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Land of a thousand colas, part deux

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
Trying to understand Volatile sulfur compounds, amino acids, whats necessary for building blocks of life. Efficient processing and energy storage, carbon fixation, so i never become deficient. Trying to understand a little more of these multiple metabolic cycles within the plant an roots, and soil micro biology. An learning for my health and well being at the same time. So i can even remotely try to provide everything it needs.

This has pretty much consumed the better part of my free time lately. I know one thing is certain, my new setups can provide an environment that will push the limits of what the plant is capable of. My lack of understanding of whats academically known, and then the unknowns, to this point is a huge barrier.

Interesting read on amino acids and plant up uptake & processing an movement

https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2021.772810/full



NL5xhazeA S2 , Piffcoast Farms PC3. loving the plant structure, branch node shelving, elasticity, relatively easy grow. pics from about 10days ago. start of 12/12 in the new sip buckets.

Had to feed them 2 times, the soil mix definitely was not providing enough NPK an mag at first. But the soil never sat after mixed, an microbes have not really been active for very long either. So im sure it will get better as things release.

i havent connected the drain/ water table control yet. i want to finish wet dry cycles to about day 20, then i will provide a constant low nutrient moisture from below. An a blumat soaker hose from above

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Some outdoor Planet of the grapes x I95, gonna run 4 of the 8 again indoor next flower room schedule. Basically had 2 phenos. one i call green leaf an the other purple or black leaf.

Of the 8 seeds i started , the black leaf pheno an profile was the most dominate with 4 to 5 plants showing . 2 green , then 2 or so a mix of both. The structure was great. alot to be desired. the high is nice an productive. but i haven't smoked them all yet.

One green pheno smells like bone broth, with maybe hint of mushroom or earthy smell. Thought that was interesting.

Most black phenos smell of a grape, grape fruit to light watermelon. lightly sweet, like some sort of vaporish sweet tart candy , or koolaid powder before you mix it. meets a cleaner. Like if u mixxed the koolaid an you got some powder into the air as u dumped it in. almost nostalgic, cause you wont catch me drinking that shit today. i cringe when i start thinking about food dyes and shit tons of sugar in a diet

taken at 60days, had a shitty year for growing. lots of rainy and cloudy days. few started getting some budrot. but again it was a wet year.. i also felt i was behind with levels of nutrients with the mix, or i couldve feed them a little more.


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eric2028

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Veteran
Hi, seems like your experienced with the TrolMaster wcs. I’m considering upgrading to the pro and running some. How’s the data logging work with the pro? Can you view it on a computer?
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
Hi, seems like your experienced with the TrolMaster wcs. I’m considering upgrading to the pro and running some. How’s the data logging work with the pro? Can you view it on a computer?
Hey eric2028. I saw your post in you’re thread, it’s been awhile, good to see your still at it.

Tbh ’m surprised there isn’t a trolmaster thread on here.

I have mixed feelings about the wcs2. It’s not perfect, but I think going in knowing that it’s only a tool, an not depending on it to water for me, it’s a great asset to the hydro x pro.

If I get my ass in gear I can setup my run off ph ec/temp probes an then i can monitor my runoff and or add reservoir probes an graph those as well and Compare

When wcs2 sensor first came out I had 2 of 3 fail, they started getting warm an wouldn’t calibrate. Apparently those production issues have been resolved. Tech support sent replacements quickly once I gave them serial numbers.

With the sensor it is absolutely important to learn how to calibrate the sensors. and i believe 100% saturation reading has to happen first. water to runoff ,wait like 5 min for it to stop dripping, an set that 100% wc. then probe goes into a dry batch of your same medium your using, now set you dry or 0% wc calibration point.


Then your nutrient input ec. Every new run your wc an ec need to recalibrated to the new medium. these numbers will vary some coco bag to coco bag. Because you can calibrate the sensor, it can be used for soil coco rockwool or similar mediums. As aeration % changes in medium, it is a must to calibrate.

Or in the case of ec calibration you can “zero out “ any starting ec in the medium.

I believe growpro are calibrated to rockwool at factory, and you cannot calibrate. which has a different holding capacity.

