Defoliation: Hi-Yield Technique?

[Jbonez]

To bad you didn't have same plant side by side cause with the lost time from stress you would probably have 50 more shoots just from super cropping and or fimming picture 410 is one plant all from cropping no stress but amazing growth

I dont know, we will see what happens after I bloom her, I will say that supercropping and topping stunt the plant worse, we dont top in vert for this reason, and the natural shape of the plant is what we want, confusing as my plants are trained, clearly but that is how I got them, I only want natural shaped plants in my grows. Essentially this is causing what is already developed to create more sites, keep in mind, these sites will become shoots in bloom. What do you think? I still wouldnt waste my time doing this with overhead lighting, but I think Vert may actually benefit more from this method.

Also, If I flip em, and they dont "stretch" like they should, rather the little sites stretch, then I can see how that would kinda suck too, but I just wont know till this is bloomed out and have more objective data.. No worries, the entire thing will be documented here, those with the d cut will know if Im gaining or not..

 

[siftedunity]

I dont know, we will see what happens after I bloom her, I will say that supercropping and topping stunt the plant worse, essentially this is causing what is already developed to create more sites, keep in mind, these sites will become shoots in bloom. What do you think? I still wouldnt waste my time doing this with overhead lighting, but I think Vert may actually benefit more from this method.

Also, If I flip em, and they dont "stretch" like they should, rather the little sites stretch, then I can see how that would kinda suck too, but I just wont know till this is bloomed out and have more objective data.. No worries, the entire thing will be documented here, those with the d cut will know if Im gaining or not..

i think its decent of you to test out the theory of defo so respect for that.

the part which i have trouble understanding is why anyone would need to defoliate to get the plants to shoot out from the main stem- when there are other stress free ways of getting the same result.

i get the light penetration thing, i can understand it but leaves will still produce food with very little light so i just dont agree with it. even with some of the fantastic feats growing vertical i have doubts that it will support the bigger yields you can push out with a vert setup.

it just seems backwards to me. add more lighting to increase productivity then chop off more leaves.

tbh i guess you really would need to do a side by side with say 10 plants per method for a conclusive result. but eitherway im interested to see what happens with your experiment.

btw, are you growing vertical with one light or more?

 

[Jbonez]

SU, this is where I am going to be blooming in a day or so 2 600w one on each side.. Its not as if I dont have side by side capability, just plant availability rather.. Ill put defol to sleep or give it the credit it deserves, we shall see.

 

[DrFever]

I dont know, we will see what happens after I bloom her, I will say that supercropping and topping stunt the plant worse, we dont top in vert for this reason, and the natural shape of the plant is what we want, confusing as my plants are trained, clearly but that is how I got them, I only want natural shaped plants in my grows. Essentially this is causing what is already developed to create more sites, keep in mind, these sites will become shoots in bloom. What do you think? I still wouldnt waste my time doing this with overhead lighting, but I think Vert may actually benefit more from this method.

Also, If I flip em, and they dont "stretch" like they should, rather the little sites stretch, then I can see how that would kinda suck too, but I just wont know till this is bloomed out and have more objective data.. No worries, the entire thing will be documented here, those with the d cut will know if Im gaining or not..

i have never had slow or stunted growth from cropping as for topping i am a firm believer of not doing that technique , Why take away a bud site to create 3 - 6 colas when super cropping you can get 100's of bud sites if properly trained

 

[Jbonez]

i have never had slow or stunted growth from cropping as for topping i am a firm believer of not doing that technique , Why take away a bud site to create 3 - 6 colas when super cropping you can get 100's of bud sites if properly trained

I agree, I guess my theory is somehow this merely trans-locates the growth in a "sense", I dont see it as objectively worse than cutting of the head of a main shoot or pinching the stem so that is need repair itself.. If that is what is being insinuated, I do not agree, I didnt say the plant stopped growing for good mind you..

Ill get a side by side in, I have the ability and a couple cuts of the same thing of a few of my gals... Just for now all I got is this one that Im willing to experiment with...

Regardless of will it work, this is still a form of training and as such, any grower with as much veg time as he wants will certainly benefit simply because of the even growth pattern, which if just let go would have a staggered leaf pattern that would at least let in a little more light.. Still I think Vert is really going to benefit from this, I veg for 2 months while I am blooming and I dont keep moms..

 

[whodare]

I guess what I've been trying to get across this whole thread is

veg big yeild big...

Use 50watts per square foot for veg and 60-70 in flower.

Or more, 100 wsqft is great if you can keep the environment tight.

All the benefits of defoliation will be achieved without the stunted growth...

But everyone is this thread likes to tell me what I've done and haven't so I guess i dont know what I'm talking about...

 

[Jbonez]

I guess what I've been trying to get across this whole thread is

veg big yeild big...

