Tactical Farmer
Member
Depends on alot of factors - once it smells fowl it has turned bad.
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Earth Juice Users
- Thread starter Tactical Farmer
- Start date
Depends on alot of factors - once it smells fowl it has turned bad.
Tactical Farmer
Member
Is that amount per gal of water wood ?
If it is thats a pretty large blast of food for a single feeding on a average sized indoor plant.
If you bubble it for roughly 2 days with some microbs the PH will go up.
Tactical Farmer
Member
I don't adjust PH in the normal way - I like to control PH by the timing of the teas.
One day (acidic low) or Two day (middle range) or Three day bubble (alkaline high).
If my PH runoff is high then I only bubble teas for 1 day as they will be acidic.
How acidic - I dont know or check ?
But it is low & will bring medium down over time.
If the runoff PH is good then a 2 day bubble is good.
If the runoff PH is low then a 3 day bubble is the ticket as the tea will be in the 7's.
I never check teas PH just runoff maybe every 2 weeks.
Dorje113
Member
As long as your soil has some lime or other pH buffer this is the way to go, IMO. Some guys that used to do hydro used pH up to 6.5 and the soil pH went over 7 eventually, too much alkalinity with lime and pH up....
FinestKind
Member
I find it depends on the amount of the aeration... the more air, the shorter the amount of time it will last. I've actually had it go bad in as little as 3 days, or last as long as a week.... those microbes can ruin the stuff pretty quick, and like Tac says, you'll know when it's turned- the shit is rank!
FK
FinestKind
Member
My pH often starts out as low as 3.4, never higher than 3.7. So yeah, it's normal. It goes up pretty quickly with bubbling, though- keep an eye on it, the pH can shoot up after not seeming to do much. That's if you still care about pH, which most organic growers have just about given up on completely, it seems.
FK
M
milehighmedical
.
Tactical Farmer
Member
That's if you still care about pH, which most organic growers have just about given up on completely, it seems.
FK
Sorry bro pulled some pics from your album to help prove my point.
I got 4 new strains from seed going now, there all on the same feeding plan ive been rambling about, pure ecto fungus teas - no lime - ph/ec control.
Im alone on a different planet it seems & I know talk is talk & album pics tell the true tale
The 1 Satori & 1 Cheese are putting out 3 branch nodes (Trifoliates)
Bit of yellow from the flash but there they are just some plants, lights, fan, compost in a back room. Aint got no fresh air system now, no co2, no climate control.
The minor purple stem steaks are from the temps dropping during the 20-4 nap - should put a heater on a timer back there but im liking the $40 month electric bill.
FinestKind
Member
Had to use the worst of the worse, huh? Nice plants you got going there, incredibly healthy, something to aspire to. I'd give it a thumbs up if you hadn't used my plants as an example!!
FK
Nice plants you got going there, incredibly healthy, something to aspire to. I'd give it a thumbs up if you hadn't used my plants as an example!! FK
Conchstoner
Member
I've tried your method and found it didn't really make a difference in my case. I'm not saying it doesn't work for you it just didn't seem to make a difference for me. I guess everyone that uses Earth Juice should try both ways and see if one works better than the other.
M
milehighmedical
.
Wooderson
Member
Yes that is for 1 gallon. If that seems to strong what do think a better grow and bloom mix per gallon would be? What is a good feeding Schedule for the Earth Juice?
Tactical Farmer
Member
FK - It was a pretty heavy response to your PH comment & you handled it well, much respect for you bro.
Im not on here to brag or sound like an ego know it all - Just wanting to give back & bring out new ideas.
There are very few norms im following, will try to do a report on this current project.
WOOD: what do think a better grow and bloom mix per gallon would be?
Im no help on schedules, my methods are the total opposite.
Hows the plant look ?
How strong / rich is the soil ?
* Had to take down my flag - things are bad, not very low pro.
Im not on here to brag or sound like an ego know it all - Just wanting to give back & bring out new ideas.
There are very few norms im following, will try to do a report on this current project.
WOOD: what do think a better grow and bloom mix per gallon would be?
Im no help on schedules, my methods are the total opposite.
Hows the plant look ?
How strong / rich is the soil ?
* Had to take down my flag - things are bad, not very low pro.
Conchstoner
Member
If I aerate it I do get a higher Ph over time. What I'm saying is my plants do just as well without aerating the mix. I just mix and feed.
FinestKind
Member
I have a question: is aerating, then, only about pH? I thought 1/2 the reason we aerated our teas was to introduce the microbes into the mix... thoughts? Comments?
FK
FK
Tactical Farmer
Member
FK - Im all about bubbling teas, mostly to multiply soil beneficials & speed up nute availability for quicker absorption.
I dont do anything much during veg but during flower nearly all waterings are fungus tea feedings with 2 - 3 day bubble time.
The teas pretty much get sucked up in a few days just in time for the next mild feeding.
The option to adjust the soils PH based off how long teas are bubbled is a tool for working different PH ranges & no additional adjuster additives are needed.
Maintaining a general EC runoff thats not overly high / rich makes them more aggressive at taking nutes in & up it seems.
