Can the genetics be saved from plant with fusarium/pythium/stem canker?

[eastcoastjoe]

Mr Mustard is something special,,this Is starting to sound disrespectful bro,,,I play the fool and deserve to take shit but he doesn't,,Lighten the tone bro

When it comes to flavour I personally like to grow at low low temps towards the end ,,I only go high temp in veg,,,Yes plants grow better at high temps but that's not how you get the best flavour and colours

I've had pythium before but not fusarium,,it seemed to pretty much vanish in rockwool and using zyme with a periodic h202 flash,,,il be using hydrochloric acid in future tho,,

You didn’t tag me but I’m quite sure your talking to me. No one is being disrespectful. I’m giving my opinion on environmental parameters and mold since this thread seems to pertain to disease yeah ? No one is talking about flavor or terpenes.

My point is simple. Low temps alone aren’t going to do it. Hang dry your crop at 60F and quickly you see your going to have mold issues if what isn’t controlled ? Relative humidity. Temperature has nothing to do with it. So why tell people low temps are the key when that simply isn’t true. Moisture control man. It’s not that hard. Gonna leave this alone now.

 

[englishrick]

I appreciate the way you answered this bro,,this is feeling better,,

Honestly,,Mr Mustard is a science guy,,higher level than people realise,,he deserves his props,,

Anyways,,,moving on

Some people work in labs and some work in dirty houses,,,but we all need to produce and come home with a pay check,, advice for a lab grow is different to advice for a home grower,,sometimes we just need the weed to be good enough to smoke or sell

Yeh I agree,,moisture is the main factor!,,but alot of people see a seasonal pithium issue and it seems to flare up when shit gets warmer,,,it might well be in the incubation stage at low temps and the increased temps cause fruiting of fungus, but atleast with just cold temps you can get through your grow,,preventing an outbreak might be the difference between failure and success

Sometimes isolation is a big factor too,,,I've found zyme can keep roots looking healthy , it's the fuzz on dead matter that concerns me the most,,,that's why I suggested hydrochloride acid,,clones can be dunked and solve the issue of transmission to clones,,this is a big deal when you want to save them expensive names you paid a clone seller for,,the threads title is can genetics be saved and this is my solution,,clone and dunk,,that seems to be the treatment to do

 

[englishrick]

H202 prevents stem canker not cause it. From MyNameStitch guide -

Stem Canker (Stem Rot)

Stem cankers are what the name is, they form on stems from a fungus similar to white and yellow leaf spot. Weather can affect the way stem cankers can live; wet humid weather is what makes this fungus thrive. Canker fungus is caused and entered the same white and leaf spot fungus enters the plants, it enters through an open cut, wound, pruned wound, or pest infestation that has caused damage by eating leaves or chewing on the stem’s or stalks and can be transferred through rain. It can also get in through susceptible plants that have been wounded through environmental factors like animal attacks, pruning, LST (Low Stress Training), and using cutting utensils that are not sanitary that may have fungus or bacteria on them. Damage to the plant occurs in the form of a yellowish-brown discoloration on the lower portion of the stalk. Later, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the plant dries out and dies.They form mostly on the stems, but severe cases spotting starts to form on the leaves from internal tissue being cut of nutrients and water. In between nodes is where stem cankers start to form, and move up the plant, around the 3rd, 4th and 5th node is where it will mainly affects the plants. Stems will have brown lesions; eventually have a dark reddish-brown sunken canker in the stem. Sometimes if severe the wound may reopen and appear split in the middle of the area of the wound on the stem and can also create a buldge. The lesions can extend up the plant over 3 or 4 nodes, once this happens the plant starts to wilt from vascular uptake being cut. This gets confused with root rot when the plant starts to wilt, and leaves turn yellowish brown and or spots, because the stem canker does not show itself yet once this starts to happen. Once the stem canker has been observed and if not treated, the leaves will start to wilt with yellow, white and brown spots, similar to white and yellow leaf spot. When plants are affected by this, the plant is more susceptible to more fungus and viral infections, from air borne spores.

