Land of a thousand colas, part deux

[gmanwho]

wonderful land.

@MAHA KALA Thanks man!!

Looking forward to running your gear!!

Now i just gotta figure out the timing of everything.

So in a pm when we where conversing about daylight schedules, equatorial verse northern latitudes, Day length decrease in particular, and whats necessary.

In regards to the Kona uprising, whats the best way to get these to match up and stay in flower with the summer solstice? You mentioned something of sorts, maybe ?

If i can formulate a plan, i may start flowering them indoor then put outside early june.

my location, june 20th has 15:35 of day light. Do you think they would still stay in flower if put outside? Or light dep would be necessary?

if light dep, what do you think the threshold is for them to stay in flower? 14.5hrs or 14hrs? Basically 10 hrs of darkness?

Aug 5th is 14:30 hr light
Aug 16th is 14:00hr
Aug 26th is 13:30hr


I have a helper here for the next months, maybe longer if i dont scare him away. He is down to build a small greenhouse with me. So i may attempt this. Just trying to put on paper the necessary points an work in the small stuff later.

just trying to figure some shit out an see if its possible. "the wheels are always turning"

Any input is greatly appreciated. Man

 

[MAHA KALA]

10 hours of dark is too little. you need 12 or better 13 hours of dark... and yes light dep. , because light dep. will provide you 100% darkness.

put Kona Up under 13 hours of light and 11 hours of dark and it will never flower, just veg. at tropics they never had more than around 13 hours of light, 13 hours and 20 minutes max... so it is vegging time for tropical sativa. less than 12 hours and it starts to flower, but put it under 13 hours again for week in the middle of flowering and it will start to veg again...

 

[MAHA KALA]

greenhouse is great idea. cold is enemy of sativas. some are more or less sensitive to it. some stop to veg or flower when temperature drops under 66F.. not case of Kona Up though. but warmer night is always better for them.

 

[greyfader]

@gmanwho

howdy, your plants look great! i hope you are enjoying life in your new place!

the other day you commented in the LED and Bud Quality thread about not running recirculation anymore. I was wondering if that is because of the viroid?

i left Oregon 5.5 years ago and no one was talking about it then. now it seems to be a real problem.

as you know, i grew cbd flower for 3 years in Nashville and we never had a problem with it.

the last 2.5 years i have been in private practice again but have only grown from seed and not very many strains. hardly ever overlapping strains as i searched for keepers.

the only time i have ever had a recirculating system cause an outbreak of any kind was when we got root aphids in the cbd facility. all plants in the flowering room were recirculating through the same bulk reservoirs.

but we stopped them by using a large inline UV sterilizer. and some h2o2.

how prevalent is the viroid now?

 

[gmanwho]

Hey @greyfader the possibility of the hplvd worries me. But there are others too. Curly top Beet, theres also a lettuce virus, an some others ive read about. But years ago before i learned of hplvd, i learned of the multiple fusariums and phythiums that can an DO plague us.

also, It doesn't make sense for me to reuse a hydro nutrient feed that a plant has already picked through. Or what the medium has choose to accept and then reject due to CEC or things i can just barely comprehend. Plant / roots take what is available, and rejects what it couldn't. Now knowing that the rejected portion of the nutrient profile is now building in concentration within the recycled nutrient.

Upper levels of the medium drying out, nutrients bonding an possibly now unavailable to the roots. Then only to be flushed through, to eventually become part of the feed solution. Nahh, no thanks.

Ya facilities do recycle, but the nutrient is sterilized, and then eventually tested for what is missing from the complete profile, then add back whats missing. An cannabis is a nutrient hog, so im willing to speculate an imbalance happens withing a few recycles when the plants are cranking.

After a few recycles, your meter reads 2 ec, but what portion of that 2ec is now available to the plant? Until i can get a meter that i can analyze individual nutrient and availability, i feel its a gamble im not willing to take at this point in the game.

Also Na levels are important. I think it is said that above 50ppm Na becomes toxic to most plants. Chlorides as well. I feel this situation often arises when you think you see a deficiency, but it actually was from an imbalance or toxicity causing unavailability. Now im chasing this deficiency, adding what i feel it needs, only to further the imbalance.

Alot of these unknowns. I stay away now from recycling nutrient. Had so many runs for a stretch of years recycling nutrient only for the plants to loose their stride, or to become deficient from an imbalance, all because i wanted to recycle my nutrient 5 days instead of 3days.