I really like the Hydrox pro, but I haven’t seen many other advanced controllers to compare to. So far the controllers been good.

A few complaints is the trolmaster server occasionally acts up, but the service is included an not a paid monthly service.

Also getting ahold of tech support has been getting more difficult as they have grown. I used to have a direct number to russell. now its a wait in que, then once they realize i called with something more advanced, i now have to wait to talk to the engineers.

hydro x pro is software driven ,so it’s nice as they advance the controller programming or fix bugs, it’s just a download an rather quick install. They have advanced a good amount of addons in the past 4-5 years , a lot in the last 2 updates. It is amazing what you can do.

I seen the teros related or aroya online. They seem pretty nice.

But the trolmaster hydrox is a full environmental control too. So one would have to make a decision do I just want to monitor wc , or have more controls to. I would consider adding another system to monitor an or fail safe.


You can view all your data online on computer. An infact theres far more options/ adjustments u can make via browser then the mobile app. They still have bugs to work out but it seems trolmaster has been steadily becoming more reliable in my experience, other then getting ahold of tech support.

They have a lot of options and are still expanding.

Bottom line, Watching the drybacks an the medium ec throughout the plants life has brought valuable insight to nutrient strategies
 
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gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
Awesome, thanks again for your thoughts brother!
@eric2028 No problem.

I will say one of the most interesting things is seeing the moisture content change through out the plants phases of its life. Every variety is different, and then throw a ton of other environmental influence.

U can also watch your medium ec build up. and then change your feeding accordingly. Know when your in excess and building, or becoming deficient.

you have a better idea if u are feeding to much or to little, or am i close to "on point". riding that wave , and hopefully staying just under the threshhold. anticipating your next steps based on data given, or data from the last time you ran that plant.

i know u can see or get a feel when hand watering, or even if you have a drip system and a timer & pump setup. But to see an actual number representation and graph, then compare the last days info to base your future waterings. it gives such a deeper insight as to whats going on. Its hard to explain in text, but the ability to understand gets so much deeper.

watching on a graph the increase of dry downs as the plant grows an stretches into flower. seeing a progressive increase of drydown into next day, knowing everyday u supplied a metered ammount of water via dripper(assuming everything is correct).

knowing that the same ammount of feeding the past 5 days is now not enough. and now you know for certian you have to increase a few more pulse feedings every day.

or when plants hit a wall an immediately stop feeding. U can know literally the next day. not days later when you start realizing the medium is oversaturated. or something in excess now caused an antagonisom or lockup. You are closer to the point of change, so hopefully you can backup an pinpoint what caused that change. React to the event much quicker, before you see a canopy deficency. or loose days of bulking an the plant falls off its stride.

" shit, why did they stop feeding? what changed, an now whats throwing this off? is it time to skip a feeding an water only? did a heater not turn on last night an dryback wasnt normal?" the list is endless

seeing less dryback when the plants start to slow into senescense. now u can remove a few extra pulses. Watch the EC, now start to lower your feed strength, lower the total amount delivered per day, etc. You really get to see the plants change below the canopy as well.

so many solid reference points to build an understanding. or atleast thats the way i feel that way at this point.

I realize this could be to much for some people, an thats fine, but it honestly drives me deeper.

As margins get tighter, efficacy is becoming just as important as quality. Hell, cannabis is only one of a few things i can think of thats getting cheaper an cheaper. While so many things are becoming more expensive.

I am interestd in the aroya sensor setups, i think they just came out with a wireless setup. to have that as another reference would be good.

I believe customhydronutrients started carrying a line of wifi based sensors that where orginally used in other agricultral industry.

few more things can add at some other time, this post is already to long for most people
 
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gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
Painting some 92 OG bx3 pollen. Part of a project chaco started.

Hope i dont spread pollen in the garden to far. Going to be painting some pollen in a few phases. to many plants and individual projects to do all at once.

5 new 92og bx3 females to run.

12 males, narrowed down to 8. Got a few pages of notes taken throughout. the top 3 choices and top 5 males have bunch of similarities to the 92og, and or lucifer og traits.


