DIY'ers come on in Shed build from scratch

[Granger2]

They only talk about sub slab assembly. Cmon. We're not talking about sub slab. Probably nothing has any value under a slab.

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]http://www.icc-es.org/Reports/pdf_fi...e=ESR-2350.pdf[/FONT] [If this link doesn't work for you, use the link in my post #59]

And even if R-16 is under ideal conditions, so are the ratings of fiberglass, etc. Done under ideal conditions to get the best rating, e.g. no humidity. Not real world.

I stand by this. Prodex is worth what it adds when installed properly. If it adds only R-9 [with only 1" air space, rather than 2.64"] as shown in the above link, for 5 mm, in addition to other insulations, it's worth the cost to me.

Again, Prodex is not bubble wrap. -granger

 

[queequeg152]

that link does not work for me. ill dig out your post when i get the time.

r 16 values are not ideal, they are outrageously over estimated.

you would probably get a third of that in the worst of real world circumstances that envelope designers design for.

yes you are 100% correct, r values are based on standardized test conditions, with a standardized temperature differential. yes if the temperature differential increases the r value increases.

however, radiant heat is not like steady state heat flux. it varies differently...in a non linear fashion from what i recall...

meaning as you heat something further and further the amount of radiant heat increases in sort of an exponential manner. yes at some point it leaves the IR spectrum and starts going visible which does not confer as much heat blah blah, but wood and metal and such does not do this at temperatures we are seeing in home insulation.

regardless.
isnt prodex like 50 cents a square? you can buy polyiso half inch boards with the shiny foil on one side for that price.

half inch poly iso... from HD or lowes best i can recall is like 12 dollars for a 4x8 board. why even bother with prodex?

 

[Granger2]

The link in my post #59 works. Nothing to dig out. Prodex Total 48 Inch Insulation: One 4 ft x 175 ft (700 sq. ft.) roll $245. Pretty much the same price. -granger

 

[Granger2]

Fixed the link. -granger

 

[queequeg152]

yea sorry ill read that link when i get a chance.

been busy slinging in new doors and trim at my moms old place.

on a related note. Anyone know how to get fiberglass out of jeans?
my good pair is totally fucked... washed them twice thus far.

 

[Hydropimp]

Well i vacuum the shed and started caulking sealing all the gaps

 

[Hydropimp]

I know its been awhile but the ball is finally rolling again.

Life and work gets in the way but I have.

Bought 2 a/c a brand new 5 ton water cooled unit and used 3 ton that i will gut out and put all new hardware inside as back up.

 

[queequeg152]

what made you go with a water cooled condenser? stealth or what?

 

[Hydropimp]

So fellas this is where i am at. I need to build another small shed next to the one you see here




if you look closely you will see a drain. That is in the concrete.

Now what i need to do is make a 5*14 shed to cover that dain.

The drain will be use for the a/c i run. it is a water cooled unit. water will come out the well feed the a/c and then to the drain.

Also i will use the drain for the grow if need be but mainly for the a/c.

My question is can i start just framing on top of the concrete slab? or do i need to make a skid?

Also i would like it to be in the same slope as the existing shed

 

[who dat is]

Subbed

 

[queequeg152]

bad idea to start framing ontop of that slab.

very bad idea.

its likely just a 2-4" deck... and its going to be far from flat.

do you have any experiance with SDS chipping hammers or those giant electric jack hammers?
Personally... i would saw cut 2x2 squares and excavate down 4 foot or so and pour 8" sonotube footings.

with a proper crawl space the drain can be relocated pretty much anywhere you want.

 

[Hydropimp]

bad idea to start framing ontop of that slab.

very bad idea.

its likely just a 2-4" deck... and its going to be far from flat.

do you have any experiance with SDS chipping hammers or those giant electric jack hammers?
Personally... i would saw cut 2x2 squares and excavate down 4 foot or so and pour 8" sonotube footings.

with a proper crawl space the drain can be relocated pretty much anywhere you want.

QQ152

Thanks for stopping in,

I have to use what i have for a crop or 2

I can't just fram everything in pressure treated wood?

Why so bad of an idea?

I don't want it to last forever.

 

[queequeg152]

pressure treated wood is for lumber exposed to the elements not for framing members.

slabs tend to move whether you can see it or not. a patio is not suited for a building because its not strong enough. it has movement joints all over... and its probably very thin and very poorly reinforced. its also going to be graded to drain... so what ever walls you build ontop of it will likely need extensive alignment adjustments via shimming etc.

lasting forever is one thing, building some shitbox that is going to be a PITA is another. perhaps just buy a prebuilt shed and run with that.

 

[iTarzan]

Are you worried at all about the well running dry?

 

[Hydropimp]

Are you worried at all about the well running dry?

Itarzan

That was a ? I had but it is 40 feet and water around theses parts are shallow.

This is how we do it around here.

So no

Everyone was telling me go down 20 I went 40.

 

[Hydropimp]

A/c will be wire to the pump and a 24v solenoid so the pump is only running when the a/c is on not 24/7

So the well will have time to recover if need be but plenty of water to use

 

[Hydropimp]

This is the new 5ton unit



And this is the 3 ton I will change all electrical part on the inside for back up

 

[Hydropimp]

This will be the side I will Build on.

Drain is under the cone


to cover the drain and me when I am working on it

 

[Hydropimp]

I will drill a couple of hoes in the slab to anchor the box

Will use this



What type of adhesive should I use to fill it in

Liquid nail, epoxy, need something commercial grade.

Anyone know how to build a nice sealed door?

 

[queequeg152]

anchor what box?

you dont need to build any door. just buy a prehung exterior insulated door. it will come with weather striping and a threshold gasket already.

regardless. id use wedge anchors to do what ever you are doing here. provided you are not close to an expansion joint or edge of some sort.
epoxy anchors are mostly used where wedge anchors cant. wedges tend to be stronger.