The garbage I have been sent. Stem canker, not H202 exposure -

View attachment 18894058

View attachment 18894059

Stem canker is caused by fusarium, pythium, and bacteriia.

I'm just saying I can make a stem look identical to the pictures you have shown by using h2o2,,it's an oxidation thing I believe,,,that's not to say your clones don't have a form of pythium,,I'm just saying when I had pythium with zyme I could produce clones without that stem discolouration,,but the h202 will always make it look like that

 

[Loc Dog]

Is the science paper I sent wrong?,,or have I read it incorrectly?

Fungal Infections Following Boston Type 1 Keratoprosthesis Implantation: Literature Review and In Vitro Antifungal Activity of Hypochlorous Acid

To review the current literature describing cases of fungal keratitis and endophthalmitis following Boston Keratoprosthesis (KPro) implantation, and characterize the antifungal activity of 0.01% hypochlorous acid against medically relevant fungi.A literature ...

www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Quote from paper
'In our study, hypochlorous acid, 0.01%, effectively eliminated all molds (including Fusarium and Aspergillus) and yeasts (Candida spp.) tested, with fungicidal activity observed in as little as 15 seconds."

Have been researching nd have seen nowhere that it cures infected plants. Looks great for treating hydro systems and possibly soil which are usually abandoned for years after an outdoor outbreak. Also might work for powdery mildew and other surface molds, but not vascular infections

Fusarium treatment for weed​

Fusarium fungus is an insidious pathogen that affects a wide range of economic crops along with cannabis. The threat posed by fusarium has led to intense research into a means to treat this dangerous disease. Unfortunately, the search is ongoing, andthere’s no surefire way to treat fusarium in cannabis.

While it’s possible to slow down the progress of the infection, it’s impossible to halt entirely. The fact that fusarium in cannabis usually occurs during vegetative growth means slowing down its advance is a mostly futile endeavor.

You might be able to keep your plants limping along on life-support by using a homemade fungicide for plants or by increasing pH levels beyond 9.0. While these might slow down further infection, the damage is done, and the plants’ fate is sealed.

The best way to deal with fusarium in cannabis is to avoid it altogether. If you identify fusarium in one or more plants, the best “treatment” is to remove and destroy the plants immediately. If you’re lucky, the fusarium fungus won’t have spread to your remaining crop.

How to get rid of fusarium in your cannabis plants​

Burn it with fire! We wish we were joking, but unfortunately, there’s no way to get rid of fusarium in cannabis without killing the plants. We strongly recommend incinerating any infected plants and avoiding reusing the substrate.

Composting infected plants is also not advised, as the fusarium spores survive in the soil for years if left unsterilized. The same goes for the soil where the infected plants were growing. If your plot has been contaminated with fusarium, it’s recommended to rotate out and avoid planting cannabis in the same location for a couple of years.

The cover crop hairy vetch shows promise, reducing the incidence of fusarium in economic crops when planted alongside them.

It’s possible to kill off the fusarium spores by sterilizing the soil in a kiln or using solar sterilization. This second method requires covering the affected soil using black polyethylene plastic and allowing the heat from the sun to sterilize the soil.

As previously mentioned, preventative measures are the best way to deal with fusarium in cannabis. Read on and find out how to avoid this dreaded fungus entirely.

 

[englishrick]

But with you asking how to save genetics,,clone, dunk,,dunk again,,seems like hydrochloric acid is the best dunk atm?,,h202 ain't really strong enough

so when you get a cut from a supplier , dunk it immediately,,,hydrochloric acid?,,then pithoff?,,grow it for a bit in isolation,,clone it ,,dunk it,,throw away the original,,they you should be good to go,,,use rockwool only,,try to use ozone generators and bipolar ionisation,,you should be able to save it,, its probably a good thing to do as a standard practice,,,one of my favourite jobs is gassing the fuk out of a room with ozone between grows,,or even just in a small tent when i want to kill shit,,,just don't go in an breath that air without exhausting it first or you get co3 poisoning,,

