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DIY'ers come on in Shed build from scratch

Hydropimp

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QQ125

The anchors are for a small shed i will be making it will come out 5ft and will be the lenght of the existing shed. this is to store shit and make sure no one sees me working on the drain. the grow will be in the bigger shed.

Which is under the cone.

it will have a height of 6 ft.

The door is not for the existing shed but for the one i am making. I have a pre hung exterior door already.

i am looking to buy sill plate vapor barrier. but can't find it locally. will add this and a layer of roofing paper i think that is what its called to give it an extra layer of vapor barrier.

then i will frame.

now the door question

i can't buy a door because not enough height. i will be maxed out at <6.5 ft

so i will have to make one or two.

But need to make it seal just incase i would like to use the area for later. but don't know as of yet.

It will be insulated inside and have a layer of 1/2 cement board on top of the 1/2 or 3/4 plywood siding.
 

queequeg152

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without a table saw and router table... i dont think you will be able to make a very good door.

just cut down the jambs on a wood interior door... then paint it and install weather striping.

alternativly buy a steel insulated exterior door and a fire extinguisher and a 4" angle grinder with a cut off disk.

you might have to relocate the bottom hinges. so get a small set of chisels.

regarding your anchor bolts.

those look legit earthquake anchors? i suppose you live in earthquake country?

what do you mean by cement board? like hardi backer/durock? or are you talking about fiber cement siding?
 
M

Mr.Doe

Hey buddy my new username. I'll hit ya up when I get my pm's up. Good to see you got your build going!
 

marrdogg

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Veteran
Buy solid core exterior door. You can cut some off top and bottom. If you don't want to do that you can always get some 3/4" plywood from home depot and have them cut it to your size. If you want insulated you can run two with 1×4 between this will allow you to insulate door. PEACE!

Home Depot will also cut the door if your buying. Good Luck!
 

Hydropimp

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without a table saw and router table... i dont think you will be able to make a very good door.

I have access to a table saw and a miter saw on deck just in case if need be. will source the right tool to make the job go smooth.

just cut down the jambs on a wood interior door... then paint it and install weather striping. this is doable

alternativly buy a steel insulated exterior door and a fire extinguisher and a 4" angle grinder with a cut off disk. like this

you might have to relocate the bottom hinges. so get a small set of chisels.

Thanks

I know its over kill but don't want my shit flying away.

what do you mean by cement board? like hardi backer/durock? or are you talking about fiber cement siding?

I think it is durock and it is what is on the existing shed

Hey buddy my new usernam

Nice to see u around get them post up homie


Buy solid core exterior door. You can cut some off top and bottom. If you don't want to do that you can always get some 3/4" plywood from home depot and have them cut it to your size. If you want insulated you can run two with 1×4 between this will allow you to insulate door. PEACE!


]

Home Depot will also cut the door if your buying. Good Luck!

Put it in a nuts shell

thanks dogg[/B

We will make this happen i work alot and not enough time in the day. But shit is moving forword

Been the last couple of days looking at framing videos and also building rafters.


Still need to study up on the rafters. Need to figure out my slope and my height.
 

queequeg152

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Veteran
durock is not water proof. its actually not even supposed to be. i think hardibacker is better in that respect... but more brittle.

its a substrate for tiles in wet areas, its not a good sheathing. i suppose you could throw some stucco over it... but if you are going to do stucco, just throw down some foam board and metal lath. that + the drainage barriers is the conventional way to lay stucco from what i recall.

i seriously reccomend t1-11 panels for ultra cheap exterior siding... paint it with a good primer before it gets wet and rained on or get dirt splashed onto it. paint the very bottom edge well. the stuff is shitty compared to most other products.

what happens is splashed water rots out the bottom first by wicking up the grain. then the bottom 8-16 inches rot out.

its stupid cheap though.

regarding the anchors.

fair enough. they look like 3/4" anchors though?
if you already bought them and still are looking for epoxy... home depot sells anchor epoxy from sika and simpson.

it should be in the masonry isle and in the simpson strong tile area. its like 20 bucks for a 10 ounce tube. one tube is good for... maby 6 anchors at 6" embed.

drill your holes 1/8" over sized to accomidate the epoxy.

regarding the door. if you really want to, you can get some s4s stock and mill the jamb and slot for weather stripping.

i forgot though... you can buy good pvc door jambs at most lumber yards. just go with that and cut it down to what ever you need on your miter saw.

then buy what ever width door you need and hang it in the jambs. if you have a router... you can get a hinge template that makes the process pretty much idiot proof.
 

queequeg152

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err it just dawned on me... durock is just a brand name?

you must be using some sort of exterior rated product like densglas?.
the above was in reference to the stuff you lay down in showers.
 

Hydropimp

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Need to find an in line filter.

To filter the well water before it hits the pump or the a/c unit.

Over time it will crate a film that will fuck with the unit so would like to minimize that and filter it.

Any ideas.

The run will consist of 1.5-or 2 inch pvc. Think it is going to be 2 in hooked up to a 2hp sprinkler pump. which will be connected to a 24v solenoid.
 

paper thorn

Active member
Veteran
Old sheds can be a lot of work.
Good luck with it, haha, seems a couple days work turned into a year Hydropimp.

Check out the first page in my thread, C'mon Son! you'll like it.
 

Hydropimp

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Shit happens and I can't work at the spot to many hours. Also I work 7 days a week will take my vacation soon and then put in some real.

Also getting hit by shit ton of rain.
 

Hydropimp

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got some framing done.

now i am at the point where i need to cut the roof rafters.

My rise is 10¼"

Run is 84 "

full length of shed is 14ft 168"

the highest point is 80 ¼"

the lowest is 6 ft

what comes next as in the lines to cut the rafters seat and birds

and what pitch 2/12
3/12
4/12 etc

and the over hang?
 

Hydropimp

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Veteran
Guess i will go with a 2/12 pitch since my rise is only 10.25 in

Fucking rain took off work to get shit done and hit by rain. I am going to buy the rafter lumber now.
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
pick up one of them rafter squares imho... the ones with the adjustable little brass stops.

helps immensely when cutting any number of bird mouths.

alternatively, consider the simpson LSU brackets.
 

Hydropimp

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Veteran
Check it out I have more done than what's in the pic.

This is just a dry fit to see the work in progress



I will pressure wash the slab before I permanently fram the shed

Moving along slowly but moving.

Never done this type of build but I am handy.

Also for anyone that want to build anything.

always have the right tool for the job will make it go more smoother
 

Hydropimp

Active member
Veteran
Paslode homie

Cordless I rented it bought a shit load of nails that's where they get u and the fuel tube.

But the shit works nice will rent it again when I need it. Its 400 to buy. No need to purchase but maybe later just to have one Around for the fence and other builds.

Going to pick up the brass stoppers

I like to buy once not spend twice
 
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