Coco Tree's

[DJM]

I personally only like quest dehueys...I run a dual 155 quest...I never run it lights on ever, only lights out, and it prevents me from having to run a heater during lights out in the winter due to the heat it puts off....the thing with quests is they are more expensive but far more energy efficient in their power to dehumidification ratio

 

[DJM]

waxi - I always put a large drum fan under my dehuey and next to my dehuey, pushing the hot dry air up and out away from it, to not only dissipate and mix evenly in the room but also to not create hot dry spots...if you don't do that any plant to close to the dehuey will get hit with with hot dry air and grow like shit

 

[DJM]

id bet money its a ph issue or imbalanced ratios in your regimin...as I run many og chem hybrids and never have that problem....maybe its because you feed less in veg, so your medium is less stable and as you multifeed it becomes stabilized and unlocks?

funny thing is in coco, the only time ive ever had purple stems is when I fed mag or cal supplements...most people I see running calmag in coco have them...calmag imo , and other mag supplements does more harm than good if they aren't balanced against your base nutrients and is 90% of the reason people cant dial in their coco...I never give any supplements, only base nutrients and a balanced ph...the whole coco needs calmag theory is very untrue and many people just dump it on everything in coco without understanding how it behaves with the ratios in their base nutrients

 

[LyryC]

[YOUTUBEIF]clpgjcqacAU[/YOUTUBEIF]

 

[MikeGreat]

Thank you for the information DJM..
I notice you cut out C02 the last two weeks of flowering. Can you explain the reason why….

id like to clear up all the misunderstandings regarding my use of vpd and high heat/humidity in my rooms

earlier in the thread I said ive ran as high as 80% before all the way up to harvest and never had rot..and that is true..however no where did I say that 80% to harvest was ideal nor that I do that purposely, only that I have before...as mentioned in the previous post, I learn from trial and error..just like my intake cooling system..and with trial and error there is many tweakings and evolutions of an idea..as in that situation there is no one to copy ...this thread is the result of that

in growing plants there is no way that is 100% right for every plant at every stage of growing..any of that tells you differently lacks the experience to realize that

I use a loose template for the environment in my room, and depending on the plant size, flowering time, and other variables I may tweek things here and there...but I ALWAYS stay in the range of correct vpd...anyone that thinks vpd is just running high heat and humidity all the time should really do some more reading before they post here...here is what the schedule of an average run looks for me environmentally

ALL veg - 85 f / 75% rh (day) ; 80f/ 70% (night) ; 800 ppms co2

week 1 - 85f/ 75% rh (day) ; 80 f/ 70% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 2 - 85f/ 75% rh (day) ; 80 f/ 70% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 3 - 85f/ 75% rh (day) ; 80 f/ 70% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 4 - 82f/ 72% rh (day) ; 78f/ 68% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 5 - 80f/ 70%rh (day) ; 75f / 65% (night) ; 1000 ppms c02

week 6 - 80f /70%rh (day) ; 75f / 65% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 7 - 78f/68% rh (day) ; 72 f/ 62% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 8 - 75f/ 65%rh (day) ; 70f/ 60% (night) ; 0 ppms co2

week 9 - 70f /60% rh (day) ; 60f/ 50% (night) ; 0 ppm c02



That is the average range in my room for a 63 day strain..If its a 56 or 70 day strain I just extend or shorten the temps/rh for the stretch period...The dropping of temps and rh is not to prevent rot as that has truly never been an issue in my rooms..but its to create denser flowers. sometimes it can bring more color and fragrance as well..ive essentially started running my rooms to mirror the natural transition of the seasons where its hot and humid in the summer to benefit vegetative growth but then cools down and dries out to benefit the ripening phase of the last few weeks of flower

now with that said, this is what I consider ideal temps/rh...but that's not to say that anything outside of that will harm the plant..people need to understand just how resilient this plant is..for example , I'm currently growing in greenhouses outdoors now and my night time humidity is always in the 80s due to the humidity of the NE. and has been the entire flowering period..im harvesting as we speak and rot is non existent..because I have an obsene amount of air movement..so although I wouldn't advise someone that 80% rh is ideal to intentionally run, I wouldn't say its the devil either like some people here have..when you understand the variable of high RH and know how to balance the other variable such as wind along side it,to its benefit, then it demystifies the fear of high RH in a grow room

hopefully that can put this beaten dead horse to sleep

 

[DJM]

Thank you for the information DJM..
I notice you cut out C02 the last two weeks of flowering. Can you explain the reason why….

the flowers will not finish ripening properly if not

 

[Mudraya]

id bet money its a ph issue or imbalanced ratios in your regimin...as I run many og chem hybrids and never have that problem....maybe its because you feed less in veg, so your medium is less stable and as you multifeed it becomes stabilized and unlocks?

funny thing is in coco, the only time ive ever had purple stems is when I fed mag or cal supplements...most people I see running calmag in coco have them...calmag imo , and other mag supplements does more harm than good if they aren't balanced against your base nutrients and is 90% of the reason people cant dial in their coco...I never give any supplements, only base nutrients and a balanced ph...the whole coco needs calmag theory is very untrue and many people just dump it on everything in coco without understanding how it behaves with the ratios in their base nutrients

I totally agree. Back in the day I used calmag religiously because all the "smart" growers were and I had purple/red stems until after the stretch. Ever since I stopped I haven't seen them.

