Thanks Waxy! I was going to go with he thicker foam sealer, but went with the rubber ones cause they're more expensive (thinking that they would seal better). I'm assuming that your door has hinges and its opening towards the grow? Mine is altered where my door is on the outside with handles and closed tight with deadbolts. I did it this way so I can use max space in the grow room and the door wouldn't run into any plants when I open it, but maybe that's the downfall of the design. I'll try the thicker foam sealer and if it doesn't work I'm gonna have to put the door on the inside like a traditionalot door. Thanks again!!!
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Coco Tree's
- Thread starter DJM
- Start date
Thanks Waxy! I was going to go with he thicker foam sealer, but went with the rubber ones cause they're more expensive (thinking that they would seal better). I'm assuming that your door has hinges and its opening towards the grow? Mine is altered where my door is on the outside with handles and closed tight with deadbolts. I did it this way so I can use max space in the grow room and the door wouldn't run into any plants when I open it, but maybe that's the downfall of the design. I'll try the thicker foam sealer and if it doesn't work I'm gonna have to put the door on the inside like a traditionalot door. Thanks again!!!
RedBeardy5
Active member
DJM- I saw you used the green broz dry trimmer. You said you liked it, but I was wondering about the humidity of the bud. I noticed on greenbroz website they said to wait until the bud is about 10% humidity. But I like my bud to keep curing for about 2 months. Im curious do you cure the bud then dry and trim the bud?
When having sealing issue, you want to have positive air pressure in the room. More air coming in than going out. This pressure will prevent things from getting sucked in tomyour growroom through the cracks. It will also reveal where cracks are if your aiming for a perfect seal.
I have positive and negative pressure due to my fans being plugged into my autopilot, 6" fan kicks on to cool the room causing positive pressure and 10" turns on to dehumidify the room causing negative pressure. I'm still tweaking the door and I'm sure I'll get it 100% sealed. If it comes down to it I might have to get another 6" fan with a filter and hang it in the hallway to scrub the air if smell escapes.
I have another problem now though. I have almost one room complete and I'm loving the results of VPD, the growth is so explosive and my stalks are bigger then ever(wide as my thumb) with just a three week veg after being transferred from beer cup. I noticed a lot of condensation on the walls behind my reflectix in one corner. The wall is also a little cold when touched. How would you guys resolve this issue? I was thinking to rip the reflectix off, paint on some killz and then put on some semi white paint just to avoid it from molding. Or apply 1-2 layers of 1" foam panels for some insulation then some plywood to cover the panels after that. I don't want to fuck up this house by moulding it up and construction on my other two rooms is at a halt until I figure this out. The house in general has a condensation issue though, the stairs that lead down to the basement has a wall that has condensation on it as well and this is a non growing part of the house. I'm so stressed right now!!
Get your air moving better back there too.
There`s a thread in hydro section by Pico on "how to make a PVC dripper manifold " that EVERY grower aspiring to production runs should store in their bag of tricks....
Never been a better setup than loopfield manifolds for equal flow AND pressure distributed to each feedsite....
I used 1/4" open end driptubing hooked to basket stakes that sprayed 360 degrees around the smartpots to maintain juice spread to prevent dry pockets in the medium and cause residual salt buildup....
As insurance on light leaks with entry doors , you can use peel and stick Velcro tape and run it above , around , and on the floor , then use a pc of thick mil black plastic to completely seal around the door that light and air`s seeping out of ....
You can get a peel and stick "tarp zipper" for the plastic for easier entry and exit into the grow area , but just remember to inspect shit from time to time cuz nothing is permanent when it comes to grow ops....it`s always somethin to fuck with till dialage occurs....and ....
More airflow and insulation if needed to prevent condensation that causes airborn nasties....Dehuey`s if necessary D2G , but that zaps your RH , so dialage takes time....you`ll get there bro....
Just tryin to help DJM.....sorry bout the troll issue earlier I got caught up in.....anyways....
Good luck and ....
Peace.....DHF....
....
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That might be my problem cause I had to return an oscillating fan that blows air to that side of the room cause it was making too much noise. I'll go grab another today, but what to do with the condensation with the rest of the house? I walked around this morning and one of my windows in a spare bedroom that I don't use had so much condensation dripping from the Windows that it was frozen like an icicle on the bottom where the blinds rest. I'm got so paranoid about this condensation thing that I decided to run the intake and exhaust 24/7 last night to hopefully dry things up. When I went into the room this morning my thermometer read 85 degrees with 50% RH but the autopilot sensor is reading 75 degrees with 60% RH. So something isn't right.
I hope so DHF! Got such a headache setting up this new crib.
E
el boyo
you drying in the grow room there waxy? how that work out?
Student Of Life
Member
You referring to the licensee crap? I've been trying to figure this out. Thought licenses weren't getting authorized until Sept of next year.
Bwanabud
Active member
Either way you end up dirty, the laws are BS .... and even when "legal" are BS...have a name like Phillip Morris, then no problem
hey man, I know you will probably have a lot of questions to reply to when you return, hopefully you have the time to answer 2 I have.
you are using these high temps with co2 correct? so if you were not, an or those of us who don't run with co2, would you use lower temps? since those seem very high at some points.
secondly, what volume of water do you give the plants per feed when multifeeding? do you base it on pot size so for example a qtr of the volume per watering or what?
thanks djm, and happy Christmas to you
The blueprint timers are working perfectly....they have a photo cell you can turn on and off and have a couple other nice functions....but they were about 60 bucks.