You know what my big issue is atm and just to let you know I'm doing cuts as we speak,,,I keep farting in this grow room and it stinks for ages,,can't run away from it,,I think I need better circulation , intake and outake,,,I bet bipolar ionisation would stop me gagging every 45 mins,,that's my world atm, don't stress about shit suppliers bro, just take the genetics and clean it up , that's what I'd do , but I'm an addict to the names,,everyone is shit unless they are doing multiplication invitro,,

I'm about to start doing all cloning through invtro multiplication soon,,It's the only way

 

[Loc Dog]

But with you asking how to save genetics,,clone, dunk,,dunk again,,seems like hydrochloric acid is the best dunk atm?,,h202 ain't really strong enough

so when you get a cut from a supplier , dunk it immediately,,,hydrochloric acid?,,then pithoff?,,grow it for a bit in isolation,,clone it ,,dunk it,,throw away the original,,they you should be good to go,,,use rockwool only,,try to use ozone generators and bipolar ionisation,,you should be able to save it,, its probably a good thing to do as a standard practice,,,one of my favourite jobs is gassing the fuk out of a room with ozone between grows,,or even just in a small tent when i want to kill shit,,,just don't go in an breath that air without exhausting it first or you get co3 poisoning,,

You know what my big issue is atm and just to let you know I'm doing 450 cuts as we speak,,,I keep farting in this grow room and it stinks for ages,,can't run away from it,,I think I need better circulation , intake and outake,,,I bet bipolar ionisation would stop me gagging every 45 mins,,that's my world atm, don't stress about shit suppliers bro, just take the genetics and clean it up , that's what I'd do , but I'm an addict to the names,,everyone is shit unless they are doing multiplication invitro,,

I'm about to start doing all cloning through invtro multiplication soon,,It's the only way

I am thinking better off with cuts. Most sell clones, and dirty procedures are how they get infected. That product would be great for sanitizing large scale clone feeding. Most I ever clone is 20, and really only need 6 to 8 for 1 tent.

Both recent sellers swore they guaranteed healthy plants, but trying to salvage since I doubt getting money back, and am poor, so losing another $400 is rough on me. Took off very tops, soaked bases in 1 part H202 and 5 parts water. Used actinovate and great white in cloning solution, and added lalstop k61. Hoping for best but a realist, and doubt any will survive.

 

[mean mr.mustard]

So why tell people low temps are the key when that simply isn’t true.

I'm not advocating for low temperature.

I simply said 70 isn't horrible.

Everything else came out of your head.

I've never been called a rookie before but it was certainly entertaining.

Don't think that I have never met a grower that can't be wrong...

 

[eastcoastjoe]

Don't think that I have never met a grower that can't be wrong...

But you keep trying to argue something I said is wrong so you can appear right…..the irony.
Funny thing is, I was never even talking to you in the first place. Why you start this conversation with me and keep tagging me ?

 

[mean mr.mustard]

But you keep trying to argue something I said is wrong so you can appear right…..the irony.
Funny thing is, I was never even talking to you in the first place. Why you start this conversation with me and keep tagging me ?

Because you seem to continually be misunderstanding my point.

It's simple: there's nothing "horrible" about 70.

My point is not that 70 is ideal.

My point is not that temperature is the only mitigation for mold.

My point is 68 degrees is not "horrible".

You seem to be hearing things that I have not said... I'm not arguing but am restating the point you have been misconstruing.

 

[englishrick]

I think someone's got there wires crossed here,,,I'd have to re read this thread to understand what's happening,,,Mr Mustard has never been the type to argue and his pretty much always super accurate,,,I bet if we re-read the issue will solve itself,,you both seem to be right,,,weird,,I'd have to check tho

Calling Mr Mustard a shit grower would be shitting on his years and years of me an him talking and him looking like a master to me,,,if it wasn't a lil funny that is,,,,,

your a shit growr Mr Mustard,,,gotta admit its kinda comical

Anyways,,

Initation should always be part of a growers procedure when taking in clones,,,Initation is the first step in all tissue culture, its basically just sterilizing but not many people do it

Like I said bro,,all clone suppliers should be doing multiplication invitro,,but unfortunately they don't,,,its up to us to do the work if we want the names

I don't count on any clone suppliers being clean,,this is because without invitro multiplication all mother rooms will get dirty eventually,,you gota be in a space station to be clean forever, or basically be flowering out your mother's straight after taking cuts ,,that's the best practice for a home grower to stay clean,,

Try zyme to get the roots healthy,,the zyme and a good root stimulator will make the roots grow through pythium,, then you can clone and dunk like I've said above,,the zyme will keep shit alive won't kill it tho

 

[eastcoastjoe]

Because you seem to continually be misunderstanding my point.