Lots of water borne pathogens that spread. Some come in by air, soil, water feed sources, or compost. Cut to cut. Come in on your seasoned firewood, shoes & clothes, beloved animals, flys or knats. The mold in between your panda plastic and the wall. Learned that these pathogens can transfer from using a tainted bucket or stake. Or better yet a ph or tds/ec probe when testing run off, then if you don't sterilize that probe, an use that probe later to test your feed nutrient, u just transferred that pathogen into your feed reservoir to possibly multiply and or spread all over. So why cant the same came thing happen if plant 3 of the 12 in the system is sick.

IME some of these pathogens can just slightly effect a plant. And it may finish at like 60-70% of what it was capable of. Now multiply that 30% loss if every plant was infected. 20lb room normally now only producing 14lbs. Or that percent loss could be a quality thing too.

Plant 3 runoff just got introduced to the feed system, now the other 11 plants have to fend off a possible invasion of whatever plant 3 had in its roots.

I also want to say most of the pathogens that plague cannabis are water borne pathogens, so they easily spread in runoff.


I think an interesting thing about hplvd, atleast from what ive read or video's, is how it suppresses the immune system of the plant. Then that compromised immune system lets another pathogen take over like some mold or fungus.

Then what the grower sees is a fungal problem, when in fact the hplvd suppressed the plants immune system and allowed that pathogen to thrive. Confusing the diagnose. HIV to plants

 

[gmanwho]

@MAHA KALA appreciate the response. This further complicates the idea of flowering early then putting outside. I got some planning to do.

 

[gmanwho]

Hey @greyfader , was wondering your thoughts? Hope all is well!!

 

[gmanwho]

Sweet leaping Baby Jeebus , there's young blood here now!! Now lets not scare him off, focus beavis....Focus

He loves the plant, loves to work, sees the big picture and wants to be a part of it.
Been 8 days. Starting to get a rhythm.
Neglected things are starting to get fixed or taken care of.
Finishing up some of the last pieces of automation, ph dosers, Uv filters, setting up blumats.
Cleaning lowers, taking veg plant tally's, taking clones , throwing shit out. Consolidating!!

Figured out where to put the Tea brewer. Painted an sealed the stand finally.
Inhale those fumes beavis......

 

[greyfader]

Hey @greyfader , was wondering your thoughts? Hope all is well!!

i'm doing fine for 73. just got the vision in my left eye back after cataract surgery. i was a real menace on the highway for a while. no depth perception whatsoever. thursday will be 15 years since the liver transplant. the liver and i have gotten along quite well with no complications. it has lasted longer than some of my marriages.

congrats on getting the help! i imagine there's a lot to do around there.

i quit large-scale growing after the 3 years in Nashville. That facility was a 10k sq ft basement warehouse with a fully recirculating PPK system.

i had no problems at all there except for the root aphids that someone brought in on some clones that weren't supposed to be there.

you know i've been using the PPK since sept 2009 and in that time i've never had any problems with recirculating pathogens.

i have heard the viroid can be transmitted through a recirculating system. i don't know if that is correct but i thought it might be the reason you said you don't circulate anymore.

as far as nutrient depletion, in the PPK system, we feed a stable pre-mixed solution to a stable pre-mixed solution at a rate that continuously tops off the recirculating part of the system.

the majors are being depleted and replenished at a high rate and, if the solution is balanced, it takes a very long time to get to the point where plants are not growing fast, much less showing any symptoms.

it's the micros that slowly accumulate and could start displays if you don't monitor the PH. in the PPK system, when the PH begins to show a tendency to rise daily and needs ph down almost daily to keep it in range then it is time to change the solution.

i'm still using the "mass balance" principles of feeding and it works quite well.

i don't know what method you are using now but i can't imagine you having many nutrient problems with your experience.

here are some pics of the cbd facility and my last personal grow. the cbd plant is Purple Mesa and tested at 18%. my personal plant is BlueStar OG. and was fed water only the last week. i'm doing experiments with manipulating spectrum and applying stresses of various types to increase THC and terpenes.

i'm also using organic inputs with jack's and it seems to be working well.

here is a link to a good paper about using mass balance principles.

https://www.mdpi.com/2071-1050/14/16/10204

the only thing that worries me right now growing weed is the viroid. because of it, i might drop recirculation if i ever go back to commercial growing. or isolate groups of plants so that i'm only recirculating small groups.

