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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

NogIn

New member
I have had them recently, whether they are called winged root aphids or fungas gnats I don't know, but the symptoms of how they affected the plants are as described.
I tried spraying the top of the soil and leaves with an aerosol spray containing Imid but that didn't work. Then I tried a mister bottle but that didn/t work.
Then I got one of the mister bottles, I think the brand name was confidor but the active ingredient is Imidacloprid, and took the top off and poured it into a container and mixed in about half water and then watered the plants with it.
Took two waterings a few days apart but it got rid of them for good.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
> but it got rid of them for good.

nogin,
I hope you're right, but I wouldn't count on it. Vigilance. Good luck. -granger
 

NogIn

New member
Well I'm on my third grow of C-Plus and still haven't seen what this plant is capable of, because of those little suckers. The current is the best so far but still has some damage from before I ( hopefully) eradicated them.
 

noreason

Natural born Grower
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I'm not really into this topic, but someone suggest me to post pictures of these root aphids, they could be useful for someone.

For what I can say, I just destroy them with bayer confidor. Sometimes they appear again, but don't cause so much troubles.

These little bastards were on the roots of two young clones in a root riot, with roots touching the water. The aphids were on the roots exposed to air, and after very short time applying confidor in the solution they were all dead.

I have a couple of video too, if interest I could try to upload.


picture.php


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All pictures here
 

medicalmj

Active member
Veteran
im on day 16 of flower. can i use merit75? i thought it took 60 days for it merit to be gone?

Some neonicitinoids say 30 days some (like Merit75) say more. It could be the concentration. Merit 75 is heavy duty at 75%. My 22% says 30 days...
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
im on day 16 of flower. can i use merit75? i thought it took 60 days for it merit to be gone?

No! I wouldn't. Merit 75 is overkill in the first place.
Not necessary, and definitely not 16 days into flower. Botaniguard ES is what I would recommend in flower. In regard to veg, Bayer Advanced is fine and it is less than 2% imidcloprid. Merit 75 lingers too long, and I would not use it at all, since much lower concentrations of Imid are effective.
 

d3cryption

Active member
Veteran
does everyone just see them in the roots? i find the adults under my leaves...... they seem to love my jackberry plant. ants were hanging around alot getting the sap the aphids left behind. im still in veg so hopefully i can controll them. i cant afford to throw away 2 ft bushes.

any advice?

bayer 3-1 insect.disease.mite
or
bayer t/s
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
d3cryption,
Aphids on the foliage w/ants attracted to the honeydew the aphids secrete are not the same as Root Aphids. Are you seeing them on the roots? If so, you've got 2 problems.

Foliage aphids are a piece of cake to eradicate. Azadiractin, Soap, and other low toxicity products will do the job handily. You'll need to do follow up sprays. Lady Bugs will do a bang up job.

If you also have root aphids, read previous messages and take your pick. Good luck. -granger
 

d3cryption

Active member
Veteran
d3cryption,
Aphids on the foliage w/ants attracted to the honeydew the aphids secrete are not the same as Root Aphids. Are you seeing them on the roots? If so, you've got 2 problems.

Foliage aphids are a piece of cake to eradicate. Azadiractin, Soap, and other low toxicity products will do the job handily. You'll need to do follow up sprays. Lady Bugs will do a bang up job.

If you also have root aphids, read previous messages and take your pick. Good luck. -granger


Yeah.... I have them under the foliage..... the adults are black with the dual pipes, and the babies are like white'ish tan'ish ( both under leaves).... They really fucking with one of my jackberry plants..........

I"m pretty sure I have Root Aphids too... I see the white ones running around the coco... and see a flier here and there....

will imid take care of both?

for some 1.47 imid for a descent price i plan on picking up......... it would be lovely if a soil drench will take care of all....... I'm still in veg, so i have no problem spraying................

but as i said i do see the tiny white one running around.... I can't fully check the roots since i'm in smartpots...... but they're there..... also what are the chances of having both..? . do the foliage aphids turn into fliers?

do they both do the same damage......? any advice? what kind os soap are we taking about? will regular dish soap work?
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
d3cryption,
Aphids on the foliage w/ants attracted to the honeydew the aphids secrete are not the same as Root Aphids. Are you seeing them on the roots? If so, you've got 2 problems.