It's simple: there's nothing "horrible" about 70.

My point is not that 70 is ideal.

My point is not that temperature is the only mitigation for mold.

My point is 68 degrees is not "horrible".

You seem to be hearing things that I have not said... I'm not arguing but am restating the point you have been misconstruing.

Listen man, I don’t have to understand your point. I didn’t ask you for your opinion. You don’t need to restate anything to me because I strongly disagree with what your saying.
I was talking to the guy who started this thread. You tagged me and started this back and forth so who is the one trying to make themselves seem right here ?

 

[mean mr.mustard]

Listen man, I don’t have to understand your point. I didn’t ask you for your opinion. You don’t need to restate anything to me because I strongly disagree with what your saying.
I was talking to the guy who started this thread. You tagged me and started this back and forth so who is the one trying to make themselves seem right here ?

You certainly don't understand my point.

You don't have to be upset by that, nor do you have to understand it.

I'm simply not one to let people mislead others.

 

[eastcoastjoe]

You certainly don't understand my point.

You don't have to be upset by that, nor do you have to understand it.

I'm simply not one to let people mislead others.

Mislead ? I guess you want to argue so let’s do it. Dude, the points your making are wack. All of them. Anyone who is a good grower knows under 70 is only optimal at the end. That’s it.
In relation to disease control and the conversation here, it’s stupid to grow plants under 70 degrees. Hell, you don’t even do it. Your just being a troll

 

[eastcoastjoe]

Btw dude, idk why people in this thread are acting like your the godfather of growing. Your plant you showed is over fed. Back off the N. That’s why your leaves are twisting

 

[mean mr.mustard]

Mislead ? I guess you want to argue so let’s do it. Dude, the points your making are wack. All of them. Anyone who is a good grower knows under 70 is only optimal at the end. That’s it.
In relation to disease control and the conversation here, it’s stupid to grow plants under 70 degrees. Hell, you don’t even do it. Your just being a troll

Do you feel better?

Plants grow fine at 70 degrees.

You can't change that.

Argue away.

 

[eastcoastjoe]

Because you seem to continually be misunderstanding my point.

It's simple: there's nothing "horrible" about 70.

My point is not that 70 is ideal.

My point is not that temperature is the only mitigation for mold.

My point is 68 degrees is not "horrible".

You seem to be hearing things that I have not said... I'm not arguing but am restating the point you have been misconstruing.

Nothing is good about under 70 besides the final days. Nothing at all.

Do you feel better?

Plants grow fine at 70 degrees.

You can't change that.

Argue away.

One dimensional argument. They grow way better at 80. Shitty even compared to 70. What about LED lights, grow at 70 ?

 

[mean mr.mustard]

Btw dude, idk why people in this thread are acting like your the godfather of growing. Your plant you showed is over fed. Back off the N. That’s why your leaves are twisting

A few of these people have been around long enough to know what I know and have seen what I can do.

I don't know why you're committed to me being completely inept, but I think it's because you want to discredit me in the hopes of being the only oracle available.

 

[mean mr.mustard]

Plants do grow faster at 80.

I have never argued that they don't.

Plants grow fine at 70.

Get over it.

 

[eastcoastjoe]

A few of these people have been around long enough to know what I know and have seen what I can do.

I don't know why you're committed to me being completely inept, but I think it's because you want to discredit me in the hopes of being the only oracle available.

This isn’t my first day either my man but Life has taught me this. Just because you been doing something a long time, don’t mean you been doing it right.
Earlier you mentioned “the science” ? Let’s hear the science. Im listening

 

[eastcoastjoe]

Plants grow fine at 70.

Even with LED lights ?