistry and physics involved with the precipitation and mild crystallization. Attached is the pic of that patty after tempering which proves the theory true and also we have been doing the tempering for a while now and pretty much have it dialed in. High thca content and terps is essential.
If your stuff budders up super fast it's probably because of a high mono terp and other lighter terp concentration that will evaporate quickly which leads to dropping the saturation point of the material. Chemically speaking this is not a bad thing, it's a great thing and means you had decent starting material.
This is not bho bro science promulgated hype meant only to sell products. Some samples I've had even began precipitation of thca in the god damn fridge, I literally could not stop it! Here I will also attach analytical results of a pull and snap consistency and a budder consistency comparison of the same exact material just handled in different ways with different tech back when I was trying to figure all this stuff out. Correction, I actually have analytical comparisons with two different materials both subjected to these earlier tests I was performing. Note the thca content difference and also the amount of regular thc which is decarbed thca. The tahoe og one was not much different in the decarb department but the blue dream was. M.S stood for mystery substance as originally myself and others believed it was waxes and it turned out to be high thca content, who knew hahahaha!
Attachments
Naw you dont get it bro; some people not on facebook would appreciate the info put here, but links to facebook are useless.
Lmfao damn near two years later and you still got the spice ahhahaha!
Well, in my defense, if one was serious about knowledge they'd take it wherever they can get it. But, moving along. I can only copy and paste what I wrote from the edit screen. Soooooo this is a really really condensed brief and recap...
Well as usual graeme provided some good reading to get ones head wrapped around it.
Older material will have more thc and less thca and terpenes.
It's hard to know what one person says is low temp. I'm not trying to talk shit, but I believe few people have an actual good and tight control of SURFACE temps with proper high quality equipment. Reading with a quality IR gun over purple masking tape firmly pressed on the platen works pretty good.
Moisture and terps for sure will make for a sap and it will stay a sap until the water and some terps come out.
Why super fresh flower presses usually budder is because of the high amount of thca.
Even if analytical equipment can detect thca, it may still be unstable thca. Thca begins to lose stability quickly, even at sub zero temps.
I make pull and snap flower rosin all the time. 220F, 60%rh flowers in a room at 60F, patty out the rosin and quickly get into a vac oven. 95F full vac flip every 30 minutes for 2 hours. For sure burns off some terps but will get it there and gets out the water. I think being under vacuum keeps the thca from precipitating aS the moisture and terps are purged which would otherwise drop the saturation point leading to precipitation. I always use the analogy of making rock candy to try to explain the concepts in simple terms although it doesn't correlate perfectly.
Now here's the weird part, it seems like as far as the solution is concerned, which the thca drops out of (precipitates), water actually stabilizes the solution in a homogenous fashion that doesn't allow for the precipitation and crystallization. I have no idea about the chemistry here its just from a year and a half of observations and making dozens of units of rosin. So I can let a flower rosin patty sit in the fridge for weeks before a quick vac purge with no buddering at all.
Now my kief, I dry tumble, and keep it bone dry. If it's fresh and treated properly I literally can't stop it from buddering up. I've had precipitation start with material even in the fridge, it's kind of amazing.
If you want a shatter like product. Rip the press at 240F. Let the material warm up nice and good before pressing. It will for sure be less terpy and have that decarbed thc taste however.
Rosin is a complete different form of extraction than using a cls with any solvent. It's almost like trying to compare iwe to dry sift. If done proper the end products can look very similar but none the less the process is different.
Because of the differenCE in process, and the lack of a rapidly evapping abundance of solvents, the physics could be different as far as the budder is concerned. All my stuff that budders up always has high thca and terpene content and fairly low thc content. From all my analytical results I feel like I can safely say if you get around 15% thc it won't budder. Really high thca and terpene content seems like you won't be able to stop it from buddering up.
I know people will contest this and try to use other people's analytical results as evidence in their arguments. All I can say is I know what my experience and thousands of dollars of analytical has showed me and this is all I can speak for. Please do take it all with a very large grain of salt.
