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slow---
that sucks. it's too bad cause the 5"x5" seems like a decent machine. i hope it arrives soon for ya!
ya i've had some crazy sap results before, just as you said, strain dependent. i think it is a terps thing. i've heard/read certain terpenes are non polar solvents.
maybe when you've got a bit more force you can try those strains with more pressure and less heat and see if they wont' budder a bit for you.
i'll have more trim from my chemx that was way sappy to run in a month or so, so i'll have more feedback then!
ras---
glad you're getting into the squish! it's the future imo.
if you wanna kick ass outta the gate you ought to go back and read as much of this thread as you can. all of your questions have been answered (some as recently as a couple pages back!).
...i hope that press works out!
that sucks. it's too bad cause the 5"x5" seems like a decent machine. i hope it arrives soon for ya!
ya i've had some crazy sap results before, just as you said, strain dependent. i think it is a terps thing. i've heard/read certain terpenes are non polar solvents.
maybe when you've got a bit more force you can try those strains with more pressure and less heat and see if they wont' budder a bit for you.
i'll have more trim from my chemx that was way sappy to run in a month or so, so i'll have more feedback then!
ras---
glad you're getting into the squish! it's the future imo.
if you wanna kick ass outta the gate you ought to go back and read as much of this thread as you can. all of your questions have been answered (some as recently as a couple pages back!).
...i hope that press works out!
hehe.
if it doesn't i'll start a fuck this Rosin press T-shirt company.
I just thought i saw some guy grinding and filling a Marker sized 25 micron pouch somewhat in the shape of a bubblenow workbag if you will.
I read the thread diagonally, might go on and brush up on it...
peace
rm
if it doesn't i'll start a fuck this Rosin press T-shirt company.
I just thought i saw some guy grinding and filling a Marker sized 25 micron pouch somewhat in the shape of a bubblenow workbag if you will.
I read the thread diagonally, might go on and brush up on it...
peace
rm
Has anyone done any experiments around seeing if pressing bud with or against the 'grain' makes any difference?I feel like I get much closer to all it has to give when I squish thumbnail sized pieces , orientating the bud so that the stem would be going vertically between the plates,rather than aligning the bud so the stem is laying horizontally down the plates.
I've tried to think of a more concise and easy to understand way of writing this post but I am not sure I have made a great job of it.Think of the difference between say driving a stake down into the ground,and laying a hotdog into a bun...
I've tried to think of a more concise and easy to understand way of writing this post but I am not sure I have made a great job of it.Think of the difference between say driving a stake down into the ground,and laying a hotdog into a bun...
Ras - I wouldn't grind the material for the same reason you don't want to do that with bho. More exposed surface area of sheared plant material. I take my time and break the flower up by hand into little marble sized flowerlets.
Sift and hash will work fine. The more melty then the more molecular activity so in my theory you'd need less heat and pressure but I don't have any data to back that. But I have pressed lots of sift.
Chronic diddle - I understand, yeah that actually might help but too hard to deal with on a larger scale.
And a quick political plug for all cali residents...
https://instagram.com/p/8qld5zt7Ja/
The csaa is ready to go! Print it, sign it, mail it in! Is was written in easy to understand language and fits on a single piece of paper! Let's destroy the bad bills together in 2016!
Sift and hash will work fine. The more melty then the more molecular activity so in my theory you'd need less heat and pressure but I don't have any data to back that. But I have pressed lots of sift.
Chronic diddle - I understand, yeah that actually might help but too hard to deal with on a larger scale.
And a quick political plug for all cali residents...
https://instagram.com/p/8qld5zt7Ja/
The csaa is ready to go! Print it, sign it, mail it in! Is was written in easy to understand language and fits on a single piece of paper! Let's destroy the bad bills together in 2016!
thanks for taking the time to indulge me bro.
Isn't the thing with bho completely about minimizing the ratio of fats lipids and waxes extracted by the solvent? Whereas the more selective mechanical separation via mesh of oils from their solid counterparts would not bring up such a problem?
Sorry for rambling on. i am going back to the back of the class till that press comes in and shutting up...lol.
bless up
Isn't the thing with bho completely about minimizing the ratio of fats lipids and waxes extracted by the solvent? Whereas the more selective mechanical separation via mesh of oils from their solid counterparts would not bring up such a problem?
Sorry for rambling on. i am going back to the back of the class till that press comes in and shutting up...lol.
bless up
With bho it's all about color, atleast it was for me. Mashed up material, or over packing or ram rod style packing always gave way darker color. I can't really see how not grinding with bho would help dewax at all...? If you dripped your solvent temps to subzero that would certainly help. Idk 100% I wouldn't ever claim to be a cls master.
it might be ok with rosin, I'd just make sure your material isn't bone dry. I'd rather have less micro material filling in micro channels and hindering oil flow.
