Dud Identification Collective Knowledge.

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

got one of those dust masks from homedepot. gonna go room to room and fumigate the whole house just to make sure theres none lurking from being tracked around. im using a cyanide gas fogger i got of a chinese fumigation website.. wish me luck ive never used this stuff and i cant read the instructions, the skull and crossbones is the only part in english.

 

[Loc Dog]

If Pylon is for ornamental's, probably not safe to smoke.

I hope str8edge is joking.

 

[Mikenite69]

Ya well I don't think anyone would smoke plants treated with pylon but I am sure it doesn't stay around long enough after you take clean clones from the infected plants.

Some more info on pylon and ofcourse you wouldn't want to use any of these harsh chems on flowering plants.

Pylon is an insecticide/matricide containing the active ingredient chlorfenapyr. Pylon, manufactured by OHP Inc., is labeled for control of two spotted spider mite, broad mite, cyclamen mite, citrus bud mite and rust mite. This insecticide/matricide has both contact and translaminar activity. Additionally, Pylon works as a stomach poison when ingested. The insecticide/matricide is active on the mobile life stages, including larvae, nymphs and adults. It has no activity on mite eggs.

Pylon may provide up to 28 days of control. The label rate is 2.6-5.2 fl.oz. per 100 gals. The mode of action of Pylon involves uncoupling oxidative phosphorylation, which is a major energy-producing step in cells, by disrupting the H+ gradient, and thus preventing the formation of adenosine tri-phosphate (ATP), a high-energy organic phosphate responsible for energy transfer during cellular reactions.

 

[redlaser]

Home depot carries the best dust masks, you should be good. The cuttings I dipped in 110 water are ok so far. they were 10 days into flower, so not the best material. Took 15 more of 5 different strains that are of better quality today and kept them at 109-111 for 35 minutes, should be a better test. These varieties are new to me but share similar issues. No smell, similar dark green foliage, easily broken stalks and branches. Original plants roots were yellow/brown, seems like pythium. Some of the plants would appear about 50% healthy and when you pulled the stalk out of the soil mix it would look like the eraser end of a pencil, no attached roots.

 

[HUGE]

hell I don't remember, just when we think we got it figured out you cant find anything, let me ask, was the plant still green and alive when you scoped it ?

Green but alive is a relative term with plants. Let's call it slowly dying. I cut the crown out with a razor blade. Thick strong. Sliced pieces of it up, and a couple lower branches. It just seems more tree like than cannabis like. No damage no worms that I could see. They might have all died or skurried from the chopping yesterday

 

[Grizz]

Green but alive is a relative term with plants. Let's call it slowly dying. I cut the crown out with a razor blade. Thick strong. Sliced pieces of it up, and a couple lower branches. It just seems more tree like than cannabis like. No damage no worms that I could see. They might have all died or skurried from the chopping yesterday

it was said that as the plant dries out they retreat to the roots or soil,

 

[whatthe215]

What....... CYANIDE GAS?!

Are we seriously considering using cyanide gas in our spaces now?

That's intense.

 

[Backyard Farmer]

Do you know if pylons effects also transfer to the plant ? It's basically saying it shuts down one of the most essential things to life , ATP , plants also have an ATP cycle , how does pylon know not to turn off the plants , too ?

 

[RetroGrow]

got one of those dust masks from homedepot. gonna go room to room and fumigate the whole house just to make sure theres none lurking from being tracked around. im using a cyanide gas fogger i got of a chinese fumigation website.. wish me luck ive never used this stuff and i cant read the instructions, the skull and crossbones is the only part in english.

I'm guessing you may be joking, but if not, read the following:

Just been researching FUMIGATION OF ORNAMENTAL GREENHOUSE PLANTS WITH HYDROCYANIC-ACID GAS, otherwise known as cyanide. Be careful, as it can kill you. You want to keep exposure times to a minimum, like 20 minutes to half an hour at most, to avoid damage to plants. Also, should be done at night or lights out when stomata are closed. That way, plants don't breathe it in. I would test it on a couple of plants first, as I don't trust anything from China.
At least read this before you start:
https://play.google.com/books/reade...sec=frontcover&output=reader&authuser=0&hl=en

It's actually cheap to buy here in U.S.

"The chemicals required in fumigating with hydrocyanic-acid gas are sodium cyanid (NaCN) or potassium cyanid (KCN), sulphuric acid (H2S04), and water (H20). Potassium cyanid has been superseded recently by sodium cyanid in the generation of this gas, and the former is rarely used nowadays in fumigation.

