New extraction technique? Rosin tech?

[Robrites]

You just have to support them well enough so they dont get crushed. I used jb weld to attach them but its not that great because it melts when it gets hot so I can't really recommend it.

Honestly if I were you I would take a while to read this whole thread and you will see this isn't the best method by far.

Check out HMK's new vice grip clamp method. Probably the simplest, easiest, best way the get good results

Ya. What that guy said.

 

[weedaholic721]

I know this may have been discussed but has anyone tried a rolling type press, like pressing between two metal cylinders to squeeze out the rosin?

 

[porkchop buddah]

this might be a dumb question but its always on my mind. can the oils in buds be extracted by somehow sweating them out?

 

[Lapides]

this might be a dumb question but its always on my mind. can the oils in buds be extracted by somehow sweating them out?

Yeah, with low heat and high pressure.

 

[porkchop buddah]

I assume its not economical for the casual person to produce? I would think a sweat would yield the most

 

[Simplicius]

You just have to support them well enough so they dont get crushed. I used jb weld to attach them but its not that great because it melts when it gets hot so I can't really recommend it.

Honestly if I were you I would take a while to read this whole thread and you will see this isn't the best method by far.

Check out HMK's new vice grip clamp method. Probably the simplest, easiest, best way to get good results

Thanks!
Who is HMK and how can I find him ? ^^
Also what's the best alternative for J&B weld ?
I was also thinking about just using a vice grip, but I thought this has more pressure.

 

[Grow Tech]

HMK= Hashmasta-Kut
He's got many posts in this thread. He's well known for his glass and Ti work

 

[Simplicius]

HMK= Hashmasta-Kut
He's got many posts in this thread. He's well known for his glass and Ti work

Yo, I found out like one minute after, sadly you can't edit posts.
Also read a lot of his stuff, just didn't know he has an abbreviation for referral haha.

 

[ChasingGreen]

Hey guys, so the arbor press I've been using (2 ton) is just not cutting it for me. Between having to hold down the table it's attached to to not flip the table, and the handle bending during use, I think it's time to upgrade to a pneumatic press.

If I have the MediSun dies, how would I go about attaching the bottom one to a press? Anyone use the 6 ton Harbor Freight press? I was hoping to use a compressor to make it go up and down, not sure if i need a different jack to do this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a-frame-bench-shop-press-1666.html

 

[Lapides]

You will need to get another jack, harbor freight sells the pneumatic ones in 20 ton that I know of, don't know about 6 ton.

Sorry I don't know about how to mount your plates tho. Get creative.

 

[redlaser]

Hey guys, so the arbor press I've been using (2 ton) is just not cutting it for me. Between having to hold down the table it's attached to to not flip the table, and the handle bending during use, I think it's time to upgrade to a pneumatic press.

If I have the MediSun dies, how would I go about attaching the bottom one to a press? Anyone use the 6 ton Harbor Freight press? I was hoping to use a compressor to make it go up and down, not sure if i need a different jack to do this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a-frame-bench-shop-press-1666.html

I've got a 6 ton bottle jack on an A frame press using the medisun dies. I don't have the bottom one attached to anything, it sits on the plate the press came with. The top one can be attached with the screws to the press. Ideally the bottom one would be mounted somehow, just haven't got around to it yet.

 

[ChasingGreen]

One other question, I know somewhere in this thread we discussed ideal PSI and it was explained why a huge ass plate wouldn't have good psi. What is the ideal PSI that you want to achieve? I'm going to just design my own plate in Solidworks and have it machined locally. I also have to figure out where to get those flat heaters that Timewizard_Greyfox uses.

 

[Lapides]

I have 5"x6" plates for my 20 ton press. That yields 1333 psi. But my pucks will never be that big.

The psi that is being applied to the puck will change as the puck squishes outward.

I don't think an ideal psi has been found yet. There are many variables, puck size, puck thickness, temperature, psi, etc.

 

[ChasingGreen]

Any thoughts on just using flat coil heaters? They're already made, they're already flat, and they work on existing PID controller boxes that everyone has. Kind of like the MediSun idea, but actually done well...

 

[Lapides]

I'm using 2 4" cartridge heaters per plate wired to a PID, instead of the flat coils.

Pretty much like this http://highsimple.com/diy-rosin-heat-press/step-5/

 

[heady blunts]

flat coils work fine and double as enails when you're not using the press, but they take a long time to bring the plates to temperature.

cartridge heaters are much quicker to heat up and have a faster response to changes in temp on the plates (like when you put a bunch of nug in there).

i get results anywhere from 200psi (eg HMK press, pneumatic c-frame presses like foundation extracts, and the electric hardpress), to 2000psi (eg hydraulic jack using properly sized plates).

a very general rule would be higher PSI extracts more thoroughly, but as lappy said there are a lot of complicating factors.

i have also noticed higher PSI allows me to drop temperature lower without sacrificing as much yield. i could never get that nice 180* butter with only a couple hundred psi.

i press mostly herb fwiw. hash is so easy you don't really need anything special for it.

 

[ChasingGreen]

I'm using 2 4" cartridge heaters per plate wired to a PID, instead of the flat coils.

Pretty much like this http://highsimple.com/diy-rosin-heat-press/step-5/

I thought those cartridge heaters were meant for use in a submersed liquid only? I picked one of those up at a local surplus shop, went to the back and hooked it up to a power source where I could control the voltage. It said they were, and they were stamped with 110V 300W on them. They got red hot at around 80V and when the guy turned it to 90V it exploded like a fire cracker and was really lucky no one was hurt. Needless to say I put those back. Which ones did you buy exactly and where from?

 

[heady blunts]

i'm talking about PTC heaters. that's what's in the hair irons afaik.

 

[Lapides]

I thought those cartridge heaters were meant for use in a submersed liquid only? I picked one of those up at a local surplus shop, went to the back and hooked it up to a power source where I could control the voltage. It said they were, and they were stamped with 110V 300W on them. They got red hot at around 80V and when the guy turned it to 90V it exploded like a fire cracker and was really lucky no one was hurt. Needless to say I put those back. Which ones did you buy exactly and where from?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartridge_heater
Cartridge Heater Applications are as below[4]

• Seal Bars
• Torpedo Heaters for injection molding
• Injection molding manifolds
• Mass Spectrometry
• Rubber molding
• Food production
• Immersion Tank heating
• HVAC Compressors
• Fuel Cell
• Semiconductor
• Medical Devices
• Sensor measurement devices
• Extrusion
• Die Casting
• Hot melt adhesives
• Heat Staking/ Hole Punch
• Plastic welding
• Fluid heating

How long did you have the voltage connected to it when it got red hot? My guess is they don't take long to heat up and dont need constant voltage, which is why they're controlled by PIDs. PID's just turn it on and off rather quickly from what I understand.

 

[ChasingGreen]

How long did you have the voltage connected to it when it got red hot? My guess is they don't take long to heat up and dont need constant voltage, which is why they're controlled by PIDs. PID's just turn it on and off rather quickly from what I understand.

You bring up a good point. I didn't have it hooked up to a SSR or PID, just straight into wiring which was into the controller on the wall (made exactly for this purpose, testing different voltages, etc for products).

I don't fully understand what the SSR does, I've done some reading, but don't know anyone IRL that knows anything about them. Meeting with a designer tonight regarding the plates, but obviously they have to be designed around the heating source, so need to figure that out first. I was thinking the flat coils would be the easiest, but I see what you mean about them heating up, they really aren't that fast. However, that could also be because of how the PID's for enails are programmed and perhaps just need to be re-programmed for this application?