Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[d3cryption]

Gonna run...

Bayer Advanced 3-in-1 Insect, Disease, & Mite Control

imidacloprid: 0.47%
Tau-Fluvalinate: 0.61%
Tebuconazole: 0.65%
Other Ingredients : 98.27%


13-15ml per soil drence ,
+ foliar spray w/ soap....

 

[RockyMountainHi]

It took about 10 days for the real effects of the Orthene to show, especially after I decided to reintroduce ferts.

Is that a "Awwww SHYT" after the ferts or YIPPIE! YIPPIE!

Inquiring minds want to know.

Mee 2!

 

[yerboyblue]

Is that a "Awwww SHYT" after the ferts or YIPPIE! YIPPIE!

Inquiring minds want to know.

Mee 2!

That was, "FUCK MY PLANTS ARE DEAD 5 WEEKS INTO FLOWER!"

 

[hydrodreams]

Hy

Im happy to have found this thread. Thanks for all the contributers. I think I have RA for 1.5 years already but I never minded them eventough I spotted them, because I didn't feel any decrease in yield. But the last few grows clearly had lower yields than the ones before them, so I tried to find out possible reasons, until yesterday I started to read threads here about the mosaic viruses, which have very similar effects and symptoms. But one member of this forum wrote in one of the "mosaic virus"- threads that root aphid- infections are often wrongly diagnosed as a type of a mosaic virus. Because of that I started to remember this white very small fuckers in that I often spoted in the soil but didn't mind, so I caught one of the white ones that sometimes leave the soil and crawl on the pots surface, and watched him under the microscope, did some research and found this thread, luckily. And today I caught one of the ones that can fly and compared him with the photos in the net and here in this thread. Diagnose: positive for root aphids. I am growing for 15 years and never ever heard of them and their pontential to affect the plants. And like many here, I also believed that spidermates are the ultimate hassle.

The changes of my less yielding grows where also significant lesser roots, significant thinner main trunk, shorter side- branches, slowlier growing...

I'm not really into this topic, but someone suggest me to post pictures of these root aphids, they could be useful for someone.

For what I can say, I just destroy them with bayer confidor. Sometimes they appear again, but don't cause so much troubles.

These little bastards were on the roots of two young clones in a root riot, with roots touching the water. The aphids were on the roots exposed to air, and after very short time applying confidor in the solution they were all dead.........

I also found "bayer confidor" in the net. Did your plants show any negative reaction after you used it? I ask you because this product is also oil based. And as previous growers posted here, the oil of oil based products can suffocate the plants roots...

Thanks for all the helpfull posters here sharing their findings

Hydrodreams

 

[SneakySneaky]

Look up Nuke'm by Flying Skull. My buddy is the creator and he has tested it on root aphids with 100% eradication, and it's safe to use up to the day of harvest (I called bs as well at first, but after numerous lab tests in multiple states there has yet to be any trace of it, even on stuff sprayed the day of harvest!!)

To prove that it works he's given me a 1 gallon jug to fix a med patient / friends garden that has spider mites and root aphids, both of which the Nukem will kill easily.

 

[hydrodreams]

@noreason:

Can you tell me how you exactly used the bayer ceraflor?

Did you just spray it on the leafs or did you pour in your medium?

How did you know that it worked when plants are still in the medium?

Would appreciate your answers.

Hydrodreams

 

[Granger2]

Sneaky,
Can you give any more info on Nuke'm? I read everything on their site. For RA's, how many treatments? How far apart? What concentration? 30 minute soak? Did you spray also? I could fog my room w/it, and do root soaks. Thanks for any help. -granger

 

[SneakySneaky]

Sneaky,
Can you give any more info on Nuke'm? I read everything on their site. For RA's, how many treatments? How far apart? What concentration? 30 minute soak? Did you spray also? I could fog my room w/it, and do root soaks. Thanks for any help. -granger

So far in the veg room I've done 2 treatments. I made up a 5 gallon batch and gave each plant a 20 min soak (they weren't dry and were in 3 gallon pots or beer cups). I used 2 ozs per gallon for the soak.

After 3 days I watered in another 2 ozs per gallon in the veg room as well as watering the flower room for the first time. It's been almost a week since the first application in the veg room and the plants are bouncing back nicely.

