New extraction technique? Rosin tech?

[McKush]

Nothing played for me in the vid from a cell phone

 

[heady blunts]

aren't you on IG mckush? i took it off there.

 

[20sackzack]

are you making pucks with a twisty hash press? that took me forever!

i've been borrowing more advice from sunfire on the pre-pressing and it's been very successful and saving me time.

i experimented at first by filling quart sized ziplock backs full of trim then putting them under a board and standing on it for a while to compress the herb. then i'd cut it into properly sized rectangles with a sharp pair of scissors. i could put the rectangles into the t-sacs, or wrap with a piece of coffee filter paper. they weren't quite tight enough with my trim to press without a filter.

on my 4 ton press with 2"x3" plates i was able to do 2.5--3g per packet before getting blowouts.

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last week i finally got a pressing die made. with my new 10t i am going to be using 3"x5" plates. i am expecting to be able to press up to 15g at a time on these. the pre-press die fits the trim easily and compresses it into a perfect even rectangle.

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greyfox is whipping me up some heated platens and i should have some numbers to share after those arrive.

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Aww snap! Heady does it again. That trim puck is beautiful, and a 15 gram press! Holy smokes you no fuck around.

Looking awesome heady, can't wait to see the heated platens.

 

[KashmirC]

What type of metal is being used for "plates" and how thick as well?
I have a 30 ton hydraulic sitting around that would be fun to use. I'm not sure how to figure out how thick to make the plates and out of what material. I want to make the preforms as well for pre pressing. love that idea...

I could ask a local welder but figured i'd ask here first since you guys have so much R&D time spent on this....

 

[reefsauce]

Aluminum or Steel will both work.

Technically aluminum has a much higher thermal conductivity and it is softer. That means generally you may need thicker material for aluminum. It also could mean lower temps could be used with aluminum but that may be of little effect once parchment paper is factored in, but it would be fun to experiment with.

I think 1/2" for steel is the thinnest you want to try. Most you can buy start at 1" and up which means you can still holes for a heater and still have almost 1/2" on either side.

If I was to do mine over I would probably do 2" thick aluminum, mostly because it is much easier to drill and tap and the steel is not offering any real benefits that I can think of.

 

[KashmirC]

Thanks reef sauce! I'll get right on it. Any leads on good heaters to insert?

Possibly a link to another thread that already goes over this? I'm a newbie in here so I'd hate to throw the thread off on something already spoken about.

 

[Lyfespan]

What type of metal is being used for "plates" and how thick as well?
I have a 30 ton hydraulic sitting around that would be fun to use. I'm not sure how to figure out how thick to make the plates and out of what material. I want to make the preforms as well for pre pressing. love that idea...

I could ask a local welder but figured i'd ask here first since you guys have so much R&D time spent on this....

i would try to use at least 304 stainless, remember you are going to be getting some frictional, then subjecting whatever you might pick up to concentration, or composition changes

ie oils, rust and other surface contaminants

 

[Lyfespan]

Aluminum or Steel will both work.

Technically aluminum has a much higher thermal conductivity and it is softer. That means generally you may need thicker material for aluminum. It also could mean lower temps could be used with aluminum but that may be of little effect once parchment paper is factored in, but it would be fun to experiment with.

I think 1/2" for steel is the thinnest you want to try. Most you can buy start at 1" and up which means you can still holes for a heater and still have almost 1/2" on either side.

If I was to do mine over I would probably do 2" thick aluminum, mostly because it is much easier to drill and tap and the steel is not offering any real benefits that I can think of.

aluminum should be your last choice

 

[Ringodoggie]

aluminum should be your last choice

How come?

 

[EastCoast710]

prolyl because heat and pressing.. could leach some aluminum into the product. but from what I know u need some SERIOUS heat to do that. lol. I think we are leaching more stuff from the parchment then from aluminum. as most don't run temps that high

but I could be wrong. lol.

just a guess as to why he said aluminum should be your last choice.

 

[Lyfespan]

How come?

rub your finger on some aluminum for a bit and see what color it turns

 

[KashmirC]

So for a 30 ton press how thick should I go with stainless? ideally I would like it thick enough to insert some sort of heating element(and sensor to regulate heat?) Ideas on good rod shaped heaters that fit in a a block like that?

