Organics & EC readings - This is even more of a danger zone to talk about here than the great PH debate but you know me
Luna - The numbers are a (rough guide) to the nutrient potency but they are consistent within (your system).
Simply finding your general EC (sweet spot) number range will take some time & cycles but should eliminate the guessing game with how much & when to feed.
Here is a simple general example:
Got a plant in full flower with runoff telling me the soil is at EC 2.0 / PPM 1000 or 1400 (my max sweet spot for this stain) 3 days later I water & my runoff EC drops to 1.6 showing me I need to feed now about 0.4 or in 3 more days about 0.8.
So I just add a dash of this & that till the tea gets to that number (not following a general guessing schedule).
What has led me to this working is noticing that when I get lazy & fed the standard way (TBS per gal) is the soil gets up to numbers like (EC 3.2 / PPM 1600 - 2240 & growth / health slows & EC levels slowly drop.
BUT when I keep runoff on larger plants near (EC 2.0 / PPM 1000 - 1400) they gobble up the nutes (EC runoff levels drop much quicker) & the plants grow great.
This is hard for me to explain - hope you can make sense of it ?
I ask the skeptics to check your runoff & post your readings - I would be willing to bet your numbers are really high ?
* This is just something I have been tinkering with for fun & im extremely happy with the results. This is a brief intro on it (needs its own thread) but if there is much interest then I would be willing to share more (in a different thread) about my lone travels down the organic ec rabbit hole.
Had a few people ask me about doing it & I started but quit due to the fact it seemed to be falling on deaf ears.
It gos against what the majority have been teaching, maybe im just lucky & my soil, water, nutes combo makes my results very affective ?
Building a rich humus soil, adding lime & letting mother nature take care of the rest wasn't working as good as this for me.
Watching & recording the EC runoff numbers I noticed consistent readings where the plant was the "happiest" at a general EC #.
So I simply just keep the soil in that general area depending on the stage of growth.
Its not reinventing the wheel - just a tool to have a general idea how rich the soil is so you got an idea if your under or overfeeding.
But now that I have done it for awhile im able to really dial things in.
I would recomend testing the runoff with plain water first before you boost it with 1.2, thats a fairy good level going in.
Im getting the feeling your runoff might be maxing the meter + 3.6 maybe.
Its real easy to get up to high levels like that, expecially if the PH is way out & or amendments are kicking in.
Over 3.0 seems to bog a plant down - Understand though a plant can grow "alright" at high levels (maxing meter) but keeping it much lower is where you wanna be.
Its not an end all solution to problems - you can still get deficiencies, just won't be from over or under feeding hopefully.
If my grow is running smooth these Green Devils will suck up about 0.6 EC in 3 days during mid flower.
Wish I only watered once a week - its that normal ? Mine would be falling over 1/2 dead if I waited that long ?
Cool NP,
Not sure whats the deal with the long watering ?
What & how much are you adding to the promix amendment wise ?
Whats the EC of the water your using ?
Not that I doubt you or anything like that, but I was under the impression that 0 ppm is nearly impossible. R/O water still comes out with a few ppm. And well water is notorious for having a higher ppm due to it being stored under ground (contact to mineral which dissolve) and not treated at a water treatment facility. So, on that note, I might recommend you calibrate your meter? If you have already done so, I'm out of suggestions, and congratulations on an absurdly pure water. Many hydro growers would be stoked.
The joys of living in the Northeastern United States! (One of the few...) I have a hot tub, so I know for a fact that the Ca level is 30 ppm, which is obviously too low to register on the meter. By the way, I bought a bluelab Truncheon, which requires no calibration- and seeing as it's brandy-new, I trust it's integrity still. Granted, it could still be higher than 0 ppm, but no lights light up at all, that's what I meant actually. And third (yes, there is a third!), I got a "well water test kit" from a company called WaterSafe, which, while probably not 100% accurate (real water testing is expensive, as I'm sure you know) none-the-less registered as 0 ppm on every test (iron, copper, lead, bacteria, pesticides, Nitrates and Nitrites, Chlorine... and as I mentioned, the TH (Total Hardness) was <50ppm)... So I guess I'm just lucky. And I gotta tell ya, my water tastes GOOOOOD!
FK
One thing I just thought of: for whatever reason (I think I need some new airstones) the pH of my tea isn't rising, and it's time to water them. Should I raise the pH with Hydrated lime (takes about 1/4t per gallon), or use it as it is? My pH is around 4 at last check. The runoff the last time I checked was pH 6.0.
FK
I'm curious to hear other's opinions on what to do here as well. My tea has been bubbling @ 65 degrees for 2 days and the ph hasn't risen one bit.
I'm curious to hear other's opinions on what to do here as well. My tea has been bubbling @ 65 degrees for 2 days and the ph hasn't risen one bit.
Personally I'd get a silica additive and use it as a ph for your tea, It will bring the ph up and provide silica to the plants.
I wouldnt run the 4.0 ph tea through without bringing it up to 6.4 6.5 range for soil. I'd bring it up with silica additive myself, But if you choose to use lime so be it.
Silica blast or simular will work and its benneficial to the plants.
Did a light topdressabout 2 weeks ago with some of that DE / Silica powder due to a funus knat infestation which seems to have helped with the bugs but wow it really had a positive affect on the plants overall stalk & branch strength.
There ALOT stiffer & hard to bend - its like they got armor skin, HUGE difference, hard to explain & believe.