Use 50watts per square foot for veg and 60-70 in flower.

Or more, 100 wsqft is great if you can keep the environment tight.

All the benefits of defoliation will be achieved without the stunted growth...

But everyone is this thread likes to tell me what I've done and haven't so I guess i dont know what I'm talking about...

Dude I just want you to know how much I enjoy your posts.

Fucking love your logic bro...

Im at 75w per sq ft btw, should be pretty decent.. I dont know.. I dont really care, if anything this allows me to control the plants height before bloom, allowing me to keep em more uniform, who knows.. I wasnt dealing with larf before, so maybe ill get some tight nugs lol.... Oh and this is with a t8 veg light bro.. like 20w per sq foot in veg...

 

[whodare]

Absolutely, you can use this tek in low light mom rooms to keep them branchy and in stasis.

For preveg flower though, damn near as close wsqft wise as I can get to the flower room.

 

[St3ve]

..veg big yeild big......

This technique is for those who can't veg big, but still want to yield big.


lol whodare.. you're the same as DrFever and all the other people that post in this thread who think they know everything. No wonder the OP decided to stop posting in his own thread.
If you can't make this technique work then no prob. I can make it work well though.. in ADDITION to all the other things you just mentioned. Exactly as JBones has stated, it creates more budsites in a smaller space. Who cares how BIG they can get in veg if your goal is to keep them small? The OP, myself, and many other people have a limited space to grow in and this is a way to maximize it. I have a 5x10' room to flower in. THats it. If I went pro and had a warehouse, I would not use this technique. For me though, I can get more budsites and more final yield using this.

You guys keep whining about stunted growth.. who cares about slower veg? I have to wait 8-9 weeks while my girls are flowering. Do you know how big plants get in 8 weeks? Do you think that might be a tad large for my space? This essentially takes that same huge plant that is vegged for 8 weeks, and just shrinks it. I'm saying all the budsites and branches that filled out on the untouched plant but compacted and stout.

Anyway though I'm done too. I'm tired of seeing the same types of things.. "no you can't" this and "science says no" that. I actually do it.. I do it every run and it works. Deal with it. You can't make it work? PM me for help and I'll be happy to help you, but don't complain saying that it doesn't work because you failed at it.

Whomever posted that pic of "beating a dead horse" was so spot on. Have fun..

 

[Jbonez]

I dont want to get involved in semantics, I just wanna see if there is any merit to this, and so far imo, and for vertical type grows, I see this as a different way of training plants to yield more. I can be very wrong here, I simply have to see..

Here is a Katsu bubba, now i got her in the worst shape you can imagine so bringing her back required a defoliating just to remove the necrotic growth, I havent kept doing it since then and now she looks good, but notice the lower sites similar behavior to the chemD, I just want this to be something that works, because its a very simple way of training plants.. Keep in mind plywood isnt exactly the most reflective surface in the game, lol.... Got some orca to throw in their soon enough...

 

[DrFever]

This technique is for those who can't veg big, but still want to yield big.


lol whodare.. you're the same as DrFever and all the other people that post in this thread who think they know everything. No wonder the OP decided to stop posting in his own thread.
If you can't make this technique work then no prob. I can make it work well though.. in ADDITION to all the other things you just mentioned. Exactly as JBones has stated, it creates more budsites in a smaller space. Who cares how BIG they can get in veg if your goal is to keep them small? The OP, myself, and many other people have a limited space to grow in and this is a way to maximize it. I have a 5x10' room to flower in. THats it. If I went pro and had a warehouse, I would not use this technique. For me though, I can get more budsites and more final yield using this.

You guys keep whining about stunted growth.. who cares about slower veg? I have to wait 8-9 weeks while my girls are flowering. Do you know how big plants get in 8 weeks? Do you think that might be a tad large for my space? This essentially takes that same huge plant that is vegged for 8 weeks, and just shrinks it. I'm saying all the budsites and branches that filled out on the untouched plant but compacted and stout.

Anyway though I'm done too. I'm tired of seeing the same types of things.. "no you can't" this and "science says no" that. I actually do it.. I do it every run and it works. Deal with it. You can't make it work? PM me for help and I'll be happy to help you, but don't complain saying that it doesn't work because you failed at it.

