IntelliGeneS
Member
Lots of good info here, thanks.
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DIY'ers come on in Shed build from scratch
- Thread starter Hydropimp
- Start date
Are you going to be renting or owning this property?
How far from neighbors is the shed? Can people living near or going by see you working on the shed?
In the winter you shouldn't need a/c but will need a heat source. The radiation of heat or heat source exhaust will be noticeable in the dead of winter. I think a shed like that heated 24/7 would draw attention.
You could have two separate bloom rooms. They could be on a switch box. Let's say each bloom area is 4x4 with one 1000w light in each bloom room. The ballast runs 24/7 but the switch box lights one room 12/12 and then switches it to the other room 12/12.
When on the lighted room exhaust to the unlighted room to keep it warm during lights off. The veg area would have a light on all the time or 18/6 so it would need some additional heat source.
How far from neighbors is the shed? Can people living near or going by see you working on the shed?
In the winter you shouldn't need a/c but will need a heat source. The radiation of heat or heat source exhaust will be noticeable in the dead of winter. I think a shed like that heated 24/7 would draw attention.
You could have two separate bloom rooms. They could be on a switch box. Let's say each bloom area is 4x4 with one 1000w light in each bloom room. The ballast runs 24/7 but the switch box lights one room 12/12 and then switches it to the other room 12/12.
When on the lighted room exhaust to the unlighted room to keep it warm during lights off. The veg area would have a light on all the time or 18/6 so it would need some additional heat source.
Don't use thin-set. Use self leveling underlayment. You mix it and pour, let it find the low spots. Might need a squeegee to help it out. Also a good idea to prime the concrete with a latex primer.
I would use a vapor barrier on all exterior walls to prevent condensation & mildew.
And can whoever wrote about Great Stuff off-gassing provide a source? Just like to see for myself.
I would use a vapor barrier on all exterior walls to prevent condensation & mildew.
And can whoever wrote about Great Stuff off-gassing provide a source? Just like to see for myself.
get pictures of the walls, walls connection to slab, the sil plates, top plates, and where your roof structure meets the top plates.
get better pics than your previous ones. those look like they were shot on a phone from the 90's.
get better pics than your previous ones. those look like they were shot on a phone from the 90's.
I'm gonna miss some shit and some of it has already been mentioned but here goes:
permits, prep the slab with gravel, leveling, grading. Determine plumbing breakout with conduit, drains plumbed any other slab related issues do them now. Must have plastic vapor barrier on gravel, seams taped. Run wire or rebar, form final shape to grade, pour, remembering to place anchor bolts.
Take time to run diagonals on the slab adjust for inaccuracies and snap lines to lay bottom plates. Run sill seal before running pressure treated bottom plates holding to your snap line to insure final structure is square. You will have to drill holes for the anchor bolts so it will take some time. Don't tighten the plates until you are done.Sill seal you just push down onto anchor bolts, it tears. Lay out top and bottom plates in non pressure treated framing lumber. Plate material should be long lengths. Lay the plates out together with a square, account for window and door openings. Top plates should overlap as far apart as possible at the joints especially at the corners. After walls are stood up and attatched to the bottom plate you plumb the walls and run temp braces to hold it. If you didn't run your sheathing when the walls were stood do it now. I hate t111 as siding. Unless the building is going to have big overhangs it will constantly cycle through wet/dry and will look like shit and try to rot. The other sheathing I despise is chip board. Grabbing it, marking on it, cutting it, the sawdust, the smell, it all sucks and it has minimal strength and melts if it gets wet. Use 1/2 inch plywood for sheathing.
Use trusses or cut rafters, account for overhangs. Rafters should always stack right down on the wall studs below it, or a header. Use the steel rafter hangers with the proper screws or nails. Lay out the ridgline on the ground sheath the roof with 1/2" plywood, using plywood clips. They have a new type of roof paper that is like tyveck. Use that. Also wrap all exterior with Tyveck. Use at least 25 year shingles on the roof, or painted metal roofing with screws. Hardy board is probably the best siding. It holds paint and seems pretty durable. I'm a wood guy myself. I love wood siding. I have done all of it. Cedar shingle, clapboards, boar and batten, they all look great when you're done, but deteriorate quickly without constant maintenance, except cedar shingles which is what I would use, but they take along time to put up. Take your time to do exterior trim. You can do a good job and make it look nice. I would use vinyl soffit and brake bent aluminum for fascia even though it sucks. Good luck.
permits, prep the slab with gravel, leveling, grading. Determine plumbing breakout with conduit, drains plumbed any other slab related issues do them now. Must have plastic vapor barrier on gravel, seams taped. Run wire or rebar, form final shape to grade, pour, remembering to place anchor bolts.
