Coco Tree's

[supbrosup]

I left that post mostly open ended, aside from a couple questions. Really looking for any advice regarding this set up.

Currently just exhausting heat out of the basement windows and the negative pressure caused the water heater and furnace to go out. Had to cut a bunch of intakes into the basement and now the appliances finally stay on but the water heater vent back drafts carbon monoxide into the house due to the negative pressure. Kinda sucks to redesign but its that or drop money on a new water heater that has an active vent. OR some how get rid of exhausts/negative pressure. Which either requires the methods in this thread or me dropping some dough on minisplits and/or water heaters. Trying to weigh out my options here.

Would it be safe to rock out a harvest with the water heater doing this? im betting the carbon monoxide is getting exhausted out of these powerful ass exhaust vents in my grow as it is.

 

[DJM]

I would really like to adapt these methods as my temps are not great, and the negative pressure of my exhaust is messing with my hot water heater. My rooms are not sealed as they have cheap sliding doors so we can roll beds out of the rooms. There is a "lung room" between the two rooms in the basement. The lung room is also where the entryway to the basement is. If I sealed this lung room from the rest of the house and added carbon filters recirculating in the lung room, would this control smell? The active intakes bringing cold air from my windows would be forcing air out of the flower rooms due to positive pressure, into the lung room, where it would be scrubbed before going anywhere else...

id go this first route for the passive exhaust...and depending on the time of the year you can or cant intake while lights are off...its better to just not intake at all lights out...I either use a dehuey for lights out or have a separate active exhaust with carbon filter that's on a timer to run while lights are out...a dehuey is better...as if you actively exhaust youll also be pulling in air as a result, more than likely through the intake if the room is properly sealed....ive never had to use a lung room really...I just run a duct from main room through carbon filter and back outside....there are many different ways to do it if for whatever reason you cant cool the room otherwise or want to keep the power bill down...active intakes work better than acs in some situations and far worse in others..its really dependent on the situation , so itll take some tweaking to see the benefits of it

 

[DJM]

Enzymes were mentioned by DJM as being used during each feeding. Yet this is a sterile system. Is that a contradiction?

I was using "z7" by flying skull, hygrozyme for many years before that, but I don't use either anymore and prefer to go full sterile instead due to being on well water

 

[DJM]

I left that post mostly open ended, aside from a couple questions. Really looking for any advice regarding this set up.

Currently just exhausting heat out of the basement windows and the negative pressure caused the water heater and furnace to go out. Had to cut a bunch of intakes into the basement and now the appliances finally stay on but the water heater vent back drafts carbon monoxide into the house due to the negative pressure. Kinda sucks to redesign but its that or drop money on a new water heater that has an active vent. OR some how get rid of exhausts/negative pressure. Which either requires the methods in this thread or me dropping some dough on minisplits and/or water heaters. Trying to weigh out my options here. .....

Would it be safe to rock out a harvest with the water heater doing this? im betting the carbon monoxide is getting exhausted out of these powerful ass exhaust vents in my grow as it is.

if the intake is fucking with appliances like that , id get an ac honestly....but If you are just using an active intake and passive exhaust the pressure should be neutral and not negative...id try to make the exhaust passive and if not get an ac, and leave the water heater alone

 

[DJM]

in the earlier stages of veg a wet/dry cycle is mentioned to promote root growth. if the coco is drying out how is there not salt buildup?

because during veg I feed by hand and give copious amounts of run off...once the plants need to be fed more than once a day to stay wet, then I hook drippers up and limit my run off to a few drops

 

[DJM]

does anyone know the benefits of having lower night time temp & humidity, i thought keeping them close together causes shorter internodal distance

they don't need to be the same level day and night, in fact I think that's a bad thing for many reasons...you just don't want them more than 10 degrees lower during night...I like to keep them within that range..having too high of temps and humidity at night will cause flowers to run looser than if you drop it..atleast with me as I run my rooms hot

 

[DJM]

Well man... Big thanks for this thread.
I have question about bleach do you apply bleach into nute rez? Or make it solo in tap water?

I think my plants are way more happy when I found this thread.