 

[gmanwho]

@grefader good to hear health is cooperating.


Not sure how to quote correctly, doesnt seem to work right with firefox web browser. so ill quote this way

i'm still using the "mass balance" principles of feeding and it works quite well.


i don't know what method you are using now but i can't imagine you having many nutrient problems with your experience.

Im fairly certain this article wasnt around when i messed with ppk or recirculating nutrient, maybe abit of the principles of wue, but this article brings things to another level. (article date june/aug 2022).

sounds like the principle has been around, but prior i havent seen somethig explaining as in-depth as this article does. I glanced over the article, an i really should spend some time with it.

I still plan to feeding the lower sections of the sip plants with an add back approach. This WUE or mass balance principle hopefully can shine some light. Appreciate the artice link.

Always had problems with nutrients after a few days. Whether the add back was straight water, RO, 50% or 75% or 100% of the orginal EC. Things would go sour. Then I would replace the solution and i would get growth spurts, an deficiencys would clear up or stop. An i always montitored PH an EC.

So eventually it was like, "man if im getting these growth spurts at reservoir changes, what growth and stability am i missing if i was feeding fresh every time?"

Ultimately, im not sold on strictly growing in hydroponic nutrient anymore. Or, its not my path at this point in time. If i come back fully, or just partialy, only time will tell. A synganic, or an organic base and some synthetic nutrients added seem to be leading me to where i am today.

I got some reading to do with that article, see if i can wrap my head around some of the articles workings.

Your plants look great. Appreciate you sharing!!

 

[gmanwho]

@greyfader few questions. Hope i can get my question or questions make sense. bean awhile since i viewed the ppk threads.

Do you send out for leaf tissue analyssis often? or just read the leafs for deficiency and or changes like so many of us do?

Then not being able to specifically measure individual NPK an other values in solution after the first initial mix, how do you base your nutrient strength add backs?

say If they drink 10gallons, and ec meter showed the solution stayed flat at 2 ec, or the orginal input value, not feeding more then drinking, or drinking more then feeding etc etc. do you just add back that 10 gal of fresh water and nutrient at the 100% of desired or 2 ec value?

Or, like if they drink 10 gal, an the ec rises slightly to 2.2, do you add water back till the solution equals orginal value of 2 ec? lets call it 2 gallons water to make ec original again, then the remainng 8 gals of addback back at 2ec or full strength?

Maybe once or twice, an if ec is continuing to rise regularly, maybe its time to lower the ec input 1.8 or 1.7 till they are drinking at that level?

Or whats the approach of this ?

 

[greyfader]

@grefader good to hear health is cooperating.


Not sure how to quote correctly, doesnt seem to work right with firefox web browser. so ill quote this way

i'm still using the "mass balance" principles of feeding and it works quite well.


i don't know what method you are using now but i can't imagine you having many nutrient problems with your experience.

Im fairly certain this article wasnt around when i messed with ppk or recirculating nutrient, maybe abit of the principles of wue, but this article brings things to another level. (article date june/aug 2022).

sounds like the principle has been around, but prior i havent seen somethig explaining as in-depth as this article does. I glanced over the article, an i really should spend some time with it.

I still plan to feeding the lower sections of the sip plants with an add back approach. This WUE or mass balance principle hopefully can shine some light. Appreciate the artice link.

Always had problems with nutrients after a few days. Whether the add back was straight water, RO, 50% or 75% or 100% of the orginal EC. Things would go sour. Then I would replace the solution and i would get growth spurts, an deficiencys would clear up or stop. An i always montitored PH an EC.

So eventually it was like, "man if im getting these growth spurts at reservoir changes, what growth and stability am i missing if i was feeding fresh every time?"

Ultimately, im not sold on strictly growing in hydroponic nutrient anymore. Or, its not my path at this point in time. If i come back fully, or just partialy, only time will tell. A synganic, or an organic base and some synthetic nutrients added seem to be leading me to where i am today.

I got some reading to do with that article, see if i can wrap my head around some of the articles workings.

Your plants look great. Appreciate you sharing!!

the cbd plants were in coco without any organic inputs. just straight Jack's formula.

but for the last 2 years i've been carefully trying some organics with the Jack's.

the personal plant, the BlueStar OG, was grown in 6 gals #2 perlite with 3 lbs worm castings and an 18 oz solo cup of diatomaceous earth mixed into the top 3" of the media. in the liquid feed, in addition to the Jack's, i used 1ml per gallon Mr Fulvic and a heaping teaspoon of Maxicrop kelp powder per 30 gals of mix.

this noticeably bumped the flavor profile up a little.

