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Living organic soil from start through recycling CONTINUED...

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Interesting. Had great results using whole oats ground down and alfalfa to speed up a leaf mould pile.
 

Buddyy

Member
mmmm leaf mould....got pissed off with my mother who was caught throwing out plastic bags full of leaves into the rubbish bin!...took them home and added them to the leaf pile...to be added to my compost heap later...later
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Interesting. Had great results using whole oats ground down and alfalfa to speed up a leaf mould pile.

:yeahthats some great advice imo.
I've been making a leaf mold pile next to the compost, and added some kashi & lacto also some hay containing about 50% alfalfa, i think some ground oats would really help things move along...
 

Big_Bear

New member
Hi everybody,

This is my first post on the forum. I've been doing a whole lot of lurking and reading. There is so much information to digest here, and really appreciate all yall for it. I am a grower in colorado, and currently my partner and I are using really over priced organic nutes, but we still turn out some pretty weed. I personally am very interested in living soils and now have another grow that I am running where I can do what I want. So I am switching over to a living soil, even though it will be inside. I originally found the subcool supersoil recipe but I am not too fond of all of it and it looks somewhat expensive. It got me researching then led me to IC.

Anyways, I wanted to ask about about this soil recipe I found in the soil directory:

Colorado's mix

-7 bags of roots organics soil
-10 cups of dolomite lime
-8 cups of fishbone meal
-4 cups of kelp meal
-2 cups of green sand
-1.5 cups of soft rock phosphate
-30lb bag of worm castings
-4 cups of peruvian bird guano (10-10-2.5)
-2 cups of Azomite

mix together and wet with 5 gallons of water into 2 32 gallon garbage cans. let mix cook for 30 days and you have the finest organic soil know to man. i add nothing but a little molasses here adn there and it's a super producing mix that i can lliterally forget about and water when its dry. thats it



I eventually want to get to a more sustainable method and cut costs but for now all of that is readily available to me and simple.

In short, do you guys think this is a good mix?
 

Weird

3rd-Eye Jedi
Veteran
I personally don't like to build soils that need to be cooked, I would rather use compost peat castings and drainage and build up from there.

I think the more sustainable bases such as LCs or Coots mix (I use a variation of the two) also end up being the lowest cost while giving best performance. Coot's mix has IPM in mind LCs does not. Anyone I know running those mixes have not turned back.
 

Boyd Crowder

Teem MiCr0B35
Mr Big Bear -

Im with the weirdo on this one.
I use LC's#2 with ammendment recipe one as my base.

#1 If you do ANYTHING with living soil, start with the worms, not bags of ready mix
#2 I cannot tell you how to source great EWC in Co, but I found my supplier on craigslist
#3 Start and maintain a worm bin. Buy bait worms from the fishintackle shack and do some youtubing on the subject - you will thank me later.
#4 Check out bokashi , a technique for making your table scraps/compostables more easily digestible to those worms , in just a two week cycle.


Moving on, LC#2 R1 is cheaper initially than Coots and can be sourced from feedstores & the homodepot
so , covenience.

As for the esoterics in the recipes, you can get those at the grow$hops or ebay and amazon.

So heres that sticky on the subject - Organics for Beginners
 

Big_Bear

New member
Cool thanks a bunch for the input guys.

I have read the organics for beginners thread, and was actually just at the store pricing all of it out as well. I like method one for amending the soil and it was my second option. With that mix you have to cook it too though right? For a couple weeks?

Forgive me if my questions are too noobish. The way I have understood this so far is that when you add all the amendments in the soil, it has to be alive and thriving for optimal nute uptake?

I'm used to hand watering soilless with various ferts, but the new grow I'm working on I want to make it a just add water situation.
 

Boyd Crowder

Teem MiCr0B35
i cooked mine for two weeks with plain water, but i also added some bottled mychoz like sos and some of tha great white stuff , just freebies I had laying around.
Really tho , if you can get really high quality ewc, you will hAVE PLENTY microherd activity out of the box so to speak
 

Big_Bear

New member
Cool. You think it's still okay to use LC mix 1 with amendment recipe 1? I want to avoid using peat if possible, mainly because of its environmental impact, and plus coir is cheaper for me anyway, 10 bucks for 2cf.