Essentially. Saturation points control precipitation around which (nucleation, formation of a nucleus, the sand in the pearly, the dust in the rain drop) crystallization occurs. Think of the string, heated water, and sugar when making rock candy. The temps drops and so does the saturation point cause the sugar to precipitate and crystallize. Evaporation can also drop saturation points.
thanks for sharing sunfire!
how would you describe the mechanisms in action when otherwise stable (2--3 weeks at room temp) pull and snap begins to sugar after exposure to mild heat (in your pocket or glovebox)?
how would you describe the mechanisms in action when otherwise stable (2--3 weeks at room temp) pull and snap begins to sugar after exposure to mild heat (in your pocket or glovebox)?
Sounds like the vac is pulling terps that are stable in the fridge. Just like I'd describe headys question, evaporation.
I like and use the sugar crystals on a string from school example as well. IME evap is the main driver in cannabis oils to crystallize in normal circumstances, lowering temps to reduce saturation levels will induce it but it makes it very difficult to preserve any results. With heat(even glovebox or pocket) we are evaporating solvents(terps) so as to cause the saturation levels to become so high(super saturated) that nucleation can take place more readily, which can be even more expounded and potentiated by agitation as well(pocket rustling, or car shakin).
It would be interesting if water or moisture did somehow stabilize things somehow, but I believe the opposite is more likely.
Also regarding more heat more shatter, I agree, Ive had to purge terpy bho at 150f to get it to shatter, fuck that shit, turn super nice terpy oil into bland shatter just cause the marketing of if it dont shatter it dont matter mantra bull shit, ive been counter that with, shatter is shit, mantra.
Any tips for making Glycerin tincture from pressed rosin patties?
My plan is to just use enough glycerin to cover the patties, and heat for few minutes in boiling water (double boiler), then allow to cool, and repeat a half dozen times or so.
Is there anything wrong with this? I'm most concerned with taste with the tincture, however don't want to wait months for a cold brew.
My plan is to just use enough glycerin to cover the patties, and heat for few minutes in boiling water (double boiler), then allow to cool, and repeat a half dozen times or so.
Is there anything wrong with this? I'm most concerned with taste with the tincture, however don't want to wait months for a cold brew.
Has anyone pressed older slightly oxidized buds. My partner passed me some bullshit, I wondered why he wanted to meet when he usually comes and has a few beers.
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Posting this for future reference and to keep this kind of info in one place
Much thanks to lapides for basically making the first one and getting the plates made upa nd putting in all the sweat equity to figure out how to work it efficiently
these are identical to the parts I used for my build, for reference, can be scaled (I can add more detail on this)
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html - got mine for 20% off
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HVA23CK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
you will need 2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SA5FA4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
you will need 4, size reliant on plate size ( I used these for a 4" plate set)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-4-8-606...614187?hash=item43d2648e2b:g:3KgAAOSwyXFUYXGj
this is all you need to make 2 4" plates minus the collar. You will still need to cut and drill it or pay someone to do it
you also need to get some aluminum for a collar and it needs to be welded to the top plate. you might be able to find an adapter. something like this.
http://centralparts.com/ProductDetails3836.aspx
You can buy a piece of aluminum pipe but you only need a couple inches of pipe that is about 3" (a bit bigger than the press mount) inner diameter with a thick enough wall dimension (I used 1/2 inch). The welder who cut the plates, drilled the holes for the cartridges and heat sensor and welded the collar on had scrap aluminum pipe.
Much thanks to lapides for basically making the first one and getting the plates made upa nd putting in all the sweat equity to figure out how to work it efficiently
these are identical to the parts I used for my build, for reference, can be scaled (I can add more detail on this)
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html - got mine for 20% off
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HVA23CK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
you will need 2
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008SA5FA4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
you will need 4, size reliant on plate size ( I used these for a 4" plate set)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-4-8-606...614187?hash=item43d2648e2b:g:3KgAAOSwyXFUYXGj
this is all you need to make 2 4" plates minus the collar. You will still need to cut and drill it or pay someone to do it
you also need to get some aluminum for a collar and it needs to be welded to the top plate. you might be able to find an adapter. something like this.
http://centralparts.com/ProductDetails3836.aspx
You can buy a piece of aluminum pipe but you only need a couple inches of pipe that is about 3" (a bit bigger than the press mount) inner diameter with a thick enough wall dimension (I used 1/2 inch). The welder who cut the plates, drilled the holes for the cartridges and heat sensor and welded the collar on had scrap aluminum pipe.
