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HONEY OIL !DENATURED STYLE

Sam_Skunkman

"RESIN BREEDER"
Moderator
Veteran
Anyone know how much a freeze-dry unit will cost? To use on resin that is water extracted, then not dried as is done traditionally, but freeze-dried?
Anyone tried this yet?
A small lab model that holds a liter of wet resin or can hold a tray that does.
I have seen small models that only weigh 80 Lb.
http://millrocktech.com/Products/fd/bt-freeze-dryer.aspx

gordonliu,
You still think that water is used in super critical extractions as a solvent?
I thought it was liquid CO2.

-SamS
 

Sam_Skunkman

"RESIN BREEDER"
Moderator
Veteran
One problem with 190 proof is the other 10 proof is water and the water will pick up any chlorophyll and make the extracts green or black. Use less solvent time, and use the 190 proof in a dry room, it will help a little.

-SamS
 
C

Chamba

I'm not expert on alcohol extraction...but wouldn't it be best to soak the bud or leaves in water for a few days, dry (or re-dry) the plant material then do the alcohol extraction?
 

Chiefsmokingbud

Slap-A-Ho tribe
Veteran
Chamba you are describing the water cure method which was a buzz around here a couple years ago. I did the water cure and was very disappointed but yes it probably would help to reduce chlorophyl. But really, if you do a short iso wash, chloropyl won't be a problem so water curing would just be a wasted step. When i do a short was, my iso is amber and rock hard, almost as good as my bho. Most solvents disolve on contact so a short wash is desired.
 

zymos

Jammin'!
Veteran
Sam_Skunkman said:
One problem with 190 proof is the other 10 proof is water and the water will pick up any chlorophyll and make the extracts green or black. Use less solvent time, and use the 190 proof in a dry room, it will help a little.

-SamS

yeah but people are always doing it with %90 isoEtOH anyway...
 

Verite

My little pony.. my little pony
Veteran
One of the reasons is most alcohols pull out chlorophylls and other plant sugars that make longer soaked oil batches taste bad is because they are polar solvents. Polar solvents work well at pulling out water soluble items like the above. Non-polar solvents work well at pulling out oil/waxy soluble items. This is one of the reasons butane works better than iso since butane is a non-polar solvent.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solvent
 
C

Chamba

Cheif...have you done a second rinse of iso after your first quick wash?..if that 2nd run is worthwhile then perhaps you could consider using aged material that has lost it's chlorophyll or soak the material to help get rid of that green...if you get 99% of THC from the first quick run, then there's no piont

anyway...all you petro-chemical heads, improvised explosive devices makers and solvent sniffers....y'all do be careful do now.....ventilation, ventilation, ventilation!

now where's my dry sifting screens?..I'm gonna make some hash in the fashioned way..

sift, sift.....sift, sift
 

mark6699331

Active member
Yeah Gordonlui- i had access to the equip back in 88-92. We used the chemical film and got some nice shots. I was told there is actually money to be made for textbooks in taking nice photos. I'm not a big digital photo fan. Still do film rolls myself for the good shots.

m
 

gordonliu

Member
@sam_skunkman:

lyopholizers aint cheap. probably gunna run ya a couple grand. its the type of instrument that gets beat the **** out of in a lab. people be using it all the time. also the type of thing you only need to buy 1 of, and not need to buy another for 20 years.

also be careful. these mofos are dangerous if you dont know what your doing (read: liquid oxygen condensation, followed by big explosions!)


many compounds can exist in the supercritical phase. CO2 is one. H2O is another. CO2 is highly desireable because, once in a normal phase, it will completely evolve out of the dissolved analyte. it is also non-polar, and relatively unreactive (although it can be used to form carboxylates under the right conditions)

H2O as a supercritical fluid is commonly studied, but I had never heard of anyone using it in an extraction before I heard about that oil. take it with a grain of salt unless I hear anything further, but yeah, as it stands supercritical CO2 is pretty much all your gonna see, unless you study supercritical fluids.
 

Chiefsmokingbud

Slap-A-Ho tribe
Veteran
Chamba said:
Cheif...have you done a second rinse of iso after your first quick wash?..if that 2nd run is worthwhile then perhaps you could consider using aged material that has lost it's chlorophyll or soak the material to help get rid of that green...if you get 99% of THC from the first quick run, then there's no piont

anyway...all you petro-chemical heads, improvised explosive devices makers and solvent sniffers....y'all do be careful do now.....ventilation, ventilation, ventilation!

now where's my dry sifting screens?..I'm gonna make some hash in the fashioned way..

sift, sift.....sift, sift

no i haven't and here's why: I've examined dried shake after a rinse with an eue loupe just to see if any trichomes are left, but obviously there aren't any. I would bet more gets trapped in the coffee filter then being left behind on the shake.
 

FRIENDinDEED

A FRIEND WITH WEED IS A . . .
Veteran
ok i do wanna give this method a shot, once my crop gets the chop, but i was wondering about the larger fan leaves. the smaller ones are the ones that have trich's on them and the larger ones mainly dont, so is the rule of thumb to use everything or just whats trich covered.

p.s.- oh yeah and can/should you use stems aswell?
 