The top 3 male choices get 1 branch each.
Then another branch gets combined pollen from top 5
Then another branch gets combined pollen of all 8.
5 individual branches to some females, some may only get top choice an or combined.

og an chem related clones will get all the pollen works. while some may get top 3 or an individual painting. have like 10-15 moms, an anohter bx.

8 males in this picture, day 20 give or take?

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So far Peach hashplant, GG4, pc3, Fam95, Point Break, 92og bx3 female 5 , all got some action.

Next few weeks Blue dream, headband, chaco ecsd & sour valley, chem d, rebel grown og chem,mac, lucifer og, dosi dos, chem ny, goldengoat x nl5haze, grape gello, and maybe a grape diamond x I95. an Im probably missing something
 
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gmanwho

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Veteran
Deadpanhead original peach in the new organic soil beds area.

I believe it’s a hashplant of sorts, but i could be wrong.

All i know is i got it from deadpanhead. He said its an old cut from southern oregon that an older grower buddy ran in greenhouses for a long time. not much more on that back story.

not the fastest veg at first, but then she gets going. great stem rub, great structure. Smelled grape veg and early flower. but now day 42 she smells like a bag of starburst candy times 5.

first time running indoor. Outdoor product was nice but she can mold in my wet outdoor grow environment. but man last year was a tough wet year
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gmanwho

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setup the flow hood and pulled a bunch of equipment out of storage. been about 2 years since tried any tissue culture propagation. i am nothing more then a beginner at best.

Its been about 5 days now an no contaminants. The vessel media was wetter an softer then i had wished. Next time i gotta let the media dry with the cap off in front of hood, or start using micropore tape vents.

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**EDIT** adding this link

 
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gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
oh also, forgot to say, in regards to the chaco sour diesel cut. or other cuts that seem to have gotten weaker in time.

i was listening recently to a canna podcast about cannabis epigenitics and or plant morphology or similar discussions. Many topics all mixed in. ( i will need to go back an reference the speaker)

he was saying there is some evidence leaning that a cutting can change. It can POSSIBLY happen from the same mother or donor plant. what he suggested was that the rna (forget exact terminology) can be damaged by insect, pathogens (fungal bacterial viroid) , chemical or other environmental influences.

if say 1 of the 3 cuttings from the mother now had damaged or mutated alleles, that cutting would most likely go forward missing that genotype instruction set. Subsequently if those apical shoots rna was damaged, then that cutting became a mom for future cuttings, all future cuttings could now be changed forever. (Or something to this effect)

I maybe missing something, as i can only partially comprehend, and as i read more it seems the idea is starting to make abit more sense.

may be referred to when people co-mingle the term "genetic drift". When it is said that genetic drift should not happen clone to clone, now it may be apparent that it was outside influence that caused the mutation.
 
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ButterflyEffect

Well-known member
oh also, forgot to say, in regards to the chaco sour diesel cut. or other cuts that seem to have gotten weaker in time.

i was listening recently to a canna podcast about cannabis epigenitics and or plant morphology or similar discussions. Many topics all mixed in. ( i will need to go back an reference the speaker)

he was saying there is some evidence leaning that a cutting can change. It can POSSIBLY happen from the same mother or donor plant. what he suggested was that the rna (forget exact terminology) can be damaged by insect, pathogens (fungal bacterial viroid) , chemical or other environmental influences.

if say 1 of the 3 cuttings from the mother now had damaged or mutated alleles, that cutting would most likely go forward missing that genotype instruction set. Subsequently if those apical shoots rna was damaged, then that cutting became a mom for future cuttings, all future cuttings could now be changed forever. (Or something to this effect)

I maybe missing something, as i can only partially comprehend, and as i read more it seems the idea is starting to make abit more sense.

may be referred to when people co-mingle the term "genetic drift". When it is said that genetic drift should not happen clone to clone, now it may be apparent that it was outside influence that caused the mutation.
You, sir, are a rock star. There's simply no other way to say it. To say I'm impressed with what you've done is a major understatement. That all said, I stumbled on your thread while looking for info on how to possibly change my rooms from vert to horizontal and keep my 315 CMHs. You responded in a thread, I don't even remember which one, and there was a pic of your CMH/LED room. It's incredible how well-timed finding this thread was. I've been wanting to make some major changes and some of your posts have certainly helped get the thought process flowing here.

