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New extraction technique? Rosin tech?

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
My plates are 5" X 2.5" . I can definitely squish more at a time, just break it down into a few smaller presses just in case I fuck something up. Every once in a while ill over press and blowout a filter bag still when I first sit down to press. I should really hook a gauge up to my press, but just haven't got around to it.

yea i hate blow outs. sunfire reinforces the filter material with a layer of SS mesh around the packet. i haven't got enough hash to have to experiment with that, but it seems like a good idea to prevent blow outs on big hash presses.

when i get a hash blow out i just pack it all back up into a new filter packet and re-squish. not ideal but you can still get very nice oil even after a repress.
 

204andpost

New member
That's what I do to when I get a blowout too. The only real difference I see is that it becomes less stable after the repress. Aside from that though, pretty much the same.

I'd like to get a pre press mold that is slightly smaller than my plate size to mess around more with sunfires techniques, but I admit my preferred form of medicating is solvent extracts so not much material ends up in my rosin pile to play with.

I should also mention the 20 ton is completely redundant pressure wise for hash / sift pressing and I rarely come even close to using its full force in that context.

With large filter bags full of flower though it's a whole different ball game.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Was wondering. If u got some fire but its uh lil dry, will it be sufficent for pressung if u remoisten it? I got some 🔥 gg4 little nuga i wantes to press but they crumble dry...
 

Sunfire

Active member
Veteran
Ok so let's start with the chemex report we did...
https://www.instagram.com/p/BIQc0PZA7p6/

Then jump to this video...
https://youtu.be/sNUAYGj5kvQ

And here's how to make a mold at home with only a phone call to a local metals supplier and some C clamps and a file...
https://www.instagram.com/p/BAiIGxVuBzb/

That last one is like 7 months old. Had been using that same exact mold for months before posting that. And I'm still using it to this day, even though we have fancy nicer ones now lol!

I only dry tumble trim in a pollen master 1500 with a 180u mesh in a dry cold room.

I can get away with up to 3 grams per square inch (gpsi) of no melt kief using ONLY the paper filter. After that the mesh is needed. No melts usually give me 50% return.

For ALL melty hashes the mesh must be used. I've done up to 9 gpsi with a 5x5 material pack (225 grams) but I prefer to not exceed 8gpsi and believe that 6 gpsi yields preferable quality but this is strain dependent and condition dependent indeed. My half melts from the tumbler have yielded up to 75% return of rosin from original kief weight.

And just for shits and giggles, attached is a recent fun item. This guy ripped our pic that's 7 months old, made a meme, then was trying to act like it's his shit. Myself, oz, and grey fox were all blocked immediately when he was confronted. Pretty sad how someone can give something away, and mother Fuckers still try to steal it ahhahahaha. Good laugh indeed, I'll mess with him tomorrow mwuahahha!

Idk if this info helps yall, three new pages since I was last here. Just kinda brushed though it. Looked like micron of filtration and filter sourcing questions.

Oh yeah, I remember something about a gauge, absolutely important. Norco 12 and 20 ton bottle jacks with gauge ports are the best deal from a place I believe is called jackxchange. Don't buy the stock norco gauge, it's overpriced. You can source your own for much less online. That's if you have a press that uses bottle jacks which I'm assuming the case because other setups usually come with gauges.
 

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Sunfire

Active member
Veteran
Was wondering. If u got some fire but its uh lil dry, will it be sufficent for pressung if u remoisten it? I got some 🔥 gg4 little nuga i wantes to press but they crumble dry...

Yes, most people use the boveda 62 packs but I've noticed, as have others, that they can rob terps. I think it's from temp fluctuations raising and dropping relative humidity in the sealed vessel. Not sure exactly, but don't leave things to remoisten for more than 24 hours, overnight is prefferable.

I'm beginning to think this is also too moist. I feel around 55% or so would be better.

