MotherLode Gardens 2017
- Thread starter Shcrews
- Start date
Dankwolf
Active member
Top growth limp bottom groth ok = lack of feed plan and simple .
1# check ec
2# check ph
3# inspect feeder root's for possable issue
Solutions
1# ec is low and ph is on par = feed they are hungry
2# ec is good and ph is off = self explanatory
3# feeder root's are damaged due to bug/rodent/ fungel attack or lack of room due to environment factor's = treat infestation and or creat proper enviroment.
I am not fancy like slow but some times we need to start at square one . Just my two cents
No matter what ypu got me beat hands down
1# check ec
2# check ph
3# inspect feeder root's for possable issue
Solutions
1# ec is low and ph is on par = feed they are hungry
2# ec is good and ph is off = self explanatory
3# feeder root's are damaged due to bug/rodent/ fungel attack or lack of room due to environment factor's = treat infestation and or creat proper enviroment.
I am not fancy like slow but some times we need to start at square one . Just my two cents
No matter what ypu got me beat hands down
'Boogieman'
Well-known member
The only time I had a large plant do what your talking about screws I dug down in the soil and discovered the bed rock was only 3-4 feet down in the soil. I honestly doubt it's your problem though since your growing in mounds but for whatever reason if my plants hit bedrock here in Indiana my plants tops droop.
Amazing photos and that view, wow. Best of luck to you and your grow this year.
Amazing photos and that view, wow. Best of luck to you and your grow this year.
plantingplants
Active member
Take soil sample, mix 2:1 distilled water to soil, chill 15 min, pour water and soil through a filter into a cup (paper towel works), check with ppm meter. See what conversion factor your meter uses (Google brand and conversion factor) then convert to EC.
Important to note that you'll get different EC readings from different measurement methods so someone who uses a probe has a different reference point than someone who uses 2:1 or EC measured at a lab (SME).
But it'll at least give you an idea.
Important to note that you'll get different EC readings from different measurement methods so someone who uses a probe has a different reference point than someone who uses 2:1 or EC measured at a lab (SME).
But it'll at least give you an idea.
Looking good sir, keep up the great work
That plants a MONSTER! Great job this year guys!
maybe i should start using the horiba K meter that i bought last year.
All the snow lotus crosses i've grown finish by mid-october here, so that would be a good line obviously. Dream Lotus is a great one if you can still find seeds, and all the OG x Snow Lotus crosses (goji, ancient, skylotus, lotus larry, solo's stash). But dont limit yourself, check out some of bodhi's other genetic lines too, he has a great wookie male, and the 88G13hashplant crosses are all nice and chunky and finish quick...
what's a good EC probe to get? last one i had was a Hanna and that was 7 years ago.
the mite damage has not spread, we have been spraying daily with essential oils and wettable sulfur. 95% of the garden looks great. I still want to figure out how to fix the droop that a few of them have (and what is causing it).
It looks like flowering is about to start, everything is stretching like crazy. Some of the plants in the native soil plot are already forming buds and trichomes. More trellising needs to happen soon.
pictures from today...
Kaya's Dream (south fork seeds):
Dank Commander (rare dankness seeds):
It looks like flowering is about to start, everything is stretching like crazy. Some of the plants in the native soil plot are already forming buds and trichomes. More trellising needs to happen soon.
pictures from today...
Kaya's Dream (south fork seeds):
Dank Commander (rare dankness seeds):
plantingplants
Active member
Plants are lookin great dude. Idk how you have the willpower to foliar that much lmao.
Should ask Jidoka or slownickel about good ec probes. I don't use one so Idk.
Should ask Jidoka or slownickel about good ec probes. I don't use one so Idk.
https://customhydronutrients.com/soil-test-direct-soil-ec-tester-hi98331-p-889.html
Anything under 0.5 feed the fuck out of them
Anything under 0.5 feed the fuck out of them
Teh_Baker
Active member
Schrews i dont know how much acreage you've got over there, but keep an eye out. Im sure you've heard what happened on Oakie-hurst monday... if not
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=8024926#post8024926
Its a crazy world out there, i thought this shit would stop once weed was legalized...
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=8024926#post8024926
Its a crazy world out there, i thought this shit would stop once weed was legalized...
