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MotherLode Gardens 2015

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
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Afkansastan

Afkansastan

bodhi Afkansastan x Snow Lotus testers

this is the most vigorous strain in the garden so far. they are stout bushy plants, pointy semi-broad leaves that stick straight up on most of them, although there is one that is taller and lankier with long fingery leaves

I am really excited to see how these turn out. I have heard the Afkansastan cut is just as good as bubba so I passed up the Tiger's Milk and Jabba's Stash in favor of these testers because I've had bubba for years and would love to find another broadleaf that can compete


6 females are in 2 pots's triple-planted

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I don't know how to read a soil test so I've got a few questions. Do they adjust the p.h of the soil after the initial p.h test to test the soil? Will the test be jeopardized if the p.h is too high or low? P.h has everything to do with the PLANTS ability to uptake nutrients but does it also play a role in what's available in the soil (test) itself?

And why wouldnt adding more compost, lime and azomite take care of any deficiencys? I can see why compost would be hard unless mixed with some type of aeration and top dressed. But adding organic matter (compost) , lime and azomite would take of these deficiencys and p.h problems. And if I'm not mistaken there all mobile nutrients/elements. So mixing wouldn't be necessary.

This is purely a question based on knowledge I have accumulated. I'm very new to this so take it easy....thanks.
 

epicorchard

Member
to be fair, we mixed a lot of amendments into our vermifire last year. but i see your point.

how do you apply the pepzyme? also i looked up tainio and they have 3 kinds of pepzyme: Clear, G, or M. stuff like that confuses me.



I saw some soluble kelp at the hydro store. do you just dissolve it in water or do you brew a tea with it? i never made/used teas before

I buy my kelp from Scott at eco nutrients. Think 275 gallons runs for about $1900
 
trust me dude, OG hybrids from seed in huge pots, they can get hella bushy. LIke i said the cages change the shape of the plant for sure.

check out my thread from 2014, i think most of the seeds were started in april and went outside untopped.

When do you apply cages? How many for plant that size?
 

HillBilly1

Active member
Veteran
bodhi Afkansastan x Snow Lotus testers

this is the most vigorous strain in the garden so far. they are stout bushy plants, pointy semi-broad leaves that stick straight up on most of them, although there is one that is taller and lankier with long fingery leaves

I am really excited to see how these turn out. I have heard the Afkansastan cut is just as good as bubba so I passed up the Tiger's Milk and Jabba's Stash in favor of these testers because I've had bubba for years and would love to find another broadleaf that can compete


6 females are in 2 pots's triple-planted

View Image


View Image


View Image
This is a cross I want to try, they look good man
 

Calidude

Member
Please cite some science...so much bullshit in one post. Unless you know what is in the soil how do you know if the plant needs more K? How do you make kelp soluble? Does it involve an organic process? Or might it involve KOH...enquiring minds wanna know. And how the fuck does a film turn into vitimins and antibiotics...again, some science please.

This thread has turned into one fucking quack theory after another

You did wake up on the wrong side of the bed. Lol. You're developing a byf-complex. Relax....this is the point of the season the smart ass and dumb ass come out with alot of questions.....you're good though.
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
Veteran
How come there was never an "Organic Cat", why only dogs in cannabis strain naming? Chemdog/Chemdawg, West Coast Dog (why no Midwest Parakeet?), Dogz Waltz etc.

all from bodhi:

tigermelon
tiger's milk
lion's milk
snow leopard (in my garden this year)

or did you mean it has "cat" in the name. Im surprised nobody has named a strain "catnip"

I want to add that I hate these "GreenWire" things. If I didn't have to drive so far, I'd return 'em.
i could have called that :)
 

HatchBrew

Active member
Veteran
all from bodhi:

tigermelon
tiger's milk
lion's milk
snow leopard (in my garden this year)

or did you mean it has "cat" in the name. Im surprised nobody has named a strain "catnip"

i could have called that :)

there's the norcal catpiss
 

theJointedOne

Well-known member
Veteran
nice, looking good

it looks like they hit their stride and the roots are doing some work.

New garden looks great.

Have you thought about how your going to approach plant support this year?

cheers
 
Maybe I woke up in a dick mood today...but if your "girls couldn't be happier" why add anything?

Ha no I just used the vermi for as a nuetral medium for the deps. I'm pumping them with my buddies hydro line. And sorry to use the line couldn't be happier you milky fucker.:tiphat: They can always be happier I'm just stoked on the soil for 95 a yard and my plants look amazing.
I just really want to step up my foliar game this year for my full season that's why the AEA question. And thanks for all the info in that I'm going to try and order tomorrow. Just not sure on the quantities
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
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Have you thought about how your going to approach plant support this year?

cheers
yah that's all i've been thinking about. this week I am putting remesh cage for each plant that is single-planted, but havent figured out the first layer of support for the triple-planted pots maybe a 5' remesh cage placed in the pot around the 3 plants, with a remesh or trellis cap. then when they grow through that i can prune out the inside stuff and put up netting attached to T-posts for the second layer of support


When do you apply cages? How many for plant that size?