Mr Fulvic is a powerful chelator and i was able to cut back on the Jack's concentration by about 100 ppm at the .5 conversion.

i was feeding about ec 1.8 and went to ec 1.6 and still maintained the growth rate using about 1200 umols of light.

while experimenting with the PPK a few times i intentionally went as long as possible without changing the solution just to see how far i could go and one time i went 8 months in my room in Oregon running a perpetual schedule. still producing healthy plants and good weight the whole time.

no solution was ever removed from the system during this time. all input only.

but since going back to personal production i have been changing it between grows when cleaning out the system for the next run.

but, i intend to do several changeouts during my next one just for effect to see if i can do better. i will dump the reservoir at the end of veg going to 12/12, and at the end of the stretch, approx 3 weeks later.

and i will dump it 10 days before harvest and feed plain PH adjusted water.

 

[gmanwho]

Ya fulvics are interesting.

there's an interesting podcast i listened to of the chemists or dr faust that started or owns Bioag. He gets into an interesting conversation on how humics & fulvics trigger positive responses or secondary metabolic responses within the plant.

Definitely worth a listen, or all of the series of "Cannabis culitvation science" Podcasts, episode 11 drFaust is guest speaker

I use his tm-7 and ion-14 sparingly

Another interesting point he states is that all fulvics arent equal, availibilty or other points of interest. and then goes to state that orgin of the fulvic in the earths crust plays a big part, they are not all equal or a postive influence. Might have been his thesis papers or experiments they carried out during college that promted him to persue the business he started, or something to this effect. been awhile since i listened to that epsiode

Sounds like Glacial rock dust has some interesting potential as well. Or Specific clays for retaining properties desired for proper cec exchange.

 

[greyfader]

Ya fulvics are interesting.

there's an interesting podcast i listened to of the chemists or dr faust that started or owns Bioag. He gets into an interesting conversation on how humics & fulvics trigger positive responses or secondary metabolic responses within the plant.

Definitely worth a listen, or all of the series of "Cannabis culitvation science" Podcasts, episode 11 drFaust is guest speaker

I use his tm-7 and ion-14 sparingly

Another interesting point he states is that all fulvics arent equal, availibilty or other points of interest. and then goes to state that orgin of the fulvic in the earths crust plays a big part, they are not all equal or a postive influence. Might have been his thesis papers or experiments they carried out during college that promted him to persue the business he started, or something to this effect. been awhile since i listened to that epsiode

Sounds like Glacial rock dust has some interesting potential as well. Or Specific clays for retaining properties desired for proper cec exchange.

There is a paper by Dr Nirit Bernstein in which she claims humics in high doses inhibit THC development. Fulvics are a subclass of humics but she does not distinguish between them in this study.

As you know, perlite has virtually no CEC. but adding the worm castings and the diatomaceous earth gave the medium a significant CEC. And the DE is amorphous silicon dioxide, which is plant-available. the plant stems had that shelf node look at harvest so i think the plants used it. way cheaper than any bottled silicate for plants. there's a product sold by the Dicalite Corp called Harvest Hero that is DE-coated perlite.

Harvest Hero Enhanced Perlite Soil Mix – Harvest Hero

www.harvesthero.com

it's expensive and i can mix perlite and DE myself but they talk about the benefits some.

no telling what all the worm castings are doing as they are so complex and variable. but it helps create a usable CEC, provides nutrients, and and suppplies incredible assortment of micro-life.

while most of the DE and the worm castings remain in the medium, trapped in the perlite, some of it ends up on the floor of all the reservoirs. and so is dissolving into the solution from there.

i was worried that these organic inputs might cause some kind of bad bacterial bloom in a closed-loop recirculating system but that has not happened.

the next run i will increase the ratio of worm castings and DE to perlite. slightly, like maybe 25%.

this is also a cheap way to do it. you know me, i'm a famous cheap bastard. all components are very inexpensive. Jack's nutrients. Perlite in 4 cu ft bags and i'm recovering about 75-80% and reusing it. it's incredibly easy to clean by throwing it into a kiddie pool full of water and stirring it with a boat paddle. let it settle then scoop the floating stuff off the top with a swimming pool net.

i get the worm castings and DE from Home Depot. may not be the best quality, i don't know, but the performance is repeatable.

i get the Mr Fulvic and Maxicrop kelp powder from Amazon. all cheap and easy to get.

i use 85% phosphoric acid for ph down. I get it from here; https://dudadiesel.com/search.php?query=phosphoric. incredibly cheap compared to any online grow store's products. btw, these folks also sell micron filtering bags and screens. they sell DIY bio-diesel stuff.

well, i hope all this BS helps someone, Ya'll have a good 'un!

