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KBS, KFB or Freedom Bucket questions...

BruceLeeroy

Active member
quick question on the carbon scrubbers. all the hydro stores say you need the vortex blowers for these. any truth to that or will a dayton work? why is it so many hydro stores are run by shysters? i'm thinking i might be better off using that 400 cfm to scrub if it'll work and get a bigger vortex to vent and mix with the ozone.

dont ever say god doesn't have a sense of humor. ever put a ton of work into building a room and then have it flood from too much rain? lol.
 
G

Guest

Forget the hydro stores Bruce..........Ebay is the way............You didnt see my post about hangin scrubbers w/fans attached in the sealed room to kill the smell and recirculate air.......pm me if nobody else shows up.........PEACE......DHF............
 

BruceLeeroy

Active member
actually i had read that post a long long time ago and apparently had just killed the brain cells holding that memory. thanks for the reminder lol. yeah, i'd prefer not to have to vent at all as with my setup it will be much easier to just control smell and feed with massive co2. only thing i'm worried about there is over co2'ing the air. i was thinking of a slow (1 cfm) flow of co2 dropped right ontop of the plants for like 30 minutes to bring the room slowly to 1500 ppm, then after a 20 minute pause venting the room through ozone for 10 minutes and then starting over. would it be better to bring the room rapidly to 1500 in 10 minutes or so and let sit for 40 before venting or to do it nice and slow and make sure they're getting a nice healthy constant supply? once i can afford a nice PPM monitor/controller it'll be a moot point but for now i'm far to broke to shell out the necessary dollars for one and will have to use just a typical regulator (ick)i'm also thinking i'm gonna go for the whole works. venting w/ozone, a carbon scrubber AND a vaportek outside the room. if a person plays their cards right, odor is one of the very few things that can get a person nailed so i'm thinking better too much than too little.

does seeing 3400-5000 watts of light in a 12x12 room make anyone else feel giddy? lol i always knew it would be bright, but i have "seen the light" lol
 

BlindDate

Active member
Veteran
Your going to waste a lot of Co2 if you vent every 20 minutes. I read somewhere that the average room takes 3 hours to come down to normal from 1500 ppm. Best to get a meter.
 

BruceLeeroy

Active member
sorry i guess i didn't make that real clear blinddate. i'm going to release co2 for 30 minutes, pause for 20, then vent for 10. it'll be a total 1 hr cycle. a meter is one of the first things i will buy when i can. do you think the 3 hour thing applies to a room packed to the gills with trees? thats definitely good info though and the best i have yet. maybe i'll do a two hour release.

according to my calculations, with the room up and running with all equipment running, my power bill should be about 100$ more than it normally would be. roughly 2000 kw-hrs per month. i'm lucky, power is cheap where i'm at. the thing that worries me most about this is that my normal power consumption will go from about 900 kwhrs a month to 2500 kwhrs during the duration of this. in fact i'd say thats my single biggest fear. i only plan on one run at this location before i find a more suitable place. i've thought about changing the power record to a different name so it looks like someone else moved in and had a clean slate but i dont think that really makes that much difference. any input on the power deal people? call me foolish but i wont steal power. i don't want to be stolen from, so i certainly wont do it to another (even if a huge company). it's all gotta start somewhere.

peace
 
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HyGradeChronic

Active member
BUNCHA BUCKETHEADS!!!

BUNCHA BUCKETHEADS!!!

..... bunch a cwazy bucketheads, thas wha cha all r... :pointlaug
..... TEE HEE!!!!!
..... peace
..... HGC


 
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BruceLeeroy

Active member
Lol. it's numbered so i think i'll hazard an answer!

let me start out with the fag thing. i want to point out that i did not call you a fag. i did not agree that you were a fag. i did not even go so far as to hint that you are a fag. all i did was point out that there are different connotations to the word "fag" as used in the context he used it than to refer to a homosexual. i did this because it has always bothered me that the other uses of the word "fag" are ignored, even though they have a much longer and glorious past than the use of the day, which implies homosexuality. my purpose in that statement was not to call you a fag, it was to point out the closed mindedness of our society that when someone says the word "fag" we all leap to the homosexual conclusion, and i was telling him he shouldn't feel the need to defend his use of the word in a sexual context. i did not say you were a fag. i did not hint that you were a fag. i did not aggree that you were a fag. i did not even go so far as to hint to agree that you were a fag. you're right, i dont know you, and calling you a fag would be very uncool. if you felt that i was calling you a fag, i would like to point out three things to you. 1. that was not my intent, i sincerely apologize. 2. the english language is just about as ambiguous as they come. 3. sometimes things just come out wrong and leave room for misinterpretation.