Some get their herbs bone dry and have figured out a ratio of how much moisture to add back in, can't help there with numbers though I use a spray bottle, a hygrometer, and turkey bags, poor man's tech. Go to home depot. A cheap thermometer/hygrometer combo is like 10 bucks. Worth every penny. Don't add too much. Once dry, you don't want to moisten and dry again, seems to fuck with terps from my observations. Idk how big yur going. Smaller scale a jar and a boveda will probably work great.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Fasho good lookin out. I usually just use some fresh leaves or if none available a flour tortilla. Ima have to go get them homedepot meters n see wut it do.
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
how did i miss that chemex post?

i've been telling people "the premium brands tend to be thicker and of better quality."

guess the word is out :biggrin:

funny that the dumbass that stole the pic for his dumb meme was a rosin page. what a moron! haha.
 

Sunfire

Active member
Veteran
Temp is also important for rehydration. A 90F sealed room with let's say 40%rh, will bump up to like 70%rh when the room is dropped down to like 60F. I try to hold 70F. It would take some experimenting but I always thought a fridge would well, hold even temps. But it's pretty cold and I feel a lot of moisture will get deposited into the material but not as fast as it would happen at higher temps. It's all due to the density of atmosphere including the moisture.
 

FreedomGrower

Active member
Veteran
Last Years legend OG Still squishes ... just more dark

15 tons @ 180D 3x5 plates
 

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Drop That Sound

Well-known member
I wonder what would happen if you had a remote switch and could fit a press inside a chamber, and start to quickly evacuate it, then squish it while under full vacuum?

Just thinking maybe it could possibly help burst and pull out the oil, from all the way around the material in the thin gap between the hot plates..
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
tryna get my method down... So if your squishin say an ounce of sift, how long would u spend building up to your max pressure? Do u slowly pump it up? And how long is the whole process and howlong u lwave it at max pressure?
 
tryna get my method down... So if your squishin say an ounce of sift, how long would u spend building up to your max pressure? Do u slowly pump it up? And how long is the whole process and howlong u lwave it at max pressure?

With sift you don't need much pressure or heat at all, as compared to flower. You should press sift for maybe 30 seconds at 180F. Leave it at max pressure (whatever you choose, not the max the unit will go) until it stops flowing.
 

Sunfire

Active member
Veteran
I wonder what would happen if you had a remote switch and could fit a press inside a chamber, and start to quickly evacuate it, then squish it while under full vacuum?

Just thinking maybe it could possibly help burst and pull out the oil, from all the way around the material in the thin gap between the hot plates..

Best value vacs and one other company up north both had designs for vac presses and they have dropped off the edge of the world with those designs.

I believe it's a terrible idea. You've seen a muffin form while pulling a vac before? Imagine that happening outside and around your platens and in between paper. It's gonna spread everywhere.

Even at 180F, pressing under even mild vac is going to most likely kill a lot of terps and cause more decarb.

I believe the opposite would be best. I already drip onto a frozen tile as a cold plate to cool the rosin quicker, but pressing under slight positive pressure could hinder terp evap and decarb. It's all about those BPs and decarb curves.
 

Sunfire

Active member
Veteran
tryna get my method down... So if your squishin say an ounce of sift, how long would u spend building up to your max pressure? Do u slowly pump it up? And how long is the whole process and howlong u lwave it at max pressure?

Well, I can tell you 150 grams of sift will take around 5 minutes. But it's dependant on the quality.

Half melts start juicing before I even get a pressure read on the gauge.

Lower temps will take a little longer and higher temps will be a little faster.

I increment pressure maybe 200 psi at the material, every 15-30 seconds, starting at around 200 psi before I start considering myself to be increasing as that's about 1k on the gauge where I begin to get a clear reading. But this is with like 6 ounce presses. I imagine with 1 ounce it could be twice as fast and take half the amount of time.

The best recommendation for this is to utilize some form of directional flow to where you can see the flow of the rosin in speed and volume and increment accordingly withing your own personal parameters as to not cause a blow out.

It's really really hard to try to superimpose someone else's tech with their equipment and material, onto your different equipment and material.

Smaller loads go faster for sure but I've heard people do 2 or 3 minute long presses with even smaller loads.

It certainly seems to be true that hashes require less temp and pressure for a complete extraction. If the material is melty at all I recommend 180-200F and if it's no melt I'd go for 200-220F. Most definetly is good to do a few little experimental runs first if the quantity of material possessed will allow for such.