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kilacaLIbud

Active member
hello every one :joint:


i have done another extraction about a week ago ... with 90 grams dry shake and buds.. i yielded 14grams of premium honey oil.. amber.. ..


first wash..
Honey oil/amber .. should be thick thicker then molassis more like resin but clear yellow gold when u pull it apart like taffy... should never leave a tar like resin on fingers when touched or tapped.. sticky like a almost dry piece of gum if it leaves a tar like green resin on ur fingers then u extracted more then just the THC resin ..more then likely u let the mixture soak to long or did to many washs on the same bud/stem... should never smell like a tar substance or weird planty smell... if done right this extraction.. should only take off the HEADS OF THE TRICOMES nearly all stalks still on the bud .. which u can clearly see when u let the washed bud/trim dry a lil


second wash..
hash oil.. amber

same bud from first extraction.. this time ur taking off the stalks and the heads that were hiding in the first extraction... this wash will put some green in the oil. also will leave a distinct plant bud smell... whish some people fine better smelling.. not I. this should be darker then the first wash and leave a greenish hue when touched on ur fingers not black tho.. more like neon green


third wash..

same as seconed a lil more harsh and alot more plant smell.. i wouldnt waste my time . unless u really really like the hash oil on the second wash.. but once u taste the first wash ...."it was really worth it"


i also just found out a exciting news on denatured alcohol.. if u ever use the WHITE LADY (some call it paris hilton )! SHE TOO HAS BEEN WASHED in denatured . :rant:
 

kilacaLIbud

Active member
Sam_Skunkman said:
One problem with 190 proof is the other 10 proof is water and the water will pick up any chlorophyll and make the extracts green or black. Use less solvent time, and use the 190 proof in a dry room, it will help a little.

-SamS



i see no black or green in this






:wave:
 

gordonliu

Member
kilacaLIbud said:
i also just found out a exciting news on denatured alcohol.. if u ever use the WHITE LADY (some call it paris hilton )! SHE TOO HAS BEEN WASHED in denatured . :rant:

I wouldnt be surprised. they also use leaded gasoline to make almost all of the coca base that gets refined into cocaine HCL. denatured alcohol is the least of your concerns (lead).
 

DIGITALHIPPY

Active member
Veteran
gordonliu said:
I wouldnt be surprised. they also use leaded gasoline to make almost all of the coca base that gets refined into cocaine HCL. denatured alcohol is the least of your concerns (lead).

did not know that....i stay away from the hard stuff though :bashhead:
it kicks my @ss :spank: :spank:
keep it safe use the butane!

 

FRIENDinDEED

A FRIEND WITH WEED IS A . . .
Veteran
ok, as i have sat here and read throught this thread, i was hopoing to find out what i needed to know as far as temp of teh skillet, i went and bought everything this morning and i washed the trim i have with the denatred alcohol, and as a matter of fact its cookin right now!!!

some of it has dried and there is still a good amoutn to go, i didint have alot of trimn to work with so i bought the quart size from home depot. my trim filled a 44oz cup from a gas station mart of 7-11 type store. i washed it once and it tinted yellow, so i washed it two more times for total of three.

i didnt pay attention to the thread or the post as i was in a rush to leave work so i just skimmed over it, so i went and bought a gridle instead. i have a metal pan (9x13) but bought the same (9x13) sized pyrex bowl, so the pyrex pan is sittin half in teh water and half out, but the steam is hittinthe other non submerged side, so i guess its heating to a degree.

i turned the griddle down from 350 to 300, cause it was really boilin, ILL BE HERE WILLING TO HEAR A RESPONSE TO TEH QUESTIONS ABOUT TEH PROCESS, I DONT WANNA GET INTO THAT "WHETHER ITS SAFE OR NOT" HORSE SHIT.

THNX
 

FRIENDinDEED

A FRIEND WITH WEED IS A . . .
Veteran
so im smokin thos sour diesel that this cat gave me a nug of, small but hey its stinky and green and fluffy it seems to be teh real deal. it smokes nice enough, i didnt want to give it a chance with papers so i waited unti i got home so i could use my steamroller and my favorite lil bongas seen here


so it hits nice int the steam roller but gets harsh near the final taxing of the bowl like chem nutes and not smooth like oragnic, which is what i grew, no white ashe so it wasnt properly flushed. nice high though, gonna report back about the bong hits, that should be better,

OH BY THE BY,i shecked on the oil and its almost finished, had to open up teh garage door for a sec, it was gettin stinky inthere!!!! its raining so that should help with the smell maybe 20 or so more minutes and it should be done, i scraped some off teh bottom and it was hard, its like itwas oil on teh razor bt once cooled from teh pan it got hard.
 

Chiefsmokingbud

Slap-A-Ho tribe
Veteran
I guess you skimmed over the part where we have been saying Denatured alc has poison in it. hence the name "denatured" meaning add a poison to make it unconsumable.
 

kilacaLIbud

Active member
honey oil haters...!! stop the hate...

honey oil haters...!! stop the hate...

hello haters and non haters...


friend in deed.. when u put the pyrex on the pan.. u need a couple pencils or pens or chop sticks inbetween the glass and the metal to keep the water from boiling over and shakin the bowl... i wash the material only once barly gettin the material wet.. and takin off only the good heads in the tricombes.. if u wash the material more then once u get greenish amber ... .


i just got done with 22 lbs of trim washing this method.. and they are selling it in the despenseries as we speak..
 
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