as far as the you leaving for three weeks, you're right. it wasn't very nice of everyone to just assume you were turning your nose up at us. we all assumed the worst pretty much. my favorite saying about the word "assume" is that it makes an ASS out of U and ME. i'd probably be quite pissed as well. all i can say in our defense is that look at it from our standpoint. 1. you're a man who has an intimate knowledge of this system. 2. you gave us some info on it. 3. you have access to, as you put it, "hundreds of these threads" 4. you posted twice and then disappeared without trace or warning while the thread went on to get hot and heavy. 5. there has always been huge catfights over this system (i think it's all the high voltages, causes magnetic fields that make people act mean). it was certainly uncool of us all to assume you weren't going to help, but all things considered can you at least admit that we simply made a bad call off the info available? of course you shouldn't have been expected to tell us you were leaving for three weeks, but short that knowledge, we (I) simply made the wrong assumption.

i can't speak for why the others say what they do, i can only explain myself. and apologize for things i do wrong, or things i say that are wide open enough to be misinterpretted. i'm sorry you took offense at what i said. i'm doubly sorry that it will cost people (myself included) valuable information on this system. i did not mean to appear ungrateful, nor did i mean to jump on any bandwagons, although it's safe to say i rashly rushed to the assumption that you weren't interested in participating. i have thanked everyone that has offered info (even the incorrect stuff) over and over again, and let me say it again. thank you to everyone that is taking the time to make this an excellent thread. this means you too SYK. and again, sorry if i made you feel like i thought you were a fag. once again that was NOT my intention.

deciding what to share or what not to share is your decision. i certainly wont deem myself great enough to judge you on it. if you dont want to participate thats fine, i even understand after we (I) all assumed the worst. perhaps my start up IS pathetic. perhaps even i'm destined to fail. i'm sure i'll be able to do just fine, it'll simply take much longer than it would have taken without more input from experts. much more trial and error. i'll get to spend a few years re-inventing the wheel so to speak.

i'm hoping that this can get dropped and the thread can move on with or without (hopefully with) your input. i don't assume to know why others say what they do, but you all have a past i know nothing about so i'll leave that up to them if they want to respond in any way. i don't want to see this thread degenerate into the same negativity that so many have (not that those were yours or anyones fault in any way). this is by far the worst part of online communications. without intonation, facial expression and body language, things are ALWAYS wide open to misinterpretation.

another little tidbit in defense of my negativity..... i just spent thousands of dollars building a room to have the motherfucker flood with 2 inches of water. i've spent the last 4 days pulling shit out, sucking water, drying shit off, and putting it all back. cut me some slack lol. kids, this is why you NEVER EVER EVER have electrical shit on the floor lol. thank GOD i followed THAT rule.

anyway, back to the question at hand for all the experts. any input on the power question?

lol

peace
 

BruceLeeroy

Active member
out of sheer boredom i decided to check out different connotations of fag. here is what i found.

Main Entry: fag end
Function: noun
Etymology: earlier fag, from Middle English fagge flap
1 a : a poor or worn-out end : REMNANT b : the extreme end
2 a : the last part or coarser end of a web of cloth b : the untwisted end of a rope

Main Entry: 1fag
Pronunciation: 'fag
Function: verb
Inflected Form(s): fagged; fag·ging
Etymology: obsolete fag to droop, perhaps from fag (fag end)
intransitive senses
1 : to work hard : TOIL
2 : to act as a fag especially in an English public school <fagging for older boys during his first year>
transitive senses : to tire by strenuous activity : EXHAUST

Main Entry: 2fag
Function: noun
1 chiefly British : TOIL, DRUDGERY
2 a : an English public-school boy who acts as servant to an older schoolmate b : DRUDGE

Main Entry: fag·got
Pronunciation: 'fa-g&t
Function: noun
Etymology: origin unknown
usually disparaging : a male homosexual
- fag·got·ry /-g&-trE/ noun, usually disparaging
- fag·goty /-g&-tE/ adjective, usually disparaging

Main Entry: fag end
Function: noun
Etymology: earlier fag, from Middle English fagge flap
1 a : a poor or worn-out end : REMNANT b : the extreme end
2 a : the last part or coarser end of a web of cloth b : the untwisted end of a rope


see in actuality i called him an english schoolboy! lol j/k

peace
 

BruceLeeroy

Active member
wanted to add, on a more humorous note. many people lay down plastic over carpet both to seal the room as well as to protect the carpet. this is a mistake. we'll call this

BruceLeeroy's Ghetto Whole Room Humidifier

carpetted room + two inches water over entire carpet +fans to blow over carpet = most excellent 80% humidity.

beware of mold lol.
 
