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Living organic soil from start through recycling CONTINUED...

Scrappy4

senior member
Veteran
Hi guys! I'm about to start transplanting in no till, LOS, and have a question. is it better to transplant into the same pot as the cut's mom? And possibly capture any symbioatic soil/root relationship with a genectically identical plant. Or would a change of scenery be beneficial on the chance that a different variety might eat slightly different and make for a more rounded more than a (genetically)mono grow in pots?

So far I generally transplanted into the mom's pot, but with always introducing new stuff it doesn't always happen, and I never really noticed a difference.
 

CannaBrix

Member
Scrappy-

My bets are that over time, if you used the same clone in the same pots, there would eventually be some problem.

But I think it would take much longer, and would need to be on a much larger scale (although I don't know the specifics of your grow, so it may meet the conditions I imagine), than most ROLS grows indoors.

I would imagine that eventually some disease would find it's niche. And I am actually not even too sure that changing strain would do much to change that. Barring any drastically different strains (landrace afghan vs landrace thai).

my 2 cents
 

3rdEye

Alchemical Botanist
Veteran
Hi guys! I'm about to start transplanting in no till, LOS, and have a question. is it better to transplant into the same pot as the cut's mom? And possibly capture any symbioatic soil/root relationship with a genectically identical plant. Or would a change of scenery be beneficial on the chance that a different variety might eat slightly different and make for a more rounded more than a (genetically)mono grow in pots?

So far I generally transplanted into the mom's pot, but with always introducing new stuff it doesn't always happen, and I never really noticed a difference.

I have only transplanted in the mom container twice with no ill effects Scrappy, but i also try to get a few different species of plants growing at the same time or at least in sequence to help deal with potential illness issues.

Cannabrix's ideas make sense to me. Another reason to companion plant and cycle through containers.
 

VortexPower420

Active member
Veteran
What dis-eases do we deal with in canna growing that harbor in the soil and cause problems?

I understand why to rotate but is it needed? If a problem arises I can see letting it go Farrow but if there is no problems why mess with it.

Would it be enough to stop any potential problems by just having companion planting. I know brassicas release a substance that is detrimental to root neamatodes and fungual pathogens. Wouldn't it be enough to plant the propper mix of cover crops a week before chop to get them established. Then when the canopy takes over it will kill them off.

Just my thoughts.
Cannabis idea of rotating post to different crops is kinda sweet though

Timbuktu
 

CannaBrix

Member
Timbuktu-

I don't truly think it would have a big impact, but there are a few reasons it is pretty sweet.

1. Adding free organic nitrogen to pots with legumes.
2. Loosening up the soil without tilling, and possibilty of adding immobile nutes to the rootzone without tilling. (after harvesting root crops)
3. Indoor organic veggies!
 

3rdEye

Alchemical Botanist
Veteran
What dis-eases do we deal with in canna growing that harbor in the soil and cause problems?

I understand why to rotate but is it needed? If a problem arises I can see letting it go Farrow but if there is no problems why mess with it.

Would it be enough to stop any potential problems by just having companion planting. I know brassicas release a substance that is detrimental to root neamatodes and fungual pathogens. Wouldn't it be enough to plant the propper mix of cover crops a week before chop to get them established. Then when the canopy takes over it will kill them off.

Just my thoughts.
Cannabis idea of rotating post to different crops is kinda sweet though

Timbuktu

You already pointing at some of the solutions Timbuktu. Although verticillium and fusarium and others can be dealt with to a greater extent by environmental conditions having companion plants will diversify the soil microbes and fungi and allow for more effective exclusion of pathogens.

I've got barley grass, garlic, basils, nettles and other companion/volunteer plants that are in various canna containers. My goal is to always have the containers with live plants, but constraints have not allowed me to have life in there constantly yet. What i have been doing is re-awakened the soil for a week or three before putting new ganja transplants in.

You suggestion with the chop and drop is great and i use that as well. I'll be chopping back the companion barley grass in one of my containers soon after the plants go into flowering. :) Part of the reason for additional lead time is that the larger plants will also be pushing out proportionally larger amounts of exudates. Further activating the soil.

@CannaBrix@

legumes! For some reason i had not gotten around to putting any in. I will do that next. Great reminder. Thanks
 

leej808

New member
Another 60 pages to go after finishing the 500 and something from the first thread... Living the dream, my Mrs is gonna get nothing out of me for at least another month, that's afyer she lost me to 3 months reading solid the "teaming with" series amd the other ROLS thread and associated pages and links... Thank you all, my life has been changed!!!!!
 

St. Phatty

Active member
I'm toying with the idea of a rotation pot.

Keeping one or two pots from: cannabis --> legumes ---> root crop

I was talking to a neighbor with about 10 hectares in New Zealand.

They let the land lie fallow and only use 1/3 to 1/2 of it at a time for grazing cattle and a huge veg. garden (NZ gov. is anti-cannabis ... idiots.)

Anyway, I don't know exactly why, except that it has to do with letting the soil rest and be restored by micro-fauna and micro-flora.


On my own front yard, I have loads of wild peas. I suppose that would also qualify as a soil rejuvenator. So far I have only used that soil as an additive, not the main show. The soil where the wild peas have grown for 20+ years is pretty darn rich.



View attachment 326275

So any chance to I'd this? My od soil was full of it after I chopped the winter cover crop. Sorry about pic quality

There is a type of gray fungus that is very common in soil, and beneficial - and I forget the name. Did a web-search, still can't find it.

I took a soil composting class from a retired soil science prof. He told us the name of it. Said it grows all over their compost and is considered healthy (though too much might be bad ?)


My apologies for jumping in without reading all 560 pages. I'm vision impaired and that would take about 2 days for me.
 

Mate Dave

Propagator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
the key to soil success is mulch and water.. Overcropping will deplete the substrate and leaving fallow will cause a drop in structure and also won't benefit the soil fertility like improving cultivation techniques. The cultivation is the goal setter after genetics...

In nature soil is never fallow.
 
Does anyone know why acadian kelp is better than thorvin kelp? I've read a couple posts that have said to buy acadian, but they didn't give an explanation as to why they should buy that one and not thorvin.
 

Coba

Well-known member
Veteran
Does anyone know why acadian kelp is better than thorvin kelp? I've read a couple posts that have said to buy acadian, but they didn't give an explanation as to why they should buy that one and not thorvin.
I've wondered the same thing.

Thorvin looks good to me too
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
Veteran
capt kush i don't have an answer to your question but i encourage you to poke around seaweed.ie it's full of easily digestible info with lots of citations linked to the heavy reading.

iirc coot considers michael d. r. guiry the ultimate authority when it comes to marine algae.
 
I thought Thorvin and Acadian are both Scandinavian by source.

Well shit. lol. look at this label.

picture.php
 
one of the things i look for when buying kelp meal is the %salt
also ecklonia maxima is an excellent and unique kelp source.

Packaging say 9% max. I've yet to do the math on what that means for me.

Id like know their process. If its just farmed and set out to dry, by the ocean, I'm a little sketchy on that prospect.

If they're washing and then drying inland a bit, I'm ok with that. I'm thinking that salt may be dissolved within the actual plant if that's the case.

I wish I could carve out the time to check it out against other products. With the lab running 24/7 this time of year its rather difficult to bring it in to check it out.
 

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