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NewAgeGenetics

wb schrews

as I see the plants are doin gr8 without any hoophouse pre-grow.

could you explain us how can we re-use the soil?
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
And ya just scarpe a inch or two off the top of the pot and check.

so broad mites dont go on the plants? only in the dirt? or are you talking about russet mites? or both?

this is brutal just trying to figure out if i even have mites or not. spent all day in the car buying a fuckin 100x scope and now no sign of any bugs. i will check the dirt again i guess
 
I think you have broads which i havent encountered myself. A buddy of mine did and his tops looked like yours. Russets taco the leafs long ways and roll the edges up a little which i have had and there a pita.
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
wb schrews

as I see the plants are doin gr8 without any hoophouse pre-grow.

could you explain us how can we re-use the soil?

yah the plants did fine with no springtime hoophouse, although they might be a foot taller now if i had one. triple-planting the pots should make up for that.

re: the soil. I didn't do anything at all to it. Didn't amend or till the pots just pulled out the rootball from last year and replaced with a new plant.

look up Clackamas Coot's mix. thats what i use
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
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I think you have broads which i havent encountered myself. A buddy of mine did and his tops looked like yours. Russets taco the leafs long ways and roll the edges up a little which i have had and there a pita.

if its broad mites wouldn't i see some signs of them with the microscope? so frustrating..
 
http://www.420magazine.com/gallery/data/653/IMG_2504_1_.JPG

Broad mite damage.

Google images of it. Ive never dealt with broad mites ive only dealt with russet mites and the taco the leafs and by the time you notice the tacoing there on there by the millions. Just from the pic you posted earlier it looked like my friends that definitley had broad mite. He sprayed the agri mek a few weeks ago and he has new growth coming up now.
 
And idk what broads do to it but russets will literally eat the trichs off it and youll end up with brown mex weed. Sucks big time and last year i battled them and pretty much saved my tops but the 2nd and 3rd cut was ate up by them i just tossed it cause i dont think its even good for bho after they have at it.
 

Shcrews

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wierd seeing a person pick a place for dying over living
i've been feeling like that a lot lately.

that looks exactly like what my plants are doing. but i dont see any bugs on them, so wtf

Im gonna check tomorrow morning again with the 100x scope... if there's nothing crawling around anywhere, then it's off to the lab with some tissue samples to see if i can fix this problem


most of the plants were tracking the sun all day, but on some the leaves look droopy and there is twisty new growth on a lot of branches. At this point some of the plants seem to be stunted also, growing laterally more than vertically


the leaf twisting thing looks more like a reveg issue then spider mites. some strains just are not meant to mixed or u get wierd mutation problems.
i'm not sure if that's better or worse than having mites or nute imbalance
would be nice if someone could put some strains in a lab and then add broad mites or russet mites so we could all see what the damage they do looks like .
yah its kind of fucked up how a lot of the info on those pests is vague or conflicting, and there's hardly any good pictures anywhere. guess science is too busy figuring out the next Oxycotin or Xanax
 

Kygiacomo!!!

AppAlachiAn OutLaW
wb schrews

as I see the plants are doin gr8 without any hoophouse pre-grow.

could you explain us how can we re-use the soil?

im using the CC kit as well here is what it consists of.

CC Nutrient Kit

Nutrients: (Use at 1.5 Cups Per cubic foot of soil or about 1 Tablespoon per gallon of soil)

1. Crustacean Meal - Crab and Shrimp

2. Kelp Meal - Acadian Seaplants Brand

3. Neem Cake - Premium Organic Neem Cake Imported from India.

Minerals: (Use at 4 Cups Per Cubic foot of soil or about 1/2 Cup per gallon of soil)

1. Brix Blend Basalt - Our Favorite Rock Dust for trace minerals. Highly paramagnetic.

2. Gypsum Dust - Calcium and Sulfur

3. Oyster Shell Flour - Calcium Carbonate - Adds available calcium and limes the Peat moss.

What You'll Need To Get To Finish The Recipe:

1. Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss: Available in 2.0 Cubic Foot Bales and 3.8 Cubic Foot Bales at Home Depot and most gardening stores. Notice: The 2.0 Bale will fluff up to about 3.0 Cubic Feet and the 3.8 Bale will fluff to about 6 Cubic Feet.

