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New extraction technique? Rosin tech?

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Hmmm yes unusually low yield. Hard to tell without seeing the kief in question. For the most part all my lower grade no melt kief yields an average of 50%.

Have you tried bumping up the temps? 180, 200, and 220 are my go to temps for initial experiments and then I dial it in after that with each particular strain or material type. I'd try one at 200F then 220F. I never ever go over 220F

I think you mean an ounce of rosin from a pound of trim?

My trim is very high quality because I spend the time and money doing a really good job of big leafing. As a result I usually average 15%+ in kief. I've had as low as 12% and as high as 23%. There's a lot of technique in tumbling alone. I could probably write a few thousand words on that alone, but not right now lol. If I don't get atleast 15% kief in weight of the trim, I get pissed lol.

I seperate 3 grades as I tumble. The first 3-5 minutes or so which is usually melty dependant on strain that yields around 75% rosin from the weight of the kief. Then the next is like another 15 to 30 minutes wich is either barely melt or clean looking no melt which usually gives me around 60% return and is the bulk of the material. The last grade is another 30 minutes to an hour (sometimes I've done as long as 2 hours total) and it's always no melt and pretty full of hairs and a bit green and yields around 40%-50% and considerably darker rosin but still tasty.

The barrel dimensions, how much is loaded (always go for half full) the rotation speed, how dry and cold the trim is, strain, how the trimming was performed, how the trim was stored, all are factors in the quality and return of the kief from the trim.

In average, iD say if one gets a 10% return of rosin, off the original weight of the trim, that's pretty good.

Every extraction type or method will have different elements that appeal to different people. It's a fallacy that one method is superior. From a subjective perspective that may be true to ones personal ideals but not from am objective perspective. If people want to see 20% yields from trim with decent speed of processing, they are going to need to drop 20k on a cls and ovens (that's what I had done before rosin came about). Rosin isn't the most efficient from a percentage of return perspective but it is very efficient as far as investment, safety, and ease of use is concerned. Every extraction method trades certain elements to gain others.

If you are having a hard time with dry sifting or tumbling, try washing the trim and making bubble. An 8 bag set makes it easier to seperate grades and you'll most certainly get a higher return in hash from the trim. However you then have to deep with all the water and ice and technique involved with that realm. Then there's the process of drying it properly in a cold room. This is why, for production, I prefer just dry tumbling and keeping it dry through the whole process. One can always save the trim, after tumbling, for an ethanol wash, to get the remaining goods out. You can put together a poor man's rotovap and make RSO to give away or consume or distribute to patients as well. I put together this 5 liter setup for like 700 dollars. Mag stir hot plate, boiling flask, 500ml leibig, and no receiving flask. Just use the glass jugs the ever clear comes in, save more money.


Right on man, appreciate your input!
The shake I been getting is some killer cherry pie shake, but they dont clean all the water leaves out very good, so I think thats whats effecting my yeilds.
I usually freeze it and crush it up, then put around a qp in the tumble now for half an hour in a cold room right next to the window ac. I think I also need to clean up my tumble screen and maybe tighten it, I learned my lesson running it a hot ass room one time n think it still needs cleaned from that day.
Im wondering, when making the rosin, if I been pre-pressing it too hard. I been pre pressing to about 3 tons or 750 psi, I wonder if Im making it too solid for it to fully extract. My next try Ima take it down to 600 lbs from the dewalt press on the pre press mold n see if that make a difference. For now Im out of keef tho. I probably shouldnt of been learning on larger amounts like i did, one blowout set me back a good 5-6 grams.
On another note, I pressed up 26 grams of remoistened trim, some pretty crystally stuff of my own, n came out with 1.8 grams. that would equal 31 g/p.
 

FreedomGrower

Active member
Veteran
I get a max of about 7 Grams from an ounce of flowers ...

From kief 50-90%
Bubble 70-90%

Sour Tangi / Sativa outdoor Mix
 

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Sunfire

Active member
Veteran
Oh man I wouldn't crush up Any matetial before tumbling it. The more whole the leaves are the better.

Yeah run it as cold and dry as possible. Fill the barrel about half full for best results. Maybe even use a motor controller and try different speeds. Super cold and slow will yield some high grade at the very beginning

For all pre pressing I use about 500 psi. For hashes I don't think it matters but for flowers I certainly have noticed less quality and yield from heavily pre pressed flowers. Also if the flowers are too dry, a heavy pre press crumbles it more and will leach more sugars and chlorophyll remnants. Think about this stuff on the micro level.
 