Take time to run diagonals on the slab adjust for inaccuracies and snap lines to lay bottom plates. Run sill seal before running pressure treated bottom plates holding to your snap line to insure final structure is square. You will have to drill holes for the anchor bolts so it will take some time. Don't tighten the plates until you are done.Sill seal you just push down onto anchor bolts, it tears. Lay out top and bottom plates in non pressure treated framing lumber. Plate material should be long lengths. Lay the plates out together with a square, account for window and door openings. Top plates should overlap as far apart as possible at the joints especially at the corners. After walls are stood up and attatched to the bottom plate you plumb the walls and run temp braces to hold it. If you didn't run your sheathing when the walls were stood do it now. I hate t111 as siding. Unless the building is going to have big overhangs it will constantly cycle through wet/dry and will look like shit and try to rot. The other sheathing I despise is chip board. Grabbing it, marking on it, cutting it, the sawdust, the smell, it all sucks and it has minimal strength and melts if it gets wet. Use 1/2 inch plywood for sheathing.
Use trusses or cut rafters, account for overhangs. Rafters should always stack right down on the wall studs below it, or a header. Use the steel rafter hangers with the proper screws or nails. Lay out the ridgline on the ground sheath the roof with 1/2" plywood, using plywood clips. They have a new type of roof paper that is like tyveck. Use that. Also wrap all exterior with Tyveck. Use at least 25 year shingles on the roof, or painted metal roofing with screws. Hardy board is probably the best siding. It holds paint and seems pretty durable. I'm a wood guy myself. I love wood siding. I have done all of it. Cedar shingle, clapboards, boar and batten, they all look great when you're done, but deteriorate quickly without constant maintenance, except cedar shingles which is what I would use, but they take along time to put up. Take your time to do exterior trim. You can do a good job and make it look nice. I would use vinyl soffit and brake bent aluminum for fascia even though it sucks. Good luck.
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Now that you are dried in you frame any interior partitions, run your wiring and plumbing. If you are being supervised by a town official you will know you need an inspection before you cover anything up so do it now. Then insulate. Do a really good job insulating. Use spray foam for cracks as well as caulk. I would put 1/2" foil faced foam sheets on the walls and ceiling, taping with foil tape in addition to the most fiberglass I could fit in the walls. Nowadays you can take pics with your phone of key points of framing for future guidance after the walls are covered so you know where you can put hangers, shelves, hang your carbon filter etc. Cover the walls with sheetrock, tape it sand it prime and paint it white. Let the building get warm and offgas for a few days, longer if you can wait. Now you are ready to hang lights and grow. I'd go sealed room but that's it for my guidance.
Maybe grow in a tent until you are better established?
no point putting up such a large construct for just 2 months no?
oh my. thats a very poorly built shed. there are no sill plates?
was a concrete slab poured over the sill plates? im confused as to how the wall structure connects to this slab.
was a concrete slab poured over the sill plates? im confused as to how the wall structure connects to this slab.
sorry i cant really offer any advice on this thing. like i said sheds are not normally built well.
i honeslty think you would be wasting money throwing 1000 dollars worth of insulation into this thing... i would tear it down and rebuild someting exactly how you need it.
i would not bother with another slab... just break that one up, and put it on 8" sonotube piers...
id suggest buying one of the myriad of used amazon books on building a shed, and reading over those. its very easy.
if you have to go it alone, id suggest a book called "working alone". i think its out of publication but i got one for a dollar way back on amazon.
i honeslty think you would be wasting money throwing 1000 dollars worth of insulation into this thing... i would tear it down and rebuild someting exactly how you need it.
i would not bother with another slab... just break that one up, and put it on 8" sonotube piers...
id suggest buying one of the myriad of used amazon books on building a shed, and reading over those. its very easy.
if you have to go it alone, id suggest a book called "working alone". i think its out of publication but i got one for a dollar way back on amazon.