 

[Lyfespan]

So for a 30 ton press how thick should I go with stainless? ideally I would like it thick enough to insert some sort of heating element(and sensor to regulate heat?) Ideas on good rod shaped heaters that fit in a a block like that?

you are missing the point of the lil box. its to perform the material into tight pucks, this makes for more efficient pressing

 

[Ringodoggie]

rub your finger on some aluminum for a bit and see what color it turns

OK, you're talking about AL2O3. I thought you might mean for some mechanical reason pertaining to dissipation or absorption. LOL

AL2O3 doesn't scare me. I'm over 60 years old. I own 2 motorcycles and 1 of them is a Ninja that I street race. Things that result in "long term effects" don't scare me, any more. LMAO

I just bought some round AL platens and I am having them drilled for the round ceramic mold heaters. All I have tested so far is aluminum.

And, on a more realistic note (than bragging about how fast I'll probably kill myself on my bike) I think the parchment is really cutting off almost every bit of danger.

However, you certainly have a valid point. The relationship between AD and AL is very real and should probably be avoided as you said. Just in case.

 

[Lyfespan]

OK, you're talking about AL2O3. I thought you might mean for some mechanical reason pertaining to dissipation or absorption. LOL

AL2O3 doesn't scare me. I'm over 60 years old. I own 2 motorcycles and 1 of them is a Ninja that I street race. Things that result in "long term effects" don't scare me, any more. LMAO

I just bought some round AL platens and I am having them drilled for the round ceramic mold heaters. All I have tested so far is aluminum.

And, on a more realistic note (than bragging about how fast I'll probably kill myself on my bike) I think the parchment is really cutting off almost every bit of danger.

However, you certainly have a valid point. The relationship between AD and AL is very real and should probably be avoided as you said. Just in case.

totally, we are all on our way to the grave, but how some might not want to get there was my point

 

[Ringodoggie]

totally, we are all on our way to the grave, but how some might not want to get there was my point

So true. I already have more letters after my name than an AKC Champion show dog. I don't need to add AD to them. LOL

 

[dope_roor]

So for a 30 ton press how thick should I go with stainless? ideally I would like it thick enough to insert some sort of heating element(and sensor to regulate heat?) Ideas on good rod shaped heaters that fit in a a block like that?

I've seen people talk about using digitally controlled soldering irons as heating elements on FC, and using a laser to get surface temp

or go with essentially an enail to heat

 

[theJointedOne]

Questions

What's size micron mesh is best for shake trim rosin extraction?

Any specific bags you guys recommend? I saw the ones on rosintech but figured there's probably cheaper alternatives.

Can you guys recommend a website where I can order?

Thanks so much

 

[Lyfespan]

Questions

What's size micron mesh is best for shake trim rosin extraction?

Any specific bags you guys recommend? I saw the ones on rosintech but figured there's probably cheaper alternatives.

Can you guys recommend a website where I can order?

Thanks so much

the rh of the material will play a part in your decision here.

the drier the finer the micron

another thing im noticing with moister material is the buttering or emulsification being exacerbated by smaller microns. due in part to the moisture and oil fighting to escape at the same time. this seems to really affect final product in the higher humidity areas.

 

[reefsauce]

I would look at cartridge heaters. You can use any PID controller to control them. There is a nice inkbird PID combo with sensor on amazon for around 25 bucks.

Cartridge heaters will be FAR more effective than some e-nail or soldering iron.


Good points re: aluminum. I hadn't thought about the oxide but I do think most of the flow is going the other way, ie through the paper towards the metal. I always have to wipe a bit of dark oil off my plates afterwards.
I am not too worried about rust or anything on my regular steel plates since I just wipe them with ISO after every use. If they ever start to discolor I will simply re-lap them with some sandpaper and it will take only a few minutes.

my main reasons for considering aluminum is easier machinability. Drilling regular steel is a bit time consuming esp if you don't buy a special bit. I did buy a special bit for my cartridge heater (1/4") but then realized I needed a slightly smaller hole for the sensor and ended up using a regular wood bit and it took forever. With AL the wood bit would have had no trouble.