 

[gmanwho]

@greyfader Hell ya I know Duda diesel, think they are in texas, Found them on ebay years ago when i was interested into diesel to veg oil conversion. I got plenty of metal hose quick connects from them. Their micron mesh bags for filtering veg oil. An i use there mesh strainers that go over 5gall bucket to clean up the Keif from the tumbler i made

I was surprised how high the cec is for vermiculite.

Appreciate the response


When u get a second read post 151, I think I was editing it when your did one of your last posts here.

I was editing an I had to go take care of something an when I came back there was new posts

Thanks man!!

 

[LndRcLvr]

Wow!

I've just been reading through this thread, and thanks for sharing your life Like others have said you don't fuck around. Go big or go home, No compromises and continually aiming for perfection in everything you do. I like to think I am a similar person, but you my friend ( and maybe because you are American ) just do it on another level! I have barely a quarter of an acre of home and garden here in the UK and that's enough for me! Your home looks incredible and is your playground too. What a life! (I'm guessing you are not married, although judging by your attitude to life you are probably married to a supermodel)

Keep it real , and go easy on yourself, it's a heavy cross to bear being one of those non stop people.

 

[greyfader]

@greyfader few questions. Hope i can get my question or questions make sense. bean awhile since i viewed the ppk threads.

Do you send out for leaf tissue analyssis often? or just read the leafs for deficiency and or changes like so many of us do?

Then not being able to specifically measure individual NPK an other values in solution after the first initial mix, how do you base your nutrient strength add backs?

say If they drink 10gallons, and ec meter showed the solution stayed flat at 2 ec, or the orginal input value, not feeding more then drinking, or drinking more then feeding etc etc. do you just add back that 10 gal of fresh water and nutrient at the 100% of desired or 2 ec value?

Or, like if they drink 10 gal, an the ec rises slightly to 2.2, do you add water back till the solution equals orginal value of 2 ec? lets call it 2 gallons water to make ec original again, then the remainng 8 gals of addback back at 2ec or full strength?

Maybe once or twice, an if ec is continuing to rise regularly, maybe its time to lower the ec input 1.8 or 1.7 till they are drinking at that level?

Or whats the approach of this ?

Well, using the PPK system, i get very few nutrient imbalance displays and fast, lush growth. in the face of that, I have never felt the need to have tissue analysis done.

what few displays i have seen were caused by letting PH go too far one way or the other.

i monitor the solution and steer the recirculating part of the system using an elevated volume tank.

for example, i have been using Jack's 5-12-26 with calcinit and mag sulphate since Oct 2010. i know it is balanced for cannabis when mixed at their recommended ratios.

their full strength recommendation is, per gallon, 3.6 gr jack's, 1.2 gr mag sulphate, and 2.4 gr calcinit. or a ratio of 3-1-2 by weight. this is not NPK, it is the mixing ratio. this will produce an ec of about 2.1 or 1050 ppm at the .5 conversion.

this is too strong for anything but the initial loading of the recirculating part. after the recirculating part of the system is at the right operating level i mix the elevated volume/feed/mixing tank the first time at 3 gr Jack's, 1 gr mag sulphate, and 2 gr calcinit per gal. this produces an ec of about 1.8.

i will observe the direction the recirculating part is trending and make a decision about increasing or decreasing the concentration of the next load of nutrients mixed in the elevated volume tank.

typically, during stretch the plant is still behaving as if it is in vegetative mode. so it is ripping the nutrients out of the solution at a high rate. but somewhere towards the end of week 3 of stretch the character of the solution changes and the recirculating solution begins accumulating instead of depleting. this is a classic demonstration of selective uptake by the plant. this is when doing unit grows, not perpetual.

usually, at that point i will mix the next load at 2.4 gr Jack's, .8 gr mag sulphate, and 1.6 gr calcinit producing an ec of about 1.2.

but the recirculating part is higher in concentration so the input is off-setting the tendency to accumulate.

you can steer PH the same way. in the PPK system, PH will tend to slowly rise if left unchecked.