Is there anyway we could possibly get an upskirt shot at one of those monsters? I noticed your trellis don't make it all the way to the ground, If its possible to crawl underneath without fucking up your lines. Thanks. Talking about one of your plants also 
not your lady friend
not your lady friend
plantingplants
Active member
A 0.5 probe reading would be ~0.21 ec with the 2:1 method or 105 ppm on most ec meters.
Shcrews,
Have you seen an actual mite yet? Overwatering can cause yellowing on lower leaves and so can a phosphorus deficiency. It would be good to see a picture of what you're describing if there is any plant material left showing it. Besides yellowing or leaf drop, russet damage will show early as fluted leaf margins near the petiole:
Its crazy how common this problem is becoming and unsettling that even if you don't pick up clones you can bring them in with soil or on other people's clothing. I've been working for a few other people this year and have looked at a lot of clones under the scope, seeing russets from three different sources now. Zero last year when I was getting paid to inspect for dispensaries. The plant pictured above was stunted and had yellowing lower leaves. I knew they were feeding heavy so rules out N def right away, but the plant was purpling so it kinda looked like low P. The shape of the leaves gave it away though and the scope confirmed it.
Regarding the potential fungal issues I would say hemp canker first. I used to deal with it at an old property and the guaranteed way to not have it infect your plants is to crop rotate, treat the old soil with contans (I don't know if you can get it in OR anymore, maybe Cali still), plant some cover that isn't a target crop for the fungus (Sclerotinia sclerotiorum) like something in the grass family. You've been growing here for years now and once hemp canker is there, it's there indefinitely as long as you keep growing cannabis in the same soil. My old property had zero loss to it the first year, 5% plants infected the next, 20% third year, 45% the fourth year...
Keep in mind that it usually doesn't kill the plant, just reduces yield. Backyard was the one who pointed it out years ago. He had other ways to deal with it like digging up the stalks and burning them after harvest and I think covering mounds with more soil every year. Can't remember exactly. Anyway, you'll probably be fine like every year.
Have you seen an actual mite yet? Overwatering can cause yellowing on lower leaves and so can a phosphorus deficiency. It would be good to see a picture of what you're describing if there is any plant material left showing it. Besides yellowing or leaf drop, russet damage will show early as fluted leaf margins near the petiole:
Its crazy how common this problem is becoming and unsettling that even if you don't pick up clones you can bring them in with soil or on other people's clothing. I've been working for a few other people this year and have looked at a lot of clones under the scope, seeing russets from three different sources now. Zero last year when I was getting paid to inspect for dispensaries. The plant pictured above was stunted and had yellowing lower leaves. I knew they were feeding heavy so rules out N def right away, but the plant was purpling so it kinda looked like low P. The shape of the leaves gave it away though and the scope confirmed it.
Regarding the potential fungal issues I would say hemp canker first. I used to deal with it at an old property and the guaranteed way to not have it infect your plants is to crop rotate, treat the old soil with contans (I don't know if you can get it in OR anymore, maybe Cali still), plant some cover that isn't a target crop for the fungus (Sclerotinia sclerotiorum) like something in the grass family. You've been growing here for years now and once hemp canker is there, it's there indefinitely as long as you keep growing cannabis in the same soil. My old property had zero loss to it the first year, 5% plants infected the next, 20% third year, 45% the fourth year...
Keep in mind that it usually doesn't kill the plant, just reduces yield. Backyard was the one who pointed it out years ago. He had other ways to deal with it like digging up the stalks and burning them after harvest and I think covering mounds with more soil every year. Can't remember exactly. Anyway, you'll probably be fine like every year.
plantingplants
Active member
To add to that description, when there are high populations the plant has a reddish-brownish-tan haze to it. IME it starts from the bottom up. With 100x you can see the fuckers clear as day. They look like torpedoes, a long taper to a sharp point at their butt, legs in front.
They not only hitch rides on whiteflys, birds, soil, and clothes, but they are actively introduced into the environment by counties as biological control of certain weeds.
Orechron is there any way to confirm hemp canker? Microscope? Visual inspection?
They not only hitch rides on whiteflys, birds, soil, and clothes, but they are actively introduced into the environment by counties as biological control of certain weeds.
Orechron is there any way to confirm hemp canker? Microscope? Visual inspection?