I bought a couple more, off amazon, that i saw recommend by Dansbuds in another thread. I think they were ten bucks apiece...8 cycles a day, same 15amp load. The thing I really like is that the cycles can be different durations.....I can feed longer at lights on or just a little before lights out if they need it. They are more flexible and way cheaper.
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
I still like the drt1's. Digital, to the second accuracy. But I still use my cheap dial ones too.
Siftedunity, I run those temps without co2. I do have fresh air though, and use a lung room to exchange air. But it works perfect for me. Just make sure u taper down the temps like djm shows, or I get heat stress and reduced terpenes if the heat stays too high the last half of flower.
I base my volume of water on dialing in to a small amount of runoff. Those volumes change for me during the different plant phases. As djm does, I use wet dry cycles to get the plants to fill in the pot with roots. After that, I find the point of minimal runoff and feed that much. When the plant reaches peak ripening, they ususally stop drinking as much and I dial back the volume a bit to minimal runoff again. Hope that helps. Maybe djm will pop in with a different answer. gl
Siftedunity, I run those temps without co2. I do have fresh air though, and use a lung room to exchange air. But it works perfect for me. Just make sure u taper down the temps like djm shows, or I get heat stress and reduced terpenes if the heat stays too high the last half of flower.
I base my volume of water on dialing in to a small amount of runoff. Those volumes change for me during the different plant phases. As djm does, I use wet dry cycles to get the plants to fill in the pot with roots. After that, I find the point of minimal runoff and feed that much. When the plant reaches peak ripening, they ususally stop drinking as much and I dial back the volume a bit to minimal runoff again. Hope that helps. Maybe djm will pop in with a different answer. gl
Great thread DJM, finally someone is breaking some canna myths on a public forum.
You're one of the few people that share without wanting anything back.
Thank you and congratulations for the person you are. I will send you positive energy.
I have some questions that could help me and other members.
I know that you use dry-wet cycles until rootbound and then start multifeeding per day with minimal runoff.
If you increase the air filled porosity to around 45-50% you can start daily multifeed on the first feed, the growth rates between the plants in wet/dry vs multifeed is totally different.
When i in grow coco coir the plants feeding 3x or more a day get rootbound almost in half the time compared to wet/dry.
There is any reason you do it? I would only used wet/dry cycles if I want to slow down growth rate.
I have spend a few year studying and testing plant nutrition and I saw that there is a variable that you underestimate.
The ratios used on a a+b formula or 6/9 if they satisfy the coco cation exchange capacity are completely safe and a lot of different genetics doesn't show any sign of deficiency but that's totally different from following the plant metabolism and adapt it to each phase.
Do you just do it because off the low maintenance and stable efficiency or do you don't see considerable improvements to change your nutritional schedule?
Wish you all the good for the next year and merry Christmas to all members.
You're one of the few people that share without wanting anything back.
Thank you and congratulations for the person you are. I will send you positive energy.
I have some questions that could help me and other members.
I know that you use dry-wet cycles until rootbound and then start multifeeding per day with minimal runoff.
If you increase the air filled porosity to around 45-50% you can start daily multifeed on the first feed, the growth rates between the plants in wet/dry vs multifeed is totally different.
When i in grow coco coir the plants feeding 3x or more a day get rootbound almost in half the time compared to wet/dry.
There is any reason you do it? I would only used wet/dry cycles if I want to slow down growth rate.
I have spend a few year studying and testing plant nutrition and I saw that there is a variable that you underestimate.
The ratios used on a a+b formula or 6/9 if they satisfy the coco cation exchange capacity are completely safe and a lot of different genetics doesn't show any sign of deficiency but that's totally different from following the plant metabolism and adapt it to each phase.
Do you just do it because off the low maintenance and stable efficiency or do you don't see considerable improvements to change your nutritional schedule?
Wish you all the good for the next year and merry Christmas to all members.
I used their beta model that came with 2 adjustable blades. That worked very well with very dense strains, but everything else got beat up. I recently tried their new model and turned it off after a run . They suck now imo and can't be adjusted like before. I won't be using it again. The trim pal is FAR superior and almost self cleaning blades . Greenbroz is junked up after half a pound and needs to be scraped to work well after. Not recommended. If you need a machine get a tripal.l . I've just decided to hand trim everything and designed my rooms smaller and perpetually staggered so the work and harvest is more manageable , consistent and spread out
To answer your question however I hang dry for 14 days , pluck fans, destem, then put in trimmer when I used them. The way I dry slow and with leaves on , it semi cures on the branch. So already a stable moisture level with leaves brittle but flowers still spongy . That's how it works the best in machines . You can destem into bins to cure and then burp them down to the moisture you want before trim . That's what I do so things begin to cure until I get around to each bin
Smart move I'll be converting several rooms for oysters this summer. And micros by fall hopefully depending on demand. Doing the distribution foot work now. Nice to be able to RE use tons of my indoor gear. It's funny how much easier it is to operate in the food industry than the herb industry. Especially in the NE. Your room looks good! stay safe out there