I dont do anything much during veg but during flower nearly all waterings are fungus tea feedings with 2 - 3 day bubble time.
The teas pretty much get sucked up in a few days just in time for the next mild feeding.
The option to adjust the soils PH based off how long teas are bubbled is a tool for working different PH ranges & no additional adjuster additives are needed.
Maintaining a general EC runoff thats not overly high / rich makes them more aggressive at taking nutes in & up it seems.
FinestKind
Member
OK, reality check here: people over the last couple of days have been telling me to get an EC/ppm meter...
I was under the impression that they were ineffective for organics because of the lack of salts in the nutrients or some such thing. But Tac just mentioned it, too...
What gives? Say the word and I'll run out and get one tomorrow! (Well Friday actually... busy tomorrow)
P.S.- Tac, you may go into this somewhere else in this thread, but what do you mean by "fungus tea"? Mycorrizae? Sorry if it is a redundant question... I have terrible internet service and limited patience for the search function on this site.
FK
I was under the impression that they were ineffective for organics because of the lack of salts in the nutrients or some such thing. But Tac just mentioned it, too...
What gives? Say the word and I'll run out and get one tomorrow! (Well Friday actually... busy tomorrow)
P.S.- Tac, you may go into this somewhere else in this thread, but what do you mean by "fungus tea"? Mycorrizae? Sorry if it is a redundant question... I have terrible internet service and limited patience for the search function on this site.
FK
Tactical Farmer
Member
What gives ? = The majority of growers say PH & Organics is (well you know what they say).
Bring up EC, you get laughed at like you got a dildo for a nose. Which is fine, its there loss in my opinion.
My grows have been on auto pilot now that ive cracked the code in my garden.
There are the 2 main (good guys) bacteria & fungi. Myco fungi has 3 but 2 main types.
Endo & Ecto, know how you read that bubbling myco in teas is a waste of time as it needs live roots to grow & you need to apply the product to the roots at transplants.
What ive been doing is focusing just on the red headed step child = Ecto.
Its just mushroom type fungus colonies that you can bubble & or culture for Extreme populations of this helper.
When I use the culture mix in a tea with some molasses & some grain powder there is no need for a microscope to see whats going on activity wise, the entire volume is full of visible networks.
There are even caps forming in the tea during the bubble.
Im not implying bacterias & endo-myco aren't awesome - its just this stuff seems to get the job done by itself.
There is quite a bit of info on the thread back around page 11 & this thread.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=179374&highlight=fast+fungi
The Bluelab ec wand stick is my battle tool.
Bring up EC, you get laughed at like you got a dildo for a nose. Which is fine, its there loss in my opinion.
My grows have been on auto pilot now that ive cracked the code in my garden.
There are the 2 main (good guys) bacteria & fungi. Myco fungi has 3 but 2 main types.
Endo & Ecto, know how you read that bubbling myco in teas is a waste of time as it needs live roots to grow & you need to apply the product to the roots at transplants.
What ive been doing is focusing just on the red headed step child = Ecto.
Its just mushroom type fungus colonies that you can bubble & or culture for Extreme populations of this helper.
When I use the culture mix in a tea with some molasses & some grain powder there is no need for a microscope to see whats going on activity wise, the entire volume is full of visible networks.
There are even caps forming in the tea during the bubble.
Im not implying bacterias & endo-myco aren't awesome - its just this stuff seems to get the job done by itself.
There is quite a bit of info on the thread back around page 11 & this thread.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=179374&highlight=fast+fungi
The Bluelab ec wand stick is my battle tool.
FinestKind
Member
Okay, that kicks ass... I'd love to pick your brain on the specifics, but maybe I'll PM you in order to not overrun the thread....
I have another basic question here, and it's one which I know should be resolved by now, but maybe my understanding is wrong:
What pH are you shooting for, in a peat-moss based media using EJ? I'd always thought 5.5-6.5 was the goal, and I usually hit around 6.3, but I've been growing some LUI13 from Dutchgrown, and DG herself is telling me that my pH is too low... one person is saying it should be at 6.8, which seems ridiculous. Oh, and I'm talking about the pH of the runoff, not of the tea itself.
You can check out my journal posted below for pics if it helps (not all of them are as ugly as the ones that Tac posted the other day... some, but not all)...
FK
P.S.- I've got an EC stick on my list for pickup on Friday- then you'll just have to teach me how to use the damn thing.
I have another basic question here, and it's one which I know should be resolved by now, but maybe my understanding is wrong:
What pH are you shooting for, in a peat-moss based media using EJ? I'd always thought 5.5-6.5 was the goal, and I usually hit around 6.3, but I've been growing some LUI13 from Dutchgrown, and DG herself is telling me that my pH is too low... one person is saying it should be at 6.8, which seems ridiculous. Oh, and I'm talking about the pH of the runoff, not of the tea itself.
You can check out my journal posted below for pics if it helps (not all of them are as ugly as the ones that Tac posted the other day... some, but not all)...
FK
P.S.- I've got an EC stick on my list for pickup on Friday- then you'll just have to teach me how to use the damn thing.
