Distinguished and Nurtured Kind

[trichrider]

i've got two tubs plugged and ready to start.
a couple gscxsssdh s1 and 8 chemdog sour diesel s1 ready to flower.
i'd like to start them same time as you...are you contemplating june 1st?
if not ... i am! lol


be well

 

[Americangrower]

I agree with DankFrank but you don't have to buy all components separately. By using Coast of maine Lobster compost you get a lightweight, dark rich soil made from lobster and crab shells, composted cow manure, sphagnum peat moss and composted bark.

COM bumper crop has A blend of lobster shells, manure compost, worm castings, kelp, peat and aged bark. Inoculated with endo and ecto mycorrhizal fungi to improve root function.

Holytone, Planttone or Tomatotone gives you Hydrolyzed feather meal, pasteurized poultry manure, Greensand, Bone meal, Alfalfa meal, sulfate of potash magnesia and elemental sulfur

at a fraction of the cost because I'm a cheap fok LOL

 

[dank.frank]

I'm not sure what you consider at a fraction of the cost - but - I prefer to know EXACTLY what is in my soil. If Espoma would tell you - what % of their mix is based on what ingredient, you'd come to find, that 80% of those mixes use a base of chicken manure - like Symphony or Harmony or similar - and then accent it with a sprinkle of this and a sprinkle of that, so it can be listed on the ingredients list. The dead give away for this, is looking at the calcium levels. The amount of calcium is FAR too low to have high amounts of the more complex/beneficial amendments they list.

I know, when I'm mixing my soils, the highest cost factor is quality earthworm castings. Next would be innoculants and beneficial organisms, followed immediately by guanos.

Everything else, is literally pennies on the dollar per batch. I know at one time, when I was factoring costs as a medical grower, using the NSPB mix, after ALL costs - including electricity - I was producing ounces for $26-33 roughly, depending on the strain. $100 an ounce to medical patients meant my production standards had to have very strict controls.

Current mix is cheaper to produce than the NSPB mix ever was, in part to being able to buy and store in a bit more bulk now. I think my current production would likely fall in the $15-18 range, if I had to guess.

I don't know what Coast of Maine costs - but from everything I've heard and understand they are becoming the east coast Fox Farm, of sorts. They seem to be putting out a good range of products. I like to see quality products for purchase. They are too far and few between. Inconsistency in such products is in part what drove me to making my own soils.



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

So, summer is in full swing. I've been doctoring things, with the focus being primarily on getting temps down. The way things are set up, the exhaust goes through the carbon filter and empties into the veg area and then recirculates into flower through the dark room louvers in the door. However, there are now two passive intakes in the veg room, that are tied into the A/C. Both intakes are filtered.

I never bothered to turn on the lights before construction. During spring, temperatures would crawl above 100 if very quickly if I closed the flowering room completely. Thus the obvious need for intakes.

Since the intakes were cut in - 2 - 12" X 12" holes, temperatures were now cooler in the flowering area with the door fully closed. This put temperatures down 18 degrees instantly. So from 114 to 96.

Filters were put (errrr, wedged) in place and the cut outs were covered with a 16" x 16" piece of plywood over them. In the center of the 16 x 16 is a 6" ducting adapter. Using some foam weather stripping and a couple of bolts and nuts, I tightened the adapter to the board, centered it over the vent and screwed it in place.

A 90 degree, 6" to whatever size floor register I have - duct piece, place upside down over the register to capture and redirect all A/C to a 6" duct.

Doing this has my temps in between 88 and 91 steady. I still need to complete this installation on the opposite side of the flowering room. Doing so, should drop the temperatures down another few degrees and get me in a temperature range that makes this next run possible.

Stems are starting to thicken up. New vertical growth from non-dominant branches as they pull themselves back towards the light after the super cropping. Time to get the screen in place while this new growth is green.

F.U.C.K. it's good to be back. Much love IC. You the best. NO....YOU!!!



dank.Frank

 

[nickman]

I'm not sure what you consider at a fraction of the cost - but - I prefer to know EXACTLY what is in my soil. If Espoma would tell you - what % of their mix is based on what ingredient, you'd come to find, that 80% of those mixes use a base of chicken manure - like Symphony or Harmony or similar - and then accent it with a sprinkle of this and a sprinkle of that, so it can be listed on the ingredients list. The dead give away for this, is looking at the calcium levels. The amount of calcium is FAR too low to have high amounts of the more complex/beneficial amendments they list.

I know, when I'm mixing my soils, the highest cost factor is quality earthworm castings. Next would be innoculants and beneficial organisms, followed immediately by guanos.

Everything else, is literally pennies on the dollar per batch. I know at one time, when I was factoring costs as a medical grower, using the NSPB mix, after ALL costs - including electricity - I was producing ounces for $26-33 roughly, depending on the strain. $100 an ounce to medical patients meant my production standards had to have very strict controls.

Current mix is cheaper to produce than the NSPB mix ever was, in part to being able to buy and store in a bit more bulk now. I think my current production would likely fall in the $15-18 range, if I had to guess.