Here is a post by Butte that answers your question.
 

Bo Hasset

Active member
milky- vermifire is a decent commercial brand and it was the easiest/cheapest method to get soil within a 2 week time frame. many commercial farmers i know use it in their full season and dep with great results. its especially good during veg and early flower plants just shoot for the stars with growth. the soil test shows its not "ideal" but it does the trick….ran vermifire side by side in a few different grows last year and it always performed well, better than the norcal blend lol.. i like to think of it more as an amended coco medium, its basically super airy coco/perlite mixed with green waste compost and packed with nutrients. the low ca/mg is something i feel like we can deal with via foliar, we shall see!

I feel like Vermi-Fire creates the illusion of healthy plants in veg and early flower by stringing them out on their notoriously high K regiment. Some extra potassium will always, IME, make them "look" good for a time, but with those awfully low Ca numbers you run the risk of building up the plant's cell walls with almost nothing but potassium and when that happens instead of being constructed strongly of Ca... well, you're cruising for a bruising right about the time "early flower" hits. And that bruising is probably going to come not so much in the form of lowered yields, but the plant's inability to ward off disease/pests because pectin without sufficient calcium is essentially... worthless.. more calcium make plant more better, more bigger and more easily able to shrug off a few bugs or tell that PM and rot to go fuck off.

I've found that cannabis can't stop itself from gorging on potassium if it's right there for the taking. I'd much rather be in the reverse situation where my calcium game is top notch, but was having to supplement the potassium through foliars... much easier that way IMO.

I'm pretty terrible at trying to explain "cannabis theory", so if that didn't make a lick of sense just wait for milky to come through and edit (and probably correct!) that down to something more easily absorbed. If you run the numbers on TomHill mix (including his prescribed foliar routine) and read through his old posts he does a much better job at helping us ignorant folk to become a little more learned on this particular subject.

Sorry for partying, y'all.

Got all my pots filled today, finally... I might actually make it in the ground before summer actually hits now! :woohoo:
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Bo...imo that is right. But on top of that the high K will also antagonize Mg. You can literally see it on yesprop's soil test. Even though base saturations of ca and mg are high enough the soluble numbers are not. So the plant will take up high K and low Ca and Mg.

The low Mg means nitrate will not convert to protein...so you end up with watery cells, lower brix, etc.

For that situation (full sun, that soil) I would foliar an ounce per gallon photomag and also go hard on Ca...no extra K at all. And some micros of course.

The high nitrate will also antagonize another anion...probably P. Which is the round about way that the mg:k ratio graeme sait talks about influences P uptake

Anyway...if the weather stays good not a huge problem. If the weather turns bad the conversation will become about pest and disease control
 

MR_Falcon

Member
Veteran
I feel like Vermi-Fire creates the illusion of healthy plants in veg and early flower by stringing them out on their notoriously high K regiment. Some extra potassium will always, IME, make them "look" good for a time, but with those awfully low Ca numbers you run the risk of building up the plant's cell walls with almost nothing but potassium and when that happens instead of being constructed strongly of Ca... well, you're cruising for a bruising right about the time "early flower" hits. And that bruising is probably going to come not so much in the form of lowered yields, but the plant's inability to ward off disease/pests because pectin without sufficient calcium is essentially... worthless.. more calcium make plant more better, more bigger and more easily able to shrug off a few bugs or tell that PM and rot to go fuck off.

I've found that cannabis can't stop itself from gorging on potassium if it's right there for the taking. I'd much rather be in the reverse situation where my calcium game is top notch, but was having to supplement the potassium through foliars... much easier that way IMO.

I'm pretty terrible at trying to explain "cannabis theory", so if that didn't make a lick of sense just wait for milky to come through and edit (and probably correct!) that down to something more easily absorbed. If you run the numbers on TomHill mix (including his prescribed foliar routine) and read through his old posts he does a much better job at helping us ignorant folk to become a little more learned on this particular subject.

Sorry for partying, y'all.

Got all my pots filled today, finally... I might actually make it in the ground before summer actually hits now! :woohoo:

Bo...imo that is right. But on top of that the high K will also antagonize Mg. You can literally see it on yesprop's soil test. Even though base saturations of ca and mg are high enough the soluble numbers are not. So the plant will take up high K and low Ca and Mg.

The low Mg means nitrate will not convert to protein...so you end up with watery cells, lower brix, etc.

For that situation (full sun, that soil) I would foliar an ounce per gallon photomag and also go hard on Ca...no extra K at all. And some micros of course.

The high nitrate will also antagonize another anion...probably P. Which is the round about way that the mg:k ratio graeme sait talks about influences P uptake

Anyway...if the weather stays good not a huge problem. If the weather turns bad the conversation will become about pest and disease control

great stuff in here, thanks.:tiphat: hillside is looking killer too!
 

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