One of the things I've been wondering about was why my wedding cake clones while looking healthy, have almost no trichs at day 44. I just got done battling some pathogen issues at my site and the clones were most certainly taken from moms that had evidence of disease. You very well may have answered my question as to why in this very post.

Thanks for all you're doing and for sharing it with the community!
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey butterflyeffect, thanks for the praise.

While to truly know your issues, it may require some samples sent in for testing. Some are more obvious when you learn what to start looking for.

Try to figure out where it starts. I know personally my issues usually start at the cloning process. Sealing up or callus over the cutting is key.

I suggest splitting your stems when u take down the plants or even when u toss the unneeded clones. check the pith for fungal or molds or discoloration. follow the split stem down into the crown area, this always is a problem area.

If you are getting inconsistent cloning its usually a sign of a pathogen has entered.
 
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ButterflyEffect

Well-known member
Hey butterflyeffect, thanks for the praise.

While to truly know your issues, it may require some samples sent in for testing. Some are more obvious when you learn what to stat looking for.

Try to figure out where it starts. I know personally my issues usually start at the cloning process. Sealing up or callus over the cutting is key.

I suggest splitting your stems when u take down the plants or even when u toss the unneeded clones. check the pith for fungal or molds or discoloration. follow the split stem down into the crown area, this always is a problem area.

If you are getting inconsistent cloning its usually a sign of a pathogen has entered.
Thanks for the reply!

Yeah, I finally pinpointed where the pathogens were coming from and I've (hopefully) abated it. I've had 100% clone rates here in the past so I know it'll be possible again. Where I learned was that I could actually be passing on the disease with every clone taken from a compromised mother even if she didn't show signs(many in veg don't until they get to flower, typically after stretch).

I'm fairly confident that once the source is eliminated, the plants will be fine. In my opinion, too much stock is given to keeping everything hyper-clean all the time. The plants, when healthy, have an amazing ability to knock back minor levels in the environment. What my plants experienced was an excess of pathogens that overloaded their immune response systems.

Going forward, what I'd like to do is start introducing amendments to my regimen to bolster the health and response of the plants. I currently grow in straight perlite using Jacks 321. I'm getting some push from some fellow growers to go full organic but I'm honestly not sold on the idea. I believe(or I'm fooling myself lol) that I can add in the elements(aminos, carbs, etc) that can bring about the health and terp profiles I may be missing while chem feeding.

Anyway, sorry for the hijack of your amazing setup! May your new year be filled with all the rewards!
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
Thanks for the reply!

Yeah, I finally pinpointed where the pathogens were coming from and I've (hopefully) abated it. I've had 100% clone rates here in the past so I know it'll be possible again. Where I learned was that I could actually be passing on the disease with every clone taken from a compromised mother even if she didn't show signs(many in veg don't until they get to flower, typically after stretch).

I'm fairly confident that once the source is eliminated, the plants will be fine. In my opinion, too much stock is given to keeping everything hyper-clean all the time. The plants, when healthy, have an amazing ability to knock back minor levels in the environment. What my plants experienced was an excess of pathogens that overloaded their immune response systems.

Going forward, what I'd like to do is start introducing amendments to my regimen to bolster the health and response of the plants. I currently grow in straight perlite using Jacks 321. I'm getting some push from some fellow growers to go full organic but I'm honestly not sold on the idea. I believe(or I'm fooling myself lol) that I can add in the elements(aminos, carbs, etc) that can bring about the health and terp profiles I may be missing while chem feeding.

Anyway, sorry for the hijack of your amazing setup! May your new year be filled with all the rewards!

In your situation, so where do you think your problem is coming from?

100% agree its all based on the plants immune system and the "load" in the plant and or environmental influence. Then the variables on how the pathogen feeds or replicates itself. Its absolutely mind boggling an fascinating.

I have seen plants completely thrive in soil, but clones from same batch die in hydro or any system that has a higher water saturation . My reaction in this scenario leans towards pathogens more "water based" or water born.