I don't know what Coast of Maine costs - but from everything I've heard and understand they are becoming the east coast Fox Farm, of sorts. They seem to be putting out a good range of products. I like to see quality products for purchase. They are too far and few between. Inconsistency in such products is in part what drove me to making my own soils.



dank.Frank

I’ve used coast of Maine Lobster Compost a few times. I liked it. It even came with beneficial HM mites in it once. Lol. It runs about 10$ for a one cubic foot bag.
This last grow I grabbed a bag of Malibu Compost Bu’s blend... it’s about twice the price of the Lobster Compost. So far so good. We’ll see if it’s worth the extra 10 bucks...!!!...


That’s good info to know about Espoma. Figures, companies are always trying to take the cheapest route they can.


I was looking on the buildasoil site and they have some really nice worm castings on their site. I just wonder if they’re worth the money to be shipped and all that...!!!...

 

[dank.frank]

@nickman - one of these days I'll get smart and just start some worm beds. Put it on the list.

I should mention, those temps were during the day, not at night time, when the lights will actually be running for flower. I saw my coolest lights off temps yet in this setup - 64.

Things are looking good. A couple more days and we'll flip. Doesn't look like I'll get to start on June 1st.

I think the plants are ready to rock and roll, but I want the canopy to be a bit more filled in first.



dank.Frank

 

[dank.frank]

Just a couple pictures to show growth and canopy filling in. The secondary growth that shot up after the dominant branches were super cropped are now super cropped as well. This is creating a rather dense canopy at right about 18". I've stripped some lower leafs and pulled some larger fans. Cut out some thinner branches that won't amount to anything.

You can see the difference in growth profile between the #2 on the right and the #1 on the left. The left side just isn't filling in as quickly. She does grow a bit slower and a bit more elongated between internodes.

The Sis x PK is growing perfectly. Love the structure she is giving. Her smell hasn't increased at all under bigger lights. Still a softer smelling slightly sweeter smelling chem vibe to her. Grows like a slower, slightly more compact OG.

I'll be working on the trellis today.



dank.Frank

 

[moses wellfleet]

Will you remove all growth below the trellis?

 

[DoubleTripleOG]

Insulated ductwork for hot air does help. I know from experience using both non and insulated duct work.

 

[Prodigygrower]

Lookin thick in there broski! Can’t wait to see how this run goes much respect!

 

[chuckyoufarley]

looking great DF thats gonna be a lot of nuggage for sure

 

[dank.frank]

@Moses - I expect I'll have too. By the time they stretch, anything below, even some above the first screen, will be removed. I'm going to really try to keep things in the sweet spot of these lights. I also know how far I can keep these lamps from the tops of the plants this round as well to prevent those gaps in between the internodes that happened when I moved lights too far away too fast and the plants stretched for the light.

This round should be much better. Soil seems okay. I see a bit of tip burn here and there but for the most part, they seem to be on track. I mention this to you, because you found an adaptation for reamending the mineral component, which I may have to adapt at some point if I don't like the behavior I'm seeing. However, I'm reamending with a full recipe intended to make 1.5 cu ft not 9 cu ft, which is what is in the soil bed. However, since I'm just adding back each time, according to the standard lbs/acre for the same 10 sq ft space, in according with standard agricultural practice, then perhaps, I should only be re-amending with the liming agents once a year, in the fall, so to speak.

I'll have to figure it out as the thread progresses. Just like everyone else. Looking forward to seeing you get something else going. Hate you lost your other thread.

@DTOG - Hey. I've got a very short length of standard ducting going from the 6" Vortex to a 50# can filter that is hung in the veg area - maybe...4'. I imagine I could improve the quality of the ducting, on both intakes and the exhaust and shave off a few more degrees. Good advice. Thanks.

@Prodigy - Thanks! I'm a bit nervous, but keeping my fingers crossed. I'm hoping I can make this #2 shine. Abja deserves some fire pics of these genes grown properly.

@Chucky - Thanks, F.A.M. - I'm hoping I don't run into any mystery problems over here after reading your last couple of posts. You'll get it turned around. You always do.

I have to have this room in shape for an IC 2020 cup run. One can dream, right?



dank.Frank

 

[Guest]

This round should be much better. Soil seems okay. I see a bit of tip burn here and there but for the most part, they seem to be on track. I mention this to you, because you found an adaptation for reamending the mineral component, which I may have to adapt at some point if I don't like the behavior I'm seeing. However, I'm reamending with a full recipe intended to make 1.5 cu ft not 9 cu ft, which is what is in the soil bed. However, since I'm just adding back each time, according to the standard lbs/acre for the same 10 sq ft space, in according with standard agricultural practice, then perhaps, I should only be re-amending with the liming agents once a year, in the fall, so to speak.

dank.Frank

Yo Frank where can i find the info pertaining to re-amending?

I have to have this room in shape for an IC 2020 cup run. One can dream, right?

dank.Frank

Fk a dream, go hard son.

