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MotherLode Gardens 2017

plantingplants

Active member
Cbcool, Lol a bit extreme? No offense but that was some reefer madness right there- scare mongering with no facts or evidence + fake facts inserted. But I get it- when we talk about things that affect our health it's serious as fuck.

But, it says right on the label, "do not use on vegetables. .., do not use on plants intended for feed or forage... do not use on fruits or nuts..."

1) spiromesifen is approved for use on food crops and on some you can safely spray it 3 days before harvest, but that particular formulation (higher strength Forbid) is not approved. The only difference is how many ml per gallon you use. Like concetrated Conserve vs Monterey spinosad garden spray. Look at the Oberon label.

If you can't eat it why would you want to smoke it? But thats just my logic.

So your standard for the safety or desirability of a foliar spray is whether or not you would eat it? Micronutrient sulfates? Hydrolyzed seafood waste products? Guano? Compost tea? We just have to be sure whAt we spray isn't going to end up on the flower end product.


Not to say we should just blindly trust that any pesticide is safe. Organic or not, we should minimize their use and avoid the gnarly ones, but Forbid/Oberon seems fine to me for now at least.


Easygoing, where is the banned list?
 

cbcool

Member
It was a poor choice of words in a reactionary moment, and I apologize.

PP, you said it well in your last paragraph.
 

40degsouth

Well-known member
Hey guys,
Like "EastBayGrower" said!! I remember reading (from memory) in the "Growing large plants outdoors" thread, maybe "Father Earth"??, that a potassium deficiency can manifest itself with the plant throwing lower laterals.
I had a similar situation,last year with a SSH dom Blue Dream that l bought back from the brink by adding sulphate of potash into weekly feeds.
This particular lateral didn't stack though??
I also had a funny, spongey, stem thing on two plants, that l've never seen before but diagnosed as some sort of fungal infection. I sprayed a milky, lime water solution daily and the plants healed at the site.
I have incorporated rocket and mustard greens into my winter cover crop because the mustards act as a natural fungicide and also decrease harmful nematode populations. I hope l don't see this ever again!!! :'(
On a lighter note l'm getting ready for a September kick off and l'm looking at acquiring some Bodhi gear. I need something that finishes at the end of September (March) to the 14th of October (April) and is mould resistant; any recommendations are much appreciated!!
What's l'm thinking is between Sky and White Lotus, Goji, Love Triangle and Dream Lotus???? I will add that not all Bodhi's strains are available.
 

40degsouth

Well-known member
Hey.
Sorry for the double post!! Beating myself up because l should have asked to be PM'd for this info so as not to clog the thread and now l'm not even sure if l can even ask.
Just getting a bit excited about joining in.
Sorry if l've done the wrong thing!
 
As far as your growth tips drooping at the top of the plant and the rest of the plant looks healthy. My thoughts this would be related to sap pressure in the plant. Might need to increase your micro nutrients. Could be not enough boron. I was having that same issue and with heavy micropak dosing brought the plant completely out of it within 10 days. Not enough energy is getting to your growth tips.

Your russet mite issue is a super bummer, i know first hand how stressful that can be, you will get through with a strong harvest just stay up on the sprays. Do not spray harsh chems on those beauties you will ruin them. The farm i took over this season had a major broad mite issue that destroyed his whole crop last year, so as a preventive i used consistent doses of the essential oil spray by Agri-Dynamics Phytoguard when they were young before dropped in the mounds. It has kept the plants healthy and clean up to this point. As we transition I've done one more treatment yesterday with the essential oils and one more next week and that should be good for the season cross my fingers.

Ive had a friend couple months back warn me on using sulfur sprays and then an oil. He burned the shit out of his plants with a sulfur followed by a neem oil at 2 week intervals.(Precaution) test spray maybe?

But for russets either Nuke' em or Essential oils or both at consistent intervals. with the nuke em spray at night and make sure the plants are good and hydrated before use.
But like Easy said spray those fuckers everyday if you can, they will reproduce on 3 day intervals and not every lil fucker is reproducing on the same day. they are so small that its hard to hit every part of the plant with a single spray.

Years ago I burned my plants using nuke em, so I'm very careful with that shit. i prefer the oils for now.

good luck man, sorry for the added stress. People don't understand what it takes to grow high end organic herb. Great fucking job BYTW
 

redlaser

Active member
Veteran
The random branch/ top loss could be physical damage from a rodent that takes a little time to show up. Probably a good possibility since you have gophers and what not.