Since his veg and flower are mere feet apart I will continue to water in the Nukem in the veg room till the flower plants are cured as well.

As for how long this will take I honestly don't know, the key to victory is to break their life cycle. I'm estimating 2 weeks of treatment will suffice. Which will be about 7 waterings at 3 day intervals. Once the plants in flower are done and the clean veg plants replace them I'm certain this will end their cycle.

For a spray I'm using it at 2ozs per gallon for 1st spray and 3 ozs on 2nd and subsequent sprays.

Getting good results so far!

 

[Devilman]

Maybe I have these little buggers too

Maybe I have these little buggers too

Hey all, I've been following this thread for quite a while now, cus these little buggers seem quite the pest, luckily, I have'nt had them... or so I think?

For the last couple of grows (Only done 3 lol) I have noticed the plants often start to show signs of an MG def, or similar, with the tell-tale pale perimeter of the leaf edge etc.. along with the "spotting" that occurs on some fans, which then dry up, curl up and drop off.

I had tried more nutes, less nutes, more humidity, less, re-PHing (and re-calibrating PH pen a few times) and nothing really seems to help. I have had bugs in the water after feeding for quite a while, but was pretty sure they were just fungal gnats and maybe a few springtails (some of them jump like crazy on the surface of the water when you disturb it)

However couple days ago found a ton of bugs on an old bucket in a cupboard (tho not on the plants, at least so as far as I can see), they may just be dust-mites from the old cupboard, but not sure. Rather than spam this thread with pics of those, I will just link to the thread I made and hopefully someone can confirm what they are. https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=255019 is the thread.

I will just tag a couple of pics on here though, showing the "spotting" Im getting on leaves, and the "phantom mg def", perhaps someone can tell me if this is classic RA symptoms?

 

[Hookjaw]

I'm really interested in this Nuke em product. The only real info I'm finding is from their website. Testimonials sound convincing but it would be great to find some success stories for root aphid control outside of from the manufacture itself. Even this one account is from a friend of the supplier. It sounds all around too good to be true, but I'd love to be convinced otherwise if it's half as good as Flying Skull claims in erraticating RAs. I may well take the plunge and try it out but at the application rated recommended by the mfg (which is double the strength in the previous post) it will cost me a small fortune to do a series of drenches and sprays to run it properly.
I am clearly dealing with a tough army of RAs. I've run Bayer T&S, Merit, orthene, constant mega applications of Cap spores, movento regiments.

 

[BadMojo]

I use Neem or Neem cake at times. Then I put a layer of fine mesh river sand as topping on the pots. They have a lot of trouble reinfesting through a layer of sand because the sand dries out rapidly but the soil below it stays moist. The Gnats need soil that is constantly moist to allow there larvae to hatch and survive. One reason I use deep pots is that the Upper layer can dry out but the bottom stays moist but well drained.

 

[RockyMountainHi]

Nuke-Em is yeast.

Might be a "special strain", but it's really expensive yeast.

Maybe that's what makes it "special".

I'm not findiing anything in the agriculture sites that says yeast can control R/A's

Not wanting to pee in the punch bowl, in fact I'm rootin for ya.
But damn there's a lot of "expensive snake-oil" salesmen out there.
I don't mind so much if it works, lol

 

[ballplayer 2]

Seriously?!?! Yeast. I was thinking about trying Nuke Em. Glad I did not place my order yet, unless it works. Any third party reports showing it effectivess or ineffectiveness?

As most would guess, I have a confirmed Root Aphid infest, likely a severe infest. Plus given the circumstances, eradication of this pest for me is unlikely. I am hoping for enough control to achieve decent results. I plan on using Imid, Met-52 Granular...and possibly liquid, Cap's packs, and possibly spectracide and Azatrol.

Unfortunately this round I decided to use no prevention,pretty f'n stupid on my part. I thought a thorough cleaning job AND waiting 15 MONTHS would be enough to be rid of this f'n demon spawn.

I've been battling twisted leaves, phantom toxicity and deficiency, and oddities where 1 or 2 blades on a 5 or 7 blade leaf twist or shrivel. Their presence is confirmed by dead flyers around my tent, and ones attepting to get into the passive intakes of my tent after applications of caps packs to all areas. These are definitely not gnats...these do not hover and their wings are bigger/longer than their body...as well as different shaped than gnats.

