That's the exact reason I went with amended native soil this year. it cost me next to nothing in the cost of amendments and the girls are happy, healthy, and thriving.
MotherLode Gardens 2017
- Thread starter Shcrews
- Start date
That's the exact reason I went with amended native soil this year. it cost me next to nothing in the cost of amendments and the girls are happy, healthy, and thriving.
HappyTreeFarm
Member
Is that 30ml of each Mac and Mic? or combined 30ml
pretty much exactly what I'm feeding with, except not nearly at that high of a rate. planted between june 1-5 cold nights make it hard to plant earlier up here
amazing garden schrews something to inspire to.
thanks! yah 30ml each of holomac and holomic is what ive been doing.
thats weird. i dont expect anything to flower here for another month or so
No i use the tainio stuff to get the microbiology going, that is how i was taught. Pepzyme and spectrum extra for root drench and micro5k and pz1000 for foliar.
i'm constantly trying to change for the better, usually without success.
South fork stuff did great last year. Hardy plants with good vigor, they have never displayed any deficiencies for me. Good plant structure all around, chunky buds with lots of flavor and frost. All the South Fork seeds i've grown were made with their chemdog male so really the only thing you have to consider when growing their gear is what female they used.
Now that your trellis is up, will you stop thinning out the insides? Looks like it would be a pain in the ass trying to reach all the way in there. Looks freaking amazing as always Shcrews
Ibechillin
Masochist Educator
I feel you there man, makes you wonder.
"The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again expecting different results."
- Albert Einstein
I have read this from IAG. Curious if you (or anyone else) has done tests to verify it? Here are a few posts where John Frank talks about this concept:
Just like foods are divided between two groups, so are minerals divided between those that promote growth and those that promote a reproductive response in plants. Growth energy causes plants to grow more vegetation. For example, plants send out new leaves, stalks, and stems. Reproductive energy causes a blooming response in plants. Here you see new blossoms, flowers, and pod set.
All plants require a combination of both types of energy, but the ratio changes according to crop physiology. Let's take an example. If you grow spinach to eat, you want growth energy to dominate reproductive energy in order to produce more leafy greens. If your goal is to produce spinach seed to sell, you want reproductive energy to dominate over growth energy. This balance of energy is accomplished primarily by the ratios of the available nutrients in the soil. It is also strongly influenced by foliar sprays.
Remember in my last email I said that soybeans do not need as high of a calcium level as most crops. Why? They are a strongly reproductive crop. From midsummer on, a soybean plant puts out new pods. A lower calcium soil is generally going to be dominated by reproductive energy. Once you understand this theory you can see that a soil very high in calcium and low in phosphates is not ideal for soybeans. To compensate, a strong reproductive spray is applied to send the plant into a reproductive state. Just do this when there is enough energy (conductivity) in the soil as outlined in email number 2. For those interested; the spray we use is a combination of Bloomit and WayAhead 7X.
Here is how the nutrients break out by their energetic association:
Growth Energy
Nitrate Nitrogen
Sodium
Chlorides
Potassium
Calcium
Reproductive Energy
All other forms of nitrogen except nitrates
Phosphates
Sulfates
All organic fertilizers
All trace minerals
I didn't get to calcium as I wanted to, but instead laid its foundation by looking at the theory of growth vs. fruiting energy. Maybe I will get to it in my next email.
Jon
The basic principle of growth vs. fruiting energy in soil is that both need to be closely matched but slightly skewed one way or the other depending on the crop being raised. Think of a teeter totter. If you want more growth energy this side should be up. If you want reproductive energy then the other side should be up. A teeter totter works when both sides weigh nearly the same. If one side has 100 lbs. and the other side 300 lbs. it doesn't work well. If one side has 30 lbs. and the other side 300 lbs. it doesn't work at all.
By bringing up growth energy we are evening out the teeter totter so to speak. Growth energy is derived from nitrates, sodium, chlorides, potassium, and calcium. These nutrients work against the reproductive nutrients in soil to create chemical friction or energy. So how much sodium and chloride should you have in soil? Very little. This is the same as salt in food. Too much is definitely not good. What about nitrates? Some is good but more is detrimental. How much potassium should the soil have? About 200 lbs. per acre for most crops. Double or triple that for potassium loving crops. More than this interferes with calcium's job to build healthy cell walls so extremes in potassium should be avoided. What is left? That's right: calcium. Here is a rule you can take to the bank;
Calcium is the primary growth energy element.
The problem with most soils is that available calcium is way undersupplied. Perhaps your soil only has one third to one half of what is needed. When the calcium level is brought to its desired level, many other things work better.
Let's express this from another angle. The growth energy from available calcium interacts more efficiently with the reproductive energy that may already be present. This creates more overall energy in the soil leading to increased crop production. In gardens, produce tastes better and yields more when calcium is abundantly supplied. Your passport into this world is a soil test from International Ag Labs.
Day 16: Nitrogen is Nitrogen, Right?
"Wrong!" says Dr. Reams.
"Nitrogen can be growth energy or reproductive energy depending on molecular configuration."
When nitrogen is in the nitrate form it creates growth energy in plants and soil. Reproductive energy comes in the form of ammoniacal, urea, or organic nitrogen. This dual form of energy for nitrogen makes it the most confusing element to consider when looking at energy.
A basic principle to always remember is that plant growth is all about energy.
You create this energy by reacting growth energy against reproductive energy according to the crop being grown.
