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New extraction technique? Rosin tech?

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Just a note that some of the non solvent concentrates that I helped judge for the Dope Cup were pressed Rosin, and among the best in the offerings.

They were mostly purdy to gaze upon, were strongly to highly aromatic, and all had excellent flavor. The ugliest of the group, was a live Rosin extract, but was also highly aromatic, and had the best flavor.
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
Geeze, you guys are all wrong. Don't ya'll know nothin'?

It's from the Creedence Clearwater Revival song..... Bad Moon Rosin'

:)
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
Just a note that some of the non solvent concentrates that I helped judge for the Dope Cup were pressed Rosin, and among the best in the offerings.

They were mostly purdy to gaze upon, were strongly to highly aromatic, and all had excellent flavor. The ugliest of the group, was a live Rosin extract, but was also highly aromatic, and had the best flavor.

love to hear this!

:dance013:
 

Grey_Fox

Member
Geeze, you guys are all wrong. Don't ya'll know nothin'?

It's from the Creedence Clearwater Revival song..... Bad Moon Rosin'

:)
bwahahahah! yuss.

Good to see you lurking around here Gray wolf, thanks for sharing your experiences in a cup situation, as I'm sure a lot of us are wondering how Rosin would stack up against other methods.

So I've been able to get some good tests in with the mch heaters. and have come to the conclusion that they work well but are not best suited for the needs at hand.
I was having issues with the rectangular heaters where only one side was heating up to temp while the other side was at roughly half that. Not too sure if it's an issue on my end or just the heaters not being of the exact resistance I need for the power I'm giving it. These were only testers after all so I wasn't able to get them made to my specific needs :(. The circular heaters seemed to have the same issue but to less of an extent and I think that may be due to the lower max temp of 180c that it can produce.

My real issue with the heaters is that they can break fairly easily which would make it difficult to make a solid long lasting unit. I'm sure they will work for some needs but I feel the need for a heater that can take some beating is needed while dealing with such high pressures and abrupt force applied by some presses.
I think I may have to keep searching unless I can find a reinforced style of mch heater. I do like how thin they are :(
the flexible heater pads seem like a good option for longevity and wouldn't be breaking from people tinkering.
I'm also looking into some cheap Pid controllers online as the price seems like it wouldn't be so bad compared to the function I get from it versus an analog control.
Going to be making an order on some toys this weekend I think :biggrin:
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
My real issue with the heaters is that they can break fairly easily which would make it difficult to make a solid long lasting unit. I'm sure they will work for some needs but I feel the need for a heater that can take some beating is needed while dealing with such high pressures and abrupt force applied by some presses.

What's your resistance (no pun intended :) ) to the PTC heaters that I am using? They are encased in an aluminum extrusion that's pretty tough.

I'll bet that if you lined these up side by side to make a corrugated design and sandwiched them between your pressing plates, that they would hold up to the pressure needed for personal rosin pressing (about a ton or 2) without collapsing.

I have been told that they have issues with large scale production but they have been consistent and a real winner for me so far in pressing small quantities for personal use.

If one of mine ever fails, I'll put it in the press and see how easily it crushes.
 

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Grey_Fox

Member
What's your resistance (no pun intended :) ) to the PTC heaters that I am using? They are encased in an aluminum extrusion that's pretty tough.

I'll bet that if you lined these up side by side to make a corrugated design and sandwiched them between your pressing plates, that they would hold up to the pressure needed for personal rosin pressing (about a ton or 2) without collapsing.

I have been told that they have issues with large scale production but they have been consistent and a real winner for me so far in pressing small quantities for personal use.

If one of mine ever fails, I'll put it in the press and see how easily it crushes.
My reason for wanting to go with the MCH heaters was mainly the thickness aspect. It would require one pass on the cnc for the mch versus 2 or more for the ptc due to that extra thickness. Trying to shave costs where I can and bring down the production time to something more manageable. I do like the ptc's because they seem to have 2 metal resistance plates sandwiching a piece of ceramic which seems a bit stronger in the long run but that thickness is probably going to cause some amount of issue.
 

blastfrompast

Active member
Veteran
care full with pressure with PTC plates, when they go, they go :)

I had one that would blow the fuse in my panel when I tried to plug in that pressing plate version 1..lol
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
OK, pressed a few more flowers tonight and used the experimental plate shown in the picture.

As you can see, I have tried 3 different experiments with this plate so far. None have produced overly desirable results.

The first test was a slight indentation with a hole in the middle. A 25u screen about the size of a dime was placed on top of the hole.

The straight lines didn't do much.

The vortex lines were about the same. Both were pressed in parchment.

It seems a little strange that the rosin didn't follow the lines. Logic would dictate that it would but it did not. Mr. Spock would be pissed. The rosin still ran up the sides of the folded parchment just as it does without the lines.

