C
cannaisok
does anybody have a scpec diagram of 3500k 3590? i cant find on google or cree site...
-
ICMag and The Vault are running a NEW contest in October! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
LED FAQ) Building and DIY
- Thread starter Dion
- Start date
RiddleMeThis
Member
hahahaha
the context was that the tech will get better too quickly...
right now though the tech has def progressed to a point where it is cost effective to use LEDs
take the new vero 29 GEN 7 run them pretty hard(depends which model for exact current) like 80-120w per cob depending on the model and put about 800w per 4x4 to achieve PPFD outrageously higher than a 1000w hps and similar heat to a 600w hps
check digikey or mouser or whatever for the gen 7 vero 29
also cutter is apparently going to stock them and of course Jerry from 40 thieves
Any DIYs out there that size that I could copy, or kits to buy? Was looking at the growmau5 kits on cutter but they're not the veros
Sante
In DoPa
Thanx dion, as ever....so in poor words more lumes in a white cob is straight proportionate to PAR value?
what do you think about add an uvb tube to 200w cobs? No sense? If yes i ve just seee that there are some reptile light 2.0 5.0 10.0 ....what does it mean?
Dion
Active member
1) yes
2) this is outside my area of knowledge, and I'm a stoner so i can't remember who i was taking to about this recently(jikko was there maybe he remembers) but basically no sense, not for now
in some time maybe u wanna try it, but for sure those reptile bulbs will be too powerful to compliment a 200w set-up, maybe if you only have it on for 10minutes per day
so...no sense
Dion
Active member
just go with the cutter style kit-check out growmou5's vids for assembly but use dif cobs and dif drivers.
I know you are keen to get this rigged up so i will try and help.
help me help you by telling me if u r in the use and if you already looked on digikey for the vero gen 7?
i can link you the drivers from mouser that you will need, and the heatsinks you can get from megatronics or similar from china
RiddleMeThis
Member
Not sure what you mean "in the use". But did check digikey... having a hard time finding 3500k gen 7s, which I'm guessing is best spectrum for bloom?
As far as drivers, no idea yet. Seems the MW HLG 240 2100mah is most efficient from what's I've read, but can only drive 3 cobs... looked at the 320...
Have been looking at the mau5 kits on cutter, 10 and 11 cob kits. Love the design of the canopy 10, without the supplemental color leds.
RiddleMeThis
Member
Awesome koondense! Yes, these will be strictly for bloom.
RiddleMeThis
Member
Looking at the BXRC-30E10K0-(B,C,D)-7x
B= 52V/93.6W typical
C= 69.4V/118.7W typical
D= 38.7V/81.3W typical
B,C,D determine how many cobs you could run on your driver? And watts you can push? Not sure if I'm understanding this all.
B= 52V/93.6W typical
C= 69.4V/118.7W typical
D= 38.7V/81.3W typical
B,C,D determine how many cobs you could run on your driver? And watts you can push? Not sure if I'm understanding this all.
Dion
Active member
prove it!/no its not you donkey
For about the last 2 years I've thought that spectrum is of little importance during flower and instead seen great results in veg using dif spectrums at dif intensity to shape the plants(branching, node distance or sometimes I don't even have a light on top just on the sides to make her wider) hence I've been leaning towards 4000k for flower because more photons... but sure you want that 620-650nm peaks...but you can also get 4000k 95CRI....but then the photon count is not so high....but then...... ect
seriously though I'm sure everyone(including myself) would love to pull up a chair and a joint for you to talk about this a bit.... please discuss spectrum with us
Dion
Active member
I suggest you consider the driver to match the cob in this case because they r 3 dif animals
like
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXRC-30E10K0-B-73/976-1397-ND/6152407
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMt5PRBMPTWcaRTgZe1UVjfl49KWJe2LRtQ=
with 5 of those vero on each driver rigged in parralel
2 of these set ups per 4x4
use those pin sinks, you can get them from china(led heatsink.com or smth)
connect it all into panels using aluminium profile
looks like this? not sure how you gonna hang them with 10 cobs per 4x4,
maybe?
jikko77
Active member
leave a seat for me as well.
RiddleMeThis
Member
You're seriously the man Dion!
Will try and put together a parts list to run by you
I do have one questions... do you think a fan will need to accompany the heatsinks? No idea how hot these will run...
Sante
In DoPa
Dion, there's any "simple" formula to know the virtual vero29 operation temperature range without a direct measurement in a 25°C growbox?
