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DIY Nutrients formulations, recipes, chemistry etc.

whodare

Active member
Veteran
Anyone notice an increase in resin and odor with higher sulfur.

I ask because I started using battery acid for ph down and that batch seemed at least anecdotally to be a funkier batch. Odor and taste particularly seemed stronger than the times before. I grew in coco before water and I know that it can contain more S than soil, but I think the sulfuric acid even surpassed the coco batches. I did a table side by side, rswc and coco, hydro hands down was stinkiest, coco had denser buds though( better rooted before flip and I could have fed the hydro stronger.)
 

avant gardener

Member
Veteran
So is KoolBloom and its damn cheap! (Waves at WhoD)

it's actually a damn sight cheaper after you take in to account that ripe more dilute.


Anyone notice an increase in resin and odor with higher sulfur.

I ask because I started using battery acid for ph down and that batch seemed at least anecdotally to be a funkier batch. Odor and taste particularly seemed stronger than the times before. I grew in coco before water and I know that it can contain more S than soil, but I think the sulfuric acid even surpassed the coco batches. I did a table side by side, rswc and coco, hydro hands down was stinkiest, coco had denser buds though( better rooted before flip and I could have fed the hydro stronger.)

i use nitric in veg and phosphoric in flower.
haven't tried h2so4 but i believe that's what's in most aquarium pH down.
curious to know how it works though.
 

whodare

Active member
Veteran
it's actually a damn sight cheaper after you take in to account that ripe more dilute.




i use nitric in veg and phosphoric in flower.
haven't tried h2so4 but i believe that's what's in most aquarium pH down.
curious to know how it works though.

I use jacks so I'm all about saving there, I'll have to look at powdered koolbloom for that late bloom boost.


I bought battery acid. 18 bucks for a gallon which is ~24-30% h2so4 which I then diluted by a third to get me down around 8-10%. Shit is still strong as hell(I use ro water, and I think h2so4 can give up both hydrogens)

Just noticed that technaflora ph down is nitric 5-10%, might have to grab some for veg stage.


(waves back to mega)
 
Y

YosemiteSam

H2SO4 will provide available sufate for your plant. It is a good choice depending on what else is in your formula

imo the Jack's/CaNO3 formula has more than enough PK for flower. If you add more you are likely to block some other cation...Mg or Ca or any of the micros...and compromise the health of your plant. Remember Ripe is a complete formula...that PK booster is not.

It is about balance first and then about EC second. Without a balanced formula it is actually detrimental to up the EC With balance you can get away with pushing the plants a little.
 
Is there any agreement on the exact make up of hammerhead and or pk1314?

ive scoured these and numerous other pages and found about 6 different recipes.

1 claiming to be nothing more than MKP and Phosphoric Acid...

i have reasonable base nutes but the bloom boosters are harder to come by.

although i do have access to most dried chem salts and dont mind a bit of diy.
 
Y

YosemiteSam

If you read the hammerhead derived from list it is just CaNO3 and MKP. You can tweak the %s of each until you arrive at ANs magic formula.

Canna PK 13-14 appears to be nothing more than mkp.

Both totally un necessary with any decent base formula.
 
thx for your quick reply, but i dont have access to 'decent' nutes. Only the base ingredients.

As im still looking for the base formula i would be much happier continuing to locate a bloom boost recipe that isnt contradictory to 5-6 other 'nothing more than' recipes.

For your perusal, here are a few other 'recipes' that i have come across;

(173g MKP + 241g K2SO4)/L=Hammerhead 0-9-18

MKP - 75.46g K2SO4 - 247.48g

MKP is 52% P2O5 or 22.69% P

22.69 * 10= 226.9

39240/ 226.9 = 173

Amounts per 1L of solution

Hammerhead PK9/18

MonoPotassium Phosphate (MKP) 78.2g
Potassium Sulphate (K2SO4) 91.8g
Distilled Water (H20) 830ml

B'Cuzz PK13/14

MonoPotassium Phosphate (MKP) 47.6g
Potassium Sulphate (K2SO4) 19g
Distilled Water (H20) 933ml

Another one posted by 'british hempire' was;
MKP and Phosphoric acid = PK1314

This doesn't seem right somehow, especially with the wildly varying weights of base salts.
Are there any scientists in the house?
 

avant gardener

Member
Veteran
i just found a place in LA that sells H&G 2 part base nutes $60 for a 20 liter jug.
figuring a 200 gallon rez, an aggressive feeding schedule, weekly nute changes, and an 8 week flower, that makes house and garden' base about $40 per run more expensive than spurr's recipe. that's pretty damn cheap.
 
