M
milehighmedical
.
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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???
- Thread starter spleebale
- Start date
I picked up this stuff last night:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=15595
https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=15595&pictureid=316867
It has half the Imidacloprid as Tree & shrub, but more than citrus, without nutes. Says it lasts for 3 months, as opposed to one year with the "Tree & Shrub". I doused all my plants with it to runoff, and It seems to be killin' stuff. It says takes 24 hours to be completely effective. If this saves my mothers, I'll be a happy camper.
Oh yeah, picked it up in Home Depot.
Great thread. These bastards are hard to see. You gotta have magnification. I doused some with pyrethrins, and they just shrugged it off.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=15595
https://www.icmag.com/ic/album.php?albumid=15595&pictureid=316867
It has half the Imidacloprid as Tree & shrub, but more than citrus, without nutes. Says it lasts for 3 months, as opposed to one year with the "Tree & Shrub". I doused all my plants with it to runoff, and It seems to be killin' stuff. It says takes 24 hours to be completely effective. If this saves my mothers, I'll be a happy camper.
Oh yeah, picked it up in Home Depot.
Great thread. These bastards are hard to see. You gotta have magnification. I doused some with pyrethrins, and they just shrugged it off.
Damn, man that sucks! I'm sorry.
Have you at least noticed some improvement in growth or are there still enough aphids around to fuck shit up?
You are going to apply Imid to your flowing plants? Ah! Poison! lol Have you researched Pyrethrins?
Pyrethrines do nothing to these. They do the backstroke and come right out, unaffected at all.
Has to be Imidacloprid.
That's the only thing that works on these.
Knocks them right out.
Doused them last night, and not a one left alive.
Plants already showing signs of improvement.
Has to be Imidacloprid.
That's the only thing that works on these.
Knocks them right out.
Doused them last night, and not a one left alive.
Plants already showing signs of improvement.
M
milehighmedical
.
Perhaps, the company rep told me not to use anything mixed with it.
M
milehighmedical
.
Yea if it didn't work before, I doubt another application without the other additives is going to be a hell of a lot more effective. I'm sorry I recommended that stuff, man. I guess the Imid is the only way to go in soil.
Fat J
Member
Mile-> If you have at least 50 days to harvest, trust me, dont waste your time with that s.cide, just go with the imid once and be done with em, 45 days is safe for salad greens, trust me the amount will be so very very trace after 50 days u will have no idea it was treated... also the spectracide though it doesnt work systemically, will still end up in the plants... it just wont help with the bugs. and make sure you're not overwatering after the application.
PH down is good - balance ur water, just dont give any nutes with the treatment.
PH down is good - balance ur water, just dont give any nutes with the treatment.
M
milehighmedical
.
Thank you everyone who has posted!
Please note that I have made MAJOR revisions to the initial post on this thread as of 3/6/10, including addition of a lot of new information.
I have put a lot of effort into compiling all of this info to help the community, and I ask if you could please return me the favor of your help:
I need you to post all the info you can on either root aphids, phantom magnesium deficiency, or both. All the circumstances of your grow (including region if you will), what medium you do, whether you do any sprays also. Many people are also having these problems but they do not seem to be directly tied to root aphid population levels - in fact, some people with bad infestations do not experience them at all! We need to get to the bottom of this collectively! Please help!
Additionally, we have the goal of identifying and discriminating each of the types of aphids (that we may understand what is unique about each)
Please contribute to the thread if you have ANY information that is useful for these purposes and please tell us as much info as you can.
For general discussion, problems, questions etc (to get group support about your aphid problem) please visit:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=70503
(As this was the original root-aphid forum with the most momentum)
Please use this thread to post information about your phantom mag def issues, photos of aphids, phantom mag def symptoms with aphids, and to share as much information as you can about your grow circumstances if you have either of these issues.
Thanks!
-WB
Please note that I have made MAJOR revisions to the initial post on this thread as of 3/6/10, including addition of a lot of new information.
I have put a lot of effort into compiling all of this info to help the community, and I ask if you could please return me the favor of your help:
I need you to post all the info you can on either root aphids, phantom magnesium deficiency, or both. All the circumstances of your grow (including region if you will), what medium you do, whether you do any sprays also. Many people are also having these problems but they do not seem to be directly tied to root aphid population levels - in fact, some people with bad infestations do not experience them at all! We need to get to the bottom of this collectively! Please help!
Additionally, we have the goal of identifying and discriminating each of the types of aphids (that we may understand what is unique about each)
Please contribute to the thread if you have ANY information that is useful for these purposes and please tell us as much info as you can.
For general discussion, problems, questions etc (to get group support about your aphid problem) please visit:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=70503
(As this was the original root-aphid forum with the most momentum)
Please use this thread to post information about your phantom mag def issues, photos of aphids, phantom mag def symptoms with aphids, and to share as much information as you can about your grow circumstances if you have either of these issues.
Thanks!
-WB
OKay, I have seen stuff fly around when i open my clone trays or move a plant container.
I have also seen something crawling in my soil before.
I havent been able to capture or identify what it is.
I have serious leaf death, yellowing when it shouldnt be and what looks like cal mag Def.
My yields have dropped signifcantly by more then 1/4 over all.
I have some Gnatrol, but its a small container, hope its enough.
I was going to buy some hotshots and yellow sticky traps.
and start applying my Gnatrol. ( maybe sulphur burner too i have one, or is that an overkill?)
Now i just need to order pyreth-it ??
Is this the stuff i need to buy, Pyreth-It Formula 2 - Pt. - broad spectrum insecticide
http://www.amazon.com/Pyreth-Formul...2?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1267971043&sr=8-2
Will this be enough or is this all the wrong stuff ?