8dayz at 1/4 gal

when I use it, which is only on well water, I add it directly to the rez before adding anything...tap water has enough chlorine in it to never worry about it, but my well water has tested positive for bacteria, as most do

 

[supbrosup]

id go this first route for the passive exhaust...and depending on the time of the year you can or cant intake while lights are off...its better to just not intake at all lights out...I either use a dehuey for lights out or have a separate active exhaust with carbon filter that's on a timer to run while lights are out...a dehuey is better...as if you actively exhaust youll also be pulling in air as a result, more than likely through the intake if the room is properly sealed....ive never had to use a lung room really...I just run a duct from main room through carbon filter and back outside....there are many different ways to do it if for whatever reason you cant cool the room otherwise or want to keep the power bill down...active intakes work better than acs in some situations and far worse in others..its really dependent on the situation , so itll take some tweaking to see the benefits of it

We've switched it around to your active intake set up, our smaller room is at 77 and 40 rh during lights on, 73 degrees and it jumps up to around 60 rh at lights out. This is in veg, is it gonna change quite a bit in flower? solved the temperature issue and the water heater issue but now the RH is concerning. Do you have lights on during the day or at night for this set up? The air is colder at night so it would cool faster, but the fan might cycle more.

 

[DJM]

I always run my lights at night. not only to cool more efficiently but power is also far cheaper during the non peak hours of the night..during the winter sometimes fan will only cycle on 1 minute every 4 minutes or so...it makes no difference in terms of cooling, the only difference long intervals between cycles will do is raise RH, which from the looks of your lights on RH levels, that would be a good thing...for 77f id want it around 65-67 ish rh...so it would be beneficial to have shorter cycles on the intake to boost RH

during lights on you never have to run a dehuey , more often than not I have to run a fogger lights on as the bulbs dry out the room considerably...during lights off however, when not intaking, you need some sort of dehumidification in the room...right now at 73 and 60 rh you are perfect, but once plants are flowering the RH will be much higher depending on the size of plants and their relation to the size of the room

like mentioned earlier, intakes are not for everyone, it takes tweaking to dial in the variables to make it work in different situations..but once you figure it out, its very easy and infact not much harder than dialing in a room with an ac...infact I find it much easier to dial in rooms with intakes vs a mini split unless you have a trigger cord hooked to a controller

 

[Twisted pleasur]

DJM what have you found be the best day/night temp/humidity in your experience?

Congrats BTW...
Glad the move went well and your settled in and keeping busy with allot of projects going.
Looking good.

 

[DJM]

twisted - I posted my temp /rh schedule a few pages back..these are the parameters I prefer...some say I run my rooms too hot, but what people don't realize is high heat during a colas formation is one of the biggest factors in how big the flowers get...a flower formed in a 85 degree room will always be larger than one in the mid to high 70s...always...once I get the flower size and formation I want , only then do I drop temps to facilitate the ripening phase

ALL veg - 85 f / 75% rh (day) ; 80f/ 70% (night) ; 800 ppms co2

week 1 - 85f/ 75% rh (day) ; 80 f/ 70% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 2 - 85f/ 75% rh (day) ; 80 f/ 70% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 3 - 85f/ 75% rh (day) ; 80 f/ 70% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 4 - 82f/ 72% rh (day) ; 78f/ 68% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 5 - 80f/ 70%rh (day) ; 75f / 65% (night) ; 1000 ppms c02

week 6 - 80f /70%rh (day) ; 75f / 65% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 7 - 78f/68% rh (day) ; 72 f/ 62% (night) ; 1000 ppms co2

week 8 - 75f/ 65%rh (day) ; 70f/ 60% (night) ; 0 ppms co2

week 9 - 70f /60% rh (day) ; 60f/ 50% (night) ; 0 ppm c02


and thanks for the kind words

 

[supbrosup]