CO2@ 10,000 PPMS also will kill all bugs. Also should be done with stomata closed, although there is some argument about that, and I don't see how it kills nematodes if stomata are closed. Read some of the CO2 links here @ IC. Just search CO2.

 

[RetroGrow]

What....... CYANIDE GAS?!

Are we seriously considering using cyanide gas in our spaces now?

That's intense.

It's commonly used in greenhouses. Hey, Forbid, Judo, Avid are all poisons too. Get that stuff on your skin,and you could have problems. Gas only hurts you if you breathe it.

 

[Loc Dog]

I could not imagine being able to buy, or use, except licensed experts. Would think, even inquiring would put you on homeland security shitlist.

They must use the equivalent of a space suit, to be in building with this.

 

[Mister_D]

I could not imagine being able to buy, or use, except licensed experts. Would think, even inquiring would put you on homeland security shitlist.

They must use the equivalent of a space suit, to be in building with this.

Exactly what I was thinking. Cyanide seems a bit heavy to acquire for your average joe .

 

[Loc Dog]

If anyone is not being sarcastic. Why not heat area to 130F for 24 hours, instead of using poison.

I do not want to see anyone getting ill, let alone dying from this.

I grew up in 1960's, when a bunch of common items were carcinogenic. Renuzit cleaner (carbon tetra chloride), DDT, etc.. Try to avoid unkown's these days.

 

[RetroGrow]

Anyone try these?
They are microscopic beneficial nematodes, sold @ Home Depot. You put them in a spray bottle and spray them on the plants. Not sure if they kill Ditylenchus dipsaci , but worth a try. They are small enough to get into stomata, and cost only $18. I would be trying these if I had Ditylenchus dipsaci.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/LADIES-I...ERCH=RV-_-RV_gm_pip_rr-2-_-NA-_-100655849-_-N

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

Forgot to check if anyone was home. Second room I got to was my roommates turns out he was taking a nap I think. I didn't wake him up because he would get pissed if he knew I just put a bag over his head while I did his room. How soon do you think it would be safe to take it off?
Anyway I think that's should do it. I think next time I'll do the heat treatment.
In all seriousness. I don't think cyanide would work because the bugs are in the plant not on it. As for pylon I'm going to go out on a limb and say it probably works different in a plant than a bugs digestion. Otherwise I think the results would deter all the people in Cali that use it.

 

[RetroGrow]

If anyone is not being sarcastic. Why not heat area to 130F for 24 hours, instead of using poison.

I do not want to see anyone getting ill, let alone dying from this.

I grew up in 1960's, when a bunch of common items were carcinogenic. Renuzit cleaner (carbon tetra chloride), DDT, etc.. Try to avoid unkown's these days.

We know plants can take 120F for an hour or so with no damage. 130F for 24 hours is a different story, and we don't even know if it kills nematodes. Also, not easy to get to 130F. You could try it on one plant that you know has Ditylenchus dipsaci, and see if it kills them. I'm guessing not. They can take high and low temperatures.

 

[Loc Dog]

Exactly what I was thinking. Cyanide seems a bit heavy to acquire for your average joe .

Big brother had a system 10 years ago, that automatically traced anyone, who typed in specific keywords. I am thinking carnivore, but probably another name.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnivore_%28software%29

Echelon is the newer one, which does phones -

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ECHELON

 

[RetroGrow]

Big brother had a system 10 years ago, that automatically traced anyone, who typed in specific keywords. I am thinking carnivore, but probably another name.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnivore_%28software%29

You can buy cyanide in the U.S. but you need paperwork. Easily bought from out of the country. Google it.

 

[Loc Dog]

We know plants can take 120F for an hour or so with no damage. 130F for 24 hours is a different story, and we don't even know if it kills nematodes. Also, not easy to get to 130F. You could try it on one plant that you know has Ditylenchus dipsaci, and see if it kills them. I'm guessing not. They can take high and low temperatures.

I meant for sterilizing an area, before chemical warfare. I hope those talking about lethals, did not want to use on production, but cleansing between grows.

I have no evidence of, in current grow which is all seedling size clones.

 

[bobblehead]

Gas only hurts you if you breathe it.

This is 100% wrong. Mucus membranes are particularly sensitive to gasses due to the capillary beds being so close to the surface. Eyes, nose, mouth, etc... Your skin absorbs chemicals to a lesser extent. Please use proper protection when using poison gas ie goggles, gloves, correctly rated mask, and coveralls.