I also feel that when a plant goes from the vegetative stage to full flowering it stops repairing itself, or to some effect its immune system slows, and focuses more on flowering then healing or repairing growth. Now certain pathogens start winning the race. Where before in veg the plants immune system kept them at bay. Now the pathogen starts winning and only now shows.

It is obvious ( in my head atleast ) a living soil can maintain a healthier biodiversity. Creating an environment that is more sutitable for microbes both good and bad. But ............This is where innoculating the medium with beneficial microbes is key! In turn a healthier environment can now host a higher rate of microbes that feed on microbes that are pathogenic to the plant.

Without diving to deep, in some way or another good and bad microbes have to feed. An the ones that plague us host on the plant. Now introduce Microbes that feast on other microbes. Bio fungicides, Things like actinovate ,howler, or are trichoderma based. Recharge, mycorhize, or the many.

I veered off my path when i stopped growing for 2 years. Had to take a few hits before i started to realize again. Once you acknowledge that every breath you take, its as simple but yet complicated that something is always trying to take over our body. It is no different in the plant.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5561662/



Definitely advise checking out @acespicoli posts over in the infirmary section. Really good collection of pathogen related info and scholarly articles

 
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ButterflyEffect

Well-known member
In your situation, so where do you think your problem is coming from?

100% agree its all based on the plants immune system and the "load" in the plant and or environmental influence. Then the variables on how the pathogen feeds or replicates itself. Its absolutely mind boggling an fascinating.

I have seen plants completely thrive in soil, but clones from same batch die in hydro or any system that has a higher water saturation . My reaction in this scenario leans towards pathogens more "water based" or water born.

I also feel that when a plant goes from the vegetative stage to full flowering it stops repairing itself, or to some effect its immune system slows, and focuses more on flowering then healing or repairing growth. Now certain pathogens start winning the race. Where before in veg the plants immune system kept them at bay. Now the pathogen starts winning and only now shows.

It is obvious ( in my head atleast ) a living soil can maintain a healthier biodiversity. Creating an environment that is more sutitable for microbes both good and bad. But ............This is where innoculating the medium with beneficial microbes is key! In turn a healthier environment can now host a higher rate of microbes that feed on microbes that are pathogenic to the plant.

Without diving to deep, in some way or another good and bad microbes have to feed. An the ones that plague us host on the plant. Now introduce Microbes that feast on other microbes. Bio fungicides, Things like actinovate ,howler, or are trichoderma based. Recharge, mycorhize, or the many.

I veered off my path when i stopped growing for 2 years. Had to take a few hits before i started to realize again. Once you acknowledge that every breath you take, its as simple but yet complicated that something is always trying to take over our body. It is no different in the plant.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5561662/



Definitely advise checking out @acespicoli posts over in the infirmary section. Really good collection of pathogen related info and scholarly articles

A part of the building where the grow is wound up having a breach in the roof in an area that I don't use but still more or less shared air space with the rest. I've since put on a new roof and remediated the room. The inner area is separated from everything else in its own envelope for insulative purposes and to keep anything nasty from breaching.

Funny hearing you mention the transition being vulnerable as I was just thinking about that the other day again. It's crossed my mind quite a bit over the years.

I also believe that I've never really gotten a handle on feeding properly with my setup and it's locked things out and messed with the pH. I'd really love to get away from hempy pots to something more predictable now that I have a steadier supply of water(I collect rainwater and the new roof added an additional gutter so more surface area). Whether I keep straight perlite remains to be seen.

That said, I want to start adding certain things to my Jacks that not only protect the plants but enhance the terp profile to somewhat mimic organic, at least that's what my mind tells me!

I notice that you're using Jacks. What do you do for substrate and fertigation?
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
A part of the building where the grow is wound up having a breach in the roof in an area that I don't use but still more or less shared air space with the rest. I've since put on a new roof and remediated the room. The inner area is separated from everything else in its own envelope for insulative purposes and to keep anything nasty from breaching.

Funny hearing you mention the transition being vulnerable as I was just thinking about that the other day again. It's crossed my mind quite a bit over the years.

