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MotherLode Gardens 2017

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
Shcrews,

Have you seen an actual mite yet? Overwatering can cause yellowing on lower leaves and so can a phosphorus deficiency. It would be good to see a picture of what you're describing if there is any plant material left showing it.

i'll get a picture soon. it's definitely russet mites or something similar, the damage looks exactly like most of the images on google... dead brown growth tips and tacoed leaves... I looked at a branch with mite damage under a 100x microscope and saw several of the tiny fuckers crawling around on the stem. been spraying everyday with wettable sulfur and essential oils, seems to have stopped the problem from spreading. The damaged plants seem to be improving too. I think/hope we caught the problem early enough to avoid any significant losses. going to keep spraying daily until the predator mites arrive in the mail.

Regarding the potential fungal issues I would say hemp canker first. I used to deal with it at an old property and the guaranteed way to not have it infect your plants is to crop rotate, treat the old soil with contans (I don't know if you can get it in OR anymore, maybe Cali still), plant some cover that isn't a target crop for the fungus (Sclerotinia sclerotiorum) like something in the grass family. You've been growing here for years now and once hemp canker is there, it's there indefinitely as long as you keep growing cannabis in the same soil. My old property had zero loss to it the first year, 5% plants infected the next, 20% third year, 45% the fourth year...
i like Mean Gene's explanation better. i dont think the plants have a fungal infection because they seem to be growing just fine , no problems since i pulled off the wilting lower branches.

hemp canker scares me , i hope we dont have it. will any labs accept tissue samples to confirm its presence?

...
HThere was a small thread on insta last year and meangenefrommendocino said the following which makes sense to me- "i get this most commonly when the stem sort of kinks the cambium layer on the bottom side where the bulk of nutrients are carried. most common on the lowest six branches, and so i remove those at the baby stage, then i tie the branches near the base up to the plant to make sure they maintain the correct angle. Some strains are more resistant to the problem than others"
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
Is there anyway we could possibly get an upskirt shot at one of those monsters? I noticed your trellis don't make it all the way to the ground, If its possible to crawl underneath without fucking up your lines. Thanks. Talking about one of your plants also ;) not your lady friend
sure soon i'lll take a picture of the center of a plant... we can get in under the trellis easily.


Hey Shcrews howd you get those so big and bushy did you LST them really early on or what? and how long were they in veg for? They are gonna be some nice yielding plants.
cheers
it's not me, it's the genetics and the climate. we did very little to affect the growth/structure of the plants. Inner cage training is helpful and also pulling branches thru the trellis, but thats about it. no topping , tying or bending.
 

Shcrews

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Veteran
Plants are lookin great dude. Idk how you have the willpower to foliar that much lmao.
not much else to do up here.


Everybody that takes in stray clones ought to have a sulfur burner running over their clones for at least 2 weeks. Not a lot, just a layer or two. No russets beyond that point

i'm never taking in clones again. and if i do i'm sprayin the hell out of em.
 
How many gallons are you spraying to cover the garden? A larger sprayer w/ more tank volume may help to get more efficiency from the S. Are you spraying oils at same time? Been using a blend called Trifecta myself? I have often wondered if oils+sulfur=burn is a myth because I have done both back to back w/ no issues.
 

EasyGoing

Member
Agree Canna. It's Neem or Karana (sp) that will fry. Essential oils don't seem to.

What bugs you using Trifecta on? Broad Mites?
 

Lyfespan

Active member
i cant say enough for Regalia and Grandevo its been doing the dam thing here, just had a butt load of clones that needed quarantine and they're looking great now
 

Noonin NorCal

Active member
Veteran
How about green lacewings? anyone ever try em? Ive heard that they eat 10 x more then ladybugs or something like that
 

Davesnothere420

Active member
For whatever reason i can never see the last two pages of this forum, is that like a new member thing or is my computer just being retarded.
 

TheOutlawTree

Active member
I'm pretty sure russets are still around my crops even though I'm at new property and spraying a lot. Trouble is I've scoped for 6+ hours and haven't seen them , makes me wonder.

Wanted to also say if using grandevo use a wetting agent such as oroboost and ph to 6.5 , that's what the rep told me. They also make a product called venerate xc , this one doesn't need any specific ph and is more of a contact killer rather than needing to be ingested like the grandevo.

For next round I'll also use sulfur until week 2 and switch to grandevo, venerate, pfr-97 and essential oils for flower
 

Lyfespan

Active member
I'm pretty sure russets are still around my crops even though I'm at new property and spraying a lot. Trouble is I've scoped for 6+ hours and haven't seen them , makes me wonder.

Wanted to also say if using grandevo use a wetting agent such as oroboost and ph to 6.5 , that's what the rep told me. They also make a product called venerate xc , this one doesn't need any specific ph and is more of a contact killer rather than needing to be ingested like the grandevo.

For next round I'll also use sulfur until week 2 and switch to grandevo, venerate, pfr-97 and essential oils for flower

regalia worx as a wetting agent :tiphat::tiphat

rotate grandevo and venerate
 

Shcrews

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Veteran
Which pred mites are you getting? Did you match em to your climate?
i ordered swirskii mites. no i didn't check about matching the climate. hopefully they work, or i can order different ones. any recommendations?


Are you going to keep adding soil every year and making mounds bigger and bigger?
we didn't add soil to the old mounds this year, just made a few new ones. i dont know what the plan is for next year yet, we'll see...

happy birthday man
thanks! had a good one, chilled on the farm and got high as a kite:laughing::thank you:
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
How many gallons are you spraying to cover the garden? A larger sprayer w/ more tank volume may help to get more efficiency from the S. Are you spraying oils at same time? Been using a blend called Trifecta myself? I have often wondered if oils+sulfur=burn is a myth because I have done both back to back w/ no issues.
Takes about 45 gallons to cover the garden. I have a bigger sprayer but heard the atomizer is best for spraying sulfer.

not spraying oils at the same time, but alternating between sulfur and essential oils every other day. seems to be working.

here is a branch with visible mite damage:
pfu2x2ml.jpg



this was a very damaged branch , but was sprayed for a few days and is now seeming to recover. notice the white hairs are returning and new green growth is emerging at the tip.:
IYZhLq1l.jpg
 

Limeygreen

Well-known member
Veteran
Swirskii is expansive and usually prefers thrips and whiteflies it can eat some spidermites and russet mites. Cucumeris would be cheaper it is generally a thrips predator, andersonii supposedly can get the russet mites, facilis may be another option. I have been told none of them really work that well on russet mites from the biological companies but if you put enough they should do something. Swirskii works better in higher temperatures until below 14 degrees C, cucumeris doesn't like heat as much.
 
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