my thoughts excatly, im not waiting for the proof that doenst exist, this guys running plants all the time and when anybody brings it up(the utter quackery of the claims) it he just repost old pics over n over again and takes up anohter two pages with his big type, hey its great u can grow erb cheap with cfls, but the yeild claims are for the birds-
you've been here how long? ...what makes you think your opinion means
a damn thing to those of us who have followed, and emulated, the good
Doctors work?
why not put up or shut up, lets see some pics of something you've grown!
here's a couple of some of mine, grown under nothing but CFL's, so, your
opinion notwithstanding, i already know his methods work! ...and i can
prove it!
CFL SOG's do indeed work.
JAB, I'm not seeing you using Dr. Bud's method in your pics. There is alot of empty space in your cab.
For it to truly be a "Dr.Bud Method" grow, I think you have to have the high density part. Without the high density, it's just another CFL micro grow.
oh yeah... raising the density decreases light penetration, So there is a trade off. Once you guys are running high density at full capacity, start measuring your results and let us know, you don't even have to provide pics. I don't ever weigh mine and I never take pics, but when my micro-sog became high density running at full capacity (the "Dr. Bud method"), my lower bud growth was embarassing. I cry everytime I have to trim it.
EDIT: I will say, when I shortened the height between floor and lights, the plants filled in a bit better. I started with 24" from floor to bulb... plants grow stretchy with inches of space between some of the nodes wasting alot of room IMO, and the lower buds are far from the light. I put in a shelf about six inches higher and so far I like the shorter plants, and all the lower bud growth is now closer to the lights.
And I am all about getting the most for my $$$$$
$$$$ is fer Bills....not fer yur Meds
my thoughts excatly, im not waiting for the proof that doenst exist, this guys running plants all the time and when anybody brings it up(the utter quackery of the claims) it he just repost old pics over n over again and takes up anohter two pages with his big type, hey its great u can grow erb cheap with cfls, but the yeild claims are for the birds-
Someone was NOT paying attention in class...
on the right side of the Chambers U will see that those 3 bulbs R right on top of the containers.
That's where the plantlets spend their first week.
Don't try to repeat what I have dun in an 1/2 ass-ed unprepared Manner and then say...
Nope won't work
It works "Get Over it" this method has shown countless people
that they CAN grow MJ @ home without a bunch of Fancy "SnakeOils" high dollar lights and other BS
Thats right Folks
almost anybody can do it ...if they want to
"Intrest & Desire"
we get U there
$$$$ is fer Bills....not fer yur Meds
I have been using CFL's ever since my first grow. They are perfect for the small space I use as they do not give off too much heat - in fact they keep it at a perfect 27C at all times. I get great yields and the smoke is top quality.
What detractors of this thread are so pissed about is that they have gone and spent hundreds of dollars on HIDs and cooling systems whereas us CFL growers are getting basically the same quality and yield for a fraction of the cost - and the HID growers can't stand this. Whereas a constructive approach (like perhaps researching the topic) might yield a more productive result, the HID growers would prefer to bitch and moan until the cows come home about CFL's trying to make themselves feel a little better.
Just my 2c.
I am currently running a micro with no superthrive, no nutrients at all actually, except for fish emulsion during veg. I dont think ill have Drbud results but my buds are swelling and looking very nice....on a hot summer day, there is nothin better than a cool budsicle ;D
You don't really need the Superthrive.
"Trust me." =]
when it really looks to be closer to 4.5 per plant in the real world average.
Oh... and if anything, this is an ad for Shultz.This is starting to sound like an Advanced Nutrient Ad.
Otherwise you get what god and genetics provide you with and nothing more.
I raise all my plants up to the light when they enter 12/12.
You are assuming I've half-assed things so you can dismiss my input after using (and tweaking) this method for a year. Thats kinda, eh... weak.
And still, none of what you just said has anything to do with what I was talking about. Now pay attention (yup, right back at ya). When my plants are at full height after the stretch, in a high-density SOG perpetual harvest cab at full capacity in 20 and 24 oz drink bottle pots, the buds beneath the canopy suffer. No amount of green "hype" speech or growing-skill insults will make that untrue.
Since you seem to not have understood and to keep you from confusing people with your confusion... Shortening the total height allowance is showing better results, for me, then trying to grow 18" budsicles. The plants on the shelf (at full height already) with 18" total height allowance from floor to light are filling in better towards the end of flowering than the plants sitting on the floor (at full height) with 24" total height allowance.
Just for the record, I don't half-ass anything ...but I have seen people with half-full cabs claiming to use your method. That seems like cheating after the trend you started of looking at individual plant weights and multiplying to get a theoretical g/w ratio.
I too have taken your method, fixed some of the flaws as people seem to do sooner or later (go read Thundurkel's thread), and ran with it. Slowly converting over to 4" square pots (half gal. milk jugs), training, more soil, more light penetration, half the plant count, still a CFL SOG but not as crammed and nowhere near as time consuming.
So thanks, I guess, for turning me on to a CFL canopy for flowering. I don't think I can be any more clear and now you just got me repeating myself to keep you from being so confused... I'll leave your thread and methods alone now. That's a promise.
Unsubscribed.
Heres my , I've read most of what he has said
I think the secret is having the right strain/pheno, some plants will produce under these conditions and others simply won't. It seems he has done ALOT of breeding and after all that, probably still chooses a certain clone that is 'special'.. His plants also seem to reveg in a short amount of time, so I really think he has selected plants for certain traits. This takes alot of time and some knowledge, but I think anyone who follows his detailed instuctions and then dials in their grow can achieve something similiar to his results. There is no way to prove him wrong though, you simply didn't do it 'right' and need to keep trying
Thanks for sharing your methods and providing pictures of how everything is setup.
seems to me hybrids with a decent amount of sat in them grow well.