2. High Quality Compost or Worm Castings: Search for local compost or castings on craigslist or order some here on our website.

3. Aeration Amendment: Something to aerate the soil like perlite does in normal potting mix. We like to use Pumice and Rice hulls but you can use whatever is available to you including perlite, rice hulls, lava rock, pumice etc.

You'll notice there isn't any High P ingredient like Soft Rock Phosphate or Fish Bone Meal and after speaking with Coot about this I realized a few things. This Kit has many ingredients that contain Phosphorous at normal levels which will not be harmful to Mycorrhizal fungi. High P amendments can have a negative effect on the soil Mycorrhizal life, for this reason Coot recommends using this recipe.

then to reuse the soil just do this

Ingredient List:
(We recommend that you apply with Quality Compost or Castings of at least 5% per container which will equal about 1/4 gallon of Castings per every 5 gallons of soil.)

Neem Cake @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Kelp Meal @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Crab Meal @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Fish Meal @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot

Gypsum @ 1/2 Cup Per Cubic Foot

buildasoil.com is where i got mine at.
 
That pic does look like your pic. I dont mean to confuse you at all. I was just sharing my exp with you and alot of pics online mix russet and broad mites up. Maybe there the same thing idk for sure. This year i just did preventive sprays so i dont have to worry about it too much. Like i said once they flower and there on there they eat the trichs so there isnt no point to make bho outta it so just make sure you figure out whats going on with them because you dont want a garden of brown no trich stuff. I seen it all year up north.
 

DunHav`nFun

Well-known member
Veteran
Yeah bro , I meant dig around without hurtin lateral roots too much while you water and see if anything floats up as in larvae , crawlers , root aphids by chance...anything that can be seen by that new scope.....

Sorry , was only trying to help and not frustrate you Shcrews , but guaranteed something`s goin on in the rootzone to cause that curling and twisting , be it ph imbalance and nutrient lockout , or critters settin down their own roots and housekeeping , so just stay after it till shit`s identified beyond a shadow of a doubt , attack problem full force , then hopefully they`ll all recover during stretch before they start spittin pistils....

I hope like Hell it`s simply a matter of adjusting ph which it very easily could be with no indications or bug sightings , but being pro-active to the problem is the proper path and you`re doin that so....

Good luck bro....DHF....:ying:......
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
good morning everyone

i am trying to order mainline tubing for my drip system but i cant figure out what is the difference between these:


1-1/2 in. x 100 ft. IPS 100 PSI UTY Poly Pipe

vs.

1-1/2 in. x 100 ft. IPS 100 PSI NSF Poly Pipe



...or does anyone know a better source for 1.5" poly tubing?

i thought this stuff would be easy to find but no stores carry it. I even talked to one guy at a large irrigation supply company who said he had never heard of it.
 

HorseBadoritiz

Active member
good morning everyone

i am trying to order mainline tubing for my drip system but i cant figure out what is the difference between these:


1-1/2 in. x 100 ft. IPS 100 PSI UTY Poly Pipe

vs.

1-1/2 in. x 100 ft. IPS 100 PSI NSF Poly Pipe



...or does anyone know a better source for 1.5" poly tubing?

i thought this stuff would be easy to find but no stores carry it. I even talked to one guy at a large irrigation supply company who said he had never heard of it.

I think NSF is rated for residential water, and UTY is for utility, like irrigation.
 

HorseBadoritiz

Active member
is that true? any idea why the NSF is 3x more expensive?

More certifications, plus it's a little beefier... I think you want the UTY.

If you mix and match, just make sure the inside diameter (I.D.) is the same as the outside diameters of the fittings.

A little dish soap will make the fittings go in easier, too.

Fascinating grow you've got going on!
 

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