DIY Nutrients formulations, recipes, chemistry etc.

[asa77sol]

K from the MKP is 173g*34,4%*0,83*1000)ppm--->49400ppm

The rest K from the K2SO4:
149400ppm-(173g*34,4%*0,83*1000)=149400ppm-49400ppm=100000ppm

100000/415=241g

 

[blueberrydrumz]

K from the MKP is 173g*34,4%*0,83*1000)ppm--->49400ppm

The rest K from the K2SO4:
149400ppm-(173g*34,4%*0,83*1000)=149400ppm-49400ppm=100000ppm

100000/415=241g

haha, bigup & thx...
its so confusing with so many different recipes on the net... im talking bout TOTALY different recipes...
and different ways of calulating
but now i understand how to work it out... thx so much guys...
glad we could clear this up.. so alot of people have been using wrong recipes all along...
bigup

 

[poipu79]

the way I sees it .17 g per L formula multiplied 500 times = 87g mixed with 1 L of water supplies my version of the mkp ...I always used the original formula and assumed the label being a promised minimum means 9%ish and 18% ish

edit forgot...tryin to disolve 241 g kso4 and 173g mkp wit 1 L of water is a problem ,,,thats a 1000 x concentrate

...poipu

 

[RubeGoldberg]

Great thread! Been trying to figure this out for a while. Now it should be easy!

This is just a cirlejerk, all of these formulas are heavily devoid of nessesary micronutrients.

Not saying a person can't mix their own nutrients, but I would not recommend following most of the recipes given in this thread in ANY way whatsoever.

http://www.back-to-basics.net/efu/pdfs/Micronutrients.pdf

 

[poipu79]

what are micro nutrients ...there not talked about much but they are in here

...poipu

 

[RubeGoldberg]

what are micro nutrients ...there not talked about much but they are in here

...poipu

take a look at the .pdf i put in my last post.

The biggest selling point for nutrients is what they call the "micro pack"

essentially anybody can get a good amount of the n-p-k from your local gardening center.

HOWEVER

To grow properly you need a full range of micronutrients as well, they have to also be in the correct balance. As too much or too little in relation to another nutrient can cause the chemicals to bind to eachother and become unavailable to the plant.


Chelates are also very important for some nutrients to be uptaken, like iron for example (chelating is basically a molecule that helps the plant eat the nutrient molecule, like putting ketchup on yucky tasting food for a child to eat it)


In a nutshell though, the micronutrients are quite difficult to mix.. this is why even the shittiest nutrient companys employ at least ONE chemist.

Large multi-acre hydroponic greenhouses will often hire a guy on staff to mix their nutrients and pay him very very well.

Personally, if I were making my own nutrients, I would probably stick to organics

 

[poipu79]

just teasin ya got some thanks for the effort though

...poipu

 

[BasementBreeder]

take a look at the .pdf i put in my last post.

The biggest selling point for nutrients is what they call the "micro pack"

essentially anybody can get a good amount of the n-p-k from your local gardening center.

HOWEVER

To grow properly you need a full range of micronutrients as well, they have to also be in the correct balance. As too much or too little in relation to another nutrient can cause the chemicals to bind to eachother and become unavailable to the plant.

So? This is true for the macros as well.

Chelates are also very important for some nutrients to be uptaken, like iron for example (chelating is basically a molecule that helps the plant eat the nutrient molecule, like putting ketchup on yucky tasting food for a child to eat it)

Chelates are basically ions turned molecules. Metal ions(especially Iron) are combined with a chelate in order to prevent it from forming bonds with other ions in solution. This prevents the ion from being locked up, but doesn't help the plant absorb it

In a nutshell though, the micronutrients are quite difficult to mix.. this is why even the shittiest nutrient companys employ at least ONE chemist.

They are NOT difficult to mix. I make my own, even down to Mo. Not to mention all the premade micro packages that are available for purchase if one doesn't want to spend $40 on a lb of ammoniummolybdate

Large multi-acre hydroponic greenhouses will often hire a guy on staff to mix their nutrients and pay him very very well.

Personally, if I were making my own nutrients, I would probably stick to organics

Then this thread isn't for you

 

[BasementBreeder]

This is just a cirlejerk, all of these formulas are heavily devoid of nessesary micronutrients.

Not saying a person can't mix their own nutrients, but I would not recommend following most of the recipes given in this thread in ANY way whatsoever.

http://www.back-to-basics.net/efu/pdfs/Micronutrients.pdf

Most people don't put down the .1g/gal micro package that is needed. It's just implied.

Anyone who doesn't realize they need micros shouldn't be making they're own nutes quite yet. I think most people (correctly) assume that these formulas require micros, even if the listing doesn't mention the .1g of micro package it needs.