G

Guest

If anyone wants to get away from the drama......My ol` buddy INNER SANCTUM is doin a thread on krusty buckets at TOKECITY.COM with all manners of knowledge without the cryin............HGC(1 OF THE ORIGINAL BUCKETHEADS..TEEHEE).....hows it hangin dewd,,ltns..........AGYKSYK............Our negativity that got us banned.....lmao...........Only place IVE ever been banned was at suck SYK`S cawk.com(and Im not queer,so everything worked out for the best...lmao).....Ive never done anything but try and help folks and here you stomp in talkin your same ol holier than thou, I`m better than you, Ive got more money and buds than all yall bullshit................Why are you here?If youre here to help ,groovy............Ill go hang out with IS...............................PEACE..........DHF................
 

HyGradeChronic

Active member
..... BWAAAAAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!
..... wuz up DHF, how you doin'??? nice to see ya still alive n kickin'. hope it's all good for you n yours ese. u bett cha.
..... bruce, lol, floods suck don' they!!!!! g'luck...
..... peace
..... HGC
 

somoz

Active member
Veteran
thanks for the tip dhf...just took a look at the thread and it's good times....lots of good pics and info there....i hope IS comes back and finishes it up but regardless it is still a diamond in the rough..good lookin out.

somoz
 
G

Guest

So as not to degrade this thread into a buncha name-callin and havin to listen to a grown man cry,SYK ,we appreciate you tellin us about who we need to listen to since BlueHaze and Nitrous already have stopped by and said they`d help in the process.......Now HGC`S here so I`m almost positive we can make it without yas..............Youve been on vacation only to come back and find all these atrocities that have been perpetrated against you.......LMFAO..........maybe a little counselin would be in order?...................You posted a damn teaser(2-3 posts) bout luring new members to a(so-called website that MIGHT EXIST).....then you were gone..............I saw exactly what was goin on .......Evidently Bruce didnt due to his apology to you(AND NOT KNOWIN YOU ALREADY) in this forum where all He did was ask questions about a system he didnt understand.................You hung a carrot in front of him and when he didnt bite and chase it,here you come back almost a month later and try and defend yourself for bein gone and NOT answerin and helpin Bruce with his startup,and on top of it all ,you TAKE BACK your invitation to a SO-CALLED website that might still exist(true colors and all that)...............................Bruce dont kiss his ass ,He`s part of the problem witholding information that was GIVEN and not spread back thru the community..............Since OG and CW are gone SYK really needs to stand up ,be a man and offer up all that vital knowledge on the buckets so as to help the community at large ...........Enough grandstandin ...........Start a thread here SYK............ Give everything start to finish with pics and diagrams............I fuckin dare yas..................PEACE.................DHF.....................
 

BruceLeeroy

Active member
on the topic of air conditioning. this is for all those that are thinking about trying this system with 3400 watts or more of light for 4 plants. a 12000 BTU window A/C will NOT WORK well. can it be made to work? don't know i'll tell you in a bit. the problem is that in order to keep up with the heat from the lights it has to cool constantly. the problem with this is that the condensation from the humidity will build up and freeze, causing your a/c to auto shutoff to save itself. it goes like this....

the room starts at 70. a/c and lights start running. a/c stops cooling at 70 and so the heat builds up a bit to 75. then a/c comes on and starts cooling. now it's fighting to get back to it's set point while the lights are busy pushing out heat and it takes a while to do this. after three or four cycles of this with 70+ RH, the condensation starts to freeze in the coil, so the a/c auto shuts off. while the a/c is defrosting, the room temps climb to 80. now the a/c comes back on and we've lost ground. fight another cycle and next time it's 85. then 90. each time the coil freezes a bit earlier and takes a bit longer to defrost. after 12 hours with a/c and lights both going, the high temp for the period ended up being 93.4, which is just too damn high. this is without using any exhaust for the 12 hour period. i'm going to have to experiment, set the a/c higher and see if it'll work (say set to 80) and get the exhaust running at least a bit out of every hour and see if i can keep it down. it seems to run in teh 80-85 range, but at least once in 12 hours pegged up to 94 :(. i wonder if getting a thermostat for the a/c would help rather than using the one built in?

i have the a/c blowing into the top center of the room. i'm also not using any fans to move the air yet, so i think i'll add an oscilating fan on the floor and see what that does. my exhaust is set up at the top center of room so i'll start cycling that on and off too and let you all know how it turns out.

any input is always appreciated :)

next time i'll be sure and listen on the ductless split a/c. a 24000 btu would have really hit the spot lol. the 400$ price difference was prohibitive for my first run.
peace

p.s. the moral of the story is OVERBUY on the a/c, cause once you underbuy there isn't shit you can do except return the POS.
 
