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Earth Juice Users

FinestKind

Member
So, this is actually copied over from here https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=192322&page=4 .... anyone who's curious about Dutchgrown's LUI 13 stop on by...

"I just fed my girls... what went in was pH 5.5 nute solution, with a final EC of 1.4

What came out varied a bit.

-On what I'd objectively call the two "least healthy" plants (one of them being that yellowed one from a week ago), the pH was 6.1 and EC 1.9 on one, and the other was actually a different strain, but the pH was 6.3 and the EC was 2.0.

-On 4 other random ones, the "average" (I collected it all in one tray) runoff was pH 6.0 and EC 2.7. These were fairly healthy overall and just showing some yellow leaves at the bottom, which are definitely N deficiency.

-On another set of 4 randoms, the pH was 6.3 and the EC was 2.4. These also looked pretty healthy overall (no signs of nute burn) except for some yellow leaves at the bottom.

I've become convinced that I have been consistently underfeeding with N for a few cycles now, which I'm hoping I corrected with this feeding (double what I normally give, up to 20ml/ 1TB + 1tsp, per gallon)."

So, Tac, none of them were as high as 3.0, although a few were close... but that's with the tea going in. I went ahead and fed them because I had a lot of leaves showing N deficiency and the tea was ready... I'm thinking on Friday (4 days after that feeding), I'll check the EC on a few of them again with just plain water... what do you see in these numbers? Anything of value?

FK
 
I checked your thread - they are looking pretty good.

Your PH is looking real good & a light topdress of that DE powder might bring them up just a little & get the benefits of the silica.

The EC seems pretty good - a bit of variation but thats probably mostly due to the different strains. That will complicate things somewhat expecially with the new process but it looks like you got a good grip on things.

Im thinking its going so good due to your PH being in the sweet spot, if your runoff was 7.0 or more, I bet your plants wouldn't be lookin' so good.

I veg mine awhile & they are much bigger but I ran an EC runoff of 2.0 - 2.5 the entire flower cycle with these monsters & they were real healthy at the end. You might want to stay around 2.0 or slightly less ?

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Seems it doesn't take high levels of nutes to keep big plants satisfied.
 

FinestKind

Member
Those look great, that's what I'm talkin' about! I see you're in the no fan leaves camp- looks like it works ok for you. :)

Thanks for checking over my numbers, the meter definitely gives me some more confidence- honestly, I've never really been certain if I was under or over-feeding- if I was looking at nute burn or deficiency. Definitely a big help- thanks Tac.

FK
 
Ive been experimenting with de-faning - leaning towards it being a positive method but only tested it on my last two runs so im still unsure about it.

If it doesn't help stimulate hormones, allow better lower bud growth, lessen PM / budrot problems which all are very possible - one thing it does 100% for sure is make harvest ALOT quicker as its pretty much ready to hang :)

Plus its nice to gaze at the ladies when there butt naked & not hiding there goodies :)

Hope this info / methods help some one in some way.
 

FinestKind

Member
Ive been experimenting with de-faning - leaning towards it being a positive method but only tested it on my last two runs so im still unsure about it.

If it doesn't help stimulate hormones, allow better lower bud growth, lessen PM / budrot problems which all are very possible - one thing it does 100% for sure is make harvest ALOT quicker as its pretty much ready to hang :)

Plus its nice to gaze at the ladies when there butt naked & not hiding there goodies :)

Hope this info / methods help some one in some way.

Are you doing side-by-side comparisons? I'd love to hear the results... it obviously makes sense for the the lower buds to develop better w/o the fan leaves shading them, that's a big plus right there. Seeing as most of my fan leaves are falling off because of N deficiency, I may be there with you, anyway. :p

Oddly, I've never (knock on wood) had any problems with any fungal issues indoors, but I get them EVERY SINGLE TIME I grow outdoors... so I'm less concerned with that aspect. Definitely let me know your findings.
 

justiceman

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey I have an earth juice question for you guys. I just recently purchased a drip system. Can I use the Grow, bloom, catalyst, meta k, etc without clogging the pump or drip lines?

Nice plants Tactical Farmer.
 

FinestKind

Member
When do you add Microblast?

When do you add Microblast?

Hey folks,

I just had a notion I thought I'd run by the Community...

I've been having Fe deficiencies fairly regularly, despite a weekly dose (1 tsp per gallon) of Microblast and 1/2 tsp of Cal/Mag+, which contains Iron. I was reading the label, in the very fine print, on my Cal-Mag bottle, and this is what it says: "Note- In hydroponics, iron falls out of the solution relatively fast due to use of magnetic driven pumps without grounding and high levels of dissolved oxygen from air stones and pumps." Hmm.... sounds like the conditions that exist in my teas, no?

So, I got to wondering, I can't imagine the iron in the Microblast wouldn't react the very same way- Iron is iron, after all- and I frequently have my teas going for 3 to 4 days (for reasons perhaps we'll get into some other time...) and, come to think of it, I have noticed sediment that looks like sand when I'm done feeding, and it's very heavy like sand and I just haven't really thought about it before...

So, my question is: when do you guys add your Microblast, and do you ever experience iron deficiencies?

Just looking for some validation for my theory, really- thoughts?

FK
 

AOD2012

I have the key, now i need to find the lock..
Veteran
hey finest. its funny that you say that, as i have been having a those same issues. been using spray-n-grow, seems to fix it. but its been happening on a regular basis. wonder if anyone else has had that issue
 

Dorje113

Member
So, my question is: when do you guys add your Microblast, and do you ever experience iron deficiencies?

