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Coco Tree's

subsonikz

Member
they don't need to be the same level day and night, in fact I think that's a bad thing for many reasons...you just don't want them more than 10 degrees lower during night...I like to keep them within that range..having too high of temps and humidity at night will cause flowers to run looser than if you drop it..atleast with me as I run my rooms hot


thank you
 

EastCoast710

Well-known member
Veteran
thanks, I prefer a 1-4 ratio of lights for my veg-flower size...so i use 4kw to feed 16kw, or 6kw to feed 24 kw..but this is only to have a max of two weeks preveg after harvest in the main room before flowering again...you can get away with far less veg if you don't mind doing a longer preveg between cycles....for 6000 watts, youd want 1500, but 1000 on a light mover covering a 5x10 area would be enough, so I think youll be fine with that

well id love to do 2 1000s for veg.. but .. I don't have the extra power in this house.. since my flower runs at night.. I can maybe use a flip flop.. and have 2 1000s in veg on the light mover.. and just have 1 only on for 12 hours.. on the flip.. and the other 1000w. on for 18/6

I got another year.. before my family member is buying a duplex ill live on one side him on the other.. and the basement we will have a shared laundry area.. and the rest will be for our Legal grow
 

Zarezhu

Member
Hey! Wonderful source of information here, thanks for your contributions!

Just one question: Your preferred temps (85ish), is that canopy/leaf temp measured with an IR gun? or is it general room temp?

I ask this because I've been measuring my leaf temps, and while the room temp is reading at 86 or 87 (sentinel chhc4 controller), the leaf temp is from 78-82.
 

Catatafish

Active member
Veteran
Probably not the right spot for this but i'll ask anyways :) ....

What emissivity setting do you guys use on the IR guns when shooting leaf temps?
 

down2grow

Member
I personally only like quest dehueys...I run a dual 155 quest...I never run it lights on ever, only lights out, and it prevents me from having to run a heater during lights out in the winter due to the heat it puts off....the thing with quests is they are more expensive but far more energy efficient in their power to dehumidification ratio


DJM,

If you had to run a heater during lights off, what would you use or recommend? I bought a autopilot greenhouse controller and my 10" max fan is already plugged into the "humidity" part of the controller so I wouldn't need a duey. But if buying a duey and setting it up to run at at night to heat/dehumidify my room will be more efficient I'll purchase one. I'll just have to unplug the max fan and let the filter run passive during winter, correct? I just transplanted into 3 gals of coco and my room is sitting at 69 degrees with 60% humidity lights on, lights off dropped to 60 degrees.
 

supbrosup

New member
there are too many variables to say if it will be strong enough, but I don't think youll have a problem with those sizes

id strongly advise against having the passive exhaust go into your house...the high levels of humidity and co2 will probably cause mold and an uncomfortable living environment...I suggest you route the passive intake outside, that's really the only right way to do it, without creating collateral damage outside of the room

Makes sense... We have condensation on our windows because of the humidity. I wonder if a cheap dehumidifier on the main floor would help.

How large of a hole would the passive exhaust need to be? Our intakes are 10 and 8 inch fans.

Another problem, we have 3 registers and the largest return duct for our HVAC located in our basement. Blocking these off might cause issues with our furnace or A/C, but if we don't block them off, air will escape the grow space through them.

The actual grow spaces aren't able to be completely sealed because of how we designed them to begin with, so the lung room is where the air will end up. It's technically possible to seal the lung room from the rest of the house, but I would have to cover up the vents and potentially compromise my HVAC system. The furnace would be running a lot since the grow would no longer heat my house, so it's important that we don't do anything to fuck it up.

Maybe giving the air a couple spots to escape to the outside will mitigate the amount that goes into my house without having to cover up the vents. It will still go through the vents, just a bit less.

We plan on going sealed with mini splits after this winter/spring when it starts to get too hot to run this set up. Think half a year is enough to cause problems with mold in our house?
 

DJM

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey! Wonderful source of information here, thanks for your contributions!

Just one question: Your preferred temps (85ish), is that canopy/leaf temp measured with an IR gun? or is it general room temp?

I ask this because I've been measuring my leaf temps, and while the room temp is reading at 86 or 87 (sentinel chhc4 controller), the leaf temp is from 78-82.

I always use a temp gun , and point it at plants when I'm dialing in my controller. For the same reason you stated as room temp can be off in comparison. Once the controller is dialed I don't have to adjust it but I always check canopy Temps under each light every time I go in the room with the lights on , just to be sure
 

DJM

Well-known member
Veteran
Probably not the right spot for this but i'll ask anyways :) ....

What emissivity setting do you guys use on the IR guns when shooting leaf temps?