 

[RedBeardy5]

That's funny because my holy grail og has purple stems but the gg4 in the same room has green stems. It seems like the og is just finicky.

 

[supbrosup]

A new problem has arose: We have condensation build up on our intake duct. So far, we've made sure all wires are out of reach of the dripping condensation. How big of an issue is this going to be? In one room, it's above the plants and would drip on the plants.

Have you had this issue? Any solution?

 

[supbrosup]

I've seen this recommended twice now, thoughts?

"Maybe put a Tee on the fresh air intake duct and put an adjustable damper on it so you can mix warmer inside air with your cold outside air. Could even skip that and just put slits in the duct between outside and your room. Control the airflow with a inline fan on a thermostat. That way you don't even need a lung room. Or if you have a source of free water, use a small watercooled AC. No air in or out of your house that way.

Good luck!"

It would definitely be much easier for me to put slits in the short run of ducting prior to my fan, so it sucks in warm and cold air instead of just cold. I imagine that would at least keep the condensation off the fan and minimize it?

 

[t99]

How about using insulated duct
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flo...gclid=CLfxj7-tttACFRBLDQodTaQNAw&gclsrc=aw.ds
Unless I'm misunderstanding the issue

 

[supbrosup]

It's possible insulating it would help, but I've also read for some people it just puts the problems further down in the run of ducting, or the insulation will just collect the condensation and cause it to mold or just fall apart.

 

[mango420]

Insulated ducting will fix the problem. Had the same issue in my flow room.

 

[watts]

yup insulated ducting.

 

[JimmyToucan]

Thanks for the thread DJM. Really amazing work you're doing and even better to take the time out of your busy schedule to show everyone how things can be done when you step away from the usual forum paradigms and think outside the box. My first post in this thread bit second time readinit and I'm sure I'll read it again (and take better notes, ha). Thanks for showing us the way.

Oh...and that SR71 is one sexy lady. Can't wait to make my move NE and get above board. All this great info will surely help. Good vibes from WNY. Peace.

 

[phazer]

Hey djm good to see u back here posting. it is much appreciated as always. i have to thank u for my smooth transition from soil to coco, and have been learning from ur posts ever since. glad things in maine are going well for ya. Gov hickenlooper just added 16 mil to the budget to bust growers. so its a good thing u didnt stick around. i didnt think they could crack down much harder but i guess i was wrong

 

[DJM]

It's possible insulating it would help, but I've also read for some people it just puts the problems further down in the run of ducting, or the insulation will just collect the condensation and cause it to mold or just fall apart.

I'd personally advice against insulated duct for that exact reason. Atleast the standard insulated ducting that just has the insulation loose inside . It'll be soaking wet after awhile. I've seen some types that have thinner, double walled insulation where the insulation isn't exposed like the one previously mentioned. Those would work better. Another option is spraying foam insulation inside the ducting , but that only works well on rigid ducting. I found that the ducting really only bEads when air isn't flowing around it strong enough. As when there is air passing over it beads can't really form. I don't use insulated ducting, but I have strong drum fans on the floor between rows, aiming up at the ducting. I do this to circulate the air under canopy and over, to help heat ,rh and co2 stay consistent through out the room. One of the side benefits is the lack of condensation. I don't have an issue with it as all honestly, a drop may fall here and there once in a while but I Dont worry about it. Where ever it lands will dry the second a fan blows it's way. I can't stress the need for strong , even air movement all over the room . It can prevent numerous issues just by doing that one thing . Hope that helps

 

[onavelzy]

determining if the media is most enough

determining if the media is most enough

Hi Don, I'm reading through again. Jeeze, this thread is like a grad school course in cannabis horticulture. i get more each time i come here. I come up with a ton of questions too as I am as inexperienced as can be.

when you mention that you water as often as needed to keep the medium moist, how to you determine that? water an amount that leads to a certain amount of run off? or are there moisture sensors you can put in the medium to make that call. for example, early in the flower phase or even pre-veg phase, you don't feed as often as you do when you know your roots are pot bound. how do you know how soon is too soon or how late is too late, in terms of drying out?

i'm probably going to come back later with a question or two + about your irrigation and dosing system (dositrons, etc) but i want to finish going through the thread again to see what i can figure out.

thanks again for the thorough explanations of so many areas of culture. it's not falling on deaf ears or blind minds, i promise.

 

[HizzyB]

Thanks for taking the time out of your day to create/maintain this thread
Very informative

 

[supbrosup]

Our fans for our filters just got here, they will be on the ground filtering the air in the room. Gonna add some air flow by pointing those at the ducting. Add more oscillating fans as well to ensure there's no issues when condensation does end up dripping. It's not like it will be constant, and if there's enough air flow it will keep the bud from rotting?

How about the fan itself? We have a maxfan pro series 8in and hyperfan 10in. Will the condensation on it also be inside of it? Will it cause the fan to die or short on us? Fire hazards?

Our humidity does jump around, between 50-70 it seems. but usually just up and down 5-10. I'm guessing from when the intake vent kicks on. Any issues with this? Or will air flow also be the answer here?