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LED FAQ) Building and DIY

tenthirty

Member
2x 315s are good, but 8 cree's are better. Less power and AC.....More even light distribution as well. With practice can easily double yield and I think better quality too.
 

brown_thumb

Active member
Hmm... I may need to re-think my lighting plans. I've been worried about getting the color spectrum right with LEDs but it seems I just needed to do more research.
 

Dion

Active member
I think LEDs efficiency if I understand correctly would lower one's electricity usage by approx 40% and lower ambient heat by at least 25%?

That would be my motivation to do so.. I'm not too concerned about the budget if we are talking a DIY project. I don't need all the bells and whistles just something that works well.

I don't want to spend 1k per light, something around $500 per light if we are talking 2 lights. Put another way $500 or less per / 300 watts ? sounds doable. Obviously, the or less sounds better but I'm realistic.

Recap:So $250-$500 per each 600 watt hps replacement. Lower electricity and same or better production concerns, lower heat output as well. If that all can be rolled into 1 package.

more narrow electricity and production

Running 220/240 volts ?

then go with the new vero29, assuming you buy off jerry he only has the 37v version so those can be run up to around 80w for decent efficiency,

you could run 4 off a HLG-320H-C1750, that would be about 65w per cob

he will have al the heatsinks and optics to match

4 x vero29gen7- $100
driver-$100
heatsinks-$100
screws optics and shipping ect $100

so 400 per light, 320w per light ...ppfd should be around 800 so pretty firkin good

let me know how that sounds and after you talk to jerry you can hit me up before u buy,
he knows his products though so won't sell u incompatible parts, he might have some other driver options and of course you could run more of the veros per driver to have the same watts but more light and less heat
 

Dion

Active member
its all about the surface area

its all about the surface area

Hey guys.

I'd ask something heatsink related. Planning to run citileds 038 (19x19mm 37.5V at 0.7A(26.25W)).

A 14fins 111mm wide x 32mm height x 500mm length would be enough to heat passively 3 of these cobs? Some additional on the heatsink, the base is 7.5mm thick.

are those the 1212s?

looks good, that sink can handle around 50w of heat and those should be around 50% efficient at that drive current so 3 of them is around 40w of heat

assuming you are talking about the 1212s.... you would have to post the model name to be sure
 

Kukutyin

Member
They are 1206-s. To be exact CLU038-1206C4-303M2K1 and 403M2K1(gen 4). Main difference is, the chip itself has 0.64C/W thermal resistance, while the 1212 got 0.52C/W (more surface, 1212 is 28mmx28mm). Thanks for the word on it :) I dare to invest in this heatsink i think.
 

BReal

Well-known member
Veteran
Bros... I have a problem: to decide between 2 setups. I have a small box 30x70cmx115cm and 115 is height, but in reality I have about 95cm of height because my carbon filter takes a little bit of space. Could you help me? Which spectrum is better? :comfort:

1. leds 2835, CRI>90, 72W/5m

picture.php


2. leds 5630, CRI>90, 150W/5m

picture.php


Spectrum is the most important thing here. Flowering is the most important thing for me so the red spectrum will be the key I think. I heard that the most efficient red spectrum for cannabis is 640-660nm. 2835 proportions are better if you consider only that wave length. Not sure though.... on the other hand 5630 is more efficient if to consider wattage/lumens. Maybe I shouldn't care about it so much and 75W/4800lm will be enough? Aaahh...!

Peace!
 

Dion

Active member
They are 1206-s. To be exact CLU038-1206C4-303M2K1 and 403M2K1(gen 4). Main difference is, the chip itself has 0.64C/W thermal resistance, while the 1212 got 0.52C/W (more surface, 1212 is 28mmx28mm). Thanks for the word on it :) I dare to invest in this heatsink i think.

ah ok, well I'm not gonna download the data sheet and read it(thats ur job) but you can take the total lumens per watt and divide by 325 for a very very rough idea of the efficiency once you have the efficiency multiply by total watts and subtract that from total watts=heat

eg. 170 lumens per watt at 25w

170/325=0.52307.....(52% efficient)
25x0.52=13
25-13=12

12 watts of hear per cob, heatsink can handle 50w so you can put 4 on that sink


I'm self taught so forgive the retarded way i do it
good luck
:tiphat:
 

jikko77

Active member
@BReal: if you want to go with something more specific for flowering i'd pick the second one and add some more after the 400nm (380-400nm not else). but is just a very huge IMHO.
if you want to use an all around light i'd pick the first.
 

420Grow

Member
Hi All,

Great little thread here.
So i'm thinking of switching from CFLs to LED. Thanks to Dion for pointing me in the right direction on my other thread.