I also believe that I've never really gotten a handle on feeding properly with my setup and it's locked things out and messed with the pH. I'd really love to get away from hempy pots to something more predictable now that I have a steadier supply of water(I collect rainwater and the new roof added an additional gutter so more surface area). Whether I keep straight perlite remains to be seen.

That said, I want to start adding certain things to my Jacks that not only protect the plants but enhance the terp profile to somewhat mimic organic, at least that's what my mind tells me!

I notice that you're using Jacks. What do you do for substrate and fertigation?
you should definitely look into setting up an air filter with hepa & a PCO. and run the PCO 24/7 in the room. Then use an ozone generator between runs to help sterilize the room.
https://thinkairpurifiers.com/pages/what-is-photocatalytic-oxidation

U can find them on ebay for like a $100. I bought a few from a company called oion, model lb-8001S with the pco an ozone generator too, 5and1 options. u can run the ozone independently.


an possbily a water filter setup with a uv light. or add pool shock to the reservoir. i still use the 28gram of pool shock to 1 gallon of water for a stock solution. then run 1-3 mill per gallon of that solution.

the soil beds or sips is a mix based off recommendations from dankfrank, but i upped the p & k about 50%, and upped the aeration in the mix to a total of 35-40% of total volume. Aeration is up from like 25% originally i want to say

the drip system lately ive been using bio365 coco , about 2gal- 2.5gal per plant. but adding about 20% of rice hulls. i like rice hulls as i fell its a cheap sterile aeration an i hope it may provide a place for good microbes to setup. Apparently it can be a silica source as well, but to what extent ive heard debates.

i sometimes put a gallon of perlite in a 5 gal paint strainer. then place that under the coco bag in the drip systems lower bucket with drain. roots often start utilizing the runoff and expand down there

I use alot of different things in the nutrient feeds. i do feel organic additves can help the plant produce more oils an enhance the profile. a synthetic base nutrient an some organic additives. in all there's like probably 15-20 additives i use on a flowering basis. beneficial bacteria / fungi mixes, compost teas, guano's, enzymes, sea weed/ kelp extracts, silica, fulvic an humic acid sources.

setting the 30 gal cone tank air lift tea brewer again. i brew different teas and try to reproduce microbes from a scoop or 2. simple clean batches of teas go into the drip system, heavier teas get hand watered in.

for feeding volume and timing its kinda some sort of crop steering plan. each site has 2-3 netafim pressure compensating no drain drip emmiters. I wait an hour or 2 into lights on, then pulse feeds over an hour till some run off, then some maintence waterings after if needed. still trying to wrap my head around how an when to introduce water stress.
 
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ButterflyEffect

Well-known member
you should definitely look into setting up an air filter with hepa & a PCO. and run the PCO 24/7 in the room. Then use an ozone generator between runs to help sterilize the room.
https://thinkairpurifiers.com/pages/what-is-photocatalytic-oxidation

U can find them on ebay for like a $100. I bought a few from a company called oion, model lb-8001S with the pco an ozone generator too, 5and1 options. u can run the ozone independently.


an possbily a water filter setup with a uv light. or add pool shock to the reservoir. i still use the 28gram of pool shock to 1 gallon of water for a stock solution. then run 1-3 mill per gallon of that solution.

the soil beds or sips is a mix based off recommendations from dankfrank, but i upped the p & k about 50%, and upped the aeration in the mix to a total of 35-40% of total volume. Aeration is up from like 25% originally i want to say

the drip system lately ive been using bio365 coco , about 2gal- 2.5gal per plant. but adding about 20% of rice hulls. i like rice hulls as i fell its a cheap sterile aeration an i hope it may provide a place for good microbes to setup. Apparently it can be a silica source as well, but to what extent ive heard debates.

i sometimes put a gallon of perlite in a 5 gal paint strainer. then place that under the coco bag in the drip systems lower bucket with drain. roots often start utilizing the runoff and expand down there

I use alot of different things in the nutrient feeds. i do feel organic additves can help the plant produce more oils an enhance the profile. a synthetic base nutrient an some organic additives. in all there's like probably 15-20 additives i use on a flowering basis. beneficial bacteria / fungi mixes, compost teas, guano's, enzymes, sea weed/ kelp extracts, silica, fulvic an humic acid sources.