 

[dank.frank]

When I started this thread, I stated one of the goals was to establish an NPK profile as a set parameter. I went with 740-1110-945 after much consideration.

This is important because everyone started screaming "soil test" - but a soil test is useless if you don't know how to utilize the information they contain. The tests tell you to apply nutrients in pounds per acre, to reach a desired concentration of nutrients across a given area, which isn't really useful at all when you only have a few gallons of soil you are messing with in the first place. Not only that, if you don't know what the desired parameters are, looking at numbers does zero to help.

Since I was doing a soil bed, I wanted to be able to re-amend the soil, looking at it not as 58 gallons of soil, but instead, as 10 sq ft of field space. The goal being, to successfully apply amendments to the bed, the same way you would any other traditional row crop, using the same metric, lbs/acre.

The chart shows weight of the amendments, necessary to achieve a NPK profile of 740-1110-945 for a 10 sq ft space - which is what is being used in a 1.5 cu ft soil mix as well.

A field will be measured at standard plow depth, called a furrow slice. That depth is 6.7". So when trying to measure soil volume - length x width x depth - across a given area - length x width - you need a 3rd input - which is where the furrow slice comes in as a standard.

My soil bed, is roughly 10 sq ft. So, cubic inches - 50" x 26" x 6.7" = 8,710 cubic inches

Cubic inches to dry gallons - multiply by 0.0037 = roughly 32 gallons.

The Phillthy base mix was roughly 30 gallons when each batch was mixed. To that he put 1 bag of the NSPB mix. See where we are going here...

So, when developing the new mix, I wanted to keep in line with how I had always grown. I wanted re-amending to be the same as mixing a new batch of soil, essentially. Zero need to alter the recipe.

So, I re-amended the bed, with the exact same recipe I'd have used if I was mixing a new batch of 1.5 cu ft soil ~ 9.75 gallons more or less, even though the soil bed has 58+ gallons in it. I know there are nutrients remaining in the soil from the prior round, I'm just recharging it for the current crop cycle.

I'll get soil tests eventually and we'll approach re-amending from a slightly different direction.



dank.Frank

 

[nickman]

Good info Frank. Hey I was just wondering what kinda door u have for the flower room? How do u keep the light from the veg room from getting into the flower room...?...

I’m just curious.

 

[dank.frank]

It's just framed using 1 x 2 and then covered with 1/4" plywood. Has two dark room louvers in place for air exchange. I never put the hinges on it, but otherwise, it's very snug fit and I just lift it in place or remove it as needed.

dank.Frank

 

[nickman]

No light gets through the cracks?

 

[dank.frank]

Nope. I still want to put a small lip around the frame of the doorway. Just like a 1/2" strip of wood all the way around. That would 1000% ensure there was no possibility of light getting though, but as it is, it's very tight. I have to use my palm to lightly beat it into place.

If I turn off the veg lights, you can see a faint glow if you move your head back and forth, but there are no streams of light even detectable with smoke. All in all, I'm fairly comfortable with the setup as is, knowing I'm not going to face any issues due to light leaks.

I'll get a couple new timers to trigger things so I don't have to worry about doing a manual lights on/off this round too. That will be an understated luxury.



dank.Frank

 

[nickman]

Nope. I still want to put a small lip around the frame of the doorway. Just like a 1/2" strip of wood all the way around. That would 1000% ensure there was no possibility of light getting though, but as it is, it's very tight. I have to use my palm to lightly beat it into place.

If I turn off the veg lights, you can see a faint glow if you move your head back and forth, but there are no streams of light even detectable with smoke. All in all, I'm fairly comfortable with the setup as is, knowing I'm not going to face any issues due to light leaks.

I'll get a couple new timers to trigger things so I don't have to worry about doing a manual lights on/off this round too. That will be an understated luxury.



dank.Frank

Oh shit, you’ve been doing that shit manually...!!!... I’d definitely have messed that up...


I’m probably gonna throw that Triple Nova into flower next week after i take down the room with the Raindance’s...
She’s gonna be a beast... I’ve been stretching her out and tying her to the walls... I just wish she wasn’t so tall allready, I’d throw a net over her...
I can’t wait to flower her, when I rub her legs it smells like some kinda chemical cleaner... I really like it...!!!...

I was actually gonna buy another pack of the Triple Nova but they were sold out... they’re supposed to be having a new seed drop real soon...
Peace bro.

 

[dank.frank]

Oh. I certainly messed it up more than once. That's why I said the balls on every plant were growers error. Leave the door off. Sleep in and give 15 hours of light 3x in one week. Ugh. Yeah, the fact the last round did as well as they did is a testament to the genetics.

I said at one point I know everything these plants have been through so I know for sure they could have been better. This round they will shine. As long as the nutrients are right. May not be. We'll see. I think I'll be able to adjust on the fly if I have to.

No worries about the Triple Nova. That's easy. You've got several plants I'm interested in watching flower out right now. That SSSDH x Snowman #2. The BAS #3 and #6. The Triple Nova. It's going to be a great show.



dank.Frank