Heaters have arrived and am currently testing the circular set I had ordered.
Build quality seems to be very good and consistent across all heaters without defects. I'll have to look them all over further but at first glance they seem top notch although I am no expert on the matter
.
If testing works out I'll give you guys a link to the supplier if you are interested.
My current plan to test these is to weigh each heater to make sure they are in and around a specific weight. Next will be to check for defects or warping or off sizing. Then I'll take the heaters and see where each of their lowest temps lay with the Dimmer controls Ringo was kind enough to post about. Let me know if you guys can think of anything else useful for checking quality.
Build quality seems to be very good and consistent across all heaters without defects. I'll have to look them all over further but at first glance they seem top notch although I am no expert on the matter
. If testing works out I'll give you guys a link to the supplier if you are interested.
My current plan to test these is to weigh each heater to make sure they are in and around a specific weight. Next will be to check for defects or warping or off sizing. Then I'll take the heaters and see where each of their lowest temps lay with the Dimmer controls Ringo was kind enough to post about. Let me know if you guys can think of anything else useful for checking quality.
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What are those? Too thin for PTC's. Thick film?
These are the MCH heaters I've been blabbing about for a while now
. It's the same resistance style heating as a ptc but its more contained. Smaller, stronger, more efficient, and safer. I'll try and find a site with info regarding them. I like them so far tho. I'll be doing more tests after work today.
Cool, thanks, I found info on them. Looks like they are the new tech that replaced the PTC flavor that I am using.
I see these for sale on eBay but they run $10 to $12 each. China suppliers were a little less.
How do you plan to attach them to your metal plates? What king of metal are you using?
I see these for sale on eBay but they run $10 to $12 each. China suppliers were a little less.
How do you plan to attach them to your metal plates? What king of metal are you using?
greyfox:
Nice heaters, that is what I had in mind before getting impatient and going the ptc route.
Nice heaters, that is what I had in mind before getting impatient and going the ptc route.
i think they're using smaller versions of those as the new heating element tech in portable wax vaporizers.
are they cast in ceramic?
are they cast in ceramic?
It is a combination of metal and ceramic, sintered to make a solid block. Great idea.
I was reading some of the datasheets on these and they will get red hot at full power. I am curious as to what encasement method you're going to use. If you don't enclose them, it seems like most of the heat will simply dissipate off the ceramic.
I was reading some of the datasheets on these and they will get red hot at full power. I am curious as to what encasement method you're going to use. If you don't enclose them, it seems like most of the heat will simply dissipate off the ceramic.
@Heady_blunts i believe you are correct in that assumption. Ive seen a few mch heaters that were a hollowed cylinder shape and I thought they would be perfect to make a vaporizer with.
@Ringo my plan at the moment is to cover the electrical leads and house them in an aluminum block. machining on the aluminum will be flush for the heaters and the metal should expand to clamp them down. Thats how i see it going down atleast. Gonna be machining a new plate today.
@Ringo my plan at the moment is to cover the electrical leads and house them in an aluminum block. machining on the aluminum will be flush for the heaters and the metal should expand to clamp them down. Thats how i see it going down atleast. Gonna be machining a new plate today.
I didn't have time to test all the heaters today, but am working on testing 2 rectangular ones to see where there lowest temp lies. The circular ones seem to be around 150f with the Variable speed controller. I'm hoping to get over to an electronics supply store tomorrow and grab some parts to put together a controller with quick disconnects all around for the power to and from the box.
Why do you need quick connects? It's a super inexpensive controller, people don't need to own just one controller and have seperate platen sets, unless the platens are of different sizes, but come on, they can pay the extra 30 dollars or whatever for another controller. Adding a bunch of quick cconnects makes things less simple and more complicated and increases the work and materials. If the controller setup was like 500$, then I'd think differently. Just plug it in, it's all.good. who's gonna even really want to take it apart to store it or something? Fools not even gonna be turning the damned power off, be like, "pressing all night son! This fox shit is dope yo!"
The reason I'm wanting quick connects is mainly for the heater side of the controller. If I have quick connects on the points from the heaters then I can easily sell the heaters with or without controls and it also allows for more flexibility by adding in a second controller. Mainly in case something breaks its easily replaced. 4 pieces on my end which are easy to wire in and it creates a much more free unit to work with and fix on the user end.
greyfox dunno why i missed a week of IG updates but it was fun catching up last night! you got a lot of progress made. i'm psyched about these MCH heaters. thanks for sharing your research!