Damage could happen to the plants with cages in the ground since the root system is beyond the cage now.
 

EasyGoing

Member
Happy tree farm is spot on. You can burn your plants with Nuke em, but only if your plants are dried out, or if they are over fed. Both of which don't seem to be Screws issue, however very important.

Thanks happy tree
 

JOJO420

Active member
Veteran
The borg

The borg

Unsolicited advice...
Try amazing Dr Zymes instead of Nuke 'em
It works.
Cost is way, way less... like 2/3 discount
2.5 gallons cost 159.99 where I am.
It is the only thing I spray , except foliar feed microbes and micros :)
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
Hey schrews keep your head up, you have a really nice looking crop this year, no ones perfect and having these issues is just part of farming. Heres my take / opinions on your issues...

1. What's EC of soil? You said your not feeding those plants very much? Im guessing your battery has run out in your soil, those are big plants. This can cause a droopy look on new growth. Last year my full season plants in 1000g beds hogged through everything by right around this time and it was time for fertigations

2. I see lower branches do this every season on even really healthy plants. Its not going to effect the other parts of plant, dont worry. If it was fusarium your whole plant would look like shit. There was a small thread on insta last year and meangenefrommendocino said the following which makes sense to me- "i get this most commonly when the stem sort of kinks the cambium layer on the bottom side where the bulk of nutrients are carried. most common on the lowest six branches, and so i remove those at the baby stage, then i tie the branches near the base up to the plant to make sure they maintain the correct angle. Some strains are more resistant to the problem than others"

3. I got hit with russets last season im guessing around this time, mainly on my big blue dreams. I didnt even really realize what it was until like october 7th... they did their damage, but i only estimate 30% loss of yield. Since than I alternate PFR-97 @ 14 ounces per 50gallons, and Grandevo @ 30ml per gallon. I spray twice a week during their younger lives when plants are small and it doesnt take as long. I mix my foliar nutrients in with these things as well.

You can order grandevo and PFR97 at 7 springs. Save some money and get the 20lb of grandevo instead of 5lb bags. http://www.7springsfarm.com/grandevo-wdg-20-lb-ds/

I'm going to try to start using this recipe that essential ground posted a while back as well because it can be made at home for pretty cheap...

"HOLY SAUCE
30-35% sicilic acid (agsil16h is 85% sicilic acid)
.5% lemongrass oil
.5% clove oil
.5% rosemary oil
Be sure your essential oils are organic.
To one gallon of clean h20.

apply at a dilution rate of 1% once a week. Apply to undersides of leaves and thoroughly wet the new growth if you have russet or broad mites. I normally start off with a dilution rate of .5% twice a week. Then up to one percent once a week. Sicilic acid is a well documented pesticide when applied at the proper concentrations. Check out SILMATRIX by Certis the same company that makes PFR97 this is a DIY with added essential oils."
 

reppin2c

Well-known member
Veteran
Damn you guys go hardcore with the pesticides.

Early winter I fought some mites I brought in on cuts. I used a product called trifecta and boost.
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
The random branch/ top loss could be physical damage from a rodent that takes a little time to show up. Probably a good possibility since you have gophers and what not.

Damage could happen to the plants with cages in the ground since the root system is beyond the cage now.
top droop/yellowing is a recurring problem , happened in past seasons when i had pots made of hardware cloth so i doubt it's from subterranean rodents. I'm pretty sure i've mentioned it in some of my old threads. the main top droops but all the lateral branches keep growing just fine. overwatering or soil imbalance perhaps, or a virus but that is less likely.

As far as your growth tips drooping at the top of the plant and the rest of the plant looks healthy. My thoughts this would be related to sap pressure in the plant. Might need to increase your micro nutrients. Could be not enough boron. I was having that same issue and with heavy micropak dosing brought the plant completely out of it within 10 days. Not enough energy is getting to your growth tips.
i've been doing foliar 1-2x weekly with micropak. it's possible there is still a micronutrient deficiency i suppose but i am reluctant to increase application rate of that particular product beyond the current amount.

Your russet mite issue is a super bummer, i know first hand how stressful that can be, you will get through with a strong harvest just stay up on the sprays. Do not spray harsh chems on those beauties you will ruin them. The farm i took over this season had a major broad mite issue that destroyed his whole crop last year, so as a preventive i used consistent doses of the essential oil spray by Agri-Dynamics Phytoguard when they were young before dropped in the mounds. It has kept the plants healthy and clean up to this point. As we transition I've done one more treatment yesterday with the essential oils and one more next week and that should be good for the season cross my fingers.

