What do you think about heat pads? is bottom heat really necessary?
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MotherLode Gardens 2016
- Thread starter Shcrews
- Start date
Im pretty stoked this year we will be running some Sour Bubble. A buddy of mine has a binder/collection full to the brim with seed. He said i could pick a pack, i asked for something indica dom that won't stretch much cause of our neighboring fences are only 8 feet tall
RedneckBuddha
Member
Impressive Thread Lodes of Information & Great Pics too!!!!
Lost too much last year. The plan this year is to go big...right now running a 1000 sqft hoophouse with three rows. The the full season, I will do as much as permitted under the county but most likely 99 plants. Hoping to have a great season.
Awesome. I'm excited to hear about that. I've got his book on the way right now.
They will be way bound up in 7 gallons. If you can buy clones anytime, wait as long as possible. I don't even take cuttings until the second week of april. Big starts are a bitch to transplant, bloom easier and don't really have any benefits.
This is pretty much right. Full season clones should be cut in April. They should be fine in 7gal pots though for at least 4-6 weeks before they go in the ground. I start seeds in 4" pots for about 2 weeks, then the 7gal smarties for about 6 weeks , then into the ground. If you think your starts might get rootbound then you probably started them too soon. small young healthy starts will eventually outgrow larger rootbound ones
I don't use heat mats but I do have a heater in the room with my seedlings, keeping it at 72
stick around we just got started!
I've been all over the map, been a couple days since I was on the farm. The grass is almost 2 ft tall already! Gonna be a good year it seems, I want to meet up with you this season, , I went full hermit mode last yr
N
NewAgeGenetics
grow from seeds outdoors is a much easier way than grow from clones, but is it better?
How is easier different than better?
plantingplants
Active member
Thank you guys so much for helping me avoid that fuck up. It's such a blessing to have help from experienced folks. It's simple mistakes like that that can fuck a beginner up. I was about to get them today but I'm going to wait.
So if I have to plant them in the first week of June, getting them April 15th will give me 6 weeks. Perfect.
So if I have to plant them in the first week of June, getting them April 15th will give me 6 weeks. Perfect.
Yeah 7 gals would be good for mid april to June. I personally go from cloner, 2.4 gal air-pot, bed. My plants get in the GH right when they get out of the cloner the last week of april. Fill out their pot right at transplant and hit the ground running on June 1st.
Get them on whatever daytime schedule mimics your latitude for a 6/1 planting date.
I put mine on 16 hours of light right when they get in the GH. 5 am wake up, 9 pm bed time.
Get them on whatever daytime schedule mimics your latitude for a 6/1 planting date.
I put mine on 16 hours of light right when they get in the GH. 5 am wake up, 9 pm bed time.
I don't use heat mats but I do have a heater in the room with my seedlings, keeping it at 72[/QUOTE]
if you can keep the root zone at 72 plants will be popping - its not necessarily about heating the space as it keeping the root zone from getting too cold. thats why people elevate their pots in greenhouses, air circulation is secondary to keeping the root zone from absorbing cold from the ground.
heat mat thermostats break and end up overheating plants.
if you can keep the root zone at 72 plants will be popping - its not necessarily about heating the space as it keeping the root zone from getting too cold. thats why people elevate their pots in greenhouses, air circulation is secondary to keeping the root zone from absorbing cold from the ground.
heat mat thermostats break and end up overheating plants.
Shcrews, first off thank you for your time, energy, and generosity.... your threads have inspired me to follow your lead!!! I'm down in Fallbrook and would really love to participate in this season (newbie). that being said can you recommend a reputable place where i can acquire some Ancient OG seeds ?? You mentioned Kind Peoples, but i did not see it on their menue???
N
NewAgeGenetics
you know what I'm sayin' here is the amateurs grows from seeds.
all the professional guys uses selected clones.
easier to grow big plants from seeds btw. you just sow it some re-pot and ready. clone growing is much more complicated but you know what you grow.
all the professional guys uses selected clones.
easier to grow big plants from seeds btw. you just sow it some re-pot and ready. clone growing is much more complicated but you know what you grow.
plantingplants
Active member
B
BAKED_BEANZ
this is true ,
i,m trying to move to the middle ground , i want to start making my own s1 to grow outside with .
so atleast its a selected females , ( like a clone ) but more practical for ease of planting , rather than cloning and more predictable and consistent than a f1 , f2 .