I believe I got them from a certain boutique soil...thanx a lot really. Thought I forgot how to grow for the last 3-4 years. Always start from seed, so cut swapping is not responsible. All my plants that I try and flower hermie, ...that is males will also show female traits and vice versa. As fate would have it, I have both a sump pit; and waste ejector pit somewhat nearby where I believe these fuckers have been hanging out waiting to reinfect, because I would spot the odd flier (which I had mistaken for a gnat) in a nearby bathroom sink or shower once in a great while. So time for yet another tear down and restart with proper precautions. These things have cost me about 4 years. However, I was never certain I had them until now. I would either have no fliers, or only a random one or two. Always thought it was offgassing, deficiency, overfert,or toxicity. Now the flier leave no doubt what I am dealing with.

As an aside, I have successfully grown both tomatoes and peppers during this time in the same areas, with either minor or NO effects to the crops. Shame these damn things seem to be so damaging to canna.

 

[Neo 420]

As an aside, I have successfully grown both tomatoes and peppers during this time in the same areas, with either minor or NO effects to the crops. Shame these damn things seem to be so damaging to canna.

What was the nutes you used with the tomatoes and peppers?

 

[ballplayer 2]

Pure Blend Pro, same as I was trying now.

 

[mrxx]

I've been battling twisted leaves, phantom toxicity and deficiency, and oddities where 1 or 2 blades on a 5 or 7 blade leaf twist or shrivel. Their presence is confirmed by dead flyers around my tent, and ones attepting to get into the passive intakes of my tent after applications of caps packs to all areas. These are definitely not gnats...these do not hover and their wings are bigger/longer than their body...as well as different shaped than gnats.

I believe I got them from a certain boutique soil...thanx a lot really. Thought I forgot how to grow for the last 3-4 years. Always start from seed, so cut swapping is not responsible. All my plants that I try and flower hermie, ...that is males will also show female traits and vice versa. As fate would have it, I have both a sump pit; and waste ejector pit somewhat nearby where I believe these fuckers have been hanging out waiting to reinfect, because I would spot the odd flier (which I had mistaken for a gnat) in a nearby bathroom sink or shower once in a great while. So time for yet another tear down and restart with proper precautions. These things have cost me about 4 years. However, I was never certain I had them until now. I would either have no fliers, or only a random one or two. Always thought it was offgassing, deficiency, overfert,or toxicity. Now the flier leave no doubt what I am dealing with.

As an aside, I have successfully grown both tomatoes and peppers during this time in the same areas, with either minor or NO effects to the crops. Shame these damn things seem to be so damaging to canna.

Did u catch one R A ? How many legs do they have?
The symptoms sounds like gnat infestiations. Gnats have 6 legs R A has 6

 

[mrxx]

Sorry gnats has 6 legs and R A has 8

 

[Granger2]

Uhhh...no. Both are insects so they have 6 legs. Mites and other arachnids have 8. -granger

 

[BadMojo]

Careful using Imidacloprid! That stuff is systemic which means it is in the plant tissues for the long term... As in you will be smoking a LOW LEVEL NERVE AGENT (when used on mammals) that will be inhaled while you smoke your herb...

Mmmmm mmmmm finger licking good... You lungs will love you for it...

Wiki actually has it right for a change. Imidacloprid is a systemic insecticide which acts as an insect neurotoxin and belongs to a class of chemicals called the neonicotinoids which act on the central nervous system of insects with much lower toxicity to mammals.

As a systemic pesticide, imidacloprid translocates or moves easily in the xylem of plants from the soil into the leaves, fruit, pollen, and nectar of a plant. Imidacloprid also exhibits excellent translaminar movement in plants and can penetrate the leaf cuticle and move readily into leaf tissue

 

[ballplayer 2]

mrxx I have had a gnat infestation before, I applied Gnatrol twice and they all died inside of a week. The bugs I have now look nothing like a mosquito,and do not behave like gnats at all. I am certain these are root aphids.

I will be applying Bayer Fruit and Citrus in early veg. I figure I'll give about 75 days pre-harvest interval.