Foliage aphids are a piece of cake to eradicate. Azadiractin, Soap, and other low toxicity products will do the job handily. You'll need to do follow up sprays. Lady Bugs will do a bang up job.

If you also have root aphids, read previous messages and take your pick. Good luck. -granger

Actually, Root Aphids also have a symbiotic relationship with ants, as they also secrete a "honey" which the ants eat.
 

yerboyblue

Member
Yeah.... I have them under the foliage..... the adults are black with the dual pipes, and the babies are like white'ish tan'ish ( both under leaves).... They really fucking with one of my jackberry plants..........

I"m pretty sure I have Root Aphids too... I see the white ones running around the coco... and see a flier here and there....

will imid take care of both?

for some 1.47 imid for a descent price i plan on picking up......... it would be lovely if a soil drench will take care of all....... I'm still in veg, so i have no problem spraying................

but as i said i do see the tiny white one running around.... I can't fully check the roots since i'm in smartpots...... but they're there..... also what are the chances of having both..? . do the foliage aphids turn into fliers?

do they both do the same damage......? any advice? what kind os soap are we taking about? will regular dish soap work?

My first run that had noticable root aphids, had them on the foliage. One plant in the room basically stopped growing/maturing week six or so of flower. The adult, mature black RA's, as well as the immature white ones crawled up the stems and got stuck on the buds. They weren't moving or sucking anything, they just got stuck. I suspect there was such a large population, they were also trying to crawl to other plants, or catch a ride on the wind, besides just growing wings and migrating.

Large populations of RA's can definitely manifest on the foliage. I would spray with some Dr Doom knock off if you aren't in mid to late flower, or bomb the room. But honestly, if you don't address the soil, you will see them back on foliage sooner than later.
 

yerboyblue

Member
And Decryption, whatever you decide to use in the soil, soak those plants, container and all, a couple inches up the stem, so they can't run away. If you use chem insecticides, look into adding a pyrethrum/pbo product to the mix as well, it shouldn't react with most chem insecticides. Do all plants and trays in one day in the dunk, no breaks. Separate fresh dunked ones in a quarantine room, if you can have lights in that quarantine room and give your other room a break for a couple days while you spray, clean, and so on, all the better.

Be sure to get the fudgers off the foliage though before you go and do all this. Get some tanglefoot around the base so they can't just run up again. Also, if you don't want to do the Knock Off spray (and even if you do) I would get some Hot Shot No Pest strips and put those in your room for a few days, people swear by them for spidermites. I think they would work for RA's above soil, or at least drive them back in. I use them to prevent fliers, so far so good. And yes, they are pretty toxic to humans, but I am skeptical that they really leave that much residue on plant tissue, especially if you remove them several weeks before harvest. Others will agree and disagree.
 

yerboyblue

Member
thanks for the advice. did u notice a increase in yield after u treated?

I've been treating in veg as a preventative now with Met52, and a Botaniguard and Riptide (Pyreth/PBO) dunk, as well as No Pest Strips. I don't see anything crawling when I transplant, so I think I have them licked. Fingers crossed.

I never really got to try that dunk technique in flower since my plants were trellised and in 15 gallon pots. I fried plants by using Acephate (Orthene) in flower, it was devastating. I just really decided to restart from clones once my flower rooms were down and take a little step back and get my head back in the game.
 

yerboyblue

Member
And the fun thing with the Acephate was that at the app rate described in earlier posts, my test plants looked fine after applying it and waiting a few days, so I did the WHOLE shebang. It took about 10 days for the real effects of the Orthene to show, especially after I decided to reintroduce ferts.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Retro and Yerboy,
I have not noticed root aphids on the foliage, but now that you mention your experience, I realize that I've never looked for them. I will start. You CAN teach an old dog new tricks. Now I wonder if I can possibly look forward to completely eradicating them by treating the foliage also. If so, this would save me good money, a lot of labor, worry, and frustration. Complete eradication is something I had given up on.

I am enlightened. Thank you. I have had no ants in my room. Good luck. -granger
 

audiohi

Well-known member
Veteran
41MP7aj6yyL.jpg


+1 for Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer

$13 for a very large bottle

In veg only
15 ml per gallon and submerge all pots in the solution

Works great and fast!

Great thread! Thank you!

:woohoo:
 

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