The hole concept deserves another test or 2. I am thinking of folding parchment in a manner to provide direction to the hole and try again. My first (and only) attempt simply clogged the screen.


If I may ask a question. I am still using aluminum for my plates. May I ask what kind of metal (or whatever) you are using for your plates/platens?

Thanks
 

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mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
I did my first test run of rosin last night. Bought walmart hair straightener. Used a few decent nugs and even some shake . Fairly impressive, i am eager to learn more. I feel Iike the last person to have heard of this method ! Great work posting the info here. Thanks y'all
 

mexicani-ar

Well-known member
Chimera Modern Mix Rosin

Chimera Modern Mix Rosin

I decided to try the Rosin Technique today with my sisters hair iron, these are the results.
 

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Lyfespan

Active member
What's your resistance (no pun intended :) ) to the PTC heaters that I am using? They are encased in an aluminum extrusion that's pretty tough.

I'll bet that if you lined these up side by side to make a corrugated design and sandwiched them between your pressing plates, that they would hold up to the pressure needed for personal rosin pressing (about a ton or 2) without collapsing.

I have been told that they have issues with large scale production but they have been consistent and a real winner for me so far in pressing small quantities for personal use.

If one of mine ever fails, I'll put it in the press and see how easily it crushes.
hey hey you guys, glad to see everyone still cranking forward with this, we are still tinkering here too. your thought of stringing a few of these plates together has been done here, i took 1/2 bar stock and secured 2 elements to it and had good results with the larger area, the weird plus on that design was that the rosin followed the seem? these did not stand up to 1 ton of pressure, hehehe the heating element channel collapses.
My reason for wanting to go with the MCH heaters was mainly the thickness aspect. It would require one pass on the cnc for the mch versus 2 or more for the ptc due to that extra thickness. Trying to shave costs where I can and bring down the production time to something more manageable. I do like the ptc's because they seem to have 2 metal resistance plates sandwiching a piece of ceramic which seems a bit stronger in the long run but that thickness is probably going to cause some amount of issue.
if using a press with 2tons or over 1/2"+ is needed.

OK, pressed a few more flowers tonight and used the experimental plate shown in the picture.

As you can see, I have tried 3 different experiments with this plate so far. None have produced overly desirable results.

The first test was a slight indentation with a hole in the middle. A 25u screen about the size of a dime was placed on top of the hole.

The straight lines didn't do much.

The vortex lines were about the same. Both were pressed in parchment.

It seems a little strange that the rosin didn't follow the lines. Logic would dictate that it would but it did not. Mr. Spock would be pissed. The rosin still ran up the sides of the folded parchment just as it does without the lines.

The hole concept deserves another test or 2. I am thinking of folding parchment in a manner to provide direction to the hole and try again. My first (and only) attempt simply clogged the screen.


If I may ask a question. I am still using aluminum for my plates. May I ask what kind of metal (or whatever) you are using for your plates/platens?

Thanks
i will be the first to admit that all the relief designs and such we tried here were a failure, almost seemed like the dam oil actually went as far from the reliefs as possible, we do now know that if a colder area is provided the oil will "run" for that, yet another lesson in thermodynamics for us here.

the indent is useless too, unless you could get the indent area to be a male and female pattern in the heating elements, then only heat this area, letting the heat dissipate further out on the plates , for the cooler collection area. The indent also works for a production standpoint when implementing the puck forming machine, for prepressed pucks, and also allows for different size machines to be sold dependant on the pucks.

btw, i have had the best success using the silicone mats, i cut them in to 8"x4" pieces and put the pressed pucks or snakes centered and press, the expansion of the silicone sheet actually helps move the oil away from the heated plant material. it took a minute to figure the thermal compensation for the silicone sheets but now have it all dialed in.

im sure you have all seen the Hardpress on IG pumping out rivers of oil.

ringo can you do a plate like the one you have in the picture, and only heat the center area, so maybe soild for the indented heating area, and then as you go further out relieve the underside of the element to be like heat sink, this would provide a cooler area for the oil to run to?
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
I don't use silicone (yet) but I would think that because we are ingesting it, we would want something that's classified as "food safe".

Maybe some of the sil users will chime is here.
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
ringo can you do a plate like the one you have in the picture, and only heat the center area, so maybe soild for the indented heating area, and then as you go further out relieve the underside of the element to be like heat sink, this would provide a cooler area for the oil to run to?

I am pretty open in my setup. I can arrange the bottom heaters any way I want but the top ones are epoxied down.

I'll see what I can do next time I press and post the results.

If it's running toward cold, I wonder what it might do with ice touching the plate's edge right after the heated press. I'll try that too.
 

Grow Tech

I've got a stalk of sinsemilla growing in my back
Veteran
Seems like a peltier device could be an answer. Provide heat to the squish zone while cooling a collection area just off the squish zone
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
has anyone tried a clothing iron to do this ? Obviously not double sided like the hair straightener , but wonder if it would work none the less .
 

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