so you see the recirculating part rising and you correct PH down in the mixing tank to bring it back down or keep it at a certain level. while you may have used 5.8 in the initial loading you might use a PH of 5.2-5.4 in the mixing tank so that as it feeds it automatically corrects the PH in the recirculating part to the desired level.

one of the basic tenets of the PPK system is the ability to steer the solution in the recirculating part from the elevated volume tank.. i never make corrections in the recirculating part.

about the elemental profiles. if your feed ratio is balanced for the cannabis plant and you are continuously topping off the recirculating part with the same ratio, it takes a very long time for the recirculating solution to get out of whack.

the use of the float valve is critical to the function of the PPK system. we use an inexpensive float valve to act as a nutrient and PH controller.

the stupid float valve obviates the necessity of using nutrient dosing or PH injectors and all the expensive monitoring and control gear the goes with it.

we ran the entire 10k sq ft facility with one big recirculating reservoir and one big volume tank.

no problems or displays, just fast growing, healthy plants.

i hope this makes sense, if i missed anything or need to clarify further just ask.

 

[gmanwho]

@greyfader appreciate you taking the time writing all that out. Your nute program pretty much sums up most of the ppk runs i did prior to going to dtw. Back then i followed similar nute approach.

Except i used a ph doser to lower the rez ph and ran co2 900-1200ppm.

1g per gal of mag sulphate wasnt enough with just epsom salt alone. eventually settled on running giles magnesium sulphate. and or mixed ratios of mag nitrate an mag sulphate. once the mag ratio seemed to be spot on whould phase out the mag nitrate. carried that over to the dtw too. and still today with the dtw coco or veg feeds.

Added in plant products micro trace elements 0.15gpg
Agsil 16h pot silicate at 0.15 gpg


there are other things used today, but not at that time with the ppk systems.

 

[greyfader]

@greyfader appreciate you taking the time writing all that out. Your nute program pretty much sums up most of the ppk runs i did prior to going to dtw. Then followed similar nute approach.

Except i used a ph doser to lower the rez ph and ran co2 900-1200ppm.

1g per gal of mag sulphate wasnt enough with just epsom salt alone. eventually settled on running giles magnesium sulphate. and or mixed ratios of mag nitrate an mag sulphate. once the mag ratio seemed to be spot on whould phase out the mag nitrate. carried that over to the dtw too. and still today with the dtw coco or veg feeds.

Added in plant products micro trace elements 0.15gpg
Agsil 16h pot silicate at 0.15 gpg


there are other things used today, but not at that time with the ppk systems.

i never added mag sulfate using HPS lights as Jack's formula has 6.36%.. but at the switch to LED lighting, i had to increase the mag ratio.

why did you feel the need to do tissue testing? i can see still doing one once in a while even if your plants look great just to see what's happening. I've seen your plants and you grow nice plants that are usually visually perfect. so what prompted the testing?

 

[gmanwho]

@greyfader I have not sent out for leaf tissue analyses. I just know that a good portion of the many scholarly articles ive read usually state that tissue analyses is only the really really way to tell what the plant is lacking. Almost the backbone of future feeding. You could have picture perfect leafs but actual data of what the inside is made of would be nice to view.


closest ive done is mess with squishing a fan leaf an looking at the sap in a brix meter or light refractor. then in some way work towards getting a thicker sap for the next reading. monitoring sap denisty could be a simple reassurance your nutrient an other energy is stacked going into flower. however i dont test brix often as i should.

If the leaf was lacking nutrient or other forms of energy the brix would be low. I feel like high brix levels prior are often associated with higher terpenes or total cannabinoids in the final product.


A few other thoughts, or i feel, that once a deficiency is shown early flower to 80-90% of being finished, it will be to late to really correct the problem. Can only prevent it from getting worse from that point on.

So then in my head i wonder which window of developent, of the many many plant cycles that take place, did i just interrupt AND SLOW? By me not providing all the necessary things for the plant to carry out all it's process without interference, within the limitations of the envrionment and or genetic capabilities.?

I feel like this is what would help me getting the plant into the last 25% of what its capable of, or the last 10% of its physical limits.

Light is the driver of the plant, dictates alot, an other things need to be stacked and waiting in reserve. If a deficiency shows, i can lower the light intensity, try to correct the problem, and prep for next run better.

So the questions become how do i really know how ready the plant is to take on the flowering stage? Then in the end, could i have grown a better plant to produce a better product?