So with the 1st amendment recipe, it's blood, bone, and kelp, greensand, and dolomite. No need for azomite or anything else?
 

dcasper

New member
hey everyone long time lurker been reading non stop for who knows how long know I've never grown organic but I've been wanting to switch over to organics and get away from commercial nutes hopefully I've come up with a decent mix I've looked over so many different recipes nd kinda mixed a couple to come up with what I got if yall could leave feedback on your guys opinons on if my ratios are rite id greatly appreciate it

19cf @3.8 cf per bag 5bags for 19cf 142.5gallons befor ammendments

per cu ft total for 19cf base

Fish meal 2cups 38cups

fish bone meal 2 cup 38cups

shrip/crab meal 1/2cup 9.5cups

alfalfa meal 1/2cup 9.5cups

flax seed meal 1/2cup 9.5cups

neem seed meal 1/2cup 9.5cups

kelp meal 1cup 19cups

oyster shell flour 1/2cup 9.5cups

gypsum 1/2cup 9.5cups

dolomite lime 1/2cup 9.5cups

azomite 1/3cup 6.55cups

glacial rock dust 1/3cup 6.55cups

soft rock phosphate 1/3cup 6.55cups

humates 1tsp 2/5th cup

green sand 1/2cup 9.5cups

k mag 1cup 19cups

earth worm castings 1/2cu ft 9cu ft

pro mix 3.8cuft per bag 6 bags 19 cu ft +3.8 for cutting it down for younger plants

I feel as though this is off some how I've read thru numerous mixes nd this is what I came up with any help is greatly appreciated
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
dcasper try mixing the mineral stuff w/ your soil & use the plant animal fish stuff as light topdressings. mulch these w/ your ewc

e.g. soil: 1 TBS ea oyster, gypsum, azomite, glacier dust. i'd skip the dolo & greensand & would want some basalt dust in there. i also like rice hulls as both drainage & silica. typically i add as much ewc as rice hulls which is a quart ea to 5 gallons of mix

once in containers topdress the fish, fish bone, crustacean, alfalfa, flax, neem & kelp ~mix it all up & use from 1 tsp to 1 TBS per 1 gallon soil mix. cover that well w/ ewc

for best effect, mulch that w/ chopped up barley straw & pulse water daily
 

r.shackleford.

New member
Just mixed up 9cf of the cc mix from buildasoil
For the base I used the premier peat, lava rock, rice hulls, and bu's blend compost.. All mixed and watered with alfalfa and aloe tea per Coots notes here...

Thank you again for all the excellent information you guys are willing to share. CC, Gas, etc etc I have been following your posts and documenting the information you have shared in this thread for a long time.

Merry Christmas
:tiphat::tiphat:
 

VortexPower420

Active member
Veteran
Xmobotx- . Just mix the base and add everything to the top... Nice approach it seems great mind think alike.

The castings should be enough to get the plant going and by the time the feeder roots hit the top horizon, wormies and microbes will be taking care of the top-dress making it available.

More control, Less chance for burning, no cook time and a more consistent mix.

I was testing out this same mixing method. Might as well just let the worms do the hard part of mixing right?
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
ICMag Donor
Veteran
i sure like worms in the container too. don't expect it to stratify so much as form a gradient. in a mix like this, frequently, the bottom will end up being a mass of white roots & the top will be dark earthy goodness fading gradually down to that white when you transplant

it's beautiful because you can not only get started this way when just getting your first steps on but, continue ~basically from 'rolling over to running' in one step

of course it gets better as you go though ~it's still ROLS! ~so long as you're using inputs that don't imbalance your mix
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
Heard the tunels worms dig when moving around help with aeration. Maybe it's time I try some, too.
I remember trying them in pots but it was a disaster, cause when the soil dried slightly or after i watered it they were going out of the pots and I was finding them dehidrated on the growspace floor. Does this still happen in a bed, or they like it enaugh to forget about commiting suicide?
 

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