Ive had a friend couple months back warn me on using sulfur sprays and then an oil. He burned the shit out of his plants with a sulfur followed by a neem oil at 2 week intervals.(Precaution) test spray maybe?
most of the plants look clean still, and we are spraying wettable sulfur and essential oils every day this week. predator mites should arrive in the mail soon so we will stop spraying once they are introduced.

i never spray neem oil...
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
Hey schrews keep your head up, you have a really nice looking crop this year, no ones perfect and having these issues is just part of farming. Heres my take / opinions on your issues...

1. What's EC of soil? You said your not feeding those plants very much? Im guessing your battery has run out in your soil, those are big plants. This can cause a droopy look on new growth. Last year my full season plants in 1000g beds hogged through everything by right around this time and it was time for fertigations
you might be right. how do you determine soil EC again? i would love to figure out this problem, it's been driving me crazy for years.

2. I see lower branches do this every season on even really healthy plants. Its not going to effect the other parts of plant, dont worry. If it was fusarium your whole plant would look like shit. There was a small thread on insta last year and meangenefrommendocino said the following which makes sense to me- "i get this most commonly when the stem sort of kinks the cambium layer on the bottom side where the bulk of nutrients are carried. most common on the lowest six branches, and so i remove those at the baby stage, then i tie the branches near the base up to the plant to make sure they maintain the correct angle. Some strains are more resistant to the problem than others"
this makes perfect sense, thanks! i've talked to other growers who have seen the same thing. it's always the lower branches that die off and it doesnt seem to affect the rest of the plant. I've experienced it before but this year it happened a couple more times than usual.
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
3. I got hit with russets last season im guessing around this time, mainly on my big blue dreams. I didnt even really realize what it was until like october 7th... they did their damage, but i only estimate 30% loss of yield. Since than I alternate PFR-97 @ 14 ounces per 50gallons, and Grandevo @ 30ml per gallon. I spray twice a week during their younger lives when plants are small and it doesnt take as long. I mix my foliar nutrients in with these things as well.

You can order grandevo and PFR97 at 7 springs. Save some money and get the 20lb of grandevo instead of 5lb bags. https://www.7springsfarm.com/grandevo-wdg-20-lb-ds/

I'm going to try to start using this recipe that essential ground posted a while back as well because it can be made at home for pretty cheap...

"HOLY SAUCE
30-35% sicilic acid (agsil16h is 85% sicilic acid)
.5% lemongrass oil
.5% clove oil
.5% rosemary oil
Be sure your essential oils are organic.
To one gallon of clean h20.

apply at a dilution rate of 1% once a week. Apply to undersides of leaves and thoroughly wet the new growth if you have russet or broad mites. I normally start off with a dilution rate of .5% twice a week. Then up to one percent once a week. Sicilic acid is a well documented pesticide when applied at the proper concentrations. Check out SILMATRIX by Certis the same company that makes PFR97 this is a DIY with added essential oils."

thanks that is valuable info. i have PFR 97 but humidity is so low here i'm not sure it works. never heard of Grandevo , i'll look into it. i havent noticed any new mite damage since we first discovered it and started spraying the affected plants with wettable sulfur. i hope i caught them in time and can prevent any further losses.

Farming is a game of percentages and acceptable losses, i am well aware of that by now. I believe we can still reach our goal this season, but it is brutal watching our maximum potential dwindle day by day as problems pop up.

:dance013:
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
Seed Project..

Seed Project..

we found a beautiful tall, bushy, purple-stemmed Ancient OG f2 male planted accidentally in the native soil plot. Of course we had to kill it before it flowered and pollinated the whole garden , but his vigor and structure impressed us so i decided to save cuts and use his genes for out next seed project..

here it is before chop:
soMOBwTl.jpg


bVU9K99l.jpg



after chop:
bp2uoTPl.jpg




then we took clones of some keeper females from the native soil plot and a few mounds:
3Yxwp6sl.jpg



cuts labelled and ready for the cloner:
LRYyTHdl.jpg


list of some of the females that might get pollinated by our stud Ancient OG f2 purple-stem male:

-Space Monkey x Ancient OG
-Black Lime Reserve x Ancient OG
-Strawberry Milk x Ancient OG
-Ancient OG f2 , various phenos...
-Faceoff OG (archive seeds)
-Superstitious (bodhi seeds)
-South Fork Kush
 
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