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avant gardener

Member
Veteran
H2SO4 will provide available sufate for your plant. It is a good choice depending on what else is in your formula

if one were to dissolve those elemental sulfur prills that go in those burners that are supposed to treat PM, would that put available S ions in solution?
 

N-P-Kali

Active member
Great thread gentlemen. Bravo! Question.

Anyone here using injectors with DIY nutrients?

I have been for sometime. Just curious if any of you gents have tossed your reservoirs to the wind and hard piped the whole show with emitters?
 

rascally

New member
DIY Organic Nutes

DIY Organic Nutes

Hi, I'm new to this form. Been reading all the good comments on nutes.
Thought I would post my recipe. I have been growing with this for about 6 months and the results have been fantastic. It is also real cheap once you invest in the basics. I have one nute batch that has been going for 4 months with just topping off and is now reading about 1800 ppm tds.

Here it is, for 30 gallons

30 gallons dechlorinated water
30 Tbs. bat guano grow or bird guano bloom depending on plant stage
6 Tbs powdered kelp
30 drops Superthrive
6 Tbs fish meal
6 Tbs Rear Earth
6 Tbs worm castings
2 Tbs Floralicious Plus(General Hydroponics)
15 Tbs organic 5-5-5 fertilizer
15 Tbs Ancient Forrest ( General Hydroponics)
30 Tbs compost( I make my own with 100% plant matter)

I bag everything in a paint strainer bag and put it in the water. It's a little messy for the first couple days and then everything settles. Best to let it run for several days before using.

The initial cost to buy everything doesn't cost any more than buying pre made nutes and it only runs about $5.00 a batch and lasts for at least 4 months.
 

avant gardener

Member
Veteran
custom has been out of agsil for awhile now.
anyone know of any other online retailers?
or any other way to get ahold of less than a ton of potassium silicate?

thanks.
 

Ichabod Crane

Well-known member
Veteran
custom has been out of agsil for awhile now.
anyone know of any other online retailers?
or any other way to get ahold of less than a ton of potassium silicate?

thanks.

I get mine from Hydro-gardens in Colorado. But it comes with markings on the box saying this. Might be a problem in a non med state.
 

shaggyballs

Active member
Veteran
rocket fuel foliar

rocket fuel foliar

I want to make a pre-mixed foliar solution in liquid concentrate and 'ready-to-use' form.
I am hoping some of you may offer your opinion on my proposed foliar solution, what it may be lacking or what it may not need or cross talk.

Ideally I'd like to make a pre-mixed concentrate liquid.
that i could add the brassinolide to before use.


Here are is a collection of some of my questions:

a) Can everything but BAP and tiacontanol be mixed together dry?

b) Can they all be mixed together in concentrated liquid form?

c) What are 'suggested' ratios (ppm?) for each of these components?

d) Any cross talk?

e) Anything need adding or need removed?

f) When to apply and how often?

Here is my mix (testing):

benzylaminopurine (dry) .......must be disolved into a liquid
bassinolide 0.1% (dry) .........must be added to liquid just before use ....and not stored unless frozen
triacontanol (paste or liquid concentrate)
Amino Acid Complex (dry)
Fulvic Acid (dry)
Yucca Extract (dry)
Ascophyllum Nodusum Kelp (dry)
 

sunset limited

Member
Veteran
i want to mix up agsil 16 at the same strength as silica blast.

the agsil label states that .7 grams in one gallon of water yields 98ppm SiO2 or 46ppm Si.

the silica blast label states that 5 ml / 4 liters of water yields 105 ppm of silicate.

converting 4 liters to gallons is the easy part. here's my question though. that 105 ppm of silicate—does it refer to elemental Si or to SiO2? without that information, it's pretty tough to figure it. the bastards at botanicare won't reply to my emails or return my calls.

anyone out there in cyberland that can set me straight on this one?
 

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