Just looking for some validation for my theory, really- thoughts?

FK

I use a small dose regularly, maybe once a week. I just mix and water. No iron deficiencies.

I think your theory sounds reasonable, but can't say for sure.

Tac, I have used soil test kits for a long time (12 years or so), and taught a lot of people to use them... they do work. They will tell you if you have too much nutes, too little nutes, or somewhere in between pretty clearly, but I agree they are not at all accurate if you are looking for a scientific tool to produce good data. If you want that a pro kit costs about $500... For soil pH, they are more useful, and read like a regular pH test.

There are a few different kits, Rapidtest is often available at Home Depot, and I've used Security brand, which is better. I'd like to try the Lamotte kit, about $50, but looks pretty nice.

I definitely think it is better to do a soil test regularly and develop a feeding program based on the test results than it is to follow directions on a bottle or use a canned feeding program.
 

FinestKind

Member
I use a small dose regularly, maybe once a week. I just mix and water. No iron deficiencies.

I think your theory sounds reasonable, but can't say for sure.

Tac, I have used soil test kits for a long time (12 years or so), and taught a lot of people to use them... they do work. They will tell you if you have too much nutes, too little nutes, or somewhere in between pretty clearly, but I agree they are not at all accurate if you are looking for a scientific tool to produce good data. If you want that a pro kit costs about $500... For soil pH, they are more useful, and read like a regular pH test.

There are a few different kits, Rapidtest is often available at Home Depot, and I've used Security brand, which is better. I'd like to try the Lamotte kit, about $50, but looks pretty nice.

I definitely think it is better to do a soil test regularly and develop a feeding program based on the test results than it is to follow directions on a bottle or use a canned feeding program.

Interesting... I've noticed that when I just "mix and water" I don't show any Fe deficiencies either... I'm just going to play it safe from now on and mix in the Micro right before I feed.

FK
 

AOD2012

I have the key, now i need to find the lock..
Veteran
yea but wont adding the micro after you bubble it bring the ph down again?
 

Keyz

Member
Do you have a feed schedule you like to work with for the Sweet and Heavy line? I'm giving that one a shot this time. There may be one posted in this thread already, but I'm at work, so can't be on here for long, but if there is, can someone point me to the post number?

I have their feed schedule from the company, but I'd like to know if anyone has some amended feed schedules based upon their personal use.
 

Tac

New member
Hey Folks - forgot my password :)

In my attempts to cover my web trail it seems I got lost myself. lol

So you got some Sweet & Heavy - its a 4 part & the ratios are lot different than the old line.

Haven't heard of anyone using the new stuff - I can't find it w/o ordering :(

Whats the ingredients on the bottles ?

Sweet & Heavy “4 part”

1 Sweet & Heavy Prime – (0-0-1-.5:mag-.1FE)

Formula contains designated macros and micros chelated by selected proteins and phytoacids.

natural molasses
kelp
bat and fossilized guano.

2 Sweet & Heavy Grow – (3-1-4)

Formula is a natural sucrose-nitrogen complex designed to provide vigorous green vegetative growth

3 Sweet & Heavy Bloom – (2-6-4)

Formula provides natural sucrose-phosphate complex that targets the production of flowers, fruit and vegetables

4 Sweet & Heavy FINIS - (0-6-3.8)

is an optional finishing formula designed for determinate flowering & fruiting plants. Recommend to use starting at 14 days prior to harvest. Recommend to use with sugar peak BRIXIMUS MAXIMUS.

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Just got 2 new items - Dynagrow Pro-Tekt 0-0-3 & Humboldt Equilibrium 1-1-2.

The Equilibrium Natural is said to = In thorough tests conducted by the Humboldt Nutrients team throughout the hills and valleys of Northern California this specific solution of Ca and Mg dominated the competition in side-by-side trials.

General Application: Use 1-5 ml per gallon of water or nutrient solution.
Foliar Application: Use at a rate of 5ml per gallon of finished foliar solution.

Total Nitrogen (N)…………………………………………………..1.00%
1.00% Nitrate Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P2O5)…………………………………….1.00%
Soluble Potash (K2O5)………………………………………….…2.00%
Calcium (C)…………………………………………………………12.00%
Magnesium (Mg)………………………………………………..…..2.00%
2.00% Water Soluble Magnesium
Iron (Fe)………………………………………………………………….0.34%


Derived From: Soft rock phosphate, Calcium Carbonate, Crab meal, Magnesium oxide, Magnesium sulfate, Iron oxide, Solubor

Also Contains non plant food ingredient: Kelp, Yucca, polysaccharides and honey

It looks to be a prefect product to cover Cal - Mag - Iron - which are the 3 deficiencies that kinda pop up out of the blue when the plants been growing for awhile.
 

Tac

New member
Im not digging the smell as its pure pneumonia (sp?) - must be the N form ? Might call the shop to confirm its not spoiled.

But the ingredients sound legit for the most part & for $20 at 5ml per gal max it should last a long time.

Ive tried lime again & again but its a disaster every time in my garden.

2 then 1 then 1/2 then 1/4 TBS per gal = runoff PH 7+ = :( plants

I would feed at PH 4 with no bubble & it would come out the bottom 1 min later as runoff 7+ time after time.

Cut it out completely & things are GREAT - Cal / Mag / Iron are the only issues that ever arise here, grocery store molasses is great but not very accurate.

This looks like maybe the long lost final key ive been needing ?
 

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