I always run my lights at night. not only to cool more efficiently but power is also far cheaper during the non peak hours of the night..during the winter sometimes fan will only cycle on 1 minute every 4 minutes or so...it makes no difference in terms of cooling, the only difference long intervals between cycles will do is raise RH, which from the looks of your lights on RH levels, that would be a good thing...for 77f id want it around 65-67 ish rh...so it would be beneficial to have shorter cycles on the intake to boost RH

during lights on you never have to run a dehuey , more often than not I have to run a fogger lights on as the bulbs dry out the room considerably...during lights off however, when not intaking, you need some sort of dehumidification in the room...right now at 73 and 60 rh you are perfect, but once plants are flowering the RH will be much higher depending on the size of plants and their relation to the size of the room

like mentioned earlier, intakes are not for everyone, it takes tweaking to dial in the variables to make it work in different situations..but once you figure it out, its very easy and infact not much harder than dialing in a room with an ac...infact I find it much easier to dial in rooms with intakes vs a mini split unless you have a trigger cord hooked to a controller

Will the difference between my day and night humidity cause PM? I mean, outdoors I know at night and early morning you're gonna have higher humidity. I would really like to dial in the VPD, and perhaps with flowering plants and vegetation mass taking up 60-80% of the room, we will see the increase we want during lights on. It's just a matter of handling lights off with basically no funds remaining for a dehuey.

I saw a backdraft damper at the grow warehouse, perhaps it can be placed on the intake to open when the intake comes on and close when its off, then run a little more exhaust at lights out.

I really wanted to run one room at night and one room during the day...I guess most days it'd be cold enough to have shorter cycles in our large room, with it never really getting above 65* in winter. Today is supposed to be above 60* so I'm gonna work on dialing in the lights on for this room.

I know when temps drop RH rises, so should we have the temp drop at lights out be smaller?

If you're still using insta, I tried following you, @cannachronicles

By the way, this thread pretty much saved our asses. Our hot water and furnace would not stay on, now they do, AND our temps are a thousand times better. So, I believe if your goal was to help people by posting your thread, you've definitely succeeded, thank you so much.

 

[supbrosup]

Oh, and for shorter cycles, would I want to put the intake on full blast? Or do you control the fan speed down?

 

[Hookah79]

You gotta have dampers if you don't want air/co2 getting out.You can buy some yourself or buy a fan with a built-in damper like a vortex.

You can build a box and put your damper and fan in.

 

[EastCoast710]

dude fucking amazing work.. made me rethink my entire setup.. going to be looking for those reflectors.. using those for winter grows.. and use my air cooled hoods in the summer ..

but man I need to start trellising... how big of a veg room do you use to load that up.. I'm thinkin ill just use 1 1000w on a light mover to fill my 6000w flower room. id use more than 1000w for veg. but id need to have an electrician come over to wire up another breaker and shit if I wana run more than 7000w in lights

 

[supbrosup]

There's also one more option for lights out, add another exhaust, but have the active intake turn off at lights out. Maybe the slow passive draw from the intake won't make it too cold in the room while dropping humidity enough. Hopefully...

 

[GoneGrowing]

Fantastic work DJM. I've been lurking your thread before. But it just got my attention again. I've just been a 600w single setup guy, but might soon have a location that can support venturing into bigger projects. I'm thinking your setup kinda, 8 X 1000W flower room + 2000W veg room setup wih cooco, drippers as automated as possible for a complete newb regarding automated watering. So I might have to send a few questions you way. I really think you have your shit on ockdown with a brilliant approach to environment-approach, use of ferts and so on..So keep ip the good work

 

[AltarNation]

11 day roots

View Image

rooted fan leaf

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That's amazing.

 

[supbrosup]

thoughts on this dehuey? https://www.sylvane.com/dri-eaz-dri..._cid=cse_gpl&gclid=CJ2u-bbYqdACFQuraQodlbsAiw

 

[bamboogardner]

I have an almost identical looking model, the Ideal Air CG2. Works great but with this caveat, which I think would apply to any large dehuey. They add about 10 degrees rise in temp to the room. So if your AC cannot handle it you will have a problem. Tried adding exhaust ducting to the exhaust even though the manual recommended not to do so. The unit quit working at the capacity it was advertised to do so had to live with the AC working harder after I removed the ducting. Not a prob this time of year but had to add another AC to the room for the summer time. Just a FYI and have fun.