Whomever posted that pic of "beating a dead horse" was so spot on. Have fun..

out of curiosity what are you actually yielding per plant ????? here is a idea instead of defoiling 0 veg time 72 clones flipped to 12 / 12 i will be awaiting results once done hahahaha also st3ve i will make sure to post trimming of 1 plant in this gig??? as you mention more bud sites there are about 670 bud sites there but anyways I'll make sure to post dry yields per plant
you mention you need to wait 8 - 9 weeks so got nothing better to do, but stick your plant in the corner and pick at it try cloneing later like week into flower , this way 3 - 4 weeks later you got a rooted clone and in another 3 - 4 weeks when your so called plants are done you got healthy nice sized plants ready to flip ?? i think you need to work on that rather then wait 9 weeks in between , and hack some a plant to death almost
That's being efficient me day 21 flower this thursday going into week 2 veg in veg room by the time my plants are done i got girls ready to flip and give me huge yields

one thing is skinning your plants in veg another is in flower Take it from experience and a professional grower that is not the way to do it nuff said please note that even my leafs i cut in original cuttings are green i won't lose them that my friend is knowing WTF your doing

 

[iampolluted]

yield per plant is irrelevant. not all grow rooms are the same, nor are strains or conditions, so comparing individual yields is apples to oranges.

 

[siftedunity]

yield per plant is irrelevant. not all grow rooms are the same, not are strains or conditions, so comparing individual yields is apples to oranges.

it is when your trying to prove to everyone that you yield more.

 

[siftedunity]

tbh im pretty sure in thousands of years of agriculture, farmers of crops would use this method if it worked. i mean the possiblities are endless for crops. but hey im just hard to convince- il see what happens in this thread.

 

[iampolluted]

if grower A grows in a 10x5 room in a sog, and grower B grows in a 8x12 using a scrog, the differences in yield could be staggering, or close. it's useless to compare per plant yields when someone is growing a tree, or 100 donkey dicks. it's irrelevant!

it's about PERSONAL yield in relation to grows not utilizing this method, and if it'd increase. not understanding this means you don't even get the entire point of the argument. sorry...but it's true.

 

[willyweed]

big reps to the guys that figured this one out and many thanks for the extra% works for me because i am limited on light and space and can get more in .thankyou for the advice

 

[St3ve]

out of curiosity what are you actually yielding per plant ????? here is a idea instead of defoiling 0 veg time 72 clones flipped to 12 / 12 i will be awaiting results once done hahahaha also st3ve i will make sure to post trimming of 1 plant in this gig??? as you mention more bud sites there are about 670 bud sites there but anyways I'll make sure to post dry yields per plant
you mention you need to wait 8 - 9 weeks so got nothing better to do, but stick your plant in the corner and pick at it try cloneing later like week into flower , this way 3 - 4 weeks later you got a rooted clone and in another 3 - 4 weeks when your so called plants are done you got healthy nice sized plants ready to flip ?? i think you need to work on that rather then wait 9 weeks in between , and hack some a plant to death almost
That's being efficient me day 21 flower this thursday going into week 2 veg in veg room by the time my plants are done i got girls ready to flip and give me huge yields

one thing is skinning your plants in veg another is in flower Take it from experience and a professional grower that is not the way to do it nuff said please note that even my leafs i cut in original cuttings are green i won't lose them that my friend is knowing WTF your doing

Once again my friend, you missed the point... as you have been every post. I don't know if you're intentionally being a know-it-all to impress us internet folk, but I hope you're not as close minded in your business as you are here. Its sad really..

 

[St3ve]

tbh im pretty sure in thousands of years of agriculture, farmers of crops would use this method if it worked. i mean the possiblities are endless for crops. but hey im just hard to convince- il see what happens in this thread.

I'm glad not all people think this way or we would have no innovation. Thanks for joining our discussion.

/eyeroll

 

[Iffy-Caradoc]

Read a nice article in Soft Secrets recently & as it's relevant, I thought I'd share:

The genetic code determines the potential that an organism has to grow. The environment determines how that potential is acted upon.
Think of the genetic code as a set of plans & alternative plans that directs the plant's life processes. It holds the information that the plant needs to grow. For instance, if the plant is shaded it senses the lack of light and produces hormones (gibberellins) that induce the stem to grow taller so it can reach the light.
The potential of a plant to produce THC and terpines is affected tremendously by the environment. First, total production of cannabinoids is dependant on growth since a large plant produces more THC than a small one even if they are of equal potency. Growing a large healthy plant utilizing intense light and plentiful fertilizers increases total THC production.
Plants grown under intense light produce a higher percentage of THC than those grown under dimmer lights. Not only do high intensity lights increase growth but also potency! Also, in high quality plants the percentage of THC also increases as the amount of UV-B light increases.
The nutrients also affect the quality of the high. In an experiment (soft secrets) of fertilizers in 2000, clones produced VASTLY different quantities of bud depending on the fertilizer used. The buds looked very different too and each produced subtly different odours & flavours.

 

[siftedunity]

I'm glad not all people think this way or we would have no innovation. Thanks for joining our discussion.

/eyeroll

you may be a little slow but ive been posting on this thread for a while now.

my statement is against innovation? please point out how. the thing is the people arguing for defo here are uneducated much like yourself and polluted. which is doing fuck all for your cause, let some experienced growers speak and step aside.

btw you got any pics to back up your stories yet?