I will be the first to admit I don't know much about this system, but it would reason to think that an exhaust fan and maybe an intake fan (I was runnin' 8" vortek exhaust and 6" intake w/ 3k and 9kbtu A/C) would really help get you through this rough period. Depending on the location of the room, I would intake from the rest of the house and exhaust out a window or roof vent, with stink control of course.
 

BruceLeeroy

Active member
are you saying i stink?!?!?! lol j/k. yeah i'm thinking that is definitely my best bet. i also think setting the a/c for a higher temp will probably work, testing that now. i'm trying with the a/c at 80 and see what that'll do, combined with a 10 min/hour exhaust. i have the ballasts outside the room so i shouldn't be having this much trouble. i also think i have a thick enough temperature difference without oscilation that you could hide a submarine under there. the irony is that it's 7-10 degrees cooler on my ceiling where i'm aiming the a/c than at the mid level lol!

does anyone know if a 400 cfm dayton blower has enough pressure to use with a carbon scrubber? i'm needing to get another fan one way or the other, either for odor or for exhaust but i'd rather not buy TWO more fans !!! i've reworked my exhaust on the existing 400cfm blower so it only runs 10 feet total. air just trickles out with a 30-40' run lol. i'd like to if possible use the dayton with a carbon scrubber and get a higher cfm (1000ish) for exhaust but i have no experience with scrubbers and i'm not sure how much pressure one needs.

i'm also coming to realize that humidity will NOT be a problem for me. it's going to be harder to keep it down than anything else, at least till about late june. then again i'm sure a good part of that is just residual dampness in the carpet(grrrr) . i was thinking of a makeshift humidity done on each bucket for the first few weeks if i have problems with low humidity.

peace :)

if it wasn't for lessons learned the hard way, i wouldn't know anything at all!
 
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If you're lucky, your stuff will stink like a mofo. I've seen people use the dayton with a home brew 5 gal bucket carbon scrubber. Obviously, that will probably not keep the stink down in there.
 

HyGradeChronic

Active member
juSt a thought on things kool

juSt a thought on things kool

..... brucie-mon,i never had free up issues w/my a/c,12k btu running 5200w hid lights.BUT, i did/do something lil bit diff. i have kool tubes for the 1k', n ,my exhaust is IN THE CORNERS wher heat n humidity tend to gather in my particular rm. I sometimes RUN EXHAUST with a/c also. see, each rm lil diff, alla constructive input is pretty much just well intentioned, maybe well educated advice.
... each rm diff. gotta play w/it to fine tune it. trial n error.
..... a water cannon/humidifier helps bring down temps several degrees n my a/c luv it long time.
..... i only use a/c as last resort. i run chiller/cooler coils instead. but thas a whole diff crock a beans...
..... stinky rms, lol!!!!!!
..... peace
..... HGC
 
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BruceLeeroy

Active member
so i think i was having two or three problems with the a/c, both of which now seem to be under control.

1. the thing was poorly designed, when you lowered the front cover with it's little mesh filter , there was what appeared to be a temperature probe stuck in the grill where the air gets sucked in. the problem was this probe was all the way at the top of the intake, two inches below the cold air vents. cold air get's sucked into the top part of the grill due to the close proximity to the intake and was making the a/c think it was cooler than it actually was. i pulled the probe out of it's little holder and it was just long enough to place outside the case below the a/c where it gets a better reading of the room temp. since doing this it has kept the room at +/- 3 degrees F of 75 which is what i had it set for.

2. condensation freezing on the grill (heat exchanger?). i think this might be due to cold outside air temperatures. during the day with temps right about 70 outside at this time of year it doesnt freeze. at night with temps of 45-55 outside the grill gets a nice healthy frost layer on it. is this a plausible cause of frost build up? the a/c still works fine and doesnt shut down or anything from it, perhaps its normal for there to be a frost layer on the metal grill thing. as you can tell i have no a/c experience, dont even know what shit is called lol. the a/c says its outside operation temp range is 70-110

3. air movement. i put in an oscilating fan to keep the room air mixing and now all four temp probes placed throughout room in different spots read withing 2 degrees of each other.

so to sum up, one of or all three of these were my problem, and now seems to be taken care of.

peace
 

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