Lyfespan

Active member
Oh man I wouldn't crush up Any matetial before tumbling it. The more whole the leaves are the better.

Yeah run it as cold and dry as possible. Fill the barrel about half full for best results. Maybe even use a motor controller and try different speeds. Super cold and slow will yield some high grade at the very beginning

For all pre pressing I use about 500 psi. For hashes I don't think it matters but for flowers I certainly have noticed less quality and yield from heavily pre pressed flowers. Also if the flowers are too dry, a heavy pre press crumbles it more and will leach more sugars and chlorophyll remnants. Think about this stuff on the micro level.
always think of things from a molecular level, and keep using math not guesswork
 
For those that press sift, do you have to press it in a directional flow? Or is that just for video? I don't have a TON of sift, but I prob have 4g or so. I have some bags, but it won't fill the bag, so I'm also not sure if I should cut the bag or fold it in half. I'm thinking cut so there's less bag to adsorb oil (reason why I hate and don't normally ever use bags).
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
directional flow makes collection easier, but it's not necessary.

the most important factor is preparing the packet properly.

i'd cut away as much of the filter pouch as you can, leaving just an inch or two to fold back over to keep the contents inside. as long as you fold the excess material back over the packet, it won't steal any oil.

the perfect pack is somewhere between too tight (blow out) and too loose (steals oil) so that you leave enough space for the oil to flow out of the packet, but not so much space that it pools anywhere in the packet.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
heady how many tons do u press your trim on the dake? I was pressing to 8 (which is 2000 psi), then was advised to stay between 1 and 1500, but not sure if its same for trim tho...

Also u still using chemex unbleached square filters? I got a box of um but it seems like they absorb a lot of rosin compared to some mash bags I was using.
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
heady how many tons do u press your trim on the dake? I was pressing to 8 (which is 2000 psi), then was advised to stay between 1 and 1500, but not sure if its same for trim tho...

Also u still using chemex unbleached square filters? I got a box of um but it seems like they absorb a lot of rosin compared to some mash bags I was using.

ya i ususally go up to about 8 on the dial, but i do it incrementally like sunfire described on the last page.

i bring the plates down on the packet, wait a few seconds for the heat to penetrate a bit, then bring it up to 4 tons on the dial. rosin starts flowin and i get most of the extraction done there.

when the flow starts to slow i crank it up to 6, then 8 tons and let it finish squirting.

still using the chemex filters. i love them. i cut a sheet into 4 pieces and they fit my 2"x4" patties perfectly with just enough overlap.

i haven't used screens so i can't compare, but IME the filter material is less important than how its prepped when it comes to retaining oil or getting it efficiently expelled. loose or slack bits of filter material end up pooling rosin. IME everything should be as tight as possible just short of the point of causing blow outs.
 

KONY

Well-known member
Veteran
heady how many tons do u press your trim on the dake? I was pressing to 8 (which is 2000 psi), then was advised to stay between 1 and 1500, but not sure if its same for trim tho...

Also u still using chemex unbleached square filters? I got a box of um but it seems like they absorb a lot of rosin compared to some mash bags I was using.

What moisture content is your material? Few weeks ago we tried pressing some mediocre material.... it was pretty crappy i wont lie, but it had some trichs. Got absolutely NOTHING out of it, the rosin didnt even make it to the end of the coffee filter.

I didnt think too much of it, until my buddy brought over some nice sourd nugs to press. We loaded up 10 grams and pressed it and nothing came out! Repressed it 2 more times and got a little bit, but not even 10%.

So a few days ago I go to press more material from a few weeks ago, had 3oz ready to press between 6 patties. Pressed the first oz and nothing came out. WTF@#%%@.

So we took a the other 2 oz, (4 patties) and moistened them with a few drops of water. Pressed them and whoola, we are back in business! It is absolutely amazing the difference proper moisture content in the material makes.

So now I have ordered a digital hygrometer and started really paying attention to how dry I let material get.

TL;DR Moisture content plays a huge role in yield.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Yeah man, im bout to get a hygrometer 2. I had a bag of small nugs n shake and left it with some tortillas in the bag for a day, then pressed and it definitely increases the yield. I dont like to trim wet so remoistening is the way to go for me. Its crazy how the trim rosin retains the smell of the original buds so well.
 