Many of these 'recipes' are for bloom boosters, so micronutrients aren't needed.

 

[Bluenote]

Personally, if I were making my own nutrients, I would probably stick to organics

Personally I wouldn't make assumptions about what others are mixing or not mixing into their nutrient systems without actually asking the question.

Might turn out that a blanket assumption that folks who are savvy enough to mix their own nutes aren't savvy enough to be aware of the need for micros might just be a bit in error.

They are available from Peters and other sources you know.

 

[YosemiteSam]

I think the big advantages of mixing your own are:

a) You can set the micros wherever you want regardless of what strength NPKCaMgS you are running. With bottled nutes if you lower the concentration you automatically lower the micros also. I use 0.1 STEM as my base micro and then bump iron up to 4ppm with Fe dpta and bump Zn to 3 ppm with Albion's Metalosate Zn. I do this regardless of what strength I choose to run the macros and secondaries.

b) You can dial your NH4 to NO3 ratio based on your individual water supplies alkalinity and the media you choose. Done properly this will take care of your root zone pH and allow you to grow plants as long as you want without fighting those mysterious deficiencies that tend to show up late in grows. My waters alkalinity is about 60ppm and when I use an 80/20 ratio of NO3:NH4 I end my worries about pH control. Now, I still pH my fertigation water but only to keep anything from precipitating out in solution...but anything below 6.5 works

edit...I think the pH thing is why we see so many people claim one nute works for them...is the bomb, etc...and then someone else says it sucks. That happens because one size does not fit all. Some nutes use buffers, others don't...and then it comes down to does that work with your specific water or not

 

[The Bling]

....I get 55lb bags of commercial food grade nutes they last years did plenty of runs with no micros had no issues until I started to use micros then I worked out ratios now it's poppin

 

[MrBill1969]

...
edit...I think the pH thing is why we see so many people claim one nute works for them...is the bomb, etc...and then someone else says it sucks. That happens because one size does not fit all. Some nutes use buffers, others don't...and then it comes down to does that work with your specific water or not

Boy, I really do agree with this. learning water chemistry is really important. Reminds me much of competing with .22 cal target pistols years back. The barrels are sensitive to the brand of ammunition and you have to try a bunch out to see what works best in your barrel. Keeping an open mind is important, too. We're experimentalists in the science of botany, the more we are able to park our beliefs and rely on sound observation, the better the girls seem to like it!

This thread is a good read and very deserving of a

Peace

 

[mister_terious]

diynutes.com bloom does very well, just be mindful of ppms. M_T

 

[Coco_nuts]

Does anyone have a diy recipe for dyna-gro "grow" and dyna-gro "bloom"?

I really want to mix my own salt fertiliser as i cannot get dyna-gro locally and if i can make my own that would be fantastic.

Currently using GH flora 3 part and its expensive in my corner of the world.

Thanks for any help.

CN

 

[Nifty_PoT]

^^ the formula of that is in the elemental ppm nutes thread -its a sticky .

So i have been using hydro-buddy to formulate my nutes recipes for a while now, I have found the predicted EC to always be precisely .45 higher than what it would predict. When making stock or direct addition. So i know that it gives incorrect reading for CaNo3 and probably a few other salts as from earlier post in this thread. So now im just wondering how i can go about trying to fix this issue ? obviously my formula is way off if its always .45 EC higher than what hydro-buddy predicts? anyone got any suggestions?

 

[YosemiteSam]

do people use dyna -gro/bloom in pure hydro? It sure looks like it is meant to be used in soil limed for pH.

 

[Nifty_PoT]

i believe this is the wrong thread to ask questions about dyna grow in the first place as i dont think dyna grow users would be hanging out in the DIY nutes thread hehe

 

[chameleonsc]

haha, bigup & thx...
its so confusing with so many different recipes on the net... im talking bout TOTALY different recipes...
and different ways of calulating
but now i understand how to work it out... thx so much guys...
glad we could clear this up.. so alot of people have been using wrong recipes all along...
bigup

ok ok...so now i'm totally confused...1500 concentration to make 0-9-18 at 2.5 ml/gal seems unreasonable...really?

173 g MKP
241 g Potash

in 1 L of water?

 

[PetFlora]

I found this thread a couple years ago, and it helped me immensely. However, as a personal use grower the up front cost would be more than I would use in many years.

Consequently, I have been on the look out for a quality dry mix formula. I got turned on to one on IC: I ordered a sample, have used it for 2 weeks and just ordered a pound. It is super concentrated and used for both V & B.

I wouldn't be at all surprised if he got his inspiration from this thread.

Hydroponic-Research dot com