Let's take a few examples to clarify this concept. We had a wheat grower who decided to spray his wheat with a few gallons of liquid calcium nitrate. Unfortunately this resulted in a significant yield decline. Fortunately International Ag Labs did not suggest this.So what happened?
Liquid calcium nitrate is a double growth energy fertilizer. Both calcium and nitrogen in the nitrate form push plants and soils with growth energy. Regrettably the farmer sprayed his wheat just at the time the kernel count was being determined. The growth energy from the calcium nitrate pushed the wheat plants more toward growth energy and away from reproductive energy. What the plants really needed was a reproductive spray to increase kernel set.
Here is another example: A grower with a field of canning tomatoes sought to maximize his harvest of tomatoes all at picking time. To do this he kept his soil on the growth side longer by using growth energy products such as calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate. The result were large tomato plants and thick stalks but not a tomato anywhere. The canning company field rep was getting worried.
At the right time the farmer switched his soil from growth to reproductive and turned his field yellow with blossoms overnight. How did he do this? By using reproductive fertilizers and foliar sprays. These caused the soil and plants to switch from growth to reproductive. How can this be done? Simple - broadcast some ammonium sulfate, 11-52-0 or urea. Then spray the plants with a dilute reproductive spray made from household ammonia, phosphoric acid, vinegar etc. The broadcast switches the soil while the foliar spray switched the plants.
Once a large bunch of tomatoes were set and beginning to develop, the farmer switched back to growth energy dominance. Why? Because growth energy is also bulking energy. Now the farmer wanted to size up the tomatoes. By keeping growth energy dominant he was able to stop new blossoms from developing. What was the end result? A large harvest of tomatoes all ripening at nearly the same time.
Last example: You manage conventional turf. What nitrogen source should you use? The standard practice is to use urea. Urea is a 100% reproductive energy. Turf is a crop that needs growth energy dominance. This means urea is the exact opposite energy of what should be supplied. Organically managed turf using compost or some other organic nitrogen does the same thing. Too much reproductive energy. The answer is to use calcium nitrate.
So is nitrogen just nitrogen? No it is a very specific energy that can influence the soil/plant in the direction you wish.
I am only at n= 3 so proof...not really. But multiple strains and 3 side bys. I should now be able to get up to 12 weeks flower. Hoping for a significant quality improvement
Btw...there are other "energies" at play. Have you considered direction of vortex? Infusing that vortex with infrared energy?
Btw...there are other "energies" at play. Have you considered direction of vortex? Infusing that vortex with infrared energy?
Lots' of what Frank writes is correct, as it is taken from Reams. Unfortunately, a lot of other stuff he writes is quite off as it came from Dan Skow and others....
Jon has admitted many times over the adulteration that the folks at IAG have made to Reams.
Unfortunately, most folks can't distinguish between the good and bad info that he pushes.
His nitrate comments are correct. Nitrate pushes veg. Why? Because nitrates allow the plant to pick up 4 Ca for ever 2 K. Ammonia or organic nitrogen for that matter, is the signal for the plant to flower, as the plant can only pick up 2 Ca for every 2 K. A definite signal for the plant to "mature" and flower.
Been practicing that concept for years on melons to set two good harvests! Works great!
Congratulations on advancing on your learning curve.
Read Anderson and then you tell me what you think....
I'm 3 weeks behind Shcrews in the garden due to adding more raised beds. I've just finished repairs to the drip lines, put down straw mulch. Now I'm caught between doing the second round of interior pruning (ugh) -or- badly needed trellis. Luckily I use 8' bamboo poles in the raised beds to support the trellis. Driving T-posts would prob near kill me. (I do admire Shcrews youth / vigor!) I guess I'll have to do additional pruning after the trellis is up (3x ugh).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KL4LVI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
When you can't reach inside the trellis easily, and during harvest.
For pre-flower pruning, I actually like the looks of that! Its kinda a Spec-Ops Sniper pruner. Price is right if its a no-go. For harvest? No... I use a chainsaw and hang the bitch.
for anyone copying my foliar recipe, i messed up on the ferti-nitro dosage it should be about 3-5grams/gallon.
Been putting down a lot of straw mulch on the mounds but it's really not enough to keep the bermuda grass at bay unless we layer it incredibly thick, at least one straw bale per mound. otherwise the grass just finds its way through. Might try wood chips for mulch on a few mounds where the grass is really bad, or gorilla hair.
Driving t-posts did damn near kill me. At least i had help. Definitely gonna figure out something else for next year. I'm not that young i'll be 30 next month but still feeling vigorous, must be all the primo ganja.
We will do one more round of pruning soon. makes twice total this season,.. what was once outer growth is now inner growth.
Do the trellis first then the pruning. i think you already know that. i havent even started my 2nd round of pruning but trellis is done for now. Still patching dripline here. had some minor issues because of that, but most of the garden is looking absolutely perfect.
Been putting down a lot of straw mulch on the mounds but it's really not enough to keep the bermuda grass at bay unless we layer it incredibly thick, at least one straw bale per mound. otherwise the grass just finds its way through. Might try wood chips for mulch on a few mounds where the grass is really bad, or gorilla hair.
Driving t-posts did damn near kill me. At least i had help. Definitely gonna figure out something else for next year. I'm not that young i'll be 30 next month but still feeling vigorous, must be all the primo ganja.
i'm starting to think maybe i just expect things to improve at an unrealistic pace. it's hard to see change when it takes years, and without persistence it would be impossible. Too many people want rapid change or a quick fix and if they dont see things working right away (often while ignoring advice) they will just move on to the next supposed solution to their problems