I am currently growing in a PC:
L=40cm x H=35cm x D=19cm

This is where i'm at so far:
LEDs:CXA2530 U2 4000k x3
Drivers:18-36V @ 300mA x3
Heatsink:Intel FanSink x3 Similar to link but will be salvaged from old PCs :biggrin: Who doesn't love free stuff.

So 3 CXAs running at 300mA:
Lm = 5410
Lm/w=173
Watts=31

At the beginning of this thread Dion suggests 6000-7000 Lm per sqf, can i get away with just 5000Lm in this tight space?

NB. The 2530s are the only chips i can afford right now. Prices in South Africa are crazy.
 

Dion

Active member



yeah sure, it's from 2012 though....

um....lumens are for humans, it is a measurement of how much light the human eye can see emitted from a light source. but plants still use green light so the whole blurple revolution is really over imho.

Par....I mean.....I don't wanna say too much but Bobby G seems to have all the answers this week so perhaps he will weigh in....

but yeah basically we can use maths to derive par in PPF or PPFD from any given light source.... I have a spread sheet that does that for me now so i don't get trolled for rounding decimals when i do it in my head and answer you guys' questions.


the one thing I will say about that article is that lumens are good enough for me and my garden WHEN TALKING ABOUT WHITE LED

because while a CFL or HPS has a spectrum graph that looks like a guilty persons polygraph white LEDs have a pretty smooth spectrum.... so all those photosensitive peaks are getting hit



THE REAL QUESTION IS: how many hps lumens = 1 3500K led lumen? and to answer that you need to talk about par



600-watt-hps-spectrum-analysis.jpg



gallery_6205_3270_202090.jpg
 

iBogart

Active member
Veteran
Picked up a Meanwell HLG-80h-36b driver. Output is 36v at 2.3amps. Would this push one cxb3590 too hard? Got a pot to dim it down. Or would it be better to run two cxb's in parallel? That would be 40 watts per cob. I plan on growing in a small cab 1.5 by 1.5 by 4 feet high. Thoughts?
 

BuddyColas

New member
yeah sure, it's from 2012 though....

um....lumens are for humans, it is a measurement of how much light the human eye can see emitted from a light source. but plants still use green light so the whole blurple revolution is really over imho.

Par....I mean.....I don't wanna say too much but Bobby G seems to have all the answers this week so perhaps he will weigh in....

but yeah basically we can use maths to derive par in PPF or PPFD from any given light source.... I have a spread sheet that does that for me now so i don't get trolled for rounding decimals when i do it in my head and answer you guys' questions.


the one thing I will say about that article is that lumens are good enough for me and my garden WHEN TALKING ABOUT WHITE LED

because while a CFL or HPS has a spectrum graph that looks like a guilty persons polygraph white LEDs have a pretty smooth spectrum.... so all those photosensitive peaks are getting hit



THE REAL QUESTION IS: how many hps lumens = 1 3500K led lumen? and to answer that you need to talk about par



View Image


View Image
So are you up to sharing this killa conversion spreadsheet?
 

BuddyColas

New member
would love to but the mods here don't allow hosting of excel files.

I have one for heatsink calculations and another for ppfd

also you can find supra's efficiency spreadsheets here

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1nKfc12OCuDu7puJCa_6maefyCVm3gS5sBmzAXOlh06w/edit

To bad. Interestingly, this very thread was the first one I read when I got into warm COBS back in May 2015. And my big take aways then were to use warm cobs (3000K/80cri) at about 5000 lm per square foot. I use 1 cob per square foot and have built several bars since. I have found after all the fuss and calculations and improved efficiency that 5000 lm per square foot of warm cobs still ends up about 800ppfd plus or minus. Makes building and ballpark comparing pretty easy. Thanks for starting this thread.
 
So I'll be running 2 4x4 bloom tents, and was planning on 600w hps, and 1000 if I could get away with the heat.

It was mentioned that if 600-1000w hps replacement is your goal, don't bother. Is this still the case? I got really fking excited about diy, as I built computers in my youth. Then dion crushed my dreams.
 

Dion

Active member
So I'll be running 2 4x4 bloom tents, and was planning on 600w hps, and 1000 if I could get away with the heat.

It was mentioned that if 600-1000w hps replacement is your goal, don't bother. Is this still the case? I got really fking excited about diy, as I built computers in my youth. Then dion crushed my dreams.

hahahaha

the context was that the tech will get better too quickly...

right now though the tech has def progressed to a point where it is cost effective to use LEDs


take the new vero 29 GEN 7 run them pretty hard(depends which model for exact current) like 80-120w per cob depending on the model and put about 800w per 4x4 to achieve PPFD outrageously higher than a 1000w hps and similar heat to a 600w hps

check digikey or mouser or whatever for the gen 7 vero 29

also cutter is apparently going to stock them and of course Jerry from 40 thieves

:tiphat:
 
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