setting the 30 gal cone tank air lift tea brewer again. i brew different teas and try to reproduce microbes from a scoop or 2. simple clean batches of teas go into the drip system, heavier teas get hand watered in.

for feeding volume and timing its kinda some sort of crop steering plan. each site has 2-3 netafim pressure compensating no drain drip emmiters. I wait an hour or 2 into lights on, then pulse feeds over an hour till some run off, then some maintence waterings after if needed. still trying to wrap my head around how an when to introduce water stress.
I can't do an air filtration system due to how I draw air through the common spaces in the building. I've given it thought over the years but I dropped the idea. The ozone generator, now that's an idea I hadn't thought of before! I do have one that I use for car detailing. Can't believe I never thought of that. Thanks! Frankly, before the issue I had with that one room, I never had an air quality issue.

Since I collect rainwater I have a 4 stage filtration system including a UV filter. I had bad experiences with trying to sterilize the water in the past. If the amount of crap in the water happened to be higher than the amount of bleach, there would be an outbreak. Plus, you're committed to doing it because when you stop it all comes back tenfold since you've also killed any beneficials in the substrate. I gleaned some advice for a user here, Creeper Park, I believe, about letting the rainwater do its thing. It's been pretty good, water-wise, over the past few years.

That's an interesting system you have there. I'm always looking to tweak things, especially now that I have the water volume. I never really did before this year so when I started, I did hempy pots. I still run them currently. They're 1G paint buckets so their capacity is a little over 1.5G. I drilled the holes less than an inch from the bottom so they would dry out a bit quicker but I've gone as far as I can with them. They're currently fed by a manifold connected to a sump pump in a 25G res. The amount I feed changes based mostly on where they are in the cycle. It works but it's a pain to keep all 3 rooms well-oiled, so to speak. At least veg is manual feed for now. They're all 100% perlite if I hadn't mentioned that already.

I don't know that I'm ready for coco. Seems like a recipe for disaster for me. The whole charging it thing and all the ambiguity that goes with that, I just don't know. A friend of mine has been trying to get me to switch and go all organic as well, of course, but I'm not sold. I like knowing what all of my major inputs are. I can do a dash of this and that with organic amendments but not the main things. He also insists that I can't have a thriving rootzone because I'm in perlite but I'm not sold on that thought either. Frankly, my biggest issue is getting the feed strength and frequency dialed in since it's not just the perlite but the hempy res that factors into it.

I'm gonna have to take a dive into what I'll add amendment-wise. I think the key to top quality is in there, genetics aside, of course. I can already pull 4 zips a plant in those containers with plants in the 30-36" range at the end of stretch. Although, I'll be keeping them more toward the 30" now that I finally got around to manifolding. That should help with the yield and the labor.

You really have a hell of a system there! I'm envious for sure! I wanted at least some of that control but being perpetually broke, I designed, built, and programmed arduino controllers to manage heat/ac/dehumidification and misting.

Thanks for taking the time to read and respond. I feel more comfortable here on the board than I do on youtube or whatever the kiddies are scamming people with these days. I try to find the members who I know are a part of the brain trust, not just hawking things for views.
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
Original Peach came out to be one of my favorites in recent memory. Really has something that reminds me of a blueberry i ran awhile ago, and or the grape hashplant. Mixture of both maybe. Maybe blue digiberry.

memories blend. but the peach has this musty up front peach sweetness and a smooth blueberry ending.

thou i haven't crunched numbers yet, very happy. And I know there's room for improvement. The density is close to being on point. But the quality of the high and the coverage is there. Smells and taste are a bump up from regular coco dtw i've ran. the only thing that comes close imo was the coco dtw system that i had a tea brewer setup as reservoir.

Trying to incorporate teas an beneficial microbes into coco systems with linked together drainage is a point less battle. All the shit that can harbor in the drainage biofilm screams pathogens!! so onto the next ..



this pick might have been closer to 60-65 days

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deadpanhead original peach clone around 72 days, chop an drying


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