EDIT::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Okay after reading through the pages a bit more i see people saying to use Bayer Complete Insect Killer , found at local hardware stores.
Here is my plan, Soak with Bayer Complete Insect Killer , sticky traps everywhere, Hot shots on every table.
Then just repeat the bayer treatments weekly.
Question
Will running sulfur burner every other day 2 hours create any cross contamination with the bayer and maybe cause a reaction?
I have also seen something crawling in my soil before.
I havent been able to capture or identify what it is.
I have serious leaf death, yellowing when it shouldnt be and what looks like cal mag Def.
My yields have dropped signifcantly by more then 1/4 over all.
I have some Gnatrol, but its a small container, hope its enough.
I was going to buy some hotshots and yellow sticky traps.
and start applying my Gnatrol. ( maybe sulphur burner too i have one, or is that an overkill?)
Now i just need to order pyreth-it ??
Is this the stuff i need to buy, Pyreth-It Formula 2 - Pt. - broad spectrum insecticide
http://www.amazon.com/Pyreth-Formul...2?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1267971043&sr=8-2
Will this be enough or is this all the wrong stuff ?
EDIT::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
Okay after reading through the pages a bit more i see people saying to use Bayer Complete Insect Killer , found at local hardware stores.
Here is my plan, Soak with Bayer Complete Insect Killer , sticky traps everywhere, Hot shots on every table.
Then just repeat the bayer treatments weekly.
Question
Will running sulfur burner every other day 2 hours create any cross contamination with the bayer and maybe cause a reaction?
SickBoyZap
Member
@Centrum #153
The 1/4 loss of yeid is EXACTLY what I experienced for the first 6 months before I discovered that these were Root Aphids and not Fungus Gnats. I can't tell from your profile what type of system you use. I EB/FLOW with only hydroton and nothing else. No coco, no NADA.
So when I Eb/Flow the bastards would wash out onto my white Botanicare 4x4s. If you see small dark aphid looking bastards slowly crawling around you have what I had. You will begin seeing floating colonies that ultimately go swirling down your drain.
As Spleebale so thoroughly described, there are different types here.
Mine were Aphid shaped and look like they had almost drowned as they slowly crawled around the table after flooding. These looked just like a typical pear shaped Aphid you would see on a rose bush with two dramatic differences... they are dark brown and about three times the size of your typical rosebush Aphid.
They are delicate with feeble looking thin legs, and, with a scope, you can see what look like two twin exhaust pipes coming out the top of their backsides.
If you have these bastards DON"T FUQQ AROUND!
Go straight to IMID! I wasted about 8 mos of my life in a hell that I don't wish on my enemies! You only apply it once since it is a systemic, and is spreads into all new growth. I don't apply Imid after 5-6 weeks before harvest. It's been used in the Tobacco Industry and in all agriculture since the 60's
As I said on a previous post, I truly believe that ALL OTHER PESTICIDES, WE TYPICALLY USE, ONLY MAKES THEM COME BACK STRONGER!
I used Imid one time and have never seen another living thing, other then my innocuous little springtail friends.
You also can have Fungus Gnats as well because they are also opportunistic and take advantage of the carnage that has become your root zone.
Imid destoyed everything. The fungus Gnats have a 28 day life cycle and I saw them flying around for about 4 days then they fuqqin went to HELL ! WHERE APHIDS AND GNATS BELONG!!! (how do I really feel, huh...)
The 1/4 loss of yeid is EXACTLY what I experienced for the first 6 months before I discovered that these were Root Aphids and not Fungus Gnats. I can't tell from your profile what type of system you use. I EB/FLOW with only hydroton and nothing else. No coco, no NADA.
So when I Eb/Flow the bastards would wash out onto my white Botanicare 4x4s. If you see small dark aphid looking bastards slowly crawling around you have what I had. You will begin seeing floating colonies that ultimately go swirling down your drain.
As Spleebale so thoroughly described, there are different types here.
Mine were Aphid shaped and look like they had almost drowned as they slowly crawled around the table after flooding. These looked just like a typical pear shaped Aphid you would see on a rose bush with two dramatic differences... they are dark brown and about three times the size of your typical rosebush Aphid.
They are delicate with feeble looking thin legs, and, with a scope, you can see what look like two twin exhaust pipes coming out the top of their backsides.
If you have these bastards DON"T FUQQ AROUND!
Go straight to IMID! I wasted about 8 mos of my life in a hell that I don't wish on my enemies! You only apply it once since it is a systemic, and is spreads into all new growth. I don't apply Imid after 5-6 weeks before harvest. It's been used in the Tobacco Industry and in all agriculture since the 60's
As I said on a previous post, I truly believe that ALL OTHER PESTICIDES, WE TYPICALLY USE, ONLY MAKES THEM COME BACK STRONGER!
I used Imid one time and have never seen another living thing, other then my innocuous little springtail friends.
You also can have Fungus Gnats as well because they are also opportunistic and take advantage of the carnage that has become your root zone.
Imid destoyed everything. The fungus Gnats have a 28 day life cycle and I saw them flying around for about 4 days then they fuqqin went to HELL ! WHERE APHIDS AND GNATS BELONG!!! (how do I really feel, huh...)
Last edited:
from original post said:
Answer to both is NO.
I prefer this or the "citrus" variety, as they don't last as long in the plant as the "Tree & Shrub" variety.
Last edited:
We just spent like two weeks figuring that out, lol (except I would add: predatory nematodes, neem oil, fungi, kill-on-contact pesticides, Spinosad, pyrethrins to the "dont waste your time" list).
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My cut collection in rotation on 8 beds - hydro ebb/flow 2kW - europe
- Latest: MROrganicGreenz
Latest posts
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My cut collection in rotation on 8 beds - hydro ebb/flow 2kW - europe
- Latest: MROrganicGreenz