Not sure, whatever the factory setting on mine is. I've never tried different settings
 

DJM

Well-known member
Veteran
Makes sense... We have condensation on our windows because of the humidity. I wonder if a cheap dehumidifier on the main floor would help.

How large of a hole would the passive exhaust need to be? Our intakes are 10 and 8 inch fans.

Another problem, we have 3 registers and the largest return duct for our HVAC located in our basement. Blocking these off might cause issues with our furnace or A/C, but if we don't block them off, air will escape the grow space through them.

The actual grow spaces aren't able to be completely sealed because of how we designed them to begin with, so the lung room is where the air will end up. It's technically possible to seal the lung room from the rest of the house, but I would have to cover up the vents and potentially compromise my HVAC system. The furnace would be running a lot since the grow would no longer heat my house, so it's important that we don't do anything to fuck it up.

Maybe giving the air a couple spots to escape to the outside will mitigate the amount that goes into my house without having to cover up the vents. It will still go through the vents, just a bit less.

We plan on going sealed with mini splits after this winter/spring when it starts to get too hot to run this set up. Think half a year is enough to cause problems with mold in our house?


it would obviously need to be the size of the fan/ducting you are using to fit

if you aren't able to hermetically seal your growspace, I highly recommend not running an intake..blowing it in a lung room will just fuck that room up...and if its not sealed it will end up everywhere..you can damage a house badly in only half a year depending on the circumstances...this method only works well with a fully sealed and insulated grow with passive exhaust that is routed to the outside of the house..so the house itself is completely sealed off from the insulated growspace..if you cant do that youre better off getting ac and not even messing with it honestly....like I said many times in the thread..this is not an ideal cooling method and not for everyone..it works for me in the winter as ive been running intakes for 6 years and have it very dialed in..every room in every picture in this thread was ran with active intake/passive exhaust...in certain circumstances it makes way more sense and works better than an ac and can cut power by as much as 30-40%, in others youre far better off with an ac..and yours sounds like the second
 

DJM

Well-known member
Veteran
DJM,

If you had to run a heater during lights off, what would you use or recommend? I bought a autopilot greenhouse controller and my 10" max fan is already plugged into the "humidity" part of the controller so I wouldn't need a duey. But if buying a duey and setting it up to run at at night to heat/dehumidify my room will be more efficient I'll purchase one. I'll just have to unplug the max fan and let the filter run passive during winter, correct? I just transplanted into 3 gals of coco and my room is sitting at 69 degrees with 60% humidity lights on, lights off dropped to 60 degrees.

yes youd have to plug in the dehuey and run the filter passively..buying a dehuey is totally dependent on your situation...if I didn't have issues keeping the humidity down at night or keeping it warm and the exhaust wasn't causing any issues its not totally necessary...it does make things easier though, as the dehuey acts as your night time exhaust as well as your heater...and when running it your not really exhausting anything even passively except when the intake kicks on periodically...running active exhaust with lights out as your dehuey can make heating more difficult, as you are essentially pulling out all of the warm air the heater is letting off while pulling cooler air in passively as a result of the negative pressure...putting the heater at the opposite end of the room which the exhaust is on will help that minimize the heat loss..with a quest 155 in my room, it would keep temps as high as 74 while lights are out with single digit temps outside in the winter so its dual purposed as a dehuey and heater...but I have 1 inch insulation boards around every inch of the room...if you can afford a dehuey and have enough power to run it, id recommend one just to make it easier and eliminate the need of a heater in the room as the heaters usually run more amps than the dehuey does..so trying to save power by choosing a heater instead of a dehuey may be counterproductive...but every situation is different and some are better at problem solving and tweaking than others...every pic in this thread minus the last set was ran without any dehuey at all..so you can make it work in your favor, its just more about how easy you want to make it for yourself...if uncertain, id get a dehuey
 

down2grow

Member
Thank you DJM for another detailed response!! I really would like to buy a quest or a Santa fe duey, but those are kind of out of my price range at the moment. Are there any cheaper brands/models that you can recommend? I just need something to get by for this winter, room is a 11x14.

Also, I have a question about the autopilot. I have my day/night humidity set at 65% and when I'm in there during the day the fan kicks on and keeps the humidity in check. But when I just walked into the room today to check my high/low temps and humidity on my thermostat, it read 95% as my high! How is that possible? Doesn't the autopilot kick on my fan at night to control the humidity?

Disregard the autopilot issue, it's plugged into the 120v side of my powerbox and instead of constant power it was set to turn off when the lights turn off.. SMH!!!!!!!!!
 