I mean, if i have to choose from three different passive heatsink: (0.52- 0.46 -0.67 °c/w)how much would be the effective temperature variation of my BXRC-35E10K0-D-7X drive 1.4A , 37.2V at 25°C choosing one instead of the other? is it roughly estimable?
there are a lot of calculators like this:
http://support.luxeonstar.com/custo...at-sink-i-need-includes-heat-sink-calculator-
but i can't understand which values put into the empty fields a part from LED Junction Temperature (Tj125°C)
That's one of easier guide but still difficult for me to understand.
http://www.led-heatsink.com/LED_heat_sink_calculation_simulation_thermal_design.html
I mean, if i have to choose from three different passive heatsink: (0.52- 0.46 -0.67 °c/w)how much would be the effective temperature variation of my BXRC-35E10K0-D-7X drive 1.4A , 37.2V at 25°C choosing one instead of the other? is it roughly estimable?
there are a lot of calculators like this:
http://support.luxeonstar.com/custo...at-sink-i-need-includes-heat-sink-calculator-
but i can't understand which values put into the empty fields a part from LED Junction Temperature (Tj125°C)
That's one of easier guide but still difficult for me to understand.
http://www.led-heatsink.com/LED_heat_sink_calculation_simulation_thermal_design.html
Last edited:
prove it!/no its not you donkey
For about the last 2 years I've thought that spectrum is of little importance during flower and instead seen great results in veg using dif spectrums at dif intensity to shape the plants(branching, node distance or sometimes I don't even have a light on top just on the sides to make her wider) hence I've been leaning towards 4000k for flower because more photons... but sure you want that 620-650nm peaks...but you can also get 4000k 95CRI....but then the photon count is not so high....but then...... ect
seriously though I'm sure everyone(including myself) would love to pull up a chair and a joint for you to talk about this a bit.... please discuss spectrum with us
My only proof are my plants
But yeah, this debate would be endless so I give more space to various options for the so called optimum flowering spectrum. I went with 3000K(only available at the time, most reds 600nm+) but really anything in the range of 3000-5000K is good.
Cheers guys
Dion
Active member
so you guys r both asking about heatsink sizing
its been a while since i looked at the formula for the c/w and no ist not too simple, but if you google it you will find the answers u seek....after a few days of reading....um....
so@riddlemethis any of those pin sinks(size 110x80mm) will work, bigger stuff too.....if you want to use fans i suggest PC coolers are fine but passive cooling has good benefits as well
i can find some old posts from me when i had the formulas in from of me but honestly i don't overthink it too much now days.
just grab those pin style heatsinks and if they r getting too hot you can add a fan, or even have a oscillating fan blow over the sinks will work...
um.....did u wanna go with profiles and fans like real style or.....?
we can find whatever just let me know whatcha wanna do
simple formula would be assume 50% of your watts will be heat
calculate 120cm 2 per watt
so u need the total surface area of the heatsink
Sante
In DoPa
Hi Dion, my problem is not to find some guides but understand them. my heatsink would be a single, passive, with any possibility to adding a fan in a second time....so the risk is oversizing the heatsink and waste money or adopt a cheaper with too heating on my cob.
Last edited:
Sante
In DoPa
ah ok, well I'm not gonna download the data sheet and read it(thats ur job) but you can take the total lumens per watt and divide by 325 for a very very rough idea of the efficiency once you have the efficiency multiply by total watts and subtract that from total watts=heat
eg. 170 lumens per watt at 25w
170/325=0.52307.....(52% efficient)
25x0.52=13
25-13=12
12 watts of hear per cob, heatsink can handle 50w so you can put 4 on that sink
I'm self taught so forgive the retarded way i do it
good luck
This is one of your posts i found...
Dion
Active member
http://www.led-heatsink.com/LED_heat_sink_calculation_simulation_thermal_design.html
http://www.myheatsinks.com/calculate/thermal-resistance-plate-fin/
just go with 60cm2 per actual watt for passive and u will be fine(this is assuming 50% efficient and 120cm2 per watt of heat)
I am planning to use CXB3590 36V 3000k 90cri version on 1400 mA for good efficiency and low temps in micro grow box - my budget plan is to go with 1 cob and 1 led driver on the beggining but to buy a second one cob/driver later. Will I be fine with that low current? On how low current could I drive CXB3590 36V (in theory)? I'm curious because i heard that some types of leds don't like very low current and I know that most of ppl drive CXB3590 36V on 1750mA or 2100mA so 1400mA is not a typical value fo them. In the future I would buy drivers with a stronger current but right now I'm on the budget btw: i will use one passive heatsink - 19x50cm
Peace!
btw: i will use one passive heatsink - 19x50cmPeace!