@ shcrews , i see where your love of the ancient og comes from now . i have harvested 2 smaller plants today . very nice . it may just have it on the dragons blood after all . haha i think the buds of the AOG are a lot larger . the dragons blood defiantly bigger plant though .
AOG looks like a better smoke too at this stage .
RedneckBuddha
Member
Ancient OG
Redneck Buddha says relax and unwind let the vine elevate your mind.
Redneck Buddha says relax and unwind let the vine elevate your mind.
Did you ever hear what the issue was with the South Fork chem male someone mentioned a few pages back?
Been waiting for a restock of BYF's gear so I can see if all his talk and knowledge shows true in his seed lines. Best way to sort the hyperbole from the fact is to drop a few seeds.
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I'd imagine you've got this all figured out by now, but...
You should apply 1/2c boron per cu yd of soil...every 3rd year, on average. Check out Fertibor. Boron is leached more easily from sandy soils so is often applied yearly in fields with subsequent plantings of crops that require more of it - such as a spring crop of broccoli followed by a crop of tomatoes / peppers in the late summer and fall. Even then, you never want more than 2# per acre, as it can be toxic when over applied.
Sulfate of potash (0-0-50) - instead of Sul-Po-Mg - can be used in conjunction with kelp meal to add more potassium without out further increasing Mg levels.
Calcium bentonite, gypsum, elemental sulfur could also help balance things out a bit. Adding more calcium while helping prevent further increases in pH, ideally 6.3 - and you are drifting at and above 7 in both Coot's mixes...which means you are at risk for tying up micro nutrients.
Your Ca:Mg ratios (sol / %BS) seem to be closer to 4:1 vs that ideal 7:1 - 10:1 range.
Your CEC being above 30 means it will take more calcium or more sulfur to have a noticeable effect on pH than it would otherwise.
Chilean nitrate or Blood meal for that pure nitrogen boost. Chilean Nitrate is limited to no more than 20% of total nitrogen in an NOP system, so a 20/80 mixture of the two works brilliantly, while still being able to provide quick, effective nitrogen.
It is odd to see such a high Mg level in your one soil test, the problem container...did you ever come to a conclusion how that happened?
dank.Frank
Been waiting for a restock of BYF's gear so I can see if all his talk and knowledge shows true in his seed lines. Best way to sort the hyperbole from the fact is to drop a few seeds.
----------
I'd imagine you've got this all figured out by now, but...
You should apply 1/2c boron per cu yd of soil...every 3rd year, on average. Check out Fertibor. Boron is leached more easily from sandy soils so is often applied yearly in fields with subsequent plantings of crops that require more of it - such as a spring crop of broccoli followed by a crop of tomatoes / peppers in the late summer and fall. Even then, you never want more than 2# per acre, as it can be toxic when over applied.
Sulfate of potash (0-0-50) - instead of Sul-Po-Mg - can be used in conjunction with kelp meal to add more potassium without out further increasing Mg levels.
Calcium bentonite, gypsum, elemental sulfur could also help balance things out a bit. Adding more calcium while helping prevent further increases in pH, ideally 6.3 - and you are drifting at and above 7 in both Coot's mixes...which means you are at risk for tying up micro nutrients.
Your Ca:Mg ratios (sol / %BS) seem to be closer to 4:1 vs that ideal 7:1 - 10:1 range.
Your CEC being above 30 means it will take more calcium or more sulfur to have a noticeable effect on pH than it would otherwise.
Chilean nitrate or Blood meal for that pure nitrogen boost. Chilean Nitrate is limited to no more than 20% of total nitrogen in an NOP system, so a 20/80 mixture of the two works brilliantly, while still being able to provide quick, effective nitrogen.
It is odd to see such a high Mg level in your one soil test, the problem container...did you ever come to a conclusion how that happened?
dank.Frank
this is true ,
i,m trying to move to the middle ground , i want to start making my own s1 to grow outside with .
so atleast its a selected females , ( like a clone ) but more practical for ease of planting , rather than cloning and more predictable and consistent than a f1 , f2 .
@ shcrews , i see where your love of the ancient og comes from now . i have harvested 2 smaller plants today . very nice . it may just have it on the dragons blood after all . haha i think the buds of the AOG are a lot larger . the dragons blood defiantly bigger plant though .
AOG looks like a better smoke too at this stage .
Beansz I agree with you ..I really like to make my own S1's also and I still use clones for specific breeders (Like I just picked up the "Black Lime Reserve" from Afficianado....I once cloned a "specific" strain until it started throwing nnanners and all kinds of problems..but that in itself was another lesson