As pangea stated evap for sure but also I believe the cold also ads an another effect in preservation. Just like most things, the colder it is the more dense and packed the molecules are and supposively electrons slow down. Idk I don't have to technology to know these things myself but supposively this is what absolute zero is about, when absolutely all motion stops.
I theorize that when warmer and the oil being less viscous, there can be more motion on a micro level and this could help the thca "find eachother" and start stacking (pretty sure it's due to polarity).
My concept with the water is that in the flower presses is helps somehow to make a more of a shatter product when I put it in the vac. I have no idea why, just an observation. I can always get flower rosin to produce a pull and snap but some times I can't stop the rosin from buddering which I make from bone dry kief.
I can't explain most of these observations and I get little help from people who actually know canna chemistry cause few are willing to teach.
Ok check this out. We all probably think that lower temps make lighter colored oils right? And we also probably think that the crystallization only happens post press? Well here's a fun video to watch. Lower temps, darker oil with thca chunks spitting out then same press gets bumped up in temp and lighter color oils come out. The darker stuff is way more sappy and terpy as it came out first but it contains a different profile than the stuff that came out second. The second cut at higher temp was pretty much pull and snap and seemed less terpy overall but had a different taste. I'm thinking cause of the different classes and lighter and heavier terps. The light colored chunks is high thca content. I know cause I've had lots of analytical done on such subtamces as originally I thought they were fats and surprise surprise.
https://youtu.be/H-A8HWi6nqs
I would use MTC coconut oil instead of glycerin, cannabis mixes with it easily...
Except MTC oil can't be used in large doses.
FWIW, I have made edibles numerous times now out of Rosin Chips. It actually works, very well! I am very happy with my edibles made with chips. I use Coconut oil, and I must give some credit to my Nuwave induction stovetop! The brownies made last time were passed around to a few people before a concert. They made my brother in in law literally immobile. He had a few beers before he ate the brownie, 5 min after walking into the venue he started slurring his words and not making much sense. He was so messed up that he sat in the same position for the entire concert, passed out on the hill. He eventually puked and got up. Started to snap out of it once he got back into the parking lot. Another person wound up in the ER because of a Panic Attack. I have made chocolates from Coconut oil/Rosin Chips...very similar results. I gave a bunch to a friend to have some of his friends test them out. More than one person said "they were the strongest edibles they had ever eaten.". So I keep all my Rosin Chips, and grind them up in a coffee grinder...preheat my Nuwave to 250f and Coconut oil is brought to temp.I add in my ground material and simmer fir about20-30 min. I watch for bubbles to change. Let cool a little, then my other great investment was buying a Potato Ricer, I get MUCH more oil back. Most people wished they ate less, because they got really messed up. Nobody ate much, so they are potent if they effected people so intensely. I even get a good buzz from them. a couple friends go to or used to got to dispensaries. I have never gotten a buzz from any edible they bought from dispensaries, neither have they. They have lower tolerances too. My Brother gave some Rosin Chips for free to a girl he knows. She thanked him over and over. She loved them. She would just eat the whole chip. Gross...but she did it, and wants more. I love cooking with Rosin Chips, don't think I could eat them by themselves.
i like to extract the remaining oil in the pressed chips using ethanol.
then i decarb that concentrate for my edibles and topicals.
that makes dosage way more consistent IME.
extracting the chips straight to oil or glycerine has two issues for me:
1. low potency---i can fit way more MG per ML carrier oil using concentrates.
2. inconsistent potency---only way to judge the dosage is to send a sample of every batch to the lab, or guinea pig it on your day off.
my etoh extracts come out very consistent from batch to batch so i can assume an mg/gram range and use that to make consistent doses every time.
then i decarb that concentrate for my edibles and topicals.
that makes dosage way more consistent IME.
extracting the chips straight to oil or glycerine has two issues for me:
1. low potency---i can fit way more MG per ML carrier oil using concentrates.
2. inconsistent potency---only way to judge the dosage is to send a sample of every batch to the lab, or guinea pig it on your day off.
my etoh extracts come out very consistent from batch to batch so i can assume an mg/gram range and use that to make consistent doses every time.