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supbrosup

New member
it would obviously need to be the size of the fan/ducting you are using to fit

if you aren't able to hermetically seal your growspace, I highly recommend not running an intake..blowing it in a lung room will just fuck that room up...and if its not sealed it will end up everywhere..you can damage a house badly in only half a year depending on the circumstances...this method only works well with a fully sealed and insulated grow with passive exhaust that is routed to the outside of the house..so the house itself is completely sealed off from the insulated growspace..if you cant do that youre better off getting ac and not even messing with it honestly....like I said many times in the thread..this is not an ideal cooling method and not for everyone..it works for me in the winter as ive been running intakes for 6 years and have it very dialed in..every room in every picture in this thread was ran with active intake/passive exhaust...in certain circumstances it makes way more sense and works better than an ac and can cut power by as much as 30-40%, in others youre far better off with an ac..and yours sounds like the second

The return duct might be accessible through the ceiling, could reroute it that way as to not restrict our AC/Furnace... Close vents in basement and seal them off, and install passive exhaust. A little bit of a project but no biggie.

The last place i lived, inside my apartment I remember it being 50-65 humidity, but when its cold as it is in colorado, it causes condensation on windows and stuff...

What other issues might it cause? What would you be most worried about?

If I can keep the humidity lower in the rest of the house, would you feel this set up would be ok?

Once again thanks for keeping this discussion open, your knowledge is much appreciated. The ladies are hitting week two and starting to put on some frost and beginning to form buds.


p.s. Do you use an intake filter?
 

stoney917

i Am SoFaKiNg WeTod DiD
Veteran
thanks man , I agree , I'm still loyal to the forums though

yeah I still got it, I keep 3 moms, ill never let go of that plant ,its my grail...I just pollinated 16 mothers with pollen from a reversed African haze...wish I still had that lvpk you gave me way back in the day to hit up with , that would be a sick combo

ill be running the haze mostly , indoors. but I also have some runs of GMO (chem d x gsc , stardawg x sour tangie and jack flash planned...I personally prefer to run the haze over everything , and I would, but my patients like variety and I take requests on what they would like me to grow..thankfully most prefer sativas

Me to I stick by the forums too , refused to sell my soul to instagram but the time is eventually gonna come when I need an acct...

Nice you keep 3 different phenos still??? Happened a few times that's great n sux at the same time cuz once I kick one you know is a keeper you always end up regretting it... How different are they??? Any males???
Crossing lvpk to it would be a winner ..she goes great with haze..... I still got her... She is a plant I will probably keep forever in tribute to my dead homie who originally brought her out... She was crossed to a Neville male and the results were great there's still a cut in the circle called limewarp....
Long live lvpk !!!rip Hydrosun,!!!


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E

el boyo

so much good information... thank you for taking the time to put it all out there brother... much love
 

EastCoast710

Well-known member
Veteran
Me to I stick by the forums too , refused to sell my soul to instagram but the time is eventually gonna come when I need an acct...

Nice you keep 3 different phenos still??? Happened a few times that's great n sux at the same time cuz once I kick one you know is a keeper you always end up regretting it... How different are they??? Any males???
Crossing lvpk to it would be a winner ..she goes great with haze..... I still got her... She is a plant I will probably keep forever in tribute to my dead homie who originally brought her out... She was crossed to a Neville male and the results were great there's still a cut in the circle called limewarp....
Long live lvpk !!!rip Hydrosun,!!!


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man I think I got a LVPK.. or something of a cross of it or something.. cuz my shit looks IDENTICAL to that.. does the LVPK have variegation shit on the leaves?:thank you:
 

stoney917

i Am SoFaKiNg WeTod DiD
Veteran
man I think I got a LVPK.. or something of a cross of it or something.. cuz my shit looks IDENTICAL to that.. does the LVPK have variegation shit on the leaves?:thank you:

I never had any variegated leaves on lvpk, she grows huge dinner plate sized dark hunter green leaves.... The clone was shared among friends and made her way up and down the east coast many yrs ago... I haven't grown her in a few..., gotta thank dj for mentioning her... I'm gonna get her beefed up so I can do a room of her it's about time
 

down2grow

Member
How are you guys sealing your doors? I've rearranged it twice now and I can only get 98% of it completely sealed. There's still a tiny bit of air coming in from the exhaust and some coming out from the active intake. I used a door without hinges that's pressed against 1/2" plywood that I added to the inside of the door frame. I weather stripped, caulked and spray foamed the crap out of the plywood to create a seal and it's not enough. I'm only vegging and my boy said he can smell MJ right when he walked into my house earlier tonight. If I add a panda/orca door using industrial velco tape on the perimeter (surounding the current door). Will that be enough to contain 2% of smelly air exiting the room? I need help IC!!
 
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