Ganjaganjakush

Active member
Took me 2 hours to get a lb of glue lowers done with a buddy presprsssin, got another lb to press b4 collection, lookin like it's gunna avg out to 20% just by weighing a few pucks before and after squish
 

McKush

Éirinn go Brách
ICMag Donor
Veteran
FWIW

I save the pressed pucks and recover what is left in them in crockpot coconut oil. I keep the pucks in ball jars by how many times i squish them. 1 squish and then the 2nd squish jar which then gets dumped into the next coco batch when i amass enough of them
 
From my experience :

70%+ RH is too high and will result in you not extracting THC and getting hydrosols in the final result. When you dry this (too wet at time of press to collect), and collect it, it is very stable and rubbery, but tastes like ass when hit. Tastes burnt and hashy and leaves a ton of carbon on the dabber and in the banger.

65% RH is pretty much the highest % moisture I would consider pressing now. Still has a little hashy of a taste compared to a lower %, but doesn't leave the huge carbon deposits behind.

58-62% RH seems to be the ideal pressing %. This is where I get the best tasting results, the most control over the final product, etc.

I have NEVER added water back to my product. I would assume that would just result in more steam.

Also, for what it's worth, I've been pressing the same strains at 180F, 190F, etc and 180-190F auto budders within an hour, 210-220F results in a sappy stable consistency with slightly less flavor and more of a "burnt" taste according to a friend, although I barely notice it.
 

LostInEthereal

Active member


First attempt at rosin ever, just about 2 weeks back using hair straightener donated from my mom.



Second attempt at rosin, this time utilizing new 5" x 5" dual element press sourced off the net for relatively cheaply. I haven't really read much into this thread, but I was anxious and just gave it a go at 330 degrees for 20 seconds. My infrared thermometer only read 230 so I'm not sure which measurement you guys are referring to throughout the thread, time to read up!

Both buds were from donated stuff from my sister and brother-in-law when I first relocated to Colorado. I have carelessly let it become almost brittle dry (dabbing dispensary bought shatter instead :comfort:). I can't wait to run some of my home grown in the coming months with this rig.
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
From my experience :

70%+ RH is too high and will result in you not extracting THC and getting hydrosols in the final result. When you dry this (too wet at time of press to collect), and collect it, it is very stable and rubbery, but tastes like ass when hit. Tastes burnt and hashy and leaves a ton of carbon on the dabber and in the banger.

65% RH is pretty much the highest % moisture I would consider pressing now. Still has a little hashy of a taste compared to a lower %, but doesn't leave the huge carbon deposits behind.

58-62% RH seems to be the ideal pressing %. This is where I get the best tasting results, the most control over the final product, etc.

I have NEVER added water back to my product. I would assume that would just result in more steam.

Also, for what it's worth, I've been pressing the same strains at 180F, 190F, etc and 180-190F auto budders within an hour, 210-220F results in a sappy stable consistency with slightly less flavor and more of a "burnt" taste according to a friend, although I barely notice it.

accurate to my experiences as well. i call the 220* consistency "pull & snap".

sunfire was tellin me that on the FB rosin page there's some great info/discussion on how the ratio of thc-a vs thc effects the texture of the final product. would explain the auto buddering on the lower temp presses. slight decarb of the product keeps it clear.

if anyone is on FB and wouldn't mind digging up that info and reposting it to our thread here, i would be forever greatful!
 
accurate to my experiences as well. i call the 220* consistency "pull & snap".

sunfire was tellin me that on the FB rosin page there's some great info/discussion on how the ratio of thc-a vs thc effects the texture of the final product. would explain the auto buddering on the lower temp presses. slight decarb of the product keeps it clear.

if anyone is on FB and wouldn't mind digging up that info and reposting it to our thread here, i would be forever greatful!

Not only that, but I also believe that the lower temps = more terpenes = more buddering. The lower I go, the quicker it budders. I just made some last night at 190F, then whipped it up real nice and let it sit out overnight and it's god damn beautiful and tastes delicious. A little too "wet" to pick up with your hands and play with, kind of like quality coke, it breaks apart and is fluffy.

I have also thought about the Thc vs thc-a, and yah due tot he activation, there should be much more thc than thc-a in rosin when compared to BHO.
 

Weird

3rd-Eye Jedi
Veteran
SQUIRTTTTT

SQUIRTTTTT

1 squish nug (Philthys P1 cut) los organic using lappy's rosin tech

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McKush

Éirinn go Brách
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Thats a weird puck Weird. Why the donought marking? Are you using coffee filter or bare backing that one?

Good return it seems, could you collect that right away or did it need to dry out first ?
 

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