This is mostly all anyone can give you, is a loose set or parameters and values. Your going to have to find the best balance for your personal setup and material and even preference of end resulting product.

With lower temps, don't be scrared of going a little longer. We are long past the days of pressing at 300F lol.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
Great info man.

I got a dake 10 ton press, and some 3x5 inch plates.
When calculating PSI you only do surface area of whats being pressed tho, correct?
That would mean for my presses, which are 2x4 inches or 8 square inches, each ton would be 250 psi, so 4 tons would be 1000psi and 8 tons would be 2000 psi. I been trying not to go more than 1500 psi. Anyone feel like checkin my math feel free.

My first run I would put 15 grams per press, pre pressed to 3 tons, then press for anywhere from 1-2 minutes, slowly building up to 1500 psi then leaving it there for about 20-30 seconds. This was at 85 degrees celsius or 185 f. Yields were below expectations, 30 grams of keef yielded 10 g rosin. 33% return. My filters were chemex wrapped via sunfires method, then with 120 silk screen which was re used each press.

Cherry pie
240 leaf
30 keef, 56 grams/pound
10 rosin, 18 grams/pound

I need to get my numbers to an ounce rosin per lb keef, from what Ive seen from others this number is attainable....
 

Sunfire

Active member
Veteran
Hmmm yes unusually low yield. Hard to tell without seeing the kief in question. For the most part all my lower grade no melt kief yields an average of 50%.

Have you tried bumping up the temps? 180, 200, and 220 are my go to temps for initial experiments and then I dial it in after that with each particular strain or material type. I'd try one at 200F then 220F. I never ever go over 220F

I think you mean an ounce of rosin from a pound of trim?

My trim is very high quality because I spend the time and money doing a really good job of big leafing. As a result I usually average 15%+ in kief. I've had as low as 12% and as high as 23%. There's a lot of technique in tumbling alone. I could probably write a few thousand words on that alone, but not right now lol. If I don't get atleast 15% kief in weight of the trim, I get pissed lol.

I seperate 3 grades as I tumble. The first 3-5 minutes or so which is usually melty dependant on strain that yields around 75% rosin from the weight of the kief. Then the next is like another 15 to 30 minutes wich is either barely melt or clean looking no melt which usually gives me around 60% return and is the bulk of the material. The last grade is another 30 minutes to an hour (sometimes I've done as long as 2 hours total) and it's always no melt and pretty full of hairs and a bit green and yields around 40%-50% and considerably darker rosin but still tasty.

The barrel dimensions, how much is loaded (always go for half full) the rotation speed, how dry and cold the trim is, strain, how the trimming was performed, how the trim was stored, all are factors in the quality and return of the kief from the trim.

In average, iD say if one gets a 10% return of rosin, off the original weight of the trim, that's pretty good.

Every extraction type or method will have different elements that appeal to different people. It's a fallacy that one method is superior. From a subjective perspective that may be true to ones personal ideals but not from am objective perspective. If people want to see 20% yields from trim with decent speed of processing, they are going to need to drop 20k on a cls and ovens (that's what I had done before rosin came about). Rosin isn't the most efficient from a percentage of return perspective but it is very efficient as far as investment, safety, and ease of use is concerned. Every extraction method trades certain elements to gain others.

If you are having a hard time with dry sifting or tumbling, try washing the trim and making bubble. An 8 bag set makes it easier to seperate grades and you'll most certainly get a higher return in hash from the trim. However you then have to deep with all the water and ice and technique involved with that realm. Then there's the process of drying it properly in a cold room. This is why, for production, I prefer just dry tumbling and keeping it dry through the whole process. One can always save the trim, after tumbling, for an ethanol wash, to get the remaining goods out. You can put together a poor man's rotovap and make RSO to give away or consume or distribute to patients as well. I put together this 5 liter setup for like 700 dollars. Mag stir hot plate, boiling flask, 500ml leibig, and no receiving flask. Just use the glass jugs the ever clear comes in, save more money.
 

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Sunfire

Active member
Veteran
And yes, your math was correct. With 8 square inches of material that's 250 psi per 1 ton